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Thread: Best Engine Oil for Toyota Belta 1.0 2010 1KR-FE

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    Question Best Engine Oil for Toyota Belta 1.0 2010 1KR-FE

    AA,

    I have recently bought Toyota Belta 1.0L. It came with original engine oil which was in reasonable state but I still changed it to ZIC A+ (as I always used ZIC A+ in my Vitz for last 4 years). Since then I am not satisfied with engine's noise and feels engine is not running so smooth....

    So I would appreciate if you guyz could suggest me some other oil ... howz the original Toyota Engine oil ? Is it better in quality than others available in market like Shell, Caltex etc ?

    And one more thing I read somewhere online that for Belta 5/20 Engine oil is used and I have read somewhere that 5W/40 is more suitable oil in pakistan conditions, so can I use 5w/40 in car which says to use 5W/20 ?

    Thanks in advance for your expert opinions

    Maverick

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    Quote Originally Posted by Maverickz View Post
    AA,

    I have recently bought Toyota Belta 1.0L. It came with original engine oil which was in reasonable state but I still changed it to ZIC A+ (as I always used ZIC A+ in my Vitz for last 4 years). Since then I am not satisfied with engine's noise and feels engine is not running so smooth....

    So I would appreciate if you guyz could suggest me some other oil ... howz the original Toyota Engine oil ? Is it better in quality than others available in market like Shell, Caltex etc ?

    And one more thing I read somewhere online that for Belta 5/20 Engine oil is used and I have read somewhere that 5W/40 is more suitable oil in pakistan conditions, so can I use 5w/40 in car which says to use 5W/20 ?

    Thanks in advance for your expert opinions

    Maverick
    i love belta becuase of its cvt transmission and good interior. Very very fuel efficient car.
    How much driven & model?
    Does she giving the same sound that you were getting from the vitz? Or its cool?

    Just forget all the oils that came with it when you bought it. Have to refresh the gear n engine oil for sure.
    No Guts, No Glory.

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    Synthetics are for new engines up to 70k kms then you have to shift to thicker oil. Your car was running on 20 50 may be that's y it ws silent. I'll suggest use Ceratec which will fill the gaps bw rings n pistons and use mineral oil your engine will be silent again

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    an oil with rating 5W-30 is Good for 1KR-FE engine - MORE HERE
    - www.crackwheels.com - A skilled Dictator is much more beneficial to Country......than a Democracy of Ignorant people

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    Name:  ImageUploadedByTapatalk1385291555.880365.jpg
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    To make it simple as brother @capsat said


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    Quote Originally Posted by capsat View Post
    an oil with rating 5W-30 is Good for 1KR-FE engine - MORE HERE
    if engine is driven less than 70k and is in 10/10 condition, then 5/30 oil is ok.
    If more or less 100k, then 5/40 will be perfect.
    Presently best synthetic oils are available in 5/40. Go for

    volvoline 5/40
    LM synthoil 5/40
    ptt.performa 5/40
    kixx 5/40 tin pack

    all these oils would be perfect.

    And the most most important is the GEAR OIL. It has to be fully synthetic CVT.
    Presently the outstanding quality in cvt oil is of Liqui Moly. Price is rs. 1750/liter. But its changing interval is 100k. Belta needs 4L gear oil.

    5/40 synthetic engine oil
    and
    cvt gear oil

    would be the super perfect combination to obtain the best mileage within city and on high ways.
    No Guts, No Glory.

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    Quote Originally Posted by GoodMan7 View Post
    if engine is driven less than 70k and is in 10/10 condition, then 5/30 oil is ok.
    If more or less 100k, then 5/40 will be perfect.
    Presently best synthetic oils are available in 5/40. Go for

    volvoline 5/40
    LM synthoil 5/40
    ptt.performa 5/40
    kixx 5/40 tin pack

    all these oils would be perfect.

    And the most most important is the GEAR OIL. It has to be fully synthetic CVT.
    Presently the outstanding quality in cvt oil is of Liqui Moly. Price is rs. 1750/liter. But its changing interval is 100k. Belta needs 4L gear oil.

    5/40 synthetic engine oil
    and
    cvt gear oil

    would be the super perfect combination to obtain the best mileage within city and on high ways.
    My car's milage is 24K and engine is in good condition but its bit nosier than Vitz ( someone said its because Belta is 3 cylinder whereas Vitz was 4 cylinder ) . But one thing which disturbs me is engine roars when I am on 1st or 2nd gear then on 3rd or 4th it smooths down.

    I am not sure which viscosity the original engine oil was , i am assuming it was genuine Toyota Engine Oil.

    And now I am using ZIC A+... and I am not satisfied with it.

    So again which oil should I use
    20w/50 ( In Lahore we dont get below -7C in winter)
    5W/40
    5W/30

    And importantly of which brand ?

    Thanks,
    Maverick

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    Quote Originally Posted by Maverickz View Post
    My car's milage is 24K and engine is in good condition but its bit nosier than Vitz ( someone said its because Belta is 3 cylinder whereas Vitz was 4 cylinder ) . But one thing which disturbs me is engine roars when I am on 1st or 2nd gear then on 3rd or 4th it smooths down.

    I am not sure which viscosity the original engine oil was , i am assuming it was genuine Toyota Engine Oil.

    And now I am using ZIC A+... and I am not satisfied with it.

    So again which oil should I use
    20w/50 ( In Lahore we dont get below -7C in winter)
    5W/40
    5W/30

    And importantly of which brand ?

    Thanks,
    Maverick
    belta, vitz n pass comes in 1000cc n 1300cc also.
    1kr-fe is 1000cc and 3-cylinders.

    for the general info about your car, plz fully read this topic
    Re: Toyota Belta Owners' & Fans' Club!


    The noise in 1st n 2nd gear does not seems because of oil. If its because of oil, then 3rd & 4th gear also cannot be so comfortable.

    Two possibilities can be
    1. The rubber mont of engines are already loosen. (better to consult with toyota)

    2. Suspension nuts are bit loosen.


    Firstly, its better to go to any oil shop who has lifting rank and can lift the car up.
    Ask gentlman to "tighten up" all kinds of nutts or bolts that he can see at the downside. Am sure some nutts will be bit loose.
    (it happened with passo also. I just gave rs. 50 to the mechanic and he tighten up all the nutts n bolts very. And car was as smooth.as silk).

    Now, as the engine is only 24k ran, means its almost brand new. So it would be better to use the fully synthetic oils. These are bit expensive, but time interval is very long and these are very very good for engine's health.
    If i have belta, i never feed zic a+.

    depending upon your pocket, my revised suggestions go as follows

    LM 0/30, outclass super dopper high class oil. Changing interval can be 12~14k.

    LM 0/40, outclass super dopper high class oil. Changing interval can be 12~14k.


    LM 0/20, outclass super dopper high class oil. Changing interval can be 12~14k.

    Ptt performa 0/40.

    synthoil 5/40

    zic xq 5/40

    GEAR OIL
    only n only LM's CVT oil. Rs. 1800/liter.
    Change interval is 100k for gear oil.
    No Guts, No Glory.

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    Also, 20/50 is purely mineral oil and hence never consider to it till the car is driven 150k or over.
    Feeding synthetic oils to car increase its life and keeps engine healthy n happy.
    No Guts, No Glory.

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    I kr fe is very noisy if compared to old model vitz

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    Almost all newer technology VVTi engines give good performance on low viscosity oils. Use Shell Helix HX7 5W-30 for ur vehicle.

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    Quote Originally Posted by GoodMan7 View Post
    belta, vitz n pass comes in 1000cc n 1300cc also.
    1kr-fe is 1000cc and 3-cylinders.

    for the general info about your car, plz fully read this topic
    Re: Toyota Belta Owners' & Fans' Club!


    The noise in 1st n 2nd gear does not seems because of oil. If its because of oil, then 3rd & 4th gear also cannot be so comfortable.

    Two possibilities can be
    1. The rubber mont of engines are already loosen. (better to consult with toyota)

    2. Suspension nuts are bit loosen.


    Firstly, its better to go to any oil shop who has lifting rank and can lift the car up.
    Ask gentlman to "tighten up" all kinds of nutts or bolts that he can see at the downside. Am sure some nutts will be bit loose.
    (it happened with passo also. I just gave rs. 50 to the mechanic and he tighten up all the nutts n bolts very. And car was as smooth.as silk).

    Now, as the engine is only 24k ran, means its almost brand new. So it would be better to use the fully synthetic oils. These are bit expensive, but time interval is very long and these are very very good for engine's health.
    If i have belta, i never feed zic a+.

    depending upon your pocket, my revised suggestions go as follows

    LM 0/30, outclass super dopper high class oil. Changing interval can be 12~14k.

    LM 0/40, outclass super dopper high class oil. Changing interval can be 12~14k.


    LM 0/20, outclass super dopper high class oil. Changing interval can be 12~14k.

    Ptt performa 0/40.

    synthoil 5/40

    zic xq 5/40

    GEAR OIL
    only n only LM's CVT oil. Rs. 1800/liter.
    Change interval is 100k for gear oil.
    Ok thanks a lot for your valuable suggestion.

    Just for my knowledge , In other thread u suggested to use 5W/40 according to Pak weather so in which conditions one should use 0/30 and 5W/40 ?

    And in lahore from where can I get genuine LM oil and in what price range ?

    Thanks,
    Maverick

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    Quote Originally Posted by Maverickz View Post
    Ok thanks a lot for your valuable suggestion.

    Just for my knowledge , In other thread u suggested to use 5W/40 according to Pak weather so in which conditions one should use 0/30 and 5W/40 ?

    And in lahore from where can I get genuine LM oil and in what price range ?

    Thanks,
    Maverick
    seach my threads with subjects
    MAIN DISTRIBUTOR OF LIQUI MOLY IN LAHORE
    and
    IMPORTED OILS & PRICES

    0/30 & 5/40, both are very high grade oils and suitable for all climates in lahore.

    Many people are using zic a+ 0/20 in Pak. So just forget these numbers & go for it.
    No Guts, No Glory.

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    Quote Originally Posted by GoodMan7 View Post
    seach my threads with subjects
    MAIN DISTRIBUTOR OF LIQUI MOLY IN LAHORE
    and
    IMPORTED OILS & PRICES

    0/30 & 5/40, both are very high grade oils and suitable for all climates in lahore.

    Many people are using zic a+ 0/20 in Pak. So just forget these numbers & go for it.
    Ok , I got the location of LM from your other thread.

    The pakistani site of LM is crap... they have same description for their every product ( copy-paste stuff)

    I have one more question as you may know , like all engines are not made for High Octane patrol ( for Belta it is recommended to use normal/regular octane patrol ) is it also true for engine oils as well ?

    By going through the German LM site (LIQUI MOLY - Motor Oils, Additives, Car Care - Products - Fully Synthetic) it seems these oils are really made for high end vehicles like Porsche , Ferrari etc.

    So my 'little' 1000cc Belta would be 'ok' to have such high end Engine Oil ?

    Thanks,Maverick

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    Quote Originally Posted by Maverickz View Post
    Ok , I got the location of LM from your other thread.

    The pakistani site of LM is crap... they have same description for their every product ( copy-paste stuff)

    I have one more question as you may know , like all engines are not made for High Octane patrol ( for Belta it is recommended to use normal/regular octane patrol ) is it also true for engine oils as well ?

    By going through the German LM site (LIQUI MOLY - Motor Oils, Additives, Car Care - Products - Fully Synthetic) it seems these oils are really made for high end vehicles like Porsche , Ferrari etc.

    So my 'little' 1000cc Belta would be 'ok' to have such high end Engine Oil ?

    Thanks,Maverick
    all these superb quality oils are made for cars, dear. But quantity of engine oils decides the suitability of the mileage. In other words, the size of the engine.
    For example, lets consider the oil 5/40 which is presently enormously popular.

    For 660cc cars, 5k mileage/change interval is ok.
    For 1000cc, can drive upto 8~10k depending upon the engine health.
    For 1300cc, can drive upto 10~12k.
    For 2000cc, can drive upto 10~14k.
    For 3000~5000cc, can drive upto 15~20k.
    The other countries who have nice atmospher n roads, these mileages can be even further increase.

    and these fully synethetic oils do well for the new engines mostly.

    try.
    No Guts, No Glory.

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    Dont go about speaking what you dont know, you are telling people to use an oil just on its thickness, then also claiming to use it for extended intervals without taking into consideration the sump size, the engine run charecteristics, the build spec etc.

    mild and economy engines like the ones you use are already specified from the factory, dont try to play with it unless you 100% know what you are doing.

    a little insight - mobil1 made an advertisement once using a BMW 530 and one mercedes E320 - they drove them on dynos for 1,000,000 kms and then tore down the engines to check them. The advertisement said they found everything to be nearly new.

    does that mean that you can run the same 5 litres of oil for 1 million kms? NO

    The advertisement also said in fine print that the factory oil change intervals were followed.

    hence,

    ONE oil can be specified to run 20,000 kms on one certain car and be different on another. Do not mix stuff up. e.g. if you use LM engine oil in a VW aircooled engine with 2.5 litres sump and try to run it for 20,000 kms your engine will be very very dead at the 20,000 kms because that engine uses a tiny sump, no oil filter, flat tappet cam and solid followers.
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    My writtings are usually the sum of the discussions that we made for hours every day with the people having different insights. Sometimes we really laugh that how people are changing oils so frequently without even knowing ieither these should.change or not. And many people try to run the mineral oils for the extended intervals.
    My friend using zic xq in santro and changing with abnormally extended intervals. And guess what, when the oil comes out, its still in useable condition.
    Another using PTT Performa 0/40 in vitz, and pretty surprized with extra mileage.
    Similarly hundreds of other examples comes from the daily experience.
    The JDMs are far advanced and engines very nicely use engine oils.and gives nice averages.
    Ok, let me know one thing. My first causin have manual belta 1300 cc (2006 german model, over 180k drove) giving fuel average as 16km/l within city with synthetic oils.
    Our company driver has new xli (same vvti engine) and it gives average 9~10km/l.
    Same.engines and.same sumps. Why so big.difference in mileage?
    No Guts, No Glory.

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    now are these discussions from a scientific background with some proper oil analysis done or just brand favoritism?

    You say that your freinds santro has extended service intervals but the oil is still usable, how did you deduce its usable? did you do an oil analysis on it?

    I dont know where everyone got the notion that JAY DEE EMM orphan kei and hatch cars are the gift of God with technology more advanced than a McDonell Douglas F15.

    It does not - the physics are the same.

    For maximum fuel efficiency you need the thinnest possible oil, thats why modern toyota small engines now specify 0w20 oil in their engines to satisfy stringent requirements of fuel economy. Using a hot 40 or 50 oil in it will severly reduce economy as it increases drag in the engine - you may think the little oil pump does not suck up horsepower - it seriously does as its a hydraulic pump, but in this case we need a good volume to properly lube and cool the engine, using a thicker oil will increase this drag - up the pressure which automatically reduces volume which is bad for these small tight clearance engines with friction reducing pistons and liners but really good for old type engines most common in Pakistan which have "lathe masheen ustaad clearances" and junk steel liners with chinese cast pistons and imbalanced crank.

    DO NOT go on any other specification than the manufacturer unless you know exactly 100% scientifically what you are doing.

    Another problem that Ive seen people completely ignoring.

    Old tappet rocker engines have flat cam lobes that rub on the rockers to open the valves, this is a very very high pressure point which requires high zddp content in the oil, The old SG, SH, SJ oils had that a lot - and most diesel oils also do.

    The problem is that high zddp content is a killer of cat converters. As time went by most performance specifications of API reduced it to keep up with smog laws - using a modern oil in such an old engine really does kill the cam which has been documented a lot.
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    About JDMs,
    One thing I certainly believe and repeatedly mentioned in my previous posts also, that, "Origin Does matter".
    I've seen millions of branded cars (BMW, Chrysler, Audi, Buick, Peageot, etc.) in China. China never allows to run imported cars in China or will impose sky high taxes & dutes. Instead they invite international companies to come in China and start producing the same products here.
    Now, when we compare these cars with European made cars, then there is "big difference in the quality & durability".
    Here you can say, the engines & technologies are same, but I can firmly say that though these things are same, but still the origin matters a lot.
    Lets weight a same model two cars of BMW. One is made in China and other in Germany or UK. I can bet that there will be ~10% weight difference (European use good materials to add safety & comfort). But Chinese cars,, far behind.

    Similarly, the 2nd hand Jdms in Pakistan are at-least produced in Japan. Hence they are more comfortable from many aspects than PDMs. Though the engines & technologies are same, but still JDMs performance is far ahead than PDM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    Dont go about speaking what you dont know, you are telling people to use an oil just on its thickness, then also claiming to use it for extended intervals without taking into consideration the sump size, the engine run charecteristics, the build spec etc.

    mild and economy engines like the ones you use are already specified from the factory, dont try to play with it unless you 100% know what you are doing.

    a little insight - mobil1 made an advertisement once using a BMW 530 and one mercedes E320 - they drove them on dynos for 1,000,000 kms and then tore down the engines to check them. The advertisement said they found everything to be nearly new.

    does that mean that you can run the same 5 litres of oil for 1 million kms? NO

    The advertisement also said in fine print that the factory oil change intervals were followed.

    hence,

    ONE oil can be specified to run 20,000 kms on one certain car and be different on another. Do not mix stuff up. e.g. if you use LM engine oil in a VW aircooled engine with 2.5 litres sump and try to run it for 20,000 kms your engine will be very very dead at the 20,000 kms because that engine uses a tiny sump, no oil filter, flat tappet cam and solid followers.
    In your very recent posts, you mentioned that trucks who's sumps are big enough upto 21~23 liter oil can go driving up 100K without oil change.

    Its not an argument to proof someone right or wrong about the recommended change intervals, but just am using it as an additional supporting reference to my post.

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