I hope I'm not offending @cerwinvega in anyway as this is his thread and it feels akward replying to querries addressed to me ... here is a starters guide for purchasing a used car
-- Price : A very detailed subject as it varies from version to model, on the condition and documents, etc etc
-- technical aspects
-- Body
--- original paint :
- check in diffenrence in shades ..
- check corners for variation in paint thickness ...
- tap the identical body pieces (on both sides of the car ) with your index finger an original paint has hollow ringing sound a painted piece has a thick thud (due to poteen and over coating) ..
- the rubber parts have hints of spray at times.
- Look from a side agle the original paint has a smooth reflection the repaint will give wavy reflection
-- check for rust on floor boards .. engine area and where the paint is bubbling up ... most jdm prior to 2009 were sunami effected and have rusting issues
Replaced Body Parts
-- fenders are usual welded at the bottom when replaced it has to be repainted there
-- replaced doors will have scuff marks of tools used on bolts and welding as well in most japanese cars
-- most japanese cars have sealed fenders these have to re-sealed or the seal is then left undone
[U]check for accidents
[/U]-- there is front plate above or near radiator it should not be painted or dented
-- the seals of all doors and panels should be intact
-- the replaced windows and windscreens are generally of another make
-- pillars should not be painted
-- look underneath (when in doubt) for any welding job on chasis .. generally only the part of chasis in the engine compartment is checked
-- any tempering of body seals in engine compartment like near shock hubs and chasis identity plate is taken seriously
-- the tyres should at the same distance from body, on both sides
-- paint in interor or loose roof insulation can be taken as a clue of serious issues
-- the boot should have normal curves from the inside any denting there could mean an accidented vehicle
-- the stickers inside doors and bonnet are indicators of original body
-- mis-alignment of wheels can be attributed to an accident and taken as such unless ruled out
the engine
-- a dry and white, grey or reddish silencer is indicator of good engine
-- blue and white smoke fromsilencer means weak engine
-- open the oil cap when car is slightly warm and any kind of bluish or white smoke means weak engine
-- an over-hauled engine has sealant splattered on the body where the head gaskit is attached plus the marks on main bolts are visible
-- opening plugs and seeing condition or compression test are the more definitive ways but generally we don't get the opportunity
-- abnormal noise from engine should be taken negative
-- oil viscosity is felt between fingers .. sometime smoke froma slightly weak engine can be supressed temporarily with a thick oil ... in the mkt it is called potato mixed oil
-- throw of the ac should be good and cool
auto-transmission
-- check for abnormal shifts in any gear
-- check oil for any whitish shades and smell of burning
-- it should not make any noise if the car is turned off while in drive position
-- shifting to d2 or d3 or similar should be smooth (always do it on slower speeds or u could damage the gear box)
-- a certain delay in cvt is normal but extended delays in any type is not good
suspension
-- play in steering
-- extra jumps in shocks
-- noises from wheels
-- swaying of car on bumps
documents
-- copy of cnic of seller is must ... signatures should be exactly same
-- get a 15 check ..preferrably check file in registration office
-- look for changes in registration and duplicate stamps
-- a complete file has documents like invoice, bill of landing, motor vehicle tax calculation
-- a company transferred car has affidavits
-- a leasing car has noc and transfer of ownership records
I avoid deals
-- when someone is trying to convince me why his car is better than all other cars in mkt
-- when every gadgetry attached is included in the price
-- when on tel i was told that it is original paint but now a piece is found painted and owner simply shrugs shoulders and says oh it was just a fender painted due to scratches
-- dealing at public places
some general guidelines
-- consider every imported vehicle to be over 100,000 km driven unless u see a genuine auction sheet ... or ruled out by an expert like the keyhole tells a cars usage similarly door closing sound, the radiator, the driver seat they all tell u how much it has been used .. even steering wheel and knobs give a hint
-- a good care taker will keep engine bay clean
-- honest people can be recognized at a distant and i will pay a little more to buy a car from an honest person
-- when u select a car from net .. google contact number and sometimes you find other traits of a person like a full or part time dealers, a kid enthusiast of racing or ricing