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Thread: 87 Accord Suggestion

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    Default 87 Accord Suggestion

    I am planning to buy a 87 or 88 Accord. Next i have plan to change its color to Metallic Red or Blue (Currently Seen in Honda City). I would Plan to do Suspension Overhaul and Engine Swap.

    Engines for consideration are
    1. D15
    2. D16
    3. B18
    4. B20

    I Prefer it to be bolt on Swap.

    I Suppose following calculations

    Engine Cost : 55K
    Engine Old : -20K
    Paint Job : 25k
    Suspension : 15K
    AC and Other Misc : 30K

    total Amount : Approx 100,000

    Questions:
    1. After spending this ammount would i be able to get trouble free car?
    2. The decision to Buy Accord is worth it?
    3. Where do you get Good Engines in Lahore?
    4. Is cost realistic ?
    5. The car would max cost me in 400,000 but again it has no resale so it would go for 3 max. Is it worth to get that car?
    6. Any Preferred workshop for paint and mechanical job?


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    Perhaps @rohaansaeed and @xulfiqar can help me out

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    None of the above mentioned engines would be a bolt on swap
    LIVE 4 NOTHING .........................BUT DIE 4 SOMETHING

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    https://www.pakwheels.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=210795
    2 B20b Engines For Sale..!

    Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 2
    SK

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    Quote Originally Posted by Badpigs View Post
    None of the above mentioned engines would be a bolt on swap
    Can you suggest any engine that gets in bolt on?

    what do you say about other questions

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    the only engines that are a bolt on job are the A series (iron block) Honda engines and the one unique forward canted B20A (only installed in this accord and its sister prelude) - it tilts forward and has 3 engine mounts only.

    The D, and later B engines wont fit, if you wish to use those then you will need to fabricate the engine mounts, cut a chassis leg and use hand made axles.

    The suspension repair figure is not realistic, if you install NEW GENUINE SHOWA struts with Honda part no. - they will cost you Rs 65,000/- for the set, KYB and other cheaper brands vary, The suspension bushings are also quite pricey, I would suggest to keep aside about Rs 50,000/- to overhaul the suspension and steering.

    The body parts are very scarce now, unless you have got personal contacts in Thailand and the phillipines, sourcing them would become unrealisitically expensive, remember these cars were very expensive when brand new, so their parts are similarly expensive. Body work is your own choice, on who does it, I personally would use genuine body panels if they were damaged and make my best effort to restore it to "factory fresh quality"

    no scrappie will pay you 20,000/- for your old engine, they usually pay about 5 or 6 thousand tops. Its quite a simple car to work on but requires a good approach and working knowledge. Using copied pattern parts and other cheaper brands will render the car junk to drive.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    the only engines that are a bolt on job are the A series (iron block) Honda engines and the one unique forward canted B20A (only installed in this accord and its sister prelude) - it tilts forward and has 3 engine mounts only.

    The D, and later B engines wont fit, if you wish to use those then you will need to fabricate the engine mounts, cut a chassis leg and use hand made axles.

    The suspension repair figure is not realistic, if you install NEW GENUINE SHOWA struts with Honda part no. - they will cost you Rs 65,000/- for the set, KYB and other cheaper brands vary, The suspension bushings are also quite pricey, I would suggest to keep aside about Rs 50,000/- to overhaul the suspension and steering.

    The body parts are very scarce now, unless you have got personal contacts in Thailand and the phillipines, sourcing them would become unrealisitically expensive, remember these cars were very expensive when brand new, so their parts are similarly expensive. Body work is your own choice, on who does it, I personally would use genuine body panels if they were damaged and make my best effort to restore it to "factory fresh quality"

    no scrappie will pay you 20,000/- for your old engine, they usually pay about 5 or 6 thousand tops. Its quite a simple car to work on but requires a good approach and working knowledge. Using copied pattern parts and other cheaper brands will render the car junk to drive.
    Thank you for such a detailed info.

    The B20A is hard to find so what can be done related to that? and is it necessary to swap the engine to get car that is not trouble giving? All my Friends say do not go for this car. Because old car would just give you alot of work you cant handle. It would not be trouble free car. The current owner claims that car is in mint condition and he has already overhauled the engine. Do I have better option other than this car? in amount near 3 lack

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    Better buy an EF Civic in that price. You will be able to swap the engine with either of the choices that you've mentioned.

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    honestly I could never find a mint condition used car in Pakistan, they were usually scrap, denter ustaadified, mechanic jugaarbaazi, diesel fuel spray service. hack job electrics and shahjee suspension overhaul.

    They maybe mint for someone but not me.

    e.g. ask the owner of the overhaul, if the cylinders were worn did he use OE honda parts, OEM parts, pattern parts, or resleeved the block (btw this block is never meant to be resleeved, the block is cast around the liners.
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    @Xulfiqar if i get accord for 2.5 or less should I buy it or Leave It (provided Bodys less rusty and interior and lights are good)? i mean to have it as project car which i can do my own things. I Like it because it is big and has sunroof and killing luxary drive.

    Secondly if we put B20A the engine is still old not new so why swap then? can we put any latest engine as of civic 06 or something? so that engine work is minimum

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    The amount of work you want to put in or spend on is your personal choice, Speaking of installing a civic engine, its not very simple to do, the denter will cut out all old mounts from the body of the car and have to weld new brackets to install civic ones,

    After all this exercise the car will still be underpowered as this car requires a bit of low end torque to move which the D series engines lack seriously. The factory B20A (forward tilt) is very rare. I only found two of them in Karachi by accident. The scrappie was about to crush them because no-one wanted to buy those engines as no VTEC head fits on them and they dont fit in any civic etc. When you ask a scrappie to buy this engine for you in dubai/singapore/malaysia etc.. they still usually muddle it up with the CRV engine. which is useless for this car.

    If you want to build and Accord then buy a 4th gen (90-93) and either install its genuine F20A Si version engine or you can even mount an H22 in there on its original mount brackets.

    In short - Im recommending to keep the original design of the car intact, cut/weld etc is not a good approach specially when the only precision tools the installer has are a string and a hammer.
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    @afnan.bashir

    and you are ignoring guru gi's suspension advice. It will give eat up more than 50,000 because i've done a similar type of thing in the past..... So... count your stones well man.
    success is the ability to go from one failure to the next without any loss of enthusiasm

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    bro if you're getting this car in 2.5 lac, just buy it, you will never regret it if engine is in good condition. although mileage on petrol and cng is not good but it is hassle free car, very comfrotable in drive and if you maintain it well it will never let you down on long drives and city drives. i already have it and i love it.

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    yar just go for a 88 civic i have seen ppl spend 500K on them 88 accords and end result is still its a puddle of crap due to low availibity of parts
    my friend had bought one just for him to learn driving etc he knows 0 about cars and always his papa buys new cars or imports new so he drove it and drove it then engine fell down from the foundations while going on a speed bump then he changed engine to a d15b carby
    ok then ac got broken
    then suspension
    then this then electrics
    like u see this car from body it looks good got 2000 civic oem wheels
    not a single dent
    but inside its total crap
    now the funny thing
    he sold it to a guy lets say similar to you who wanted to do a project just for 250000
    and after 3 days that guy was back
    3 days he driven and almost every thing broke
    so after a long jirga and debate
    he bought that car again from that boy
    now its standing with all its faults
    pls im not saying accords are bad
    its the parts and mechincis who ruined this car
    so agian u got good amount of cash go for 88 civic in 400k u can get one with a swapped engine and drop mahool
    Hanjiii Kaa Storeey Eehh !

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    Quote Originally Posted by ekdrifter View Post
    yar just go for a 88 civic i have seen ppl spend 500K on them 88 accords and end result is still its a puddle of crap due to low availibity of parts
    my friend had bought one just for him to learn driving etc he knows 0 about cars and always his papa buys new cars or imports new so he drove it and drove it then engine fell down from the foundations while going on a speed bump then he changed engine to a d15b carby
    ok then ac got broken
    then suspension
    then this then electrics
    like u see this car from body it looks good got 2000 civic oem wheels
    not a single dent
    but inside its total crap
    now the funny thing
    he sold it to a guy lets say similar to you who wanted to do a project just for 250000
    and after 3 days that guy was back
    3 days he driven and almost every thing broke
    so after a long jirga and debate
    he bought that car again from that boy
    now its standing with all its faults
    pls im not saying accords are bad
    its the parts and mechincis who ruined this car
    so agian u got good amount of cash go for 88 civic in 400k u can get one with a swapped engine and drop mahool

    you are absolutely right. Only these type of cars are here in Pakistan. Those "mint" i have seen people are still asking 7 lakh for them and yeah its a fact.
    success is the ability to go from one failure to the next without any loss of enthusiasm

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    @Xulfiqar considering your suggestion i got a 92 model CB3. All Pieces in genuine paint. But do not know its good or bad it already had F18B VTEC Honda Accord CF-3 Engine + CNG. Not sure it was bolt on but i do not see any marks of surgery. Though one mount has manually done extra hole but I think its fine. Please shed some light on it.

    Secondly my car was responsive few days ago then i got its AC Compressor installed and on that car after going one km starts getting hot. and engine power is like i am driving some mehran. wont move easily. what issue might be? AC Guy claims there is no fault with compressor.

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    nice choice,

    the F18 VTEC will mount to it without problems as the mountings are the same, it originally came with a carby or EFI F18 originally. All F and H series engine share the same mounting and bits n pieces.

    For the heatup problem, make sure all air is purged from the system, this is done by the bleeder valve near the back of the engine and use a funnel jammed in the radiator cap socket to raise level. This will positively get all air out, Its best to do this on a slope with the car pointed upwards. Also make sure the thermostat valve is in place, the radiator is the original copper core one with genuine mitsuba fans and that the fans actually work.

    The F18 VTEC usually will have the ECU switch on the fans but you can use a regular civic thermoswitch too.
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    I would tell the mechanic but i am not clear ablut bleeder valve and what is meant by funnel jammed. If you can further elaborate it would be great. I think actual problem caused by AC is that it does not get tripped . Constantly runs

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    the fans will constantly work when the compressor is on, so it should actually cool down the engine as the radiator is oversized for the engine, The funnel jammed into place means - remove radiator cap and take a plastic funnel with a wide neck and put it on the cap opening so you can fill the funnel and have no leaks at the base.

    The bleed valve is a bolt with a hole in it and is a bit rear at the engine on the thermostat cover where the lower radiator pipe connects to. It is used to bleed air from the system otherwise the engine will overheat. Most probably your A/C mechanic took out the radiator for some reason and then filled with plain water and capped it off. The bleed procedure is mandatory on this accord as the level of the engine and radiator cap are nearly equal which causes air pockets. Those air pockets will cause all sorts of problems.

    This procedure was also mandatory in the older accords and civics - most mechanics had no idea and said "fektary faalt hai - injun gess banaraha hai" - and proceeded to remove the thermostat valve and rig the fans.

    A 5 minute bleed procedure takes care of all problems and the system remains original.
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    check for entire wiring of the car

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