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Thread: @Xulfiqar - Help - Liqui Moly Engine oil for Alto 660cc

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    Default @Xulfiqar - Help - Liqui Moly Engine oil for Alto 660cc

    Dear Xulfiqar,

    Sir i think u know a lot about cars.

    My car is alto 2010. 36000 on odo meter i dunno if that is true as the car was bought from dealer.
    car is running fine.

    i wanted to the change oil of my car and i am currently using toyota gli ka oil filter aur toyota ka yeh wala oil. http://www.toyota-indus.com/parts/lu...s/petron-plus/

    i change oil and oil filter between 2500kms and 3000kms and it costs me Rs.2800/oil & oil filter change.

    i want to switch to liqui moly because as per my ca

    i went to the shop on ferozpur road Lahore.

    they had:

    1. 5w-30 without mos2 additive and SN grade.
    2. 10w-40 with mos2 and SL grade.

    i have three options:

    1. keep on using current oil and filter and use oil for 2500 - 3000kms. cost per kilometer will be Rs.1.05/km
    2. use 5w-30 without mos2 additive and SN grade and add mos2 additive. it was a blue pack with green labels. the dealer said i can use it for 12,000kms. i was thinking to use it for 7500 or 8000kms. cost per kilometer including two oil filter changes in middle will be Rs.0.88/km.
    3. use 10w-40 with mos2 and SL grade. it is a silver pack with black labels i think. the dealer said i can use it for 10,000kms. i was thinking to use it for 7500 or 8000kms. cost per kilometer including two oil filter changes in middle will be Rs.0.753/km.

    i know a local mechanic. i discussed this with him and he told me that as per conditions in Lahore we should use 10-40w oil. since car's engine is small, wear n tear is more and i should not use the oil till 10,000 or 12,000kms. he said bigger engines have lesser wear as compared to smaller engines.

    please help me choose among the three options & how long should i use it for. What would u do?

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    Quote Originally Posted by shuja11 View Post
    I got hold of engine manual for a K6A engine.

    can you please see the attached photo and suggest which company has this oil? and where to buy it from an authentic retailer in Lahore.

    Also can you guys tell me what it means in the table when they are referring to oil change intervals?
    For me, knowing the min. viscosity is more important.
    Manual says to feed min. 5w oil. And for your reference, most of the "fuel saving" & efficient engine oils usually comes with low weight as 5w.
    So now depending upon your pocket, you have series of available oils that you can feed starting with 5w. All world is yours brother.
    If want to go for semi synthetic oils, then choose PTT 5/30 or LM 5/30 (I am not sure if they 5/30 oil).
    If want to go for fully synthetic, then 5/40 & 5/50.

    Well, If I have this car, then I must choose Molygen 5/50. Because Molygen has higher viscosity as 50, fully synthetic, have high wear & low friction properties, etc. etc. and keep the changing interval as 7~8K with both filters change after 4K.

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    thanks man.

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    dont use any fancy shmancy oils - btw molygen etc is a group 3 synthetic (aka cheap synthetic) and is mostly rated for diesel engines - its got a load of VI modifiers too.

    The manual you printed here asks for oldschool oil like the oldest Havoline oil, (mostly due to valve train type). The other bit that makes this a bit strange is that its speccing a torque of 36 lb/ft on the drain bolt, either this bolt is really thick or is tightened into a steel pan, the other bit is that its telling to change according to hours not mileage.

    This more looks like a generator or stationary engine.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    dont use any fancy shmancy oils - btw molygen etc is a group 3 synthetic (aka cheap synthetic) and is mostly rated for diesel engines - its got a load of VI modifiers too.

    The manual you printed here asks for oldschool oil like the oldest Havoline oil, (mostly due to valve train type). The other bit that makes this a bit strange is that its speccing a torque of 36 lb/ft on the drain bolt, either this bolt is really thick or is tightened into a steel pan, the other bit is that its telling to change according to hours not mileage.

    This more looks like a generator or stationary engine.
    The reason for putting Molygen in group III is because of its higher viscosity which is 50.

    By the way, how to know that which synthetic oil belongs to which particular group?
    Hope you can share a bit.

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    ^^btw, whats up with you ignoring the manuals? :/
    I mean it is written clearly there:

    for normal conditions: 10W-30 SH
    for cold conditions: 5w-30 SG

    as simple as THAT^!!! no rocket science
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    dont use any fancy shmancy oils - btw molygen etc is a group 3 synthetic (aka cheap synthetic) and is mostly rated for diesel engines - its got a load of VI modifiers too.

    The manual you printed here asks for oldschool oil like the oldest Havoline oil, (mostly due to valve train type). The other bit that makes this a bit strange is that its speccing a torque of 36 lb/ft on the drain bolt, either this bolt is really thick or is tightened into a steel pan, the other bit is that its telling to change according to hours not mileage.

    This more looks like a generator or stationary engine.
    the excerpt is from the Jacobsen manual, they must have used this engine in a lawnmower
    https://www.facebook.com/OsamaAbbasPhotography

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    Quote Originally Posted by GoodMan7 View Post
    The reason for putting Molygen in group III is because of its higher viscosity which is 50.

    By the way, how to know that which synthetic oil belongs to which particular group?
    Hope you can share a bit.
    You can look at the general properties of the lube to sort of identify the group, you can also get a declaration from the oil blender themselves. They also print it as public information.

    Using a hot 50 viscosity is not the end of the game, hot 50 means that the engine is assembled really loose or has a very high load low rpm condition to serve - like you posted.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    You can look at the general properties of the lube to sort of identify the group, you can also get a declaration from the oil blender themselves. They also print it as public information.

    Using a hot 50 viscosity is not the end of the game, hot 50 means that the engine is assembled really loose or has a very high load low rpm condition to serve - like you posted.
    ok, i'll read the oil bottles from the prospect of knowing their synthetic grouping and will try to find out. But frankly i don't think it would be mentioned here in Pak. But i will check

    as far as the hot 50 concern, frankly i don't think its very hot. because 50F = 10C
    plz check my other thread also
    https://www.pakwheels.com/forums/oil...es-centigrades
    No Guts, No Glory.

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    to the OP, bhai kyun tension le hui hae, I never changed the oil in my K6A Alto because the Engine (assembly) was for 12k, ran it for a year and it was smooth as silk. Suzuki engines are very robust, dont underestimate them.

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    Brother LM 5W30 is best fit for your car.
    All life is an experiment. The more experiments you make the better.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ahmedk06 View Post
    to the OP, bhai kyun tension le hui hae, I never changed the oil in my K6A Alto because the Engine (assembly) was for 12k, ran it for a year and it was smooth as silk. Suzuki engines are very robust, dont underestimate them.
    i think this would be a killer for the engine and makes no sense to me AT ALL.

    i once went to look at a car for my brother. the owner said i change the oil when the car feels a bit slow. i was thinking: Holy **** ru insane? means this car has been used very badly. NO i will NOT buy this car.

    i have a frnd who has a cultus. he duznt care about the car and after 2 years of use. the car heated up and has not recovered since.

    the local manufacturers say keh oil 5000kms kai baad change kerwao.

    please dont tell me to change the oil after 12,000kms

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    dont use any fancy shmancy oils - btw molygen etc is a group 3 synthetic (aka cheap synthetic) and is mostly rated for diesel engines - its got a load of VI modifiers too.

    The manual you printed here asks for oldschool oil like the oldest Havoline oil, (mostly due to valve train type). The other bit that makes this a bit strange is that its speccing a torque of 36 lb/ft on the drain bolt, either this bolt is really thick or is tightened into a steel pan, the other bit is that its telling to change according to hours not mileage.

    This more looks like a generator or stationary engine.
    Sir i dont feel good about my car if it has older grade oil. i also think 10-30 or 5-30 is well suited for my car. SG n SH i think will not be available here. im using SN 10-30 which as per your recommendation is very fancy. Right?

    Total Oils in Pakistan - Restitution.aspx
    Shell Oils in Pakistan - The Shell Helix range of car oils - Shell Pakistan
    Zic Oils in Pakistan - Zic Oil Pakistan
    Toyota Oils in Pakistan - Lubricants | Toyota Indus
    Liqui Moly Oils in Pakistan - ~~: Liqui Moly Pakistan :~~

    let me know which would u choose.

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    Quote Originally Posted by GoodMan7 View Post
    ok, i'll read the oil bottles from the prospect of knowing their synthetic grouping and will try to find out. But frankly i don't think it would be mentioned here in Pak. But i will check

    as far as the hot 50 concern, frankly i don't think its very hot. because 50F = 10C
    plz check my other thread also
    https://www.pakwheels.com/forums/oil...es-centigrades
    50 is not F or C - SAE rating of 50 for viscosity means that at 100C its viscosity should be between 14-22 cst - which is very thick, modern high efficiency engines are specced for 10 cst or less nowadays, Oldschool engines like suzuki F8B, Toyota xE xA etc are good with this.

    According to your chart we should be using gear oil in engines because the thermostats keep the engine at a minimum of 85C.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    50 is not F or C - SAE rating of 50 for viscosity means that at 100C its viscosity should be between 14-22 cst - which is very thick, modern high efficiency engines are specced for 10 cst or less nowadays, Oldschool engines like suzuki F8B, Toyota xE xA etc are good with this.

    According to your chart we should be using gear oil in engines because the thermostats keep the engine at a minimum of 85C.
    i just read the synthetic oil bottles of total, kixx, ptt, zic and shell. No where its mentioned about their synthetic groupage.
    Further more they didnot mention the contact numbers of their factories to contact (as you mentioned in another post that these are available for public etc.).
    Plz note.
    No Guts, No Glory.

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    Quote Originally Posted by GoodMan7 View Post
    i just read the synthetic oil bottles of total, kixx, ptt, zic and shell. No where its mentioned about their synthetic groupage.
    Further more they didnot mention the contact numbers of their factories to contact (as you mentioned in another post that these are available for public etc.).
    Plz note.
    Just like your car does not have a phone number printed on the dashboard to call its factory but somehow you know where to go. Similarly if you buy a product of Shell and want to ask a question about it, You search local Shell corporate office in

    1 - Yellow pages
    2 - phone a freind
    3 - Google it.

    If you are buying an oil like Liqui Moly or Profi then they should apply their own sticker somewhere on the container as proof of authorised import - (same concept as factory warranty TV or khaipya maal TV)

    Do the rest yourself.

    For knowing about oil group base - do not expect a primary school answer here - you can pull out the "technical data sheet" of the product as they are public and read them to understand it

    for starters heres a very very simple first step to understand oil base groups

    Understanding the Differences in Base Oil Groups
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    @Xulfiqar can you take a look at my last post?

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    @Xulfiqar can you take a look at my last post?

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    Quote Originally Posted by shuja11 View Post
    Sir i dont feel good about my car if it has older grade oil. i also think 10-30 or 5-30 is well suited for my car. SG n SH i think will not be available here. im using SN 10-30 which as per your recommendation is very fancy. Right?

    Total Oils in Pakistan - Restitution.aspx
    Shell Oils in Pakistan - The Shell Helix range of car oils - Shell Pakistan
    Zic Oils in Pakistan - Zic Oil Pakistan
    Toyota Oils in Pakistan - Lubricants | Toyota Indus
    Liqui Moly Oils in Pakistan - ~~: Liqui Moly Pakistan :~~

    let me know which would u choose.
    SH and SG oils are available, the caltex havoline motor oil is SH I believe. Engine oil type has nothing to do with how you feel about the engine with old spec oil. If its specced for it then no problems.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    any paper media filter will blowout immediately on dry start, Its literally printed on good branded filters too. Its your choice if you dont want to bother -

    But if you dont know what it does - then a little hint is that the hydraulic blowout tears a hole in the filter media which means that the filter is now as good as NO FILTER. Filter canisters with capacities of more than 1 litre require this as mandatory otherwise the engine can suffer a serious dry condition. In those engines the filter is literally filled with oil not just soaked.

    Explanation - soaking the media paper is easy, pour a little oil in the filter and slosh it around, this wets the paper - this poured oil will not come out if you turn the filter upside down for a moment.

    My comment of "fill it up" was meant for the engine - not the filter.

    btw - go smack that MB mechanic
    Xulfiqar bhai, last time I got my civics oil changed and forgot to fill up the filter with oil. Just got it installed dry. It has been 700 kms after the oil change. Should I get the filter replaced only or get both the oil and filter replaced???

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    Quote Originally Posted by hassaaniqbal92 View Post
    Xulfiqar bhai, last time I got my civics oil changed and forgot to fill up the filter with oil. Just got it installed dry. It has been 700 kms after the oil change. Should I get the filter replaced only or get both the oil and filter replaced???
    @Xulfiqar bhai plz guide

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