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Thread: Toyota Belta Owners & Fan Club

  1. #1
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    Default Toyota Belta Owners & Fan Club

    HELLO !

    Come discuss your Beltas here.

    Praise your rides.....

    Show your rides here....

    Get information from xperts.

    Discuss with each other...

    Belta owners and Fan's Club join and enjoy every thing here......

    i am starting it with my Ride .......

    and waiting for others to join.......

    TOYOTA BELTA (2005-2012)
    (JAPAN-SPEC)

    (complied by murtaza_murti):

    Optional engines:

    - 1KR-FE 1.0L (1000cc) inline 3-cylinder, 71HP/63 Ib-ft torque
    - 2SZ-FE 1.3L (1300cc) inline 4-cylinder, 86HP/89 Ib-ft torque
    - 2NZ-FE (comes in 4WD variants only) (1300cc) inline 4-cylinder, 84HP/89 Ib-ft torque

    * Note: All of the engines are equipped with VVT-i

    Drivetrains:

    - 1KR-FE = FF (front-wheel drive)
    - 2SZ-FE = FF (front-wheel drive)
    - 2NZ-FE = 4WD/AWD (four-wheel drive/all-wheel drive)

    Transmissions:

    - 1KR-FE = Super CVT-i
    - 2SZ-FE = Super CVT-i
    - 2NZ-FE = 4-Speed automatic with Super Select ECT with Gate Shifter

    Packages/variants/selections:

    B Package = Complete base package; manual windows, plastic door panels, black non-powered mirrors, black door handles, black trunk garnish, silver steel wheels with no wheel caps and base FM/AM radio.

    X Package = Powered windows, powered/re-tractable side-view mirrors, fabric door panels, chrome trunk garnish, colored handles and mirrors, built-in CD player or TV/NAV option, keyless entry, headlight beam adjuster (came in limited models) and black steel wheels with wheel caps.

    XS Package = Sports package same as the 1.0L X but with 14'' alloy wheels, rear LED trunk spoiler, RPM meter, fog lamps and side skirts.

    XL Package = All options of the X package but with a RPM meter, rear speakers, climate control, rear armrest, 50/50 split seats.

    G Package = All options of the L package but with Keyless Go option (push button start, door and trunk sensors, smart key). Alloy wheels, body-kit, fog lamps, iON purifier, multi-function steering wheel and voice TV/NAV with bluetooth and G-Book are optional factory options.

    Chassis code, DBA-KSP92:

    - 1.0L B
    - 1.0L X
    - 1.0L XS

    Chassis code, DBA-SCP92:

    - 1.3L X B (Business)
    - 1.3L X
    - 1.3L XS
    - 1.3L X 'L'
    - 1.3L G

    Chassis code, CBA-NCP96 (4WD):

    - 1.3L X (4WD)
    - 1.3L X 'L' (4WD)
    - 1.3L G (4WD)

    Colors:

    - Meteorite Grey Metallic
    - Silver Streak Mica
    - Barcelona Red Mica
    - Jade Sea Green Metallic
    - Polar White
    - Pearl White Metallic
    - Zephyr Blue Metallic
    - Pacific Blue Metallic

    Factory tire sizes:

    - 1.0L (B and X): 165/70/R14
    - 1.0L XS with 14'' alloys: 175/65/R14
    - 1.3L (XB, X): 165/70/R14
    - 1.3: (XS, XL and G) with 15'' alloys: 185/60/R15

    Face-lift came out in the 4th quarter of 2008, changes were as follows:

    - RPM meter standard in all models
    - RPM meter in XL & G changed colors and font
    - XL package replaces L package
    - Mesh front grill
    - Indicators removed from fenders
    - Side-view mirrors now with built-in indicators
    - Lighter grey interior color (dashboard, door panels, headliner etc)
    - Different seat fabric pattern
    - XL & G now have thicker bolster seats
    - Beige carpet instead of black
    - Rear door window switches merged with door armrests
    - Different wheel caps for G
    - Different 8-spoke alloy wheel design for XL & G
    - Key fob remote buttons switched to plastic from rubber
    - XS (sport) package dis-continued

    Manuals:

    - 1KR-FE Engine repair manual:


    http://webpages.charter.net/scott.mcclure/Yaris/1KR-FE/


    - Owners manual in English (ZIP file):

    https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B8-K...VFE/edit?pli=1

    NOTE: The production of the Toyota Belta and Yaris sedan STOPPED in the third quarter of 2012 in Japan and North America. The Belta was known as the Vios elsewhere. The new shape Vios came out in 2013 to replace the previous model in Thailand, Malaysia, Indonesia and other southeastern Asian countries along with Arabian Gulf countries and in some Middle Eastern countries.

    F U R Q A N

  2. #481
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    My belta 2005 1000cc vibrates a lot while stopping at trafic light with car still in drive. Happens more when a/c is on and pick also falls with ac and i use high octane in summer and this improves it.I change oil,oil filter and air filter at 3000/- and i changed a/t fluid at 40,000/-.
    plz advise on vibrating problem and also it gives me around 9-10 km/liter in city. Shud i get the sparks changed and carb/map sensor cleaned???
    plz advise.
    thanx
    BEST THINGS IN LIFE R NEVER FREE

  3. #482
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    The vibration is part of the 1000cc belta,a slight vibration so if it is that then you will have to live with it.

    Though i would get the plugs checked and changed if you feel like it.

    Also try a bigger battery (has helped in cases) Its been an issue with a few Vitz too and the change of battery has helped.

    Try a second hand bigger battery and see if that helps you?


    Quote Originally Posted by kasaas View Post
    My belta 2005 1000cc vibrates a lot while stopping at trafic light with car still in drive. Happens more when a/c is on and pick also falls with ac and i use high octane in summer and this improves it.I change oil,oil filter and air filter at 3000/- and i changed a/t fluid at 40,000/-.
    plz advise on vibrating problem and also it gives me around 9-10 km/liter in city. Shud i get the sparks changed and carb/map sensor cleaned???
    plz advise.
    thanx

  4. #483
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    Quote Originally Posted by kasaas View Post
    My belta 2005 1000cc vibrates a lot while stopping at trafic light with car still in drive. Happens more when a/c is on and pick also falls with ac and i use high octane in summer and this improves it.I change oil,oil filter and air filter at 3000/- and i changed a/t fluid at 40,000/-.
    plz advise on vibrating problem and also it gives me around 9-10 km/liter in city. Shud i get the sparks changed and carb/map sensor cleaned???
    plz advise.
    thanx
    This has to do something with your Beltas fuel system. I hope your not using a CNG kit. If your not then add a fuel additive to a full tank of petrol and see if it works, if it doesn't then get your fuel filter changed. Cleaning the TB is not worth it, because for a complete cleaning you'll have to bolt it off of it's assembly.
    - '06 Toyota Belta 1.0L X - '68 VW Beetle 1300 DP - '89 Nissan B12 E16

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    thanx alta and murtaza_murti
    BEST THINGS IN LIFE R NEVER FREE

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    Quote Originally Posted by shtaurus View Post
    i want to change oil in my belta 1300cc. someone recommended me Mobil 1 fully synthetic and guaranteed for 20,000 km. at PKR 3500 for 4 ltr cane. Any body here have knowledge???
    Quote Originally Posted by nabeel112 View Post
    well i use ZIC A+ which is also fully synthetic. Zic guy told me that no doubt this oil can last for 15000 kms but the problem is Pakistan,s environment. So they recommend for Pakistan fully synthtic oil should be changed at 7000 kms. if u r using for the first time change it at 6000 kms, and then change at 7000km. I ask tyre wala k air filter mai hava mar do after every 2500 kms. But i get my oil change at 4500-5000 kms
    we do not need fully synthetic oil. reason, i've never understood. Storm told me this so better to ask him. but please stop wasting money.

    Quote Originally Posted by murtaza_murti View Post
    Well, Mobil 1 is pretty good. Fully synthetic motor oil is what I use too but I use Shell Helix Ulta 5W-40. 20,000Kms is a long time for a oil change. Even Shell recommends you to change your engine oil at 10,000Kms, but I won't risk it. I think you wouldn't too. In my own opinion the best mileage to change your engine oil is at 3,500-4,000Kms.
    5000 km is the optimum though one can stretch up to 7000 in extreme cases. I myself have used oils guaranteeing 10000km and the like but firstly, we can't do it due to our environment and secondly, the quality ov filters we have here. Again, technical replies can be given by Storm because i learnt all this from him.

    why is silver the most common in Belta? it's not metallic even. i hate it.

  7. 13-03-2011, 05:39 PM

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    Quote Originally Posted by Vajih102 View Post
    we do not need fully synthetic oil. reason, i've never understood. Storm told me this so better to ask him. but please stop wasting money.



    5000 km is the optimum though one can stretch up to 7000 in extreme cases. I myself have used oils guaranteeing 10000km and the like but firstly, we can't do it due to our environment and secondly, the quality ov filters we have here. Again, technical replies can be given by Storm because i learnt all this from him.

    why is silver the most common in Belta? it's not metallic even. i hate it.
    That is true, but changing it earlier is better. Silver is common because all the other colors are hard to get, and it is Metallic.
    - '06 Toyota Belta 1.0L X - '68 VW Beetle 1300 DP - '89 Nissan B12 E16

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    @vajih
    using fully synthetic is not wasting money, its rather exactly the other way around. i know it for sure...used zic xq for like 2 years on my platz the only reason i m on petromin now, is the lack of surity of getting 1 number zic xq...otherwise, i wud always run ma car on fully synthetic for obvious reasons

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    Quote Originally Posted by waleed80 View Post
    @vajih
    using fully synthetic is not wasting money, its rather exactly the other way around. i know it for sure...used zic xq for like 2 years on my platz the only reason i m on petromin now, is the lack of surity of getting 1 number zic xq...otherwise, i wud always run ma car on fully synthetic for obvious reasons
    Waleed, Zic is now going for their own company controlled oil change sort of stores in lahore. I also take my car there for oil change. I hope they get to other cities as well.

    @Vajih. Zic never claimed that zic A+ should be used for 10,000km. They say that it should be changed by 5k to 7k kms in PAKISTAN. Though they claim if perefect condition (the one in europe and japan) they can last for more than 15k kms.

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    Quote Originally Posted by nabeel112 View Post
    @Vajih. Zic never claimed that zic A+ should be used for 10,000km. ..........
    ACHA! i heard it from shopkeepers. thanks for the correction and sorry Zic!

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    i am having a problem that whenever 3 or 4 people are sitting in the car with nothing in the trunk car hits the road especially on speed breakers it has stock tyres and rims this is a serious problem for me i need suggestions to make it better or is it wise to sell it and go for honda city(automatic) please help........

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    @Vajih102 can u help me with this as i am using my car for family purpose and pakistani roads are gona destroy the car

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    m selling my uncles belta too..btw i like this car..neither is the 1.0 underpowered..quite a gud car

    https://www.pakwheels.com/used-cars/...lamabad-203259

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    Quote Originally Posted by kingreturns View Post
    @Vajih102 can u help me with this as i am using my car for family purpose and pakistani roads are gona destroy the car
    Are you using stock tires?
    - '06 Toyota Belta 1.0L X - '68 VW Beetle 1300 DP - '89 Nissan B12 E16

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    Quote Originally Posted by murtaza_murti View Post
    Are you using stock tires?
    yes stock rims and tyres

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    king, murtaza is the man! i had the same issue with my Platz. When i had it with Corolla because of installation ov CNG, i got aluminium spacers put into the shocks. worked perfect.

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    Question

    Hi,

    My name is Bryan and I have a 2007 Toyata Belta . I understand that it has a CVT transmission. How often should i change the transmission fluid?

    What is the correct procedure to change the transmission fluid since it has no dipstick?

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    Quote Originally Posted by bryanfj View Post
    Hi,

    My name is Bryan and I have a 2007 Toyata Belta . I understand that it has a CVT transmission. How often should i change the transmission fluid?

    What is the correct procedure to change the transmission fluid since it has no dipstick?
    Hi, Bryan. First of all I would like to welcome you to Pakwheels.com and welcome to the Belta owners and fan club aswell. I see you have a Belta, what varient is it? If I may ask could you post some pictures of your Belta? I hope I am not becoming to personal.

    As far as the CVT fluid is concerned, it should be changed at every 60,000Kms. Are you facing any problems with your transmission? Is it giving you any jerks or it is acting strange in any way? If your Belta isn't driven 60,000Kms yet or isn't giving you any types of problems and it isn't acting strange I suggest you don't flush/replace your CVT fluid yet.

    If you still want to flush/replace your CVT fluid what you will have to do is, turn to open the drain bolt of the gearbox a little not all the way or your transmission fluid will just pour out within seconds. Turn to to open the drain bolt a little and check the color and the stickiness of the fluid if the color of the fluid is dark green and it's sticky, it's time for you to change and flush the transmission fluid.

    The best CVT fluid for Toyota's is Toyota Genuine CVT Fluid TC you would need around 4 liters for a complete flush and replacement.
    - '06 Toyota Belta 1.0L X - '68 VW Beetle 1300 DP - '89 Nissan B12 E16

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    Question Changing CVT Transmission Fluid

    Hi Murtaza,

    Thanks for the speedy response. Good to be a part of the club. I will take some pics and upload them over the weekend.

    Presently she has approx 64,000 on the clocks and I am getting some jerks every now and then, not too aften. Guess its time to do a flush.

    Could u confirm if the process of changing the transmission fluid is the same as below?

    You open the drain bolt and drain out the fluid first. Then closed the drain bolt. do u have to change the drain bolt washer ?

    Then u open the filler bolt and the fluid has to be pumped in since there is no dipstick.
    Do u put in the full 4L of fluid or is it 3.5L? How do u know when its full?

    I've read where some people say for other cvt transmission that u have to turn on the engine let it idle and the excess will pour out then you close the filler bolt. Does this go for our cvt transmission as well?

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    Quote Originally Posted by bryanfj View Post
    Hi Murtaza,

    Thanks for the speedy response. Good to be a part of the club. I will take some pics and upload them over the weekend.

    Presently she has approx 64,000 on the clocks and I am getting some jerks every now and then, not too aften. Guess its time to do a flush.

    Could u confirm if the process of changing the transmission fluid is the same as below?

    You open the drain bolt and drain out the fluid first. Then closed the drain bolt. do u have to change the drain bolt washer ?

    Then u open the filler bolt and the fluid has to be pumped in since there is no dipstick.
    Do u put in the full 4L of fluid or is it 3.5L? How do u know when its full?

    I've read where some people say for other cvt transmission that u have to turn on the engine let it idle and the excess will pour out then you close the filler bolt. Does this go for our cvt transmission as well?
    Sorry for the late reply, it's seems like it's time for your Belta to flush/replace it's CVT fluid.

    Yes, you have to open the drain bolt and drain the fluid completely. Let the fluid drain out throughly for around 10 minutes after opening the drain bolt. Yes, you will have to replace the drain bolt washer aswell.

    Correct, after the CVT fluid has been throughly flushed it's time for you to pour in the new CVT fluid, it mostly takes 4 liters. When your pouring the CVT fluid pour it in slowly and calmly don't rush. When the CVT fluid is almost at the top stop pouring it. Don't over-pour it just top it up.

    After pouring the CVT fluid and closing the filler bolt properly you will have to let the engine run for 10 minutes, shift the gears aswell. Check for leakages all around the gearbox and see if the CVT fluid isn't leaking through the filler bolt. If it isn't and your gears are shifting smoothly take your Belta for a ride around the street and check if the gears are still jerking or not.
    - '06 Toyota Belta 1.0L X - '68 VW Beetle 1300 DP - '89 Nissan B12 E16

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    Question Changing CVT Transmission Fluid

    Hi Murtaza,

    Thanks again. I live in Jamaica and since last year we've had an influx of the Belta into our country. Lovely cars but no owners or service model provided. Can't seem to get them in english either.

    It would be easier if I could see a pic of this process. Several people have lost their transmission due to lack of information. Good thing I found you guys.

    Just two more questions and I'm good.

    When you say "pour" in the transmission fluid are u saying that it doesn't have to be "pumped in".

    What is the indication that fluid is at the top? Is it when it reaches the top of the filler hole? Where exactly is the filler hole?

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