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Thread: Toyota Belta Owners & Fan Club

  1. #1
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    Default Toyota Belta Owners & Fan Club

    HELLO !

    Come discuss your Beltas here.

    Praise your rides.....

    Show your rides here....

    Get information from xperts.

    Discuss with each other...

    Belta owners and Fan's Club join and enjoy every thing here......

    i am starting it with my Ride .......

    and waiting for others to join.......

    TOYOTA BELTA (2005-2012)
    (JAPAN-SPEC)

    (complied by murtaza_murti):

    Optional engines:

    - 1KR-FE 1.0L (1000cc) inline 3-cylinder, 71HP/63 Ib-ft torque
    - 2SZ-FE 1.3L (1300cc) inline 4-cylinder, 86HP/89 Ib-ft torque
    - 2NZ-FE (comes in 4WD variants only) (1300cc) inline 4-cylinder, 84HP/89 Ib-ft torque

    * Note: All of the engines are equipped with VVT-i

    Drivetrains:

    - 1KR-FE = FF (front-wheel drive)
    - 2SZ-FE = FF (front-wheel drive)
    - 2NZ-FE = 4WD/AWD (four-wheel drive/all-wheel drive)

    Transmissions:

    - 1KR-FE = Super CVT-i
    - 2SZ-FE = Super CVT-i
    - 2NZ-FE = 4-Speed automatic with Super Select ECT with Gate Shifter

    Packages/variants/selections:

    B Package = Complete base package; manual windows, plastic door panels, black non-powered mirrors, black door handles, black trunk garnish, silver steel wheels with no wheel caps and base FM/AM radio.

    X Package = Powered windows, powered/re-tractable side-view mirrors, fabric door panels, chrome trunk garnish, colored handles and mirrors, built-in CD player or TV/NAV option, keyless entry, headlight beam adjuster (came in limited models) and black steel wheels with wheel caps.

    XS Package = Sports package same as the 1.0L X but with 14'' alloy wheels, rear LED trunk spoiler, RPM meter, fog lamps and side skirts.

    XL Package = All options of the X package but with a RPM meter, rear speakers, climate control, rear armrest, 50/50 split seats.

    G Package = All options of the L package but with Keyless Go option (push button start, door and trunk sensors, smart key). Alloy wheels, body-kit, fog lamps, iON purifier, multi-function steering wheel and voice TV/NAV with bluetooth and G-Book are optional factory options.

    Chassis code, DBA-KSP92:

    - 1.0L B
    - 1.0L X
    - 1.0L XS

    Chassis code, DBA-SCP92:

    - 1.3L X B (Business)
    - 1.3L X
    - 1.3L XS
    - 1.3L X 'L'
    - 1.3L G

    Chassis code, CBA-NCP96 (4WD):

    - 1.3L X (4WD)
    - 1.3L X 'L' (4WD)
    - 1.3L G (4WD)

    Colors:

    - Meteorite Grey Metallic
    - Silver Streak Mica
    - Barcelona Red Mica
    - Jade Sea Green Metallic
    - Polar White
    - Pearl White Metallic
    - Zephyr Blue Metallic
    - Pacific Blue Metallic

    Factory tire sizes:

    - 1.0L (B and X): 165/70/R14
    - 1.0L XS with 14'' alloys: 175/65/R14
    - 1.3L (XB, X): 165/70/R14
    - 1.3: (XS, XL and G) with 15'' alloys: 185/60/R15

    Face-lift came out in the 4th quarter of 2008, changes were as follows:

    - RPM meter standard in all models
    - RPM meter in XL & G changed colors and font
    - XL package replaces L package
    - Mesh front grill
    - Indicators removed from fenders
    - Side-view mirrors now with built-in indicators
    - Lighter grey interior color (dashboard, door panels, headliner etc)
    - Different seat fabric pattern
    - XL & G now have thicker bolster seats
    - Beige carpet instead of black
    - Rear door window switches merged with door armrests
    - Different wheel caps for G
    - Different 8-spoke alloy wheel design for XL & G
    - Key fob remote buttons switched to plastic from rubber
    - XS (sport) package dis-continued

    Manuals:

    - 1KR-FE Engine repair manual:


    http://webpages.charter.net/scott.mcclure/Yaris/1KR-FE/


    - Owners manual in English (ZIP file):

    https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B8-K...VFE/edit?pli=1

    NOTE: The production of the Toyota Belta and Yaris sedan STOPPED in the third quarter of 2012 in Japan and North America. The Belta was known as the Vios elsewhere. The new shape Vios came out in 2013 to replace the previous model in Thailand, Malaysia, Indonesia and other southeastern Asian countries along with Arabian Gulf countries and in some Middle Eastern countries.

    F U R Q A N

  2. #2041
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    Each or total?

    Sent from my ST25a using PW Forums mobile app

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    Quote Originally Posted by murtaza_murti View Post
    Use only OEM spark plugs.

    Denso Iridium SK20HR11, your car would need three. They cost anywhere between 950-1200rs depending on which city you reside in.
    Thnx @Murtaza... mine is 1300cc so will be needing four... and kindly tell me what exactly u mean by OEM.. sorry but i am bit unfamiliar with some of these things

    Sent from my LT22i using PW Forums mobile app

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    Quote Originally Posted by saif3187 View Post
    Thnx @Murtaza... mine is 1300cc so will be needing four... and kindly tell me what exactly u mean by OEM.. sorry but i am bit unfamiliar with some of these things

    Sent from my LT22i using PW Forums mobile app
    Oh sorry, I didn't know you had the 1300cc variant. Yes the 1.3L engine needs four plugs. Which engine is it, is the the 2NZ-FE or the 2SZ-FE?

    OEM means, Original Equipment Manufacture. OEM parts are original parts from the company for example: In this case it's Toyota.
    - '06 Toyota Belta 1.0L X - '68 VW Beetle 1300 DP - '89 Nissan B12 E16

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    Quote Originally Posted by murtaza_murti View Post
    Oh sorry, I didn't know you had the 1300cc variant. Yes the 1.3L engine needs four plugs. Which engine is it, is the the 2NZ-FE or the 2SZ-FE?

    OEM means, Original Equipment Manufacture. OEM parts are original parts from the company for example: In this case it's Toyota.
    Thanks a lot @ murtaza.. yeah the engine is 2SZ-FE.. will search for the original ones.. thnks again

    Sent from my LT22i using PW Forums mobile app

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    Default Back doors lock problem

    AOA, I bought Belta 2007 a couple of months ago. Recently car's back doors stopped opening from inside. Every time I have to come out and open the door manually from outside. Can anyone help with this problem or how can I get it fixed without any problem. Can I do it myself?

    Best regards
    Murtaza

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    Quote Originally Posted by murtza4u View Post
    AOA, I bought Belta 2007 a couple of months ago. Recently car's back doors stopped opening from inside. Every time I have to come out and open the door manually from outside. Can anyone help with this problem or how can I get it fixed without any problem. Can I do it myself?

    Best regards
    Murtaza
    Probably the child lock has been activated. Open both back doors and on the side there is a small black lever. Check that.

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    Quote Originally Posted by tyrone_40 View Post
    Probably the child lock has been activated. Open both back doors and on the side there is a small black lever. Check that.
    hehe.... Thanks tyrone. I checked both doors and the child locks were activated. I flipped them up and both doors started opening from inside. Thanks for the help :-)

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    Quote Originally Posted by murtza4u View Post
    hehe.... Thanks tyrone. I checked both doors and the child locks were activated. I flipped them up and both doors started opening from inside. Thanks for the help :-)
    Welcome lol

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    i m having a problem in my belta ....in the night when i switch on the lights ,the meter light not working neither lights on cd player and gear box ....kindly help and where to get it checked.....

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    Quote Originally Posted by siddiquitauseef View Post
    i m having a problem in my belta ....in the night when i switch on the lights ,the meter light not working neither lights on cd player and gear box ....kindly help and where to get it checked.....
    Check fuse box and each individual fuse. This is a simple job (checking) even a road side electrician can do it. But dont let him do any wiring alteration. Did you recently dismentalled your dash board?? Improper connectors can also be a result.
    Drop a gear, and disappear

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    Quote Originally Posted by siddiquitauseef View Post
    i m having a problem in my belta ....in the night when i switch on the lights ,the meter light not working neither lights on cd player and gear box ....kindly help and where to get it checked.....
    Check the little bulbs inside the meter, CD player console and the gear shift console. Also, check your fuses.
    - '06 Toyota Belta 1.0L X - '68 VW Beetle 1300 DP - '89 Nissan B12 E16

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    thanks for reply ,yeah i have got it checked ,t
    thr problem is the inner lights(cd panel,meter light) sometimes work but sometimes they remained off,then again i switch on then they worked but after sometime they are off ....

    yeah i got it checked all the fuses,they are all working f9 but there is one problem noted that the internal fuses (which are behind dashboard) the cuurent comes there for a while then gone

    so i will go 2morrow again he will check some other things as well....

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    hi....
    i have recently bought a belta 1000 cc, it an excellent car but i am facing a problem with its low mileage, people had told me that it gives 18-19 km/litre in the city and upto 22 km in long drive, but i have experienced 11-12 km/ltr in local. I have changed its oil, fuel and air filters but mileage is same even after engine tuning. A mechanic at "toyota east motors karachi" told me that its mileage will remain the same 11/12 km and that people just lie about 18-19 km/ltr, is it so??
    can somebody plz tell me how to increase its mileage??

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    <3 i love belta

  16. #2055
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    Hello Fellow Pakwheelers,


    I have been on PW for quite some time now albeit on the silent side using it mainly as a source of knowledge from our many expert members here. Loveable got me hooked on to Belta when he started this thread and Murtaza_murti paved the way for me to buy one myself once he started posting here and helping people out. This is a shout out to them and to all the other members who are helping turn n00bs in to experts by sharing all their knowledge selflessly and taking time out to answer queries.


    In lieu of this I thought I would put up an interesting case of a problem with my Belta which might intrigue some of the experts here while helping anyone else out there who is facing the same issue. I will try to be as clear as possible:


    Car Specs:


    Toyota Belta 2007 1.0L 1KR-FE
    Imported 2010/Reg 2011
    Mileage : 50k on the ODO
    Perol, no CNG


    There are two separate issues, since I`m not sure if they are related or not I will list them both out.


    1. A couple of months ago the car parked in an open area at night and it was raining heavily. In the morning when I started the car a strange sound was emitting from the A/C vents. The sound only came when I revved the engine and it was kind of like the sound you hear when a pot of water boils. Like a bubbly water sound but only when I revved the engine. After revving the engine 4-5 times the sound disappeared. Since then the sound comes every time I start the car after a prolonged resting period such as when parked at night and dissipates after a few revs. It does not come when the car has been parked for only a couple of hours or so. Besides the sound there was no impact on the car otherwise, it was functioning normally.


    2. This started happening about 1-2Months after the above issue. One day while on my way to the office in the morning, about 10 minutes in to the commute the car suddenly lost power, even with the accelerator pedal floored the car was vibrating heavily and not going above 30KM/Hr. I reached office, parked the car and went on about my day, in the evening when I started the car again to head back home, the same issue was there, the car was not going above 30KM/Hr. I took it to Honda Pit Stop where they examined the plugs, coils, air filter, air intake, cleaned the throttle body, opened the engine hub and manually checked the top of the pistons (not sure what they`re called) and hooked it up to the computer scanner and checked. None of this resolved or identified the issue. Then the fuel pump and filter was checked, the filter was replaced since they decided the pump was OK. The issue still remained. They say the only thing left to change now is the CVT fluid and if that fails then they are stumped.


    I have reviewed the CVT change procedure as listed here by Omer Saleem in the DIY projects thread and see that many of the mistakes the mechanics make during the change were repeated by the Pit Stop staff when I asked them how they will do that, due to this I refrained from getting the CVT fluid changed as they were really just guessing.


    The Symptoms: This ONLY happens when the car has been parked with the engine off for 1-2 Hours +. After driving the car for about 10-15 minutes the car becomes completely normal and the drive smooth as before.


    1. When the car is started after resting for 1-2 Hours + you can hear the engine missing. During the first 5 minutes the car will stall if the accelerator is not pressed (as in the case of a CNG car if the "raise" is low and needs adjustments).
    2. After 5 minutes the issue of the car stalling subsides, however the car jerks and won't go above 30-40KM even with the accelerator pedal floored. During this the engine will be doing a lot of "missing". The issue remains the same with or without the AC.
    3. After approx. 10-15 minutes of driving the car will become completely normal and smooth.
    4. The issue will be repeated once the car is park/off for 1-2Hours + even immediately following a driving session.


    Since I showed the car to two different reputable workshops/mechanics and they couldn't diagnose the issue, I turn to my fellow Pakwheelers for help and advice.


    Good Luck!

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    any 1 plz guide me how i clean my belta efi engine??????????

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    [QUOTE=memphisblue;3989825]Hello Fellow Pakwheelers,


    I have been on PW for quite some time now albeit on the silent side using it mainly as a source of knowledge from our many expert members here. Loveable got me hooked on to Belta when he started this thread and Murtaza_murti paved the way for me to buy one myself once he started posting here and helping people out. This is a shout out to them and to all the other members who are helping turn n00bs in to experts by sharing all their knowledge selflessly and taking time out to answer queries.


    In lieu of this I thought I would put up an interesting case of a problem with my Belta which might intrigue some of the experts here while helping anyone else out there who is facing the same issue. I will try to be as clear as possible:


    Car Specs:


    Toyota Belta 2007 1.0L 1KR-FE
    Imported 2010/Reg 2011
    Mileage : 50k on the ODO
    Perol, no CNG


    There are two separate issues, since I`m not sure if they are related or not I will list them both out.


    1. A couple of months ago the car parked in an open area at night and it was raining heavily. In the morning when I started the car a strange sound was emitting from the A/C vents. The sound only came when I revved the engine and it was kind of like the sound you hear when a pot of water boils. Like a bubbly water sound but only when I revved the engine. After revving the engine 4-5 times the sound disappeared. Since then the sound comes every time I start the car after a prolonged resting period such as when parked at night and dissipates after a few revs. It does not come when the car has been parked for only a couple of hours or so. Besides the sound there was no impact on the car otherwise, it was functioning normally.


    2. This started happening about 1-2Months after the above issue. One day while on my way to the office in the morning, about 10 minutes in to the commute the car suddenly lost power, even with the accelerator pedal floored the car was vibrating heavily and not going above 30KM/Hr. I reached office, parked the car and went on about my day, in the evening when I started the car again to head back home, the same issue was there, the car was not going above 30KM/Hr. I took it to Honda Pit Stop where they examined the plugs, coils, air filter, air intake, cleaned the throttle body, opened the engine hub and manually checked the top of the pistons (not sure what they`re called) and hooked it up to the computer scanner and checked. None of this resolved or identified the issue. Then the fuel pump and filter was checked, the filter was replaced since they decided the pump was OK. The issue still remained. They say the only thing left to change now is the CVT fluid and if that fails then they are stumped.


    I have reviewed the CVT change procedure as listed here by Omer Saleem in the DIY projects thread and see that many of the mistakes the mechanics make during the change were repeated by the Pit Stop staff when I asked them how they will do that, due to this I refrained from getting the CVT fluid changed as they were really just guessing.


    The Symptoms: This ONLY happens when the car has been parked with the engine off for 1-2 Hours +. After driving the car for about 10-15 minutes the car becomes completely normal and the drive smooth as before.


    1. When the car is started after resting for 1-2 Hours + you can hear the engine missing. During the first 5 minutes the car will stall if the accelerator is not pressed (as in the case of a CNG car if the "raise" is low and needs adjustments).
    2. After 5 minutes the issue of the car stalling subsides, however the car jerks and won't go above 30-40KM even with the accelerator pedal floored. During this the engine will be doing a lot of "missing". The issue remains the same with or without the AC.
    3. After approx. 10-15 minutes of driving the car will become completely normal and smooth.
    4. The issue will be repeated once the car is park/off for 1-2Hours + even immediately following a driving session.


    Since I showed the car to two different reputable workshops/mechanics and they couldn't diagnose the issue, I turn to my fellow Pakwheelers for help and advice.


    Good Luck![/QUOTE Hi memphisblue. Nice nick btw . I see you've already taken all the measures that I would have taken but for the CVT change all you hv to do is remove the bolt beneath and some fluid will come out the you have to unscrew the tube inside the same hole using the same 6mm Allen wrench. A lot more will come out. You then screw back the tube only and fill from the side bolt marked TC until it overflows from the bottom. Once that happens stop fillling and let the overflow slow to a drip and screw back the drain bolt and your done. I did the same and instructed my mechanic step by step which he did.

    For your issue I'm sure murtaza_murti or some other expert will be able to help you. Also I suggest you also post in the Yaris forums and ask this guy CT Scott. He is very helpful and resolved many an issue for me.

    All the best!

  19. #2058
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    Thanks for quick tutorial Tyrone . Can you kindly put up a link to the yaris forum?

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    hi....anyone there!!!
    i have recently bought a belta 2006 Regd in 08, 1000 cc, it is an excellent car but i am facing a problem with its low mileage, people had told me that it gives 18-19 km/litre in the city and upto 22 km in long drive, but i have experienced 11-12 km/ltr in local. I have changed its oil(Zic A+), and air filters but mileage is same even after engine tuning. A mechanic at "toyota east motors karachi" told me that its mileage will remain the same 11/12 km and that people just lie about 18-19 km/ltr, is it so??
    can somebody plz tell me how to increase its mileage??

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    Quote Originally Posted by memphisblue View Post
    Thanks for quick tutorial Tyrone . Can you kindly put up a link to the yaris forum?

    Welcome anytime I love my belta too.

    It's yarisworld.com/forums

    Post in the "Second Generation" section and title your subject CT Scott need your help.and hope he responds sooon

    All the best hope your issue gets resolved. Don't forget to update here.

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