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Thread: 87 Accord Suggestion

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    Default 87 Accord Suggestion

    I am planning to buy a 87 or 88 Accord. Next i have plan to change its color to Metallic Red or Blue (Currently Seen in Honda City). I would Plan to do Suspension Overhaul and Engine Swap.

    Engines for consideration are
    1. D15
    2. D16
    3. B18
    4. B20

    I Prefer it to be bolt on Swap.

    I Suppose following calculations

    Engine Cost : 55K
    Engine Old : -20K
    Paint Job : 25k
    Suspension : 15K
    AC and Other Misc : 30K

    total Amount : Approx 100,000

    Questions:
    1. After spending this ammount would i be able to get trouble free car?
    2. The decision to Buy Accord is worth it?
    3. Where do you get Good Engines in Lahore?
    4. Is cost realistic ?
    5. The car would max cost me in 400,000 but again it has no resale so it would go for 3 max. Is it worth to get that car?
    6. Any Preferred workshop for paint and mechanical job?


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    @Xulfiqar today my plug wires got replaced. Brought from Bilal Ganj but were bad so got new. Cleaned throttle body in detail with carb cleaner. Forced Mechanic to open Idle Control Valve and it was worst dirty and stuck. Got my BOSCH plugs cleaned. Mixture screw replaced. One blocked Injector replaced. in short everything done related to tuning and stuff like that.

    Car is much more aggressive and powerful. Problem is that when car starts and i push the throttle and release it the RPM starts dancing from 1 to 2 thousand RPM. Same is on CNG and Petrol. Now the mechanic says well only one thing remains and that is TPS. Change it and if that does not work we would move towards ECU to see why its not controlling it. What can be the correct direction to move forward?


    Secondly I replaced the Oxygen sensor but check light is still on. It always remains on. If i am not wrong the attached image is of the check light........ if not then my meter does not have any other light for as check light
    87 Accord Suggestion -1254958



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    Did your electrician connect this to check engine light wire on ECU? Originally this is cat overheat warning.

    btw was this car originally with a carburettor engine?
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    why doesn't your technician use an ecu scanner
    haters gonna hate, potatoes gonna potate

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    Default

    Dono about the car genuine engine because owner bought it from custom as it is with F18B.
    No Electrician did not do that as he was Mechanic and i was fighting with him because i asked for stable RPM and performance. I have to goto Iqbal Electrition tomorrow if i get free from this mechanic. This guy is not bad mechanic i suppose because he does not have time and bundle of cars to deal with. By the way he detected bad injector correct and leaked spark plug wires correct.

    Anyway here are my TPS results according to The Official Honda TPS wiring and calibration thread - Honda-Tech.

    Voltage at Sensor's Positive and Sensors Negative Input = 4.0 Volts (it should be 5)
    Voltage at Sensor's Positive and Battery Negative = 5.0 Volts (Correct one)
    Idle Voltage at Sensor Out and Sensor's Negative = 0.53 Volts (sort of correct just 0.03 votls error and keep in mind the bad ground so may be with good ground it would be 1.5 as there is 1 V difference. At present 0.5 volts is what ECU needs and its there so ill consider it a go)
    Max Throttle Voltage at Sensor Out and Sensor Negative or Battery Negative = 2.9-3.0 Volts

    RED = Wrong
    Green = Correct expected results
    Conclusion:
    As a TPS is sort of potentiometer it may go bad easily. at Offset its ok but at max it should go Voltage Max which is 4.0 in our case at least it should go there.

    What do you say captain @Xulfiqar

    @margallar bad luck is that this is 92 accord and inside is swapped engine of 2000 accord. Our Beloved mechanics do not put ODBII DLC when they do swap. One way is to check for blue connector to get the check light on meter tell the codes of long and short blinks

    87 Accord Suggestion -1254977

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    install the sensor correctly, sometimes it is installed with the drive tangs not actually touching the arms until 30% of movement. If the tangs in the throttle body are bent then fix that first.

    It would be wise to redo the engine wiring completely so there are no breaks or other problems and that the body wiring from the ECU is also placed correctly. This includes placement of the DLC. Or at least some sort of diagnostic port.

    you should also get this cat heat lamp taken out. It would most probably have been cut out.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Did you goto iqbal electrician? Also please do let me know if someone you know who can make DLC wiring for such engines?

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    don't think so Iqbal Electrician is of any help, anyways, let's see...
    success is the ability to go from one failure to the next without any loss of enthusiasm

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    Went to Iqbal. He solved the erratic Idle problem by adjusting the TPS. As i told him i have done all service including Idle control valve and fast idle control. That issue is gone now. But he did not had time to check my cars ECU and do a check light code testing. and he said its not our domain to trace bad ground............ he said send the car some day and let it be here we would find the schematics and let you know........

    @Xulfiqar his guys checked fuel pump by checking back flow not direct pressure test on in coming fuel. I said why dont you test on in coming fuel he said we test unsuedfuel that goes back to the tank. Is that correct.

    Also i think main problem is voltages. Yesterday two days i have been tracing and soldering any loose joints and cleaning any ground connections but i observed a very strange behavior. When Fuel pump kicks in its voltage is 11.8 Volts but soon it drops to 9.8 volts. I think this is the reason because its not giving the required pressure. The relay gets hot so i suppose fuel pump is taking load.......

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    @Xulfiqar i tried to set my idle by following this Setting Base Idle speed - Honda Accord Forum - Honda Accord Enthusiast Forums

    the problem is when i unplug the IACV harness my car jumps to 2000 RPM on CNG. If i set the Idle-Air bypass screw max clock wise even then i can only bring the RPM to 1500. Later resetting ECU and plugging back the harness brings the car to 700. Turn on Lights and put in gear and turn on the AC the RPM drops and it recovers it to 650. I guess that is not that bad. Is it fine ?

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    Quote Originally Posted by afnan.bashir View Post
    Went to Iqbal. He solved the erratic Idle problem by adjusting the TPS. As i told him i have done all service including Idle control valve and fast idle control. That issue is gone now. But he did not had time to check my cars ECU and do a check light code testing. and he said its not our domain to trace bad ground............ he said send the car some day and let it be here we would find the schematics and let you know........

    @Xulfiqar his guys checked fuel pump by checking back flow not direct pressure test on in coming fuel. I said why dont you test on in coming fuel he said we test unsuedfuel that goes back to the tank. Is that correct.

    Also i think main problem is voltages. Yesterday two days i have been tracing and soldering any loose joints and cleaning any ground connections but i observed a very strange behavior. When Fuel pump kicks in its voltage is 11.8 Volts but soon it drops to 9.8 volts. I think this is the reason because its not giving the required pressure. The relay gets hot so i suppose fuel pump is taking load.......
    For checking the fuel return - lets take into consideration some oddball scenarios

    scenario 1, the fuel pressure regulator goes bad that its now maintaining pressure of 25 psi instead of the 45 psi required, meaning you will see fuel at the return line when the FPR opens at 26 psi - how does this technician think this is a valid pressure test?
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Valid Pressure test is as usual the sprite bottle and check the flow of petrol going back. In my case very few petrol was going back to tank

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    Quote Originally Posted by afnan.bashir View Post
    Valid Pressure test is as usual the sprite bottle and check the flow of petrol going back. In my case very few petrol was going back to tank
    might as well take a sip of water yourself and say - that the fuel pressure is low.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    lolx....... well @Xulfiqar what i meant was there was slow in coming fuel in bottle but believe me everyone checkes like this no body plugs the pressure gauge

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    Quote Originally Posted by afnan.bashir View Post
    lolx....... well @Xulfiqar what i meant was there was slow in coming fuel in bottle but believe me everyone checkes like this no body plugs the pressure gauge
    if everyone checks like that in your city then the "everyone" you mention are incompetent. There is no possible way one can test fuel pressure without a gauge. Find someone else to test it correctly.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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