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Thread: Any car audio problem, I can help. (Part 2)

  1. #1
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    Default Any car audio problem, I can help. (Part 2)

    ok boys , this is a followup to the original thread i had made. tht thread has become in a real mess lately with ppl coming and just shooting watever they like...... i plan to make this new thread so tht i can make it better for the ppl who really need help... somthing which i would like to mend is...

    1) i will reply to the ppl along with their questions. B4 , i used to just write "nick@ and the answer. this made me completely forget the followup. so now , every answer will be given with the question.

    2) any followup will HAVE to include my original reply and then the new question. this is to make sure u guys are actually reading my reply and not just shooting questions for the heck of it. (geforce this includes u! as well )

    3) plz keep this new thread alive so i can help many others.

    thanks.

    Enerlevel
    Nikon D3S , Nikon D800 , 24-70 f2.8 + 70-200 F2.8 VR II + 50 1.8D + SB-900 + SB600
    I am ready for any situation!!

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    hi enerlevel! i m new to pakwheels so dont know about ur previous threads. . .i need advise on my car deck. . . i have SE SALOON 2004 model and just wanna know what i can do with it so that it can run mp3 cds or a USB port can be connected to it. waiting for ur advise thanks

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    hi enerlevel me too new at pakwheels i have pair of speakers named SIVI LINE max out 900w i have never heard abt this brand before i googled alot abt this but found nothing can u plz tell something abt these speakers

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    i have a AUDIO BANK amp 4 channel..
    i guess 800 w.
    the prob is i got it off for some months..
    wen i installed it back..it wasnt working.
    took to electrician n he said IC is gone n will cost about 700 to repair.
    i wana knw how the amp got this BIG prob by just lying on the room..
    plus is he chargin rite dough?
    i mean 700 is to much i guess.
    i havnt gave him amp for repairs.
    thought to have some good opnions cuz its better to get new amp than to get it fixed?
    wat say?
    REAL men drive manual cars!

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    Sample System Designs
    From Basic Upgrades to Full Competition


    Basic upgrade amplifying OEM speakers with 4-channel-amp.

    Any car audio problem, I can help. (Part 2) - FAQ20Fuses clip image002




    Basic upgrade adding amplified subwoofer with 2-channel or monoblock.

    Any car audio problem, I can help. (Part 2) - FAQ20Fuses clip image002 0000

    Intermediate upgrade amplifying oem speakers and adding a subwoofer With a 5-channel amplifier

    -or-
    Full system including replacement of oem speakers.

    Any car audio problem, I can help. (Part 2) - FAQ20Fuses clip image002 0001

    Dual amp system powering new speakers by 4-channel amp & subwoofer(s) by a 2-channel or monoblock amp.

    Any car audio problem, I can help. (Part 2) - FAQ20Fuses clip image002 0002



    Full blown competition audio/video system with high-end components in front for staging and in the rear for rear fill. 4-channel amp powers all components & 2-channel or monoblock amp powers subwoofer(s). Hybrid capacitor helps to reinforce and stabilize the power source.

    Any car audio problem, I can help. (Part 2) - FAQ20Fuses clip image002 0003
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    Default Ref. Soundstream Site

    Amplifier Installation Tips

    A power amplifier's performance is only as good as its installation.Proper installation will maximize the system's overall performance.
    It is recommended that you have our product installed by an authorized Soundstream retailer. However, if you decide to install it yourself, please follow these safety tips and take your time to do a quality installation:

    1
    Fuse amplifier's power wire at the battery.

    2
    Be sure to fuse the power wire within 12" of the car's battery. This will protect the car's battery in case of a short circuit between the power amplifier and battery.
    THIS IS A MUST, the amplifier's built-in fuse will only protect the power amplifier not the car's battery.

    3
    Use high-grade wire connectors. Use Proper power wire size for maximum current transfer and safety. Improper size power and ground wire can reduce the amplifiers power and poses a risk of damage to the amplifier and the vehicles electrical system. Please follow the recommended "Amplifiers Power Cable Requirements" to ensure maximum power transfer and safety.

    4
    To ensure maximum power transfer and secure safe connections, it is recommended to use high-grade barrier spades (for connection at amplifier) and terminal rings (for connection at battery).

    5
    Do not run any wires underneath vehicle. Exposed wires have a chance of being cut or damaged. It is best to run all wires through the vehicle under the carpet and/or side panels. This lends to a cleaner installation and less risk of damage.

    6
    Use caution when mounting amplifier. Remember there are many electrical wires, gas lines, vacuum lines, brake lines, as well as a gas tank in the automobile. Make sure you know where they are when mounting the amplifier to avoid puncturing lines, shorting wires, or drilling holes in the gas tank.

    7
    To avoid possibility of induced noise from the car's electrical system (i.e. popping noises or engine noise), Keep signal wires (Speaker or RCA) away from any electrical wires.

    8
    In order to reduce the chance of ground loops (i.e. engine noise); make the grounding wire as short as possible to reduce the wire's resistance. Also, when using multiple components, make sure all units are grounded at the same point.

    9
    Avoid sharp edges when running the wires. When laying wiring inside the car, watch for welding burs in channels throughout the car. If necessary adequately grind, finish sand or fill in around any ruff spots so wires will not be punctured by sharp protrusions. Use a grommet to protect the wire when running through the firewall.
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    Fuses, Cable Gauge, Capacitors…

    Fuses…

    I'll bet you think your amplifier fuses are there to protect you amplifier to avoid failure, right? WRONG! While properly fused electronics can save the product if there is a problem, this is not why fuses are required. The reason fuses are so important is because they are what can save your vehicle from a meltdown!

    How many times have you had an amplifier keep blowing a 20-30 amp fuse? How many times have you just put the next size higher in the fuse holder? If you answered 1 or more, slap yourself dummy! It is critical that all electronics be fused and with the Proper size fuse. A fuse too small my blow prematurely or frequently. A fuse too big may allow the product to damage your vehicle. Let's face it, it's easier and cheaper to replace an amplifier than it is to replace a vehicle or at least its fuse panel and wiring. Now, some amplifiers do not have fuses on them. If this if your case, call the manufacturer and ask them what size fuse is required. If you have multiple amps and they are all fused at the amplifier, is all well and done? NO! Regardless of how many amplifiers you have, you MUST have a main in-line fuse from the power cable to the battery. This fuse needs to be within 18” of the battery, no exceptions! If you have 3 amps with a single 25 amp fuse, dual 40 amp fuses and a single 80 amp fuse, then what size do you use for the main fuse under the hood? Simple, add them all up to 185 amps. Since you will not find a 185 fuse, it is okay to add up to 20%, but no more than that or you're defeating the whole idea of protecting the vehicle. We know we can buy 80, 100, 150 and 200 amps fuses at any local shop. A 200 amp fuse is only 8% above the total fuse rating for the system. If you do not listen to the system at full volume all of the time, you can also put in a 150 amp fuse which is only 19% lower than the 185 amp rating and you be in an even better place as far as protection goes, and you never notice the difference…
    Cable Gauge…
    Do you ever wonder why some people use massive cable and wire in their vehicles when smaller cable also works? Because they're smart! In a system like we mentioned above, 185 amps of current is A LOT of power. That is why the cable from an alternator is typically 4 gauge. Here is the common problem… People buy 4 gauge thinking that because it is fairly hefty, that they can build whatever system they choose and power it with this 4 gauge power cable. To carry 185 amps of current, 4 gauge cable should not be used for any length! If your cable length is about 12'm, say for a pick-up truck, the cable needs to be 1/0 gauge! Now, let's say you're a genius and you have a more common system with a badass Soundstream 5-channel Tarantula TRA880.5 Amplifier. This amplifier requires a single 100 amp fuse. You can use 4 gauge power cable for this amp, as long as it is within 6 feet of the battery. Since you're hopefully not installing this on a motorcycle, you'll need approximately 12' for a small car or pick-up truck, and 18-20' for a larger car where the amplifier will be in the trunk. Based on the length requirements and 100 amps of current, you'd have to use a minimum of 2 gauge for the smaller vehicles and 1/0 gauge for a larger vehicle. Being cheap and skimping on the power cable size is foolish because if you run cable too small, you won't be able to pass enough current for the amplifier to operate at full potential. Please refer to our Gauge Chart to see what your system requires…
    Capacitors…

    No not the flux capacitors in Doc's time machine! I'm talking about power reinforcing capacitors. Some people call them “stiffening caps”. Regardless, they do have their place in a system if used properly.
    Charging capacitors properly is important so let's take a second to talk about the proper sequence. With the amplifier not hooked up to power and ground, first connect power from the capacitor to the amplifier. Second, connect the ground from the chassis or battery to the amplifier. Third, connect the ground from the amplifier to the capacitor. Fourth, place the charging bulb between the positive from the battery and the capacitor. When the capacitor is fully charged, the bulb will go out. At this point remove the bulb and attach the positive from the battery to the capacitor. There are right and wrong ways to make these connections. Please see schematics at the end of this article.
    Caps do not make a system louder and is not a substitute for an auxiliary battery. Larger systems can put a power demand on the vehicle that the vehicle is not able to yield sufficiently. You will know if this is your problem because your lights will dim and the sound will become distorted due to amplifier clipping. SO, how much auxiliary capacitance do you need? The rule of thumb is to have a minimum of 1 Farad per 1000 watts, however, the more the better. Large capacitors can resolve this problem to an extent. The questions is, when to add a 2 nd battery and when to add a cap. A battery can cost considerably less, but the problem is that the battery needs to charged properly. Vehicle manufacturers do not give you a bigger alternator than you need. So adding another battery can put a heavy load on the alternator which can cause it to fail prematurely. Adding a high output alternator will resolve this problem, but can be expensive. Caps were introduced to market as a less expensive alternative, but are not as effective. Regardless, large caps can make a noticeable improvement in midbass and mid-high transient response. If your system requires slightly more power than the vehicle can produce or if you are just hearing a bit too much distortion due to amplifier clipping from a lack of sufficient power, than a cap(s) are the hot ticket. If you're building an SPL system, then caps are not a good substitute for batteries.

    Any car audio problem, I can help. (Part 2) - tech speaker terms clip image002
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    Power Requirement Tips

    Determining The Current Capabilities Of Your Vhicle

    Before installing a High Current amplifier in your system you should take into consideration the vehicle's ability to provide adequate current to the amplifier. The most vehicles, the alternator is only capable of supplying a little over the requirements for the standard electrical system (i.e. headlights, air conditioning etc). Depending on how you play your system will determine the amount of current you will need. For example, you listen to your system and low listening levels, and then you will probably use less than one-third the rated current draw. If you play your system loud, then you will use most of the rated current of the amplifier.

    Most alternators have about a 40 percent reserve capability. Order to determine how many in ampere of current you will have for your system; you will need to find out what your alternator is rated at. If you are not sure of the total amperage of your alternator, a good place to look is on the alternator itself. Most alternators have a metal tag stating the total average available. If you cannot find the tag, check with the manufacture to find out the rated amperage. Once rated current of the alternator is determined, you need to multiply this number by .40 in order to determine the reserve current available for use with your power amplifier.

    For Example: Alternator = 80 Amps 80 x .40 = 32 Amps

    Please keep in mind this is an estimate only not exact science. It is best to get your electrical system tested by a professional to determine electrical systems true capabilities.

    Calculating Amplifier Current Demands

    By using the fuse value of the amplifier you can get an idea of the amount of current draw the will be used under full output power. Although the full output rating is good to determine the total amperage draw in the system, it does not represent the true continuous or averaged amperage draw in the system. Listed below is a simple way in order to determine the approximate continuous current draw of your amplifier.

    1
    Determine fuse value of the amplifier.

    2
    Divide the RMS power rating by the Peak power rating.



    For Example: 50Watts RMS Divided by 100 Watts Peak Power = .50 (50%)



    Once you figure the percentage of RMS vs. Peak power, you multiply the fuse value of the amplifier by the RMS percentage.



    For Example: If the amplifiers fuse value were 30A, then 30A multiplied by 50% would be 15A of continuous current draw.

    Upgrading your Electrical System

    Depending on systems current requirements vs. your electrical systems capabilities, you may need to upgrade your electrical system. For example, if you find that you headlights dim when you have your system cranked up when you are driving at night, this is a sign you should upgrade your electrical system.

    There is several different ways order to accomplish this; one way is to upgrade the alternator so that it has higher amperage output. Another way is to purchase a Capacitor. We recommend consulting your Car Audio Retailer to determine what is best for your system.
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    Power Cable Selection Chart

    Selecting the power and ground wire size is an important part of the amplifiers performance and safety. Thicker wire delivers more current when needed. In order to select the proper gauge wire you will need to determine the maximum current draw of all amplifiers and processors that you will connect with this wire. You will also need determine length of wire needed to connect from the battery to the location you mount your amplifiers.

    Recommended Wire Gauge

    The following graph is the recommended wire size based on the systems current draw and length of wire needed:

    Any car audio problem, I can help. (Part 2) - powercable selection
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    How To Stereo Image and Soundstage

    While humongous-sounding bass may let people know you're coming, true car audiophiles know that what really keeps people listening to a system is more than a matter of volume and unbelievable bottom end.

    Overall sound quality, how naturally a car stereo recreates the sound of a master recording, is a key concern of everyone who really appreciates music in an automotive environment - from the casual enthusiast to the serious competitor. And a big part of the overall sonic impression your system makes has to do with the quality of your stereo image.

    When we use the words image or imaging, we're talking about a speaker system's ability to create sound in such a way that you can close your eyes and envision where all the musicians were standing when the recording was made. The position of the voices and instruments should be easily identifiable and shouldn't seem to change with frequency variation.

    The speakers themselves should seem to disappear, replaced instead by this spatial arrangement of music sources, or soundstage. Although the soundstage is created by both front and rear speakers, it should seem to come from in front of you, filling the space from left to center to right.

    Getting great imaging is a matter of understanding not only your components themselves, but also how they interact with your vehicle and the people sitting in it. Properly tweaked, your car or truck can be a dynamic "listening capsule" - a fantastic place to listen to music. But in order to get your vehicle to provide that type of environment, you need to compensate for some of its natural limitations.

    Any car audio problem, I can help. (Part 2) - stereoimage

    "Side-biased" listening

    When you listen to tunes at home, you probably don't make a habit of planting yourself smack dab in front of your left speaker. If you did, you'd be missing out on the detail the right channel has to offer, as well as the spaciousness of a complete stereo image. Yet when you listen to music in the driver's seat of your car, and you have conventional speakers in your doors or dash, you probably get the same type of imbalanced listening experience.

    To get proper imaging, you need as close as possible to equal path lengths between your speakers and your ears. These paths should be unobstructed as well. With your left door speaker about 2-1/2" feet from your left ear and your right door speaker about five feet from your right ear, this is clearly not the case. Playing with the receiver's balance control can help the driver's listening experience, but it throws the image out of whack for the person in the passenger seat.

    There are a number of disadvantages to this "side-biased" listening. The music on your left reaches you before the music on your right. Within certain bandwidths, this may seem to alter your system's response, emphasizing some frequencies over others. The sounds on your left may also seem louder, which will distort the soundstage.

    Other Mounting Options

    Despite the growing popularity of products like Q-Forms, many of us, for reasons of taste or budget, still choose to improve our imaging with a more traditional use of matched components, mounting the mid-woofers in factory locations and tweeters up high on the dash or door. It's wise to keep the mid-woofer and tweeter as close together as possible so that the two drivers will act together as a single point source.

    While a conventional component speaker set-up does leave path lengths unequal, there usually is a direct line from the tweeters to your ears, and this lack of obstruction alone really steps up the level of detail and the quality of your stereo image. Many matched component sets let you adjust the firing angle of the tweeters to further optimize imaging. (Keep this feature in mind when shopping for add-on tweeters.) In fact, a number of forward thinking speaker manufacturers now offer this feature on several of their coaxial speakers.

    Adjusting For Rear Fill

    Once you have your front speakers set up the way you want them, you'll want to make sure that your rear speakers are doing their part to create an ideal soundstage. While personal taste plays a role here, most experts agree that the correct volume for rear speakers is where you're just barely conscious of their presence.

    While your front speakers should give you the best high frequencies possible, your rear speakers can be conventional coaxials or low frequency drivers. Their purpose is to add ambience and depth to your forward soundstage and if they reveal too much high frequency information, they'll "pull" the stereo image to the rear of your vehicle, away from where you want it.

    If you're running a subwoofer in your trunk, you want to avoid the sensation that all the bass is coming from the rear of the car. To keep the soundstage up front, set your crossover to feed your front speakers the lowest frequencies they can safely handle and set your subwoofer crossover between 80 and 100 Hz if your system allows. This setup allows some bass to come from your front speakers and restricts your sub to low bass which is very difficult to localize.

    Testing Your System

    When you have all your components in place, test your system to see that it's imaging properly. We recommend using the material on. The discs in this series provide several tracks to evaluate your system's imaging and to help you determine exactly where corrections are needed. They also provide a broad group of tests along with several music tracks that are great for overall system appraisal.

    As you tweak your system to perfection, spend some time listening to other people's set-ups, informally or at sound-off competitions. Rather than attempting to precisely duplicate the systems you like, try to pick up general concepts and techniques, keeping in mind that every vehicle differs acoustically. What sounds great in a trophy-winning Camaro may muddy up the sound of your BMW. Besides, some of us like very precise imaging, while others among us prefer sound that is a little more spacious and open.

    In the final analysis the stereo image that suits your tastes is the one that's right for you. So, trust your ears.
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    How To Diagnose and Suppress Noise

    Use this diagram to diagnose and cure the most common noise problems associated with outboard amplifiers. The general idea is to isolate the specific cause of the noise in your system. If these tips don't solve the problem, pease consult a car audio installation proffessional. Before you get started, check the fluid in your car battery.
    Sometimes, noise can be eliminated just by topping off the fluid with distilled water!

    Any car audio problem, I can help. (Part 2) - noisediagram
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    Default Using WD 40 on speakers

    I have a question. If i have a set of speakers that are about 3 years old now, when i press the speaker cone in, it makes a rough, scratching/squeaking sound. Is is okay if I spray in some WD 40 into the coil for this, also, does this sound mean that my speakers' performance is compromised?

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    my friend is facing problem, he has installed 6 by 9 in rear shelf of his ALTO, first it was a sealed box with a AIR whole in between two speakers, the bass was boomy and mid was sounding like it is coming from tubewell with echoing and one specific resonance which creates ear fatigue.

    Some other person recommend him to cut the box from underneath and that resonance and echoing effect will eradicate, although he went to get it cut from bottm, sound seems much more better he got rid off that boomy bass and that resonance of mid gets quite low but still it appears which surely is not acceptable when listening to classical jazz music....

    can anybody recommend the solution of this problem???? this system was sounding marvellous in his vitz and as soon as he transferred it in his ALTO, it is not sounding same as before not even close to it.

    Please give solution?????

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    Can you please solve my issue then its a very serious issue
    when i play the cd in my cd player the sound comes from speakers and the bass comes from the subwoofer how can i get rid of this problem expert advice needed indeeeed
    Audi is like a disease once it gets in your blood there is no going back

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    Lmao @ 9bl
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    can u tell me that what's the diffrence between components and speaker..
    A lot of celebrities just want money, fame, power, fancy cars.

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    @9bl
    very basic knowledge u dont know strange....!!
    1st u have to change ur r.c leads from speaker nd subwoofer then add coil which is very basic nd u get easily buy it from any sound audio shop....if its still noising then problem is in ur player grip change it or add some earth wire to player....!!

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    lolx at cplpro.....bro first read it again what he has written.......
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    LMAOOOOOOOOO at MR cpl . Hez a kind heart he just tried to help
    "A person's tongue can give you the taste of his heart."
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    HAHAHA now that was a funny reply made me trip off me sofa
    Audi is like a disease once it gets in your blood there is no going back

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    smartboy_am's Avatar
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    chalo get back on the sofa ,lolx
    NIKON D5100 , AF-S NIKKOR 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G VR kit lens
    Team DEKA

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