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Thread: Best Engine Oil for Toyota Belta 1.0 2010 1KR-FE

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    Question Best Engine Oil for Toyota Belta 1.0 2010 1KR-FE

    AA,

    I have recently bought Toyota Belta 1.0L. It came with original engine oil which was in reasonable state but I still changed it to ZIC A+ (as I always used ZIC A+ in my Vitz for last 4 years). Since then I am not satisfied with engine's noise and feels engine is not running so smooth....

    So I would appreciate if you guyz could suggest me some other oil ... howz the original Toyota Engine oil ? Is it better in quality than others available in market like Shell, Caltex etc ?

    And one more thing I read somewhere online that for Belta 5/20 Engine oil is used and I have read somewhere that 5W/40 is more suitable oil in pakistan conditions, so can I use 5w/40 in car which says to use 5W/20 ?

    Thanks in advance for your expert opinions

    Maverick

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    Quote Originally Posted by SER_GTR View Post
    I Remind Of Few Engines I Saw From JAAY DEE EMM Imports HAlf CUT In Shershah Back 3 years AGO As Well As Phycially Inspecting 4.5 Grade Vitz 1SZ-FE In Showroom Condition......!!


    The Engines Looks Like Dipped In Chocolate And COFFEE Addict From Inside.....The LONG Oil Change Interval Stuff Just Gets Over TOO MUCH As They Have No Time For That........I Have Seen Many Cars And Engines In Same Condition Which Are Less Than 50k Driven.....!!
    hundreds of jdm came in pak that were infected in tsunami. Those cars were really in miserable conditions and people got big losses after buying them.
    This is also true that some people even in japan dont bother to change oils timely.
    But even then, many cars came in good condition and are 5 times more luxurious than pdms from every aspect (especially the suspension system).

    the time is not gone far when made in japan was considered as the symbol of durability and permanence.
    And i still feel the same while driving jdm. All what we need to feed them is the right set of oils. These cars do well on synthetic oils while pdm are lover of mineral oils. Here new cars like mehran, bolan, baleno, alto, etc. are recommended to use 10/40 as min viscosity. And this concept of making such cars is pathetic.
    No Guts, No Glory.

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    Quote Originally Posted by SER_GTR View Post
    Our People's Thought Of COSTLY Is Always BETTER Never Gets Changed...!!

    For Some Reason.....They JUST CONSIDER A COSTLY OIL BEST For Even Their OLD Motors And Some Just Believe On LONG CHANGE Interval Story's Forgotten The Place where They Drive..>Weather Condition...Environmental Dust And Fuel........!!
    dear sir. I repectfully disagree. Because its not about the feeding expensive oils to the cars. No.
    It is about knowing the far better performance & durable oils are available. I-e synthetic oils. And synthetic oils are expensive.

    Now lets go 15years back. How many of us were using synthetic oils? Perhaps less then 1%.
    Now this percentage has been significantly increased and this is only because of awareness about the synthetic oils.
    Hence its not always about spending money.
    No Guts, No Glory.

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    what you guys are not taking into consideration is that unless your engine is specced for synthetic oil dont use it, you will not gain any advantage from doing such.

    Furthermore - there are literally millions of people in the world who buy new cars and dont take care of them at all, e.g. if oil change is specced for 5000 kms, they might even not do it for 15000 because they either forget or dont have time. When these cars get old and become a big bill for repairs they get sold and eventually auctioned at such japanese export sites.

    You the buyer buys it.

    anyway - I can show you a military spec engine oil that is extremely expensive and is for use in extreme high stress diesel engines, it does not mean you can pour it in your old Toyota 2C and it will become an elixir from the mechanical gods. The toyota 2C is not meant for it in any sort of environment.
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    Quote Originally Posted by GoodMan7 View Post
    hundreds of jdm came in pak that were infected in tsunami. Those cars were really in miserable conditions and people got big losses after buying them.
    This is also true that some people even in japan dont bother to change oils timely.
    But even then, many cars came in good condition and are 5 times more luxurious than pdms from every aspect (especially the suspension system).

    the time is not gone far when made in japan was considered as the symbol of durability and permanence.
    And i still feel the same while driving jdm. All what we need to feed them is the right set of oils. These cars do well on synthetic oils while pdm are lover of mineral oils. Here new cars like mehran, bolan, baleno, alto, etc. are recommended to use 10/40 as min viscosity. And this concept of making such cars is pathetic.

    I Am Talking Before Tsunami....!!!!
    TOYOTA Sprinter 86- AE80 DOHC 20v'D TOYOTA Corolla 98- AE101 4AFE 16v

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    Quote Originally Posted by GoodMan7 View Post
    dear sir. I repectfully disagree. Because its not about the feeding expensive oils to the cars. No.
    It is about knowing the far better performance & durable oils are available. I-e synthetic oils. And synthetic oils are expensive.

    Now lets go 15years back. How many of us were using synthetic oils? Perhaps less then 1%.
    Now this percentage has been significantly increased and this is only because of awareness about the synthetic oils.
    Hence its not always about spending money.
    As I Said.....Expensive Is Not ALWAYS Better.....The Factory Spec Recommendation Is MORE Than Enough To Be Followed...! Whatever Oil Dealers And Sellers Says Is Totally For Their Own Sake.......!!!

    If The Engine Is Designed And Told To Be Use On Specified Grade And Type....WHy Just DENY That And Use Your OWN Science And Logics.....

    I Have Been Using Them And Have NO Complains What So Ever From YEARS ....My Friend Did That EXTRA Stuff And He End Up Ruining His Big END Bearings Within A MONTH....!! It Was A High Revving Motor And He Use Full Synthetic Thin Viscosity Not Recommended.....He Pay The PRICE BIG Time....!!

    So Don't Follow Factory SPECs And Use Your OWN Logic And You Will RUIN Things SOON....!!!
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    @GoodMan7
    What if someone comes to you with a brand new 1.3 litre mazda rx8 and asks you to recommend engine oil for his *brand new car*.
    What will you tell him?

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    Quote Originally Posted by SER_GTR View Post
    As I Said.....Expensive Is Not ALWAYS Better.....The Factory Spec Recommendation Is MORE Than Enough To Be Followed...! Whatever Oil Dealers And Sellers Says Is Totally For Their Own Sake.......!!!

    If The Engine Is Designed And Told To Be Use On Specified Grade And Type....WHy Just DENY That And Use Your OWN Science And Logics.....

    I Have Been Using Them And Have NO Complains What So Ever From YEARS ....My Friend Did That EXTRA Stuff And He End Up Ruining His Big END Bearings Within A MONTH....!! It Was A High Revving Motor And He Use Full Synthetic Thin Viscosity Not Recommended.....He Pay The PRICE BIG Time....!!

    So Don't Follow Factory SPECs And Use Your OWN Logic And You Will RUIN Things SOON....!!!
    Normally the manuals recommends thin oils (except Suzuki cars) and people blindly start pouring Zic A+ 5/20, Shell X7 5/30, etc. etc.
    But if I have PDM and start using Zic A+, then I cannot still use this oil till the car is over 70K driven in Pak. Or, lets consider from another way. I just buy 2nd hand PDM driven 230K and its manual says use 5/30 oil. Then still it will be wise to use that recommended oil in the car who has already driven 230K in Pak? Never !! So here comes our common sense to use and we have to choose the oil according to the engine condition, covered mileage, etc..

    Manuals (in Pak. for Pak. Cars) never says to pour fully synthetic oils in the cars. Because they know very well that these oils are far superior than even the new PDMs.
    And since the JDMs are in the market, the synthetic oils are getting popular. Incredible sales has been recorded for LM, Mobil1, PTT Performa, KIXX, ZIC and other companies who brought such fine quality oils. If JDMs are not here, 99% people still be using 20/50 oil in all types of cars for sure.

    If PDM manual says to pour 5/30 oil (which is NOT fully synthetic oil), we can fully guarantee to feed 5/40 fully synthetic oil for better results.

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    Quote Originally Posted by omarabdullah022 View Post
    @GoodMan7
    What if someone comes to you with a brand new 1.3 litre mazda rx8 and asks you to recommend engine oil for his *brand new car*.
    What will you tell him?
    Sports car usually needs grades like 5/50 or 10/50 or 10/60
    So before pouring new oil we must ask him which one he is already using before and then will make the more precise suggestion for him according to engine's condition, covered mileage and ofcoarse his driving habbit (for racer cars). LOL.

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    Quote Originally Posted by GoodMan7 View Post
    Sports car usually needs grades like 5/50 or 10/50 or 10/60
    So before pouring new oil we must ask him which one he is already using before and then will make the more precise suggestion for him according to engine's condition, covered mileage and ofcoarse his driving habbit (for racer cars). LOL.
    Aha!
    The mazda rx8 has a rotary engine which uses 20w-50 mineral oil.

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    Quote Originally Posted by omarabdullah022 View Post
    Aha!
    The mazda rx8 has a rotary engine which uses 20w-50 mineral oil.
    thanks for the informations.
    I knew you already have such kind of typical answer because of which you ask this particular questions.
    cheers.

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    The Matter Remains Same...!!

    Those SUPERIOR Oils Are Not For Motors Built So That's Why Never Recommended !!

    For Me Changing A Good Quality 20w-50 Or 10w-40 On Every 5k Km Is Better Than Changing Any Superior Oil After 10-12k KM
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    Name:  ImageUploadedByTapatalk1385723546.001711.jpg
Views: 1295
Size:  73.9 KB
    This pic is from 1krfe engine manual

    Now For The Love of GoD just explain simply for all noobs DafQ should we use in belta/vitz i.e brand name , grade and interval change
    @SER_GTR, @GoodMan7 @Xulfiqar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Docjunaid View Post
    Name:  ImageUploadedByTapatalk1385723546.001711.jpg
Views: 1295
Size:  73.9 KB
    This pic is from 1krfe engine manual

    Now For The Love of GoD just explain simply for all noobs DafQ should we use in belta/vitz i.e brand name , grade and interval change


    Sent from my 4S using Tapatalk
    I suppose if I have this Belta, 24K driven with CVT Transmission. (wow.. I love this car really).
    I will certainly go for 0/40 or at-least at-least 5/40, with fully synthetic CVT gear oil. And am sure it will give min. 15km/l average within city.
    That’s all.

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    You Can Simply Go For 10w-40 Caltex Havoline And Change That Thing Around 5k Km With Oil Filter .............!!

    Keeping In Mind The Weather Condition.....IT Matters AlOT ...... I Am Considering In Winters Its Around 0 Degrees Celcius And Summers Hit Around 40-42...!!

    Best Combo For All Season....!!
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    Quote Originally Posted by SER_GTR View Post
    You Can Simply Go For 10w-40 Caltex Havoline And Change That Thing Around 5k Km With Oil Filter .............!!

    Keeping In Mind The Weather Condition.....IT Matters AlOT ...... I Am Considering In Winters Its Around 0 Degrees Celcius And Summers Hit Around 40-42...!!

    Best Combo For All Season....!!
    negative sir.
    the suggestion of using the 10/40
    and also
    the temperature indications.

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    What You Are Saying Is IT WON't Simply WORK ????

    Or Just 0/40 Or 5-35 Will WORK????? Is It That So...

    Kindly EXPLAIN Then WHY It Won't Work
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    Damn you goodman, you're a tough head
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    Quote Originally Posted by SER_GTR View Post
    What You Are Saying Is IT WON't Simply WORK ????

    Or Just 0/40 Or 5-35 Will WORK????? Is It That So...

    Kindly EXPLAIN Then WHY It Won't Work
    even if someone will pour c-oil in the engine, even then it will work.
    But thicker oils does no good in the cars and neiter the engine is happy with them.
    Synthetic oils provide outclass and more long lasting lubrication than the thicker oils. So its not wise to feed the new cars with thicker oils like 20/50 or 10/40.

    Example,
    i have new car and i feed it 20/50. I will get average like 10km/l and change intervals would be 4~5k max.
    Keep using this oil and i have to start going workshop before 100k.

    I feed it 10/40. I will get 11km/l and change interval would be 5k max.
    Keep using this oil and i will take my car to workshop to see mechanic on/before 120/130k.



    I feed it zic a+ (5/20) or similar grade oil. I will get 12km/l and change interval would be 5k.
    Keep using this oil and i will take my car to workshop to see mechanic on/before 170/180k.



    Now i feed my car with fully synthetic oils like 0/40, 0/30, 5/40, etc. I will get 14~15Km/l and change intervals would be 8~10k.
    After driving car 200k, its engine will be healthy and young to go another 100k easily.
    No Guts, No Glory.

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    Quote Originally Posted by syncview View Post
    Damn you goodman, you're a tough head
    engine oils has mainly 4 categories (racing cars technologies not included).

    Fully synthetic
    semi synthetic
    partially synthetic (or with synthetic formula etc.)
    mineral oils.

    Increase your study and awareness before pointing others.
    Thanks.
    No Guts, No Glory.

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    Quote Originally Posted by GoodMan7 View Post
    engine oils has mainly 4 categories (racing cars technologies not included).

    Fully synthetic
    semi synthetic
    partially synthetic (or with synthetic formula etc.)
    mineral oils.

    Increase your study and awareness before pointing others.
    Thanks.
    Indeed, indeed.
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