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Thread: charade engine swap- need suggestions+guidance

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    Default charade engine swap- need suggestions+guidance

    Mod Edit: Thread moved to correct section.
    A.A
    i want to swap my charade's engine so as the title says i need suggestion+GUIDANCE...
    can i go for D15b easily..or its a big hassel??alot of alterations needed??
    main thing i want is reliability i mean i dont want to visit workshop every weekend....+ fuel economy+performance...
    what would b the esimated cost on swap??
    also which workshop you guyz recommend me for this all??
    and im talking about g-11 model..1986charade engine swap- need suggestions+guidance - 186686 charade engine swap  need suggestions guidance Img00035

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    oh i bought a Ej-ve aka. Duets engine in 45k last week almost a new engine

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sharo53 View Post
    can you plz shed some light on the highlited part...plz
    this is the engine i bought today got a good deal so bought it complete(with gearbox,carburator,alternator etc)
    this engine is having coustom made 3-1 headers so hoping a bit better performance then total stock engine
    sir what you say, should i go with these headers or the stock on?


    charade engine swap- need suggestions+guidance - 247552

    charade engine swap- need suggestions+guidance - 247553
    the oil cooler plate is mounted where the original oil filter sits right now, and the oil filter is then tightened on top of that oil cooler. If you look around in the market for a charade diesel or detomaso or Gtti engine you will see the part, The water pipes to the oil cooler are connected from the heater pipes.

    btw the headers look nice - but the pairing of the cylinders dont make much sense as this engine uses a 1-2-3 firing order rather than the usually accepted 1-3-2 firing order.

    anyways - good job, now clean the engine and thoroughly clean the carburettor and inlet manifold, replace the axle seals as you will not like to change them while the engine is in the car. completely refurbish the wiring in the engine bay to better than original daihatsu standard, install engine at enjoy your car again.

    I would also remove the distributor and do a full lubrication/seal job internally - that way I know for sure the distributor is perfect, it makes up for all the acceleration you expect.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    the oil cooler plate is mounted where the original oil filter sits right now, and the oil filter is then tightened on top of that oil cooler. If you look around in the market for a charade diesel or detomaso or Gtti engine you will see the part, The water pipes to the oil cooler are connected from the heater pipes.

    btw the headers look nice - but the pairing of the cylinders dont make much sense as this engine uses a 1-2-3 firing order rather than the usually accepted 1-3-2 firing order.

    anyways - good job, now clean the engine and thoroughly clean the carburettor and inlet manifold, replace the axle seals as you will not like to change them while the engine is in the car. completely refurbish the wiring in the engine bay to better than original daihatsu standard, install engine at enjoy your car again.

    I would also remove the distributor and do a full lubrication/seal job internally - that way I know for sure the distributor is perfect, it makes up for all the acceleration you expect.
    thanks alot sir i'll surely ask mechanic to do all these tasks....
    and i'll try get these headers chromed
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sharo53 View Post
    thanks alot sir i'll surely ask mechanic to do all these tasks....
    and i'll try get these headers chromed
    Useless as the engine heat will completely flake it off, Unless you hard chrome it, which you wont becuase just a hard chrome dip for that would cost about Rs 6000/- and it wont be mirror shiny
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    Useless as the engine heat will completely flake it off, Unless you hard chrome it, which you wont becuase just a hard chrome dip for that would cost about Rs 6000/- and it wont be mirror shiny
    and same were the comments from my mechanic...

    anyways the engine is in,, the car started...
    but we were having some problems with fuel pump and starter motor so had to leave car in the workshop...
    mechanic didn't allow to clean the engine as it is in guarantee of 7 days and the shopkeeper will not take back a clean engine....
    and had to visit bilalgunj tomorrow so will try to get that oil cooler thingy...
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    Quote Originally Posted by fahadsoulsnatcher911 View Post
    oh i bought a Ej-ve aka. Duets engine in 45k last week almost a new engine
    for which car?
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    i have soft copy.. no links.. forgot the links.. can email
    the problem is not our govt... its the people..

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    sharo.54@hotmail.com
    sir kindly send it at this id
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    any one having the diagram of vaccum pipes of charade g-11 (cb-23)?
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    where are the experts?
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    is your engine a CB23, and what sort of emmissions control equipment is on your engine? - by the looks it seems to have no EGR, no fresh air inlet for the exhaust catalyzer, The vacuum piping would be simple then.

    main vacuum to powervalve, main to distributor, main to ac idle up solenoid, and main to the blue vacuum pot, then a secondary from the carb throat to the sub of the distributor.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    is your engine a CB23, and what sort of emmissions control equipment is on your engine? - by the looks it seems to have no EGR, no fresh air inlet for the exhaust catalyzer, The vacuum piping would be simple then.

    main vacuum to powervalve, main to distributor, main to ac idle up solenoid, and main to the blue vacuum pot, then a secondary from the carb throat to the sub of the distributor.
    sory i have no info about its emmissions control equipment.. can you plz guide how to check ?
    sir main confusion is this thing..having three pipes and i dont where to connect to which one..
    charade engine swap- need suggestionsguidance -249365
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    that is the A/C idle up vacuum solenoid - only two pipes are used on it, one connects to main vacuum all the time and one connects to the A/C idle up diaphragm on the carburettor.

    Your car also has a purge canister - which connects to the sandwich block between the carburettor and the inlet manifold, - I dont know if your new engine has the correct port.

    PLEASE - for God's sake clean the engine room before putting in the engine - Safaee nisf eemaan hai.. That way you will see any wiring problems, rust, corrossion issues etc. It would be wise to also paint the engine block with fresh black paint if the original is rusted away. and replace all welch plugs (tikli) and the timing belt before putting the engine into the bay. Fill with coolant/water mix.

    Buy lengths of new and very good quality vacuum pipe - I dont know abt your place but in Karachi there is a market where I used to buy lengths of 2 and 3 feet pipes - and some PU pipe to replace long vacuum pipe runs - keeps the vacuum solid all the way.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    that is the A/C idle up vacuum solenoid - only two pipes are used on it, one connects to main vacuum all the time and one connects to the A/C idle up diaphragm on the carburettor.

    Your car also has a purge canister - which connects to the sandwich block between the carburettor and the inlet manifold, - I dont know if your new engine has the correct port.

    PLEASE - for God's sake clean the engine room before putting in the engine - Safaee nisf eemaan hai.. That way you will see any wiring problems, rust, corrossion issues etc. It would be wise to also paint the engine block with fresh black paint if the original is rusted away. and replace all welch plugs (tikli) and the timing belt before putting the engine into the bay. Fill with coolant/water mix.

    Buy lengths of new and very good quality vacuum pipe - I dont know abt your place but in Karachi there is a market where I used to buy lengths of 2 and 3 feet pipes - and some PU pipe to replace long vacuum pipe runs - keeps the vacuum solid all the way.
    and where should that 3rd pipe go?
    Two of them are connected as you told but still no increase rpm when i turn on the ac

    i dont know why for some strange reasons mechanic didnt agreed on cleaning of engine bay... But INSHALLAH soon you will see a clean engine bay and clean engine....
    Timing belt was checked throughly for wears n tears apperently it was in good condition but still i'll replace it after some time
    and sure ill change all vaccum pipes to good ones but let me uderstand its all vacum functions and correct order first
    thanks
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    the 3rd port has a filter lid on top not a pipe
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    sir can you plz tell me the best way to flush out the rust from the coolant vents??
    can i use some sort of acid? :s
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    just buy a regular coolant flush bottle it will be easier - you need some precautionary measures first.

    1 remove the thermostat so the water can actually start to move as soon as the engine starts.

    after the 1 hour drive you should drain the hot engine with the radiator bottom pipe, now insert a garden water pipe into the engine side and let it flow draining all the rest from the engine radiator, as the design prevents the block from draining, now connect the pipe once again and fill with water and add a tablespoon of meetha soda into a cup of water and pour into the radiator and run for at least 1 hour again to neutralise the acid.

    Once done repeat the drain/flush procedure, and verify any leaks - repair as necessary, install the thermostat with new flange gasket and fill with coolant/water and you are done, its best to put in a new radiator cap too.

    Before putting the engine into the car, check the coolant metal pipe that runs under the exhaust manifold, if its heavily rusted/corroded renew immediately, its a royal pain to replace with engine in the car.
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    just buy a regular coolant flush bottle it will be easier - you need some precautionary measures first.
    sir any particular name or any desi name for it?
    1 remove the thermostat so the water can actually start to move as soon as the engine starts.
    i think the thermostat is already not working properly coz as soon i start the engine i see moving water in radiator...
    after the 1 hour drive you should drain the hot engine with the radiator bottom pipe, now insert a garden water pipe into the engine side and let it flow draining all the rest from the engine radiator, as the design prevents the block from draining, now connect the pipe once again and fill with water and add a tablespoon of meetha soda into a cup of water and pour into the radiator and run for at least 1 hour again to neutralise the acid.
    you said to insert the pipe in engine side, means bottom pipe of the radiator?
    and can i leave engine idel for 1hour?

    Once done repeat the drain/flush procedure, and verify any leaks - repair as necessary, install the thermostat with new flange gasket and fill with coolant/water and you are done, its best to put in a new radiator cap too.
    sir i'll replace the complete radiator once im sure that no rust is left in it
    Before putting the engine into the car, check the coolant metal pipe that runs under the exhaust manifold, if its heavily rusted/corroded renew immediately, its a royal pain to replace with engine in the car


    that pipe was checked it was in great condition
    the engine is in and running fine i take it to 140KM/H at ring road...
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    liqui moly radiator cleaner..
    the problem is not our govt... its the people..

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    CB-23 manuals are available online

    wise decision though but so many things needed to be done yet...
    1. xulfiqar was so right...engine bay needs cleaning and so does wiring....

    2. please clean ur engine

    and enjoy one hell of a ride of charades

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