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Thread: Toyota Belta Owners & Fan Club

  1. #1
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    Default Toyota Belta Owners & Fan Club

    HELLO !

    Come discuss your Beltas here.

    Praise your rides.....

    Show your rides here....

    Get information from xperts.

    Discuss with each other...

    Belta owners and Fan's Club join and enjoy every thing here......

    i am starting it with my Ride .......

    and waiting for others to join.......

    TOYOTA BELTA (2005-2012)
    (JAPAN-SPEC)

    (complied by murtaza_murti):

    Optional engines:

    - 1KR-FE 1.0L (1000cc) inline 3-cylinder, 71HP/63 Ib-ft torque
    - 2SZ-FE 1.3L (1300cc) inline 4-cylinder, 86HP/89 Ib-ft torque
    - 2NZ-FE (comes in 4WD variants only) (1300cc) inline 4-cylinder, 84HP/89 Ib-ft torque

    * Note: All of the engines are equipped with VVT-i

    Drivetrains:

    - 1KR-FE = FF (front-wheel drive)
    - 2SZ-FE = FF (front-wheel drive)
    - 2NZ-FE = 4WD/AWD (four-wheel drive/all-wheel drive)

    Transmissions:

    - 1KR-FE = Super CVT-i
    - 2SZ-FE = Super CVT-i
    - 2NZ-FE = 4-Speed automatic with Super Select ECT with Gate Shifter

    Packages/variants/selections:

    B Package = Complete base package; manual windows, plastic door panels, black non-powered mirrors, black door handles, black trunk garnish, silver steel wheels with no wheel caps and base FM/AM radio.

    X Package = Powered windows, powered/re-tractable side-view mirrors, fabric door panels, chrome trunk garnish, colored handles and mirrors, built-in CD player or TV/NAV option, keyless entry, headlight beam adjuster (came in limited models) and black steel wheels with wheel caps.

    XS Package = Sports package same as the 1.0L X but with 14'' alloy wheels, rear LED trunk spoiler, RPM meter, fog lamps and side skirts.

    XL Package = All options of the X package but with a RPM meter, rear speakers, climate control, rear armrest, 50/50 split seats.

    G Package = All options of the L package but with Keyless Go option (push button start, door and trunk sensors, smart key). Alloy wheels, body-kit, fog lamps, iON purifier, multi-function steering wheel and voice TV/NAV with bluetooth and G-Book are optional factory options.

    Chassis code, DBA-KSP92:

    - 1.0L B
    - 1.0L X
    - 1.0L XS

    Chassis code, DBA-SCP92:

    - 1.3L X B (Business)
    - 1.3L X
    - 1.3L XS
    - 1.3L X 'L'
    - 1.3L G

    Chassis code, CBA-NCP96 (4WD):

    - 1.3L X (4WD)
    - 1.3L X 'L' (4WD)
    - 1.3L G (4WD)

    Colors:

    - Meteorite Grey Metallic
    - Silver Streak Mica
    - Barcelona Red Mica
    - Jade Sea Green Metallic
    - Polar White
    - Pearl White Metallic
    - Zephyr Blue Metallic
    - Pacific Blue Metallic

    Factory tire sizes:

    - 1.0L (B and X): 165/70/R14
    - 1.0L XS with 14'' alloys: 175/65/R14
    - 1.3L (XB, X): 165/70/R14
    - 1.3: (XS, XL and G) with 15'' alloys: 185/60/R15

    Face-lift came out in the 4th quarter of 2008, changes were as follows:

    - RPM meter standard in all models
    - RPM meter in XL & G changed colors and font
    - XL package replaces L package
    - Mesh front grill
    - Indicators removed from fenders
    - Side-view mirrors now with built-in indicators
    - Lighter grey interior color (dashboard, door panels, headliner etc)
    - Different seat fabric pattern
    - XL & G now have thicker bolster seats
    - Beige carpet instead of black
    - Rear door window switches merged with door armrests
    - Different wheel caps for G
    - Different 8-spoke alloy wheel design for XL & G
    - Key fob remote buttons switched to plastic from rubber
    - XS (sport) package dis-continued

    Manuals:

    - 1KR-FE Engine repair manual:


    http://webpages.charter.net/scott.mcclure/Yaris/1KR-FE/


    - Owners manual in English (ZIP file):

    https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B8-K...VFE/edit?pli=1

    NOTE: The production of the Toyota Belta and Yaris sedan STOPPED in the third quarter of 2012 in Japan and North America. The Belta was known as the Vios elsewhere. The new shape Vios came out in 2013 to replace the previous model in Thailand, Malaysia, Indonesia and other southeastern Asian countries along with Arabian Gulf countries and in some Middle Eastern countries.

    F U R Q A N

  2. #2741
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    Quote Originally Posted by murtaza_murti View Post
    You did everything correctly but why did you go through process number 8? If you poured 3.8 liters after flushing the entire old fluid out you didn't have to open the drain bolt again and remove 1 liter, what made you do that?

    BTW, you should not under ANY circumstance open the drain bolt when the engine is on.
    Murtaza, just one thing in Xulfiqar's thread somewhere I recall, he mentioned that the CVT fluid should be always be filled in while the engine is running ???????????? Confused

    Will see if i can try and locate that thread ....

  3. #2742
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    Sir, everyone tells his own experience and procedure. Logically, when Cvt fluid was refilled, extra fluid will have to flush out from long plastic funnel which is actually a Guage, and IMO over filling is not possible because any extra quantity will be flushed out from that plastic funnel. And now this extra fluid stays in the pan, if you drain it or not, it doesn't make any difference.

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    Sir, everyone tells his own experience and procedure. Logically, when Cvt fluid was refilled, extra fluid will have to flush out from long plastic funnel which is actually a Guage, and IMO over filling is not possible because any extra quantity will be flushed out from that plastic funnel. And now this extra fluid stays in the pan, if you drain it or not, it doesn't make any difference.

  5. #2744
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    Please comment on previous post. It seems that Belta club is so inactive, I must say.

  6. #2745
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    Quote Originally Posted by ajall View Post
    Sir, everyone tells his own experience and procedure. Logically, when Cvt fluid was refilled, extra fluid will have to flush out from long plastic funnel which is actually a Guage, and IMO over filling is not possible because any extra quantity will be flushed out from that plastic funnel. And now this extra fluid stays in the pan, if you drain it or not, it doesn't make any difference.
    Huh? When the guy already flushed the ENTIRE fluid why does he have to open the drain nut after pouring in new fluid? That's just sheer stupidity.

    Quote Originally Posted by tyrone_40 View Post
    Murtaza, just one thing in Xulfiqar's thread somewhere I recall, he mentioned that the CVT fluid should be always be filled in while the engine is running ???????????? Confused

    Will see if i can try and locate that thread ....
    That's something unheard of for me. Please locate the thread and share the link with us.
    - '06 Toyota Belta 1.0L X - '68 VW Beetle 1300 DP - '89 Nissan B12 E16

  7. #2746
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    Quote Originally Posted by ajall View Post
    Please comment on previous post. It seems that Belta club is so inactive, I must say.
    It is very active, the thing is you have have patience.
    - '06 Toyota Belta 1.0L X - '68 VW Beetle 1300 DP - '89 Nissan B12 E16

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    Sir, I m not expert like you, however logically drain bolt is meant to check the fluid level, if fluid comes out from it, means Cvt fluid is full. Extra or overfilled fluid stays at pan. Long plastic funnel has a hole inside, which lets extra fluid to be flushed out into the pan. In your opinion what is that 500 ml or so Cvt fluid which remains in the pan? And further thus procedure is what being exercised by to Toyotas.

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    Aoa. Does anyone have manual of toyota belta? Please email me, I shall be highly obliged.
    ajall@yahoo.com

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    Aoa. Cvt fluid of Belta is always checked when machine is warmed up and idling.
    All extra fluid will be drained out when you open drain bolt at the bottom of pan with the marking "Check". I can authenticate this. And further, when fluid is poured in, drain bolt have to be opened to check the fluid level, because there is no other procedure to check the proper fluid level. I am more than100% satisfied and can authenticate this. Regards

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    Quote Originally Posted by ajall View Post
    Aoa. Cvt fluid of Belta is always checked when machine is warmed up and idling.
    All extra fluid will be drained out when you open drain bolt at the bottom of pan with the marking "Check". I can authenticate this. And further, when fluid is poured in, drain bolt have to be opened to check the fluid level, because there is no other procedure to check the proper fluid level. I am more than100% satisfied and can authenticate this. Regards

    Is there a Check mark indicator? Don't recall seeing but could you post a pic?

    Would be nice if you can authentic your source of information.

    Thanks

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    I plan to use an injector cleaner in my Belta. Is it ok to use and if so what is the duration for using it?

    My car has done about 59,000 kms to date.

  13. #2752
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    Raise your car, and see under neath. Quite adjacent to drain bolt of Cvt fluid, the word "Check" is inscribed there. You can check please.
    Further, when you refill fluid through TC marking bolt, start engine and shift from P to B with 15 second interval, twice or thrice, then raise the car while engine is idling, open the drain bolt and drain out extra fluid till it starts dripling.
    I done the same procedure with my Belta at Toyota Islamabad.
    Their engineer also authenticated while referring to Belta original manual. Regards.

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    Please never use injector cleaner. A good fuel already has cleaning properties. And OEM also doesn't recommend this.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ajall View Post
    Please never use injector cleaner. A good fuel already has cleaning properties. And OEM also doesn't recommend this.
    Thanks ok will avoid it.

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    Why do you intend to use injector cleaner?

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    Aoa,
    I have belta 1300cc. 86k driven.
    I bought that 74km. And used Toyota tin oil 5-30 oil twice and engine was reducing oil, later I use petron 20-50 and again oil is reducing...
    What to do?

    Thanks.

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    Sale the car...imported cars are orphans...3 to 4 lac driven and on ODO and sheet showing 30k to 40k...buy paki which will be more reliable and mostly have service history

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    Quote Originally Posted by ajall View Post
    Aoa. Does anyone have manual of toyota belta? Please email me, I shall be highly obliged.
    ajall@yahoo.com
    We put it online ....

    - Owners manual in English (ZIP file):

    https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B8-K...VFE/edit?pli=1

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    Hi everyone, I'm planning to buy Toyota Belta in couple of days or so. Can anyone please tell me that which of the Belta variant is the best option in its price? Moreover, if I've to maintain my car purely on petrol and no CNG at all, then would 1.0 Belta would be fine or 1.3 is better in every aspect? In addition to this, please share your experience of this car (Belta) in every aspect. Will really appreciate that. Hope to hear from anyone real soon.

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    Quote Originally Posted by alibintahir View Post
    Hi everyone, I'm planning to buy Toyota Belta in couple of days or so. Can anyone please tell me that which of the Belta variant is the best option in its price? Moreover, if I've to maintain my car purely on petrol and no CNG at all, then would 1.0 Belta would be fine or 1.3 is better in every aspect? In addition to this, please share your experience of this car (Belta) in every aspect. Will really appreciate that. Hope to hear from anyone real soon.
    Beltas have a cvt transmission and it is recommended to not run it on cng , one of the1.3 variant has a simple Auto transmission (non cvt) and if you do change your mind about cng running I'd suggest you buy that one.
    Now that you say you don't want CNG i write below what i best know about the 1.3 and 1.0 (owner of the latter).
    The 1.0l is easier to find mostly, and will be a much cleaner car. The same amount of money will get you a less driven 1.0l clean car of a newer model than a more rough 1.3l car with an older model.
    The 1.0l car, being a 3 cylinder has a little above average engine noise and vibrations.but that you get used to once you're acquainted to it.
    And of course the 1.3l offers better performance overall.
    But then 1.0l is cheaper to register and has no yearly token.whereas the larger engine will have a yearly token tax.
    so overall I'd say 1 0l is cheaper to maintain and easier to find a good condition car. Whereas you go for a 1.3l if you're a pure driving enthusiast.
    hope that answers your queries

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