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Thread: Best Engine Oil for Toyota Belta 1.0 2010 1KR-FE

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    Question Best Engine Oil for Toyota Belta 1.0 2010 1KR-FE

    AA,

    I have recently bought Toyota Belta 1.0L. It came with original engine oil which was in reasonable state but I still changed it to ZIC A+ (as I always used ZIC A+ in my Vitz for last 4 years). Since then I am not satisfied with engine's noise and feels engine is not running so smooth....

    So I would appreciate if you guyz could suggest me some other oil ... howz the original Toyota Engine oil ? Is it better in quality than others available in market like Shell, Caltex etc ?

    And one more thing I read somewhere online that for Belta 5/20 Engine oil is used and I have read somewhere that 5W/40 is more suitable oil in pakistan conditions, so can I use 5w/40 in car which says to use 5W/20 ?

    Thanks in advance for your expert opinions

    Maverick

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    Quote Originally Posted by Maverickz View Post
    @GoogdMan7 and @Xulfiqar
    If I have to pick between Mobil1 0W-40 and Liqui Moil 5W-40 which one should I pick for 1KR-FE engine ?

    And are these oils SAE complaint ?

    BTW the owner of oil shop from where I get my car's oil change , according to him Mobil1 is the best oil and then others are in this order
    1- Mobil1
    2-Kixx
    3-Liqui Moil
    4-Performa

    Thanks,
    Maverick
    if i am in same condition, then my choice will go for liqui moly only and.buy it from liqui moly's majn distributor in lahore who is at muslim town.

    Just for the records (as i already mentioned many times in my post) that Mobil1 is being repacked here in Pak. The company who is packing this oil is MAL PAK. so it doesnot tap the deeper conscious to choose mobil1 because all the oils which are being repacked here in pak, are hard to believe their purity.
    Secondly, they are packing oils which are made in singapore.
    If they are packing mobil1 oil which is actually made in usa, then it was ok to compromise. But the oil which is produced in singapore, repacked in pak., and being sold here in pak wit usa tag, seems pretty odd (for me especially).

    Whereas, LM oils are directly imported from germany. And maybe very less people know that these are packed in germany in 4L bottle and these bottles with seals are coming to pak directly.
    Hence my wholy soly suggestions will go for liqui moly.

    5/40 grade oil name is "SYNTHOIL HI-TECH". PART NO. 2194. bottle is deep Purple color. Recommneded mileage is 15~20k, but ~10k would be very fine.
    No Guts, No Glory.

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    Quote Originally Posted by syncview View Post
    there are many different variants for the LM 5w-40, which one exactly are you talking about?
    Also get the same info for the mobil1 0w-40
    Liqui Moly Synthoil Hi-Tech Part no. 2194.
    No Guts, No Glory.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    a little question for goodman,

    if I give you a few oils to choose

    1 mobil1 0W40
    2 Shell Rotella/Rimula 5w40
    3 Castrol syntec GTX 5w30
    4 regular mineral 5w30 with SL API rating

    which would you choose to use in a mercedes benz E430 from 2002? and why?



    p.s. mercedes benz recommend an oil with a min viscosity of 12 cst at 100C and this engine uses a total of 4 cat converters, has roller tappet rockers and holds 9 litres of engine oil.
    one real example.
    In pak keeping mercedes car is exactly like keeping an elephant as pet. Every bit of it so expensive. But where is interest, then money doesn't matter much.

    a friend here having mercedes of C class having 2.8L automatic engine.
    We know its more than 30 years old model. But he is spending heck of money on it and still keeping since more than 20 years.

    Recently what happened, she start reducing oil. He changed many companies and tried different oils, but it was reducing. He was not interested to go to mechanic because he will hand him over a bill of min 30k for that.
    Anyway, upon our suggestion he used ptt performa 20/50 api sn grade oil. Then guess what, problem solved.
    After 4k, we changed the oil and it was still in good condition.
    Now, techanically no one can say that we did right to feed sn grade oil to 30years old mercedes. But we were confident that it will work and yes it did.
    No Guts, No Glory.

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    Im not discussing ownership cost, its not much expensive to own a benz, infact in some repairs its cheaper in the long run, but for some reason everyone in Pakistan wants to compare genuine repair parts with chinese POS repair parts.

    anyway

    you did not answer my question but simply blurted that SN 20w50 solved the problem - what mostly happened was that the thicker oil could not get get good flow and prevented burn off, which now comes to the question of what will you do if your engine starts to burn the thicker 20W50 oil?

    But for exact cause you need to know what engine it is and how to diagnose it too, as I said MB want a thicker viscosity for use in their engines, you used exactly that - (a bit over too), this is done because these are built to a bit looser spec but a big capacity oil pump and sump - normally on old MB their oil pressure bypass would open above 110 psi, which is phenomenal if compared to an average japanese engine which allows bypass at 75 psi.

    Anyway, keep on the learning curve, but dont try to advise what you are not fully sure of, it only takes ONE chance to ruin a good working engine.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Whats the price price for Valvoline 20w/40 or 20W/50 3L? Which shop is original distributor of LM, Valvoline and Mobil?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    Im not discussing ownership cost, its not much expensive to own a benz, infact in some repairs its cheaper in the long run, but for some reason everyone in Pakistan wants to compare genuine repair parts with chinese POS repair parts.

    anyway

    you did not answer my question but simply blurted that SN 20w50 solved the problem - what mostly happened was that the thicker oil could not get get good flow and prevented burn off, which now comes to the question of what will you do if your engine starts to burn the thicker 20W50 oil?

    But for exact cause you need to know what engine it is and how to diagnose it too, as I said MB want a thicker viscosity for use in their engines, you used exactly that - (a bit over too), this is done because these are built to a bit looser spec but a big capacity oil pump and sump - normally on old MB their oil pressure bypass would open above 110 psi, which is phenomenal if compared to an average japanese engine which allows bypass at 75 psi.

    Anyway, keep on the learning curve, but dont try to advise what you are not fully sure of, it only takes ONE chance to ruin a good working engine.
    Well, there is always something to learn from your posts. Thanks.
    That fella, has already tried Havoline 20/50 (even CNG & Petrol, both oils), Shell 20/50, Total 20/50, etc. All freaking local oils.
    When he came to us, firstly we already asked him about previous oils and then suggested to use PTT Perfoma 20/50 of SN Grade.
    We know technically this oil is not recommended for the older engines, but it worked well and car never reduce the oil again. So this guy using same oil since last more than 3.5 years and happy with the performance.

    Your question, that if engine start reducing the thicker oil too, then we'll advise to see the doctor (means mechanic). But if he doesn't...., then we will suggest to mix engine oil with "oil Treatment SDP (or also called STP)". This is pretty cheaper liquid for the older or heavy duty engines that produce lot of noise. It is recommended to use 10% STP with 90% Engine oil. And if problem is more, then upto 25% stp can be used.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    a little question for goodman,

    if I give you a few oils to choose

    1 mobil1 0W40
    2 Shell Rotella/Rimula 5w40
    3 Castrol syntec GTX 5w30
    4 regular mineral 5w30 with SL API rating

    which would you choose to use in a mercedes benz E430 from 2002? and why?



    p.s. mercedes benz recommend an oil with a min viscosity of 12 cst at 100C and this engine uses a total of 4 cat converters, has roller tappet rockers and holds 9 litres of engine oil.
    Zulfiqar, here is the technical answer to your question.

    For the engines who need min. viscosity of 12 CST at 100C, then SAE higher viscosity 40 is recommended.

    Actually SAE 30 is for those who need min. 9.3 CST at 100C and max. 12.5 cst at 100C
    Actually SAE 40 is for those who need min. 12.5 CST at 100C and max. 16.3 cst at 100C

    Now your car needs min. 12 CST at 100C. So using SAE 40 would be the perfect.
    And available oils with higher sae 40 are
    0/40
    5/40
    10/40
    15/40

    0/40 & 5/40 comes in fully synthetic range. So use these oils if need to go for longer intervals.
    10/40 & 15/40 are partially synthetic. So these can be used for short intervals.

    Now, my questions is, that how many of us know that our car's engine's need how much CST as minimum or maximum at 100C ?? Even in USA & Europe ??
    Perhaps only engineers.

    If someone come to us for change oil, and we tell them all above story about CST this & that, he will listen very carefully and once the story ends, he will tell... ok pour Havoline 20/50 this time and I will try your suggestion next time. And guess what, he will never ever come again.

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    Quote Originally Posted by GoodMan7 View Post
    Zulfiqar, here is the technical answer to your question.

    For the engines who need min. viscosity of 12 CST at 100C, then SAE higher viscosity 40 is recommended.

    Actually SAE 30 is for those who need min. 9.3 CST at 100C and max. 12.5 cst at 100C
    Actually SAE 40 is for those who need min. 12.5 CST at 100C and max. 16.3 cst at 100C

    Now your car needs min. 12 CST at 100C. So using SAE 40 would be the perfect.
    And available oils with higher sae 40 are
    0/40
    5/40
    10/40
    15/40

    0/40 & 5/40 comes in fully synthetic range. So use these oils if need to go for longer intervals.
    10/40 & 15/40 are partially synthetic. So these can be used for short intervals.

    Now, my questions is, that how many of us know that our car's engine's need how much CST as minimum or maximum at 100C ?? Even in USA & Europe ??
    Perhaps only engineers.

    If someone come to us for change oil, and we tell them all above story about CST this & that, he will listen very carefully and once the story ends, he will tell... ok pour Havoline 20/50 this time and I will try your suggestion next time. And guess what, he will never ever come again.
    This information is mentioned in the owners books for a reason - because the car is a machine and the operator is required to have its base knowledge on it. This also includes engine oils - in owner manuals of expensive machines such information is written - if not written then the viscosity chart is mentioned. If your customers are morons its not your job to educate them if they actually choose to be stupid.

    Anyway - your answer was pretty vanilla, but you did forget to identify the oil brand, meaning that most 15w40 oils are diesel spec which can be poison for modern petrol engines with cat converters, the zinc add pack can poison the cats, some 5w40 diesel oils are bad for lean burn petrol engines too like this one I mentioned.

    There was a reason I mentioned the brand names of the oils and not just the viscosity numbers.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by GoodMan7 View Post
    Well, there is always something to learn from your posts. Thanks.
    That fella, has already tried Havoline 20/50 (even CNG & Petrol, both oils), Shell 20/50, Total 20/50, etc. All freaking local oils.
    When he came to us, firstly we already asked him about previous oils and then suggested to use PTT Perfoma 20/50 of SN Grade.
    We know technically this oil is not recommended for the older engines, but it worked well and car never reduce the oil again. So this guy using same oil since last more than 3.5 years and happy with the performance.

    Your question, that if engine start reducing the thicker oil too, then we'll advise to see the doctor (means mechanic). But if he doesn't...., then we will suggest to mix engine oil with "oil Treatment SDP (or also called STP)". This is pretty cheaper liquid for the older or heavy duty engines that produce lot of noise. It is recommended to use 10% STP with 90% Engine oil. And if problem is more, then upto 25% stp can be used.
    thickening the oils is bad - when seen in a real test systems the crank journals really scratch up on startup on cold as the oil cannot be pumped fast enough
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    thickening the oils is bad - when seen in a real test systems the crank journals really scratch up on startup on cold as the oil cannot be pumped fast enough
    yes true. But here the engines of old busses (laries), Bedford trucks, Loaders (like Shahzor), etc. become so noisy because of improper maintains or wrong choice of oils. Hence people use STP to cool down its unnecessary noises. But they idle well before driving, hence its OK to use it.
    Also people pour this STP in Generators especially to bring their noise down.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    Anyway - your answer was pretty vanilla, but you did forget to identify the oil brand, meaning that most 15w40 oils are diesel spec which can be poison for modern petrol engines with cat converters, the zinc add pack can poison the cats, some 5w40 diesel oils are bad for lean burn petrol engines too like this one I mentioned.

    There was a reason I mentioned the brand names of the oils and not just the viscosity numbers.
    Feeling happy to receive your appreciation probably first time.
    However as long as 15/40 is concern, yes this viscosity is for diesel engines. But ZIC-M is still in the market and its for gasoline engines. We always recommend owners of Mehrans, Bolans, cultus, or alto, to use this oil before jumping to 20/50.

    ZIC-M lost its popularity in the market and company had big stocks. What they did, they sold their 15/40 oil to another company xyz and xyz packed this oil into new bottles and tag it as 20/50 with improved formula. Because we live in Pak.

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    Quote Originally Posted by GoodMan7 View Post
    if i am in same condition, then my choice will go for liqui moly only and.buy it from liqui moly's majn distributor in lahore who is at muslim town.

    Just for the records (as i already mentioned many times in my post) that Mobil1 is being repacked here in Pak. The company who is packing this oil is MAL PAK. so it doesnot tap the deeper conscious to choose mobil1 because all the oils which are being repacked here in pak, are hard to believe their purity.
    Secondly, they are packing oils which are made in singapore.
    If they are packing mobil1 oil which is actually made in usa, then it was ok to compromise. But the oil which is produced in singapore, repacked in pak., and being sold here in pak wit usa tag, seems pretty odd (for me especially).

    Whereas, LM oils are directly imported from germany. And maybe very less people know that these are packed in germany in 4L bottle and these bottles with seals are coming to pak directly.
    Hence my wholy soly suggestions will go for liqui moly.

    5/40 grade oil name is "SYNTHOIL HI-TECH". PART NO. 2194. bottle is deep Purple color. Recommneded mileage is 15~20k, but ~10k would be very fine.
    Finally I got my car's oil changed yesterday and I bought LM 5W-40 ( 0W-40 wasn't available) from LM's Muslim Town franchise. And I am already feeling the difference thanks @GoodMan7 for your advice.

    I have also changed the oil filter and bought the genuine Toyota oil filter (Rs. 880) .
    @GoodMan7 I have bought LM's Octane Booster too which you mentioned in your other thread. Do I need to pour it after filling the patrol tank or before filling the tank ?

    And one more thing that LM's shop owner was saying the change interval of LM 5W-40 is 20K which seems to be ridiculous. So what do you think when do I do the next oil change ?

    Thanks,
    Maverick

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    Quote Originally Posted by Maverickz View Post
    Finally I got my car's oil changed yesterday and I bought LM 5W-40 ( 0W-40 wasn't available) from LM's Muslim Town franchise. And I am already feeling the difference thanks @GoodMan7 for your advice.

    I have also changed the oil filter and bought the genuine Toyota oil filter (Rs. 880) .
    @GoodMan7 I have bought LM's Octane Booster too which you mentioned in your other thread. Do I need to pour it after filling the patrol tank or before filling the tank ?

    And one more thing that LM's shop owner was saying the change interval of LM 5W-40 is 20K which seems to be ridiculous. So what do you think when do I do the next oil change ?

    Thanks,
    Maverick
    You are welcome brother. Perhaps you are the first one here on PW who went as per my suggestion. Am fairly pleased for it. Perhaps it would be the best thread ending up properly.

    For oil filter change, OMG..... please never go to Toyota again. Leepon's filters are best and price is only Rs. 260~270. So next time, try for leepon but original Malaysian one.
    As an experiment, you can buy 1 leepon filter, open its top and take out the filter paper inside to check the quality and compare it with Toyota's. I can literally say, there will be difference as size of mountain.

    For Octane booster, a word of wise. Plz don't use it in your new Belta. I've tried it in my pass 1kr-fe (same engine as belta) and can hear bit of the knocking in the engine. So if you have another car, then use it there. But not for belta.

    Procedure to use it already mentioned over the bottle. Its 150ml liquid already sufficient for 70L petrol.
    So first, fill the tank (go for auto fill. Not for manual fill). After that pour half Octane booster in the Petrol tank.
    Save other half for next time.
    And for the safer side, never buy this product again (Octane booster or injector cleaner, etc.) Because these additives doesn't produce any significant charm in driving and just easily pull money out from our pockets.

    For 20K mileage. Yes he informed the same to me as well and I generate a separate thread to have expert's opinions. But 20K interval for small engines seems too much. Am presently running it at 2K and engine's drive is getting smoother everyday. However, 10K changing interval seems sufficient but don't forget to have the oil filter change after 5K. Use leepon's oil filter or I can assist you to buy 10 oil filters together at the price of Rs. 2550 only for your belta.

    All the best.

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    Quote Originally Posted by GoodMan7 View Post
    You are welcome brother. Perhaps you are the first one here on PW who went as per my suggestion. Am fairly pleased for it. Perhaps it would be the best thread ending up properly.

    For oil filter change, OMG..... please never go to Toyota again. Leepon's filters are best and price is only Rs. 260~270. So next time, try for leepon but original Malaysian one.
    As an experiment, you can buy 1 leepon filter, open its top and take out the filter paper inside to check the quality and compare it with Toyota's. I can literally say, there will be difference as size of mountain.

    For Octane booster, a word of wise. Plz don't use it in your new Belta. I've tried it in my pass 1kr-fe (same engine as belta) and can hear bit of the knocking in the engine. So if you have another car, then use it there. But not for belta.

    Procedure to use it already mentioned over the bottle. Its 150ml liquid already sufficient for 70L petrol.
    So first, fill the tank (go for auto fill. Not for manual fill). After that pour half Octane booster in the Petrol tank.
    Save other half for next time.
    And for the safer side, never buy this product again (Octane booster or injector cleaner, etc.) Because these additives doesn't produce any significant charm in driving and just easily pull money out from our pockets.

    For 20K mileage. Yes he informed the same to me as well and I generate a separate thread to have expert's opinions. But 20K interval for small engines seems too much. Am presently running it at 2K and engine's drive is getting smoother everyday. However, 10K changing interval seems sufficient but don't forget to have the oil filter change after 5K. Use leepon's oil filter or I can assist you to buy 10 oil filters together at the price of Rs. 2550 only for your belta.

    All the best.
    OK thanks for you guidance.
    BTW I bought that oil filter from Makki Oil store ( very famous in Township/FasialTown area) and according to him its better than Leepons and will give me 10K mileage.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Maverickz View Post
    OK thanks for you guidance.
    BTW I bought that oil filter from Makki Oil store ( very famous in Township/FasialTown area) and according to him its better than Leepons and will give me 10K mileage.
    what is the company name of these oil filters?
    And are these locally made or imported?
    No Guts, No Glory.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Maverickz View Post
    OK thanks for you guidance.
    BTW I bought that oil filter from Makki Oil store ( very famous in Township/FasialTown area) and according to him its better than Leepons and will give me 10K mileage.
    Don't use any oil filter for more than 6k kms. A toyota oil filter costs 1280rs here in karachi and I my opinion it is better than leppon. Toyota also provides japanese DENSO air filters for 2100 which are good for 20k kms or one year even in karachis dusty weather.
    For oil filter vic is also good and costs 370rs.

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    Senior PakWheeler Follow
    Xulfiqar's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GoodMan7 View Post
    yes true. But here the engines of old busses (laries), Bedford trucks, Loaders (like Shahzor), etc. become so noisy because of improper maintains or wrong choice of oils. Hence people use STP to cool down its unnecessary noises. But they idle well before driving, hence its OK to use it.
    Also people pour this STP in Generators especially to bring their noise down.
    saniplast fixes dont work in any sense, if the engine has become noisy it has enlarged its clearances to beyond serviceable limit, running it further will require complete replacement of parts.

    Such operators are downright jaahil to keep this running - specially on machines that make them their earning.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

  19. #98
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    zoddyshah's Avatar
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    Dear Experts, I have a small question. I recently had bought a Belta 1KRFE 1000cc almost 59000 driven but in good condition. I was not sure which oil was used in this before. I poured Zic A+ 5W20 and now confused whether it will hurt my card if the thicker one was being used in it previously? Should I keep using this or should I get this changed immediately? Your reply on this will be highly appreaciated.

    Regads,

    Zoraid Bokhari.

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