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Thread: My 3rd Gen Accord.

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    Smile My 3rd Gen Accord. Proper JDM! UPDATED! More interior shots!

    A little work still left will complete it ASAP. It's a nice car MASHALLAH and i love it. It's all about quality and luxury. Proper JDM! Will upload more pictures soon.

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    Quote Originally Posted by zia1288 View Post
    Nice ride. Is that tape on roof or paint? Do get the front and back lights cleaned. By the way why is meter showing speed till 220? Wasn't there restriction of 180 km/h in those days?
    Thanks. It's paint. Previous owner tried a weird experiment. Will get the roof color scraped and will get it painted white again. Previous owner got the lamps cleaned. But i want to get them cleaned again this time properly. Still minor dirt left inside the lamps. The brand new Accord which arrived in Pak were never restricted.

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    Quote Originally Posted by zainiqbal1990 View Post
    I hope you didn't got there just for shoot.
    hahahaha yes I just wanted good background and so I just got there for shoots

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    Quote Originally Posted by saboor73 View Post
    hahahaha yes I just wanted good background and so I just got there for shoots
    There are many better places.

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    Quote Originally Posted by zainiqbal1990 View Post
    There are many better places.
    It was preety near to my home so got there

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    It's cool.

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    MashaALLAH Nice Ride
    Two of the best quotes of Punjabi : 1. Rull tan gae aan! Per Chass aa Gae ai!, 2. Gal Pya Dhol Ty Wajana Penda ay.

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    Quote Originally Posted by suzukialtomehran View Post
    MashaALLAH Nice Ride
    Thanks!

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    A lovely car of its time. I used to stand stunned and watch in awe whenever it would pass by me. Put some effort into this ride and you'll love it.
    https://www.facebook.com/hidefcars

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    this is called the "export model" 1.6 litre engine with sunroof, powered windows, mirrors and push button HVAC controls - fabric seats. Its speedo was always 220 km/h (it wont ever ever get there as the gearing only allows 175 km/h max)

    good cars of their time.

    btw - why is your engine stone cold with 900 rpm? - bad adjustment or missing thermostat valve?


    furthermore - this is not called JDM.

    JDM = Japan Domestic Model, Those accords were imported by some private parties as used cars and had the 1.6 carby, 1.8 twin carb the 2.0 EFI and even some were the 2.0 Si models which the B20A engine. Yours is called export.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by fouadbakht View Post
    A lovely car of its time. I used to stand stunned and watch in awe whenever it would pass by me. Put some effort into this ride and you'll love it.
    Yup step by step will try to improve the looks. Spent all the money in making it mechanically fit.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    this is called the "export model" 1.6 litre engine with sunroof, powered windows, mirrors and push button HVAC controls - fabric seats. Its speedo was always 220 km/h (it wont ever ever get there as the gearing only allows 175 km/h max)

    good cars of their time.

    btw - why is your engine stone cold with 900 rpm? - bad adjustment or missing thermostat valve?


    furthermore - this is not called JDM.

    JDM = Japan Domestic Model, Those accords were imported by some private parties as used cars and had the 1.6 carby, 1.8 twin carb the 2.0 EFI and even some were the 2.0 Si models which the B20A engine. Yours is called export.
    Push buttons on A/C panel, weren't they common at that time? If gearing only allows 175 what's the point of giving 220? Because in 3rd it easily crosses 100 so i expect it to touch 200 in 5th but i won't try that LOL because it's not a brand new car. All 3rd gen Accords were imported used? Well mine is 1600cc which is more then enough for me. This came without thermostat and radiator fan running direct. After getting the A/C fixed the electrician also made the condenser fan run on direct. Whenever i start it cold i pull the choke. There are 4 different settings for choke. After warming it up a little i close the choke. This is a old car. I recently flushed the radiator and added quality coolant. The good this is coolant level stays full in the radiator. Everyone i know friends and relatives say living in Karachi it's better to remove thermostat valve and making the fans run direct and same is said by all the mechanics. I want to install thermostat back in and get the fans on auto. But if something goes wrong i shall be blamed. And i avoided getting oil sprayed underneath the car while getting it serviced. Then again relatives and mechanics told me always get oil sprayed underneath the car. I myself noticed if i don't get the oil sprayed the suspension bushes seem so dry and i get worried if they dry up enough and start getting cracks. These 2 myths make me want to bang my head on the wall!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    this is called the "export model" 1.6 litre engine with sunroof, powered windows, mirrors and push button HVAC controls - fabric seats. Its speedo was always 220 km/h (it wont ever ever get there as the gearing only allows 175 km/h max)

    good cars of their time.

    btw - why is your engine stone cold with 900 rpm? - bad adjustment or missing thermostat valve?


    furthermore - this is not called JDM.

    JDM = Japan Domestic Model, Those accords were imported by some private parties as used cars and had the 1.6 carby, 1.8 twin carb the 2.0 EFI and even some were the 2.0 Si models which the B20A engine. Yours is called export.
    I also want to ask few more things. I run this car on CNG. Karachi's weather is hot. Coolant line for in and out on Landi Renzo's CNG kit is that a useful thing? Should it be used? And without A/C RPM stays at 800. With A/C it reaches 1100. Tried to adjust RPM but if i reduce it car will vibrate without A/C because RPM drops. It won't shut down but the RPM drops and it will idle at 200 RPM. And one last thing exhaust manifold is having a outlet. When i searched on the internet a pipe is connected to it and runs somewhere around firewall area. What is the purpose of it? My car is missing that pipe.

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    Quote Originally Posted by zainiqbal1990 View Post
    Push buttons on A/C panel, weren't they common at that time? If gearing only allows 175 what's the point of giving 220? Because in 3rd it easily crosses 100 so i expect it to touch 200 in 5th but i won't try that LOL because it's not a brand new car. All 3rd gen Accords were imported used? Well mine is 1600cc which is more then enough for me. This came without thermostat and radiator fan running direct. After getting the A/C fixed the electrician also made the condenser fan run on direct. Whenever i start it cold i pull the choke. There are 4 different settings for choke. After warming it up a little i close the choke. This is a old car. I recently flushed the radiator and added quality coolant. The good this is coolant level stays full in the radiator. Everyone i know friends and relatives say living in Karachi it's better to remove thermostat valve and making the fans run direct and same is said by all the mechanics. I want to install thermostat back in and get the fans on auto. But if something goes wrong i shall be blamed. And i avoided getting oil sprayed underneath the car while getting it serviced. Then again relatives and mechanics told me always get oil sprayed underneath the car. I myself noticed if i don't get the oil sprayed the suspension bushes seem so dry and i get worried if they dry up enough and start getting cracks. These 2 myths make me want to bang my head on the wall!
    I overhauled and ran a similar accord for about 380,000 kms, points of success were.

    1 - always ensure the engine gets nice n toasty hot (at least 40% gauge sweep) - this engine has 82C thermostat - its mandatory
    2 - always ensure the radiator fans are good - they run in parallel, meaning the cooling fan relay in the fuse box runs both fans at the same time.
    3 - always make sure your engine oil is acceptable quality - this is a very old engine and was specced for API SE oil and use the correct accord (4 inch tall) filter.

    4 always use good coolant and make sure to burp all the air from the bleed valve near the distributor.


    - anyone telling you to run the engine cold is either
    1 - not your freind
    2 - terribly misinformed

    the dried bushings can only be helped by replacing them, the oil spray is actually what has rotted and dried them out, The rear of the car has about 14 bushings in total and a ball joint on each side - total replacement cost with new Honda parts would run you about Rs 40,000 today and takes careful pressing in a press to accomplish, the front setup is similar to the 90s civics but is more robust and heavy.

    If your car has dried bushings then its not even 20% close to what its supposed to drive like


    these cars with the 1.6 engine, 220 km/h speedo, sunroof etc were imported brand new not used, the used JDM were imported later and usually got into a great maintenance problem due to their vacuum system which had 50 pipes.

    The pipe fitting sticking from the silver cover of the manifold is actually a hot air pipe that connects to the under of the air cleaner snorkel - you will see a vacuum pod on the air cleaner - if you look under it you will see the pipe fitting - Its not useful - it was done for good vapour formation in the intake manifold with cold engine - its own thermostat is in the air cleaner lid - open it and you will find it.

    Does your car have the original plastic accordion pipe that connects the air cleaner to the fender? - its a real cold air intake setup right from the factory


    adjust idle speed from the plastic screw on the carby when the engine is hot - then run the A/C and adjust the A/C rpm from its own little screw - the engine should idle at 850 rpm with or without A/C. The A/C circuit has a delay timer in it that allows a half second delay - this way you never feel the compressor start only hear a click. Does your car have the original 10 cylinder denso compressor or a swapped sanden
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    I overhauled and ran a similar accord for about 380,000 kms, points of success were.

    1 - always ensure the engine gets nice n toasty hot (at least 40% gauge sweep) - this engine has 82C thermostat - its mandatory
    2 - always ensure the radiator fans are good - they run in parallel, meaning the cooling fan relay in the fuse box runs both fans at the same time.
    3 - always make sure your engine oil is acceptable quality - this is a very old engine and was specced for API SE oil and use the correct accord (4 inch tall) filter.

    4 always use good coolant and make sure to burp all the air from the bleed valve near the distributor.


    - anyone telling you to run the engine cold is either
    1 - not your freind
    2 - terribly misinformed

    the dried bushings can only be helped by replacing them, the oil spray is actually what has rotted and dried them out, The rear of the car has about 14 bushings in total and a ball joint on each side - total replacement cost with new Honda parts would run you about Rs 40,000 today and takes careful pressing in a press to accomplish, the front setup is similar to the 90s civics but is more robust and heavy.

    If your car has dried bushings then its not even 20% close to what its supposed to drive like


    these cars with the 1.6 engine, 220 km/h speedo, sunroof etc were imported brand new not used, the used JDM were imported later and usually got into a great maintenance problem due to their vacuum system which had 50 pipes.

    The pipe fitting sticking from the silver cover of the manifold is actually a hot air pipe that connects to the under of the air cleaner snorkel - you will see a vacuum pod on the air cleaner - if you look under it you will see the pipe fitting - Its not useful - it was done for good vapour formation in the intake manifold with cold engine - its own thermostat is in the air cleaner lid - open it and you will find it.

    Does your car have the original plastic accordion pipe that connects the air cleaner to the fender? - its a real cold air intake setup right from the factory


    adjust idle speed from the plastic screw on the carby when the engine is hot - then run the A/C and adjust the A/C rpm from its own little screw - the engine should idle at 850 rpm with or without A/C. The A/C circuit has a delay timer in it that allows a half second delay - this way you never feel the compressor start only hear a click. Does your car have the original 10 cylinder denso compressor or a swapped sanden
    Yea you right should be a little below half. I replaced both the fans and both motors. Yea is controlled by one relay which is inside the fuse box which is located in engine bay. Both fans are direct and due to this reason relay stays a little hot. Using 20-50 engine oil recently changed so far clocked 2500 on this oil and the good thing is oil is still clean just like new. Will attach oil filter pictures. I flushed the system with clean water drove for a day and then later drained the water flushed the system again then poured in ABRO's coolant which is US made and the red one. I'm just worried if i install the thermostat back in the engine would loose little coolant day by day. It stays full now don't know the effect after installing thermostat. Only few bushings are dried up most of them are in pretty good shape. Was wondering if i don't get oil sprayed under the car will the dryness effect the bushes which are in good shape. My car is having around 10-15 vacuum pipes. 2 of the pipes are not going anywhere i am uploading the pictures. Yeah you are right regarding manifold's pipe just wanted to be sure and good that you told me it won't be necessary. Yea a proper stock cold air intake uploading pictures. I guess i just found the plastic screw behind the throttle body near firewall while taking pictures. And i am uploading picture of the compressor installed in it let me know if this one is it's stock compressor. If not then which one. Thanks for helping me out uploading pictures now.
    Attached Images Attached Images       

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    the vacuum pipe fittings are pretty simple - the one coming from the pod in the air cleaner housing goes under the air cleaner box - it has its own little thermostat with 2 vacuum lines, one goes to the red cylinder fitting,

    connect the one from the air cleaner pod to under the airbox, there should already be a vacuum pipe going from one nipple to the orange/black fitting on the airbox - connect the other side of the fitting to the vacuum tree.

    The other pipe that you see going through a clip on the manifold goes to the vacuum advance pod on the distributor.

    the A/C compressor you show is not original - its a sanden (not good IMO - original one was far better).

    its strange that this car still has the original Made in Japan sticker on the front. btw how much did you pay for it?


    I also cannot see the PCV valve on the engine, its located between the intake manifold and is connected by a U shaped pipe - I see your engine has that pipe going down somewhere.

    and that oil filter is not correct, its the smaller civic filter, the filter this engine uses is 25% longer and actually has the PH4 in the middle of the part number.

    there is also another filter in this engine which needs cleaning every 4 or 5 years, its located inside the little box that the valve cover breather connects to - its just a piece of insulation material which needs to be washed with petrol and dried.
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    btw what colour is on the roof? dark green?
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    lerkay what are the updates ???

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    the vacuum pipe fittings are pretty simple - the one coming from the pod in the air cleaner housing goes under the air cleaner box - it has its own little thermostat with 2 vacuum lines, one goes to the red cylinder fitting,

    connect the one from the air cleaner pod to under the airbox, there should already be a vacuum pipe going from one nipple to the orange/black fitting on the airbox - connect the other side of the fitting to the vacuum tree.

    The other pipe that you see going through a clip on the manifold goes to the vacuum advance pod on the distributor.

    the A/C compressor you show is not original - its a sanden (not good IMO - original one was far better).

    its strange that this car still has the original Made in Japan sticker on the front. btw how much did you pay for it?


    I also cannot see the PCV valve on the engine, its located between the intake manifold and is connected by a U shaped pipe - I see your engine has that pipe going down somewhere.

    and that oil filter is not correct, its the smaller civic filter, the filter this engine uses is 25% longer and actually has the PH4 in the middle of the part number.

    there is also another filter in this engine which needs cleaning every 4 or 5 years, its located inside the little box that the valve cover breather connects to - its just a piece of insulation material which needs to be washed with petrol and dried.
    LOL the color of roof is dark blue. Previous owner did that and i am thinking of doing it white again. I am unable to figure out which vacuum pipe goes where. I will take few pics from a distance and then you can mark out which pipe goes where using Microsoft paint. The A/C works very good MASHALLAH and in night fogs up everything. Yup the original sticker is still intact! Bought it for 350000. What's the purpose of PCV valve? Can you Google up pic of engine bay and mark up the PCV valve. I think that oil filter won't harm the engine has clocked 2500 kilometers in my hands and engine oil is clean enough MASHALLAH. Mark up that filter too will check if it's there and will clean it with petrol. BTW thanks for teaching me how to adjust RPM settings with A/C and without A/C. It worked!

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    Quote Originally Posted by afatifa View Post
    lerkay what are the updates ???
    Sorry for being lazy. Will take more snaps and upload!

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    My 3rd Gen Accord -1493391

    My 3rd Gen Accord -1493394

    the red box is the PCV valve breather line, Originally the PCV valve sits in a little hole cast into the manifold right next to this pipe and is connected by a very short U shaped pipe.

    the PCV valve is on top of a funnel shaped bent rubber pipe which is connected to a breather box besides the oil filter and this breather box is then connected via a large diamter pipe directly to the sump (oil chamber) with pipe clamps (jubilee clamps)
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