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Thread: honda accord 1988 engine swap

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    Default honda accord 1988 engine swap

    hello,

    recently my accord 88 crank started to make noise, and it gets worse in one day, mechanic opened up engine and took crank to kharadia, but he said crank is finished. he cannot do anything with it now. so i decided to change the engine.

    i went to engines market in pindi and i purchased HONDA D17A VTEC engine prosmatic transmission (2005 model). i already had auto transmission with my previous A18a1 engine.

    i am expecting my car to be ready in two days. i want to ask the performance of this engine its 1.7 engine with VTEC, i havent seen anybody running accord with this engine so i want to ask weather it is a worthy swap or not? however i have already purchased the engine and installation is in progress.

    there will be new mountings and foundation, same axles can be fit. so i am guessing it wouldn't be any problem in long run.

    i will keep posting pictures.

    expert opinion required.

    Attached Images Attached Images     

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    probably used a civic oil filter and probably the oil control jet in the block that forces high oil pressure to the crank. Most mechanics threw it out because they could not fathom that the camshaft and rockers could be oiled enough by the tiny 3mm orifice that the jet had.

    a combination of these results in worn out crank bearings.

    Now that you have bought yourself a civic engine and are comfortable with cutting and welding sheet metal in your cars unibody structure, make sure you get everything done properly - namely wiring - it has to be 100% like factory spec if you want a hassle free drive, otherwise you would need to take out 1 day each week to visit the mechanic/electrician.

    Before the guy slaps the engine in its best to renew the subframe bushings at this time, they are a total of 8 and are usually bad after 10 years, this car is beyond the 20 year age mark. So they definitely are bad, you wont believe it but the subframe does move on the bushings when the engine torques back and forth. They are to reduce noise levels in the cabin and to provide a safety break point in the case of an accident.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Thank @Xulfiqar, you are 200% right about the situation, i had to go to islamabad from Lahore, so i changed engine oil and change oil filter, i knew he is fitting civic filter which they normally use, i asked him if they had accord filter which is longer in shape and length, he said this works too. so i didnt bother.
    and on my way to islamabad i started to feel enging making very low noise from crank on hilly area, so when i reached islamabad it was making worse noise on above 2 rpm. and there was no pickup and car was heating up. Than i went to workshop and rest thing happened.

    well mechanic has done fitting of new engine and it looks factory fitted engine.lol
    well i want to know what is performance of this engine , would it be generating enough torque to move car efficiently?

    i will check about subframe bushing also.

    Regards.

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    Using a civic oil filter does not make the engine die suddenly, it only affects cold startup, once the engine is running the filter works like any other filter, It seems that your engine suffered oil pressure failure, I know of 2 cases personally of the oil pump fitting O ring hardening causing the oil pump to fail, That is why I always recommended people to renew the oil pump O rings when renewing the timing belt, The oil pump is run from the timing belt and its a 2 minute job to replace those rings once the belt is off. (both are available as genuine Honda spares - replacement parts are not reliable in this case)

    The other point of failure is using RTV on the oil pump pickup tube O ring (very common practice), I always recommended to renew that O ring with a NEW part and install it anytime the sump is taken off (leaking gasket etc). The correct genuine part is green in colour.

    but anyway - your engine is dead now.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Default engine swap done - results

    hello again,

    well engine swap is successfully done, without any problem. the only problem that i faced after first try on road, i broke the axle rod which was weld when i accelerated the car on full throttle, so it was a good thing cause then they replaced one piece axle rod of honda civic 1995 model and it fit same as original now i dont have any fear of breaking this axle rod.

    conclusions, car is much more smooth and noise free, pick is great, goes to 100km in seconds, gear shifting is quick and fuel consumption is also very much economical on my trip from islamabad to lahore i got 15km/liter on 120km/hr speed. i was able to reach lahore in 25 or 26 liters petrol (370km distance from M2 motorway)
    pickup is great as it goes to 120+ km/hr in 2nd gear and on motorway i drove on 220km/hr without any trouble. the only problem is now that brakes are not as good as it was previously, suggest me how can i get better braking system to stop car from 100 or 120km to 0km in less time. currently i dont have ABS, front two are disc brakes and rear wheels are regular drum brakes.

    here are some pictures of new engine
    Attached Images Attached Images    

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    Quote Originally Posted by sulemanb View Post
    hello again,

    well engine swap is successfully done, without any problem. the only problem that i faced after first try on road, i broke the axle rod which was weld when i accelerated the car on full throttle, so it was a good thing cause then they replaced one piece axle rod of honda civic 1995 model and it fit same as original now i dont have any fear of breaking this axle rod.

    conclusions, car is much more smooth and noise free, pick is great, goes to 100km in seconds, gear shifting is quick and fuel consumption is also very much economical on my trip from islamabad to lahore i got 15km/liter on 120km/hr speed. i was able to reach lahore in 25 or 26 liters petrol (370km distance from M2 motorway)
    pickup is great as it goes to 120+ km/hr in 2nd gear and on motorway i drove on 220km/hr without any trouble. the only problem is now that brakes are not as good as it was previously, suggest me how can i get better braking system to stop car from 100 or 120km to 0km in less time. currently i dont have ABS, front two are disc brakes and rear wheels are regular drum brakes.

    here are some pictures of new engine
    sounds great..do share video if you can
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    Quote Originally Posted by born_2b_wild View Post
    sounds great..do share video if you can
    thanks bro, i will make one video and share.

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    take a spirit level and measure the height of the power steering pump and the power steering oil bottle max level, the max level should be at least 2 or 3 inches higher than the pump top.

    If its not then the pump will take on air.
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    How much did the engine cost you?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    take a spirit level and measure the height of the power steering pump and the power steering oil bottle max level, the max level should be at least 2 or 3 inches higher than the pump top.

    If its not then the pump will take on air.
    @Xulfiqar bhai, power steering pump is little higher than the power steering oil bottle, what problem can occur due to this or what if power pump takes on air??

    another thing, when they swap the engine and everything was done, power steering was not working as a power steering it was very hard just like ordinary steering, so mechanic said its due to electronic system that this engine has electronic system for speedometer as my speedometer is not working with this engine only rpm meter is working, i need to convert meter to digital one with sensor (i will get it done). so what he did for power steering is; he took out speedometer guage(gharari) from the old engine body and that gharari has two nozzles he connected power steering two pipes which was connected together he open that joint and connected them on both nozzles and power steering became very very smooth and working fine. what do you suggest about this?

    waiting for your reply.
    honda accord 1988 engine swap -1244652

    @gujar96 it costed me with my old engine replacement around 70,000rs with each an everything.

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    those two nozzles are to harden the steering at higher speed (reduce power assist), its built as a governor assembly into the speedo drive unit. BUT - you need a VSS pulse on this ECU to work or otherwise it will go into faulty limp home mode with permanent CEL.

    abt the power steering pump etc. YES it will take on air if the pump sits higher than the bottle as liquid (oil) will always level itself out. The original engine had the pump quite a bit lower than the bottle to eliminate this problem. Infact all cars in the world have the bottle really high or right on top of the pump.

    also make double sure the radiator cap is higher than the top most coolant pipe, if not it will also trap air and become a pain the neck.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    can this car power steering be connected with ECU? if yes how? please explain if i keep driving in currenct scenraio will it harm engine or gearbox?

    also i have checked power steering oil bottle is higher than power pump and radiotor is also higher than all pipes.

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    nice thread and swap
    good luck with the annoying little troubleshooting's though!
    Life is short and very unpredictable just like a Quarter mile .....

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    Cost for engine change ?

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    Default cost

    Well bro complete engine swap with everything cost me around 75,000rs with my old engine replacement.
    New engine has prosmatic gear box, ac compressor, pipes, power pump. And this cost includes, new mountings, foundations and axel rods.

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    @Xulfiqar, as my power steeering is not connected to ECU, is there any harm? or my ECU will go into limp home mode?

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    nopes - the steering pressure sensor is for raising idle speed when the pressure goes really high.

    btw has your electrician provided the DLC complete with K line for diagnosis or is he using a wire and test lamp to check codes.
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    no DLC lines , he is using wire and test lamp.

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    please proceed to shoot that person. In every walk of life there is a right way to do things and there is the "jugaarbaazi way" - the right way will lead you to perfection, the other wont.

    The beauty of OBD2 is that you can have ONE interface to the ECU and see whats going on.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    please proceed to shoot that person. In every walk of life there is a right way to do things and there is the "jugaarbaazi way" - the right way will lead you to perfection, the other wont.

    The beauty of OBD2 is that you can have ONE interface to the ECU and see whats going on.
    now please tell me the procedure to get it done, i mean from where electrician will start and end and which things needs to be opened or altered? cause until unless i dont know myself, i cannot find him doing Jugar bazi. please explain in minimum technical language

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