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Thread: Charade G30 Turbo Diesel Engine Non responsive

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    Default Charade G30 Turbo Diesel Engine Non responsive

    Salam to all pakwheels fellows.

    We have Charade G30 (1986) Turbo diesel with our family. From the past few weeks it has been facing startup problem specially in the morning despite the fact that it was summer season. But now engine has denied startup not only in the morning but at any given time in the whole day.

    Engine condition was below average but not weak 5 year ago when we bought. But from the past few months engine is generating huge thick cloud of black smoke when revved high on neutral. Moreover, oil leakage from seals has also increased. Considerable quantity of thick black oil is observed above exhaust manifold and turbo during the past 20 days or so.

    Does above signs are indicators of dead engine which needs overhauling and which course of action should we adopt to get the car back on road.

    (Further, we are very satisfied with performance and reliability of this diesel engine. Not a single engine related breakdown in the past 5 years except now and would like to keep this car with diesel engine)
    -

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    Yup, engine is dead. Nearly, same thing happened to my Nissan Sunny CD17 about 9 years back. Although it was non-turbo, but starting problem was almost the same as of yours. I had to overhaul engine and got it back on road.

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    Did you check the heater (Glow Plug )?
    Never loose hope in life,every step gives u something.

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    Quote Originally Posted by argtr65 View Post
    Did you check the heater (Glow Plug )?
    errrr not yet. Can i test glow plugs my self? coz engine isnt starting.
    -

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    Yes,you can test it with the help of 12 volt test light.First of all you will have to remove busbar from the heaters then connect one end of test lemp to battery +ve terminal and other end to heater's top,lamp should be glowed if heater is o.k.
    Never loose hope in life,every step gives u something.

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    has someone ever tried to start it with "petrol ka kapra"
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    has someone ever tried to start it with "petrol ka kapra"
    zulfiqar bhai shed some light on this whats is the actual scene
    saw this magic 2,3 time at workshop a wet cloth with petrol and just take it near the intake and bingo
    last time saw this on 2c 82 corolla

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    Petrol is highly explosive because of this its fume help out burning the diesel,If you pour petrol directly into combustion chamber then it could explode the cylinder head.
    Never loose hope in life,every step gives u something.

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    Quote Originally Posted by usman505 View Post
    zulfiqar bhai shed some light on this whats is the actual scene
    saw this magic 2,3 time at workshop a wet cloth with petrol and just take it near the intake and bingo
    last time saw this on 2c 82 corolla
    petrol is more volatile (bomb like) than diesel and self combusts at lower temperature. However if you start your diesel with this technique without disabling the glow plugs you will break the compression rings as the explosion happens way before the piston reaches TDC. The engine may start that one time but may have lost usable compression. Meaning its time to rering the pistons because some moron used the petrol sniff start technique.


    Most bad starting diesel engines in Pakistan are due to bad valve clearances (tappet) and stuck advance mechanisms on the injection pump (due to using well/river/lake water in the cooling system)
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Self editted

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    has someone ever tried to start it with "petrol ka kapra"
    Xulfiqar bhai. This car hasn't been a victim of petrol sniffing yet.

    Problem has been identified and is sort of embarrassing type.

    As my brother who drives this car is a student and students are usually low with cash in their pockets most of the time. So he drove the car to the limit where fuel needle drops to 'E' and kept on driving beyond that point till engine started coughing and car stopped.

    At the end, fuel lines and diesel filter including its assembly turned out to be choked with dirt from fuel tank.
    -

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    and interestingly 2 out of 3 mechanics said that engine is gone and must be overhauled
    -

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    Quote Originally Posted by sarmadraheem View Post
    and interestingly 2 out of 3 mechanics said that engine is gone and must be overhauled
    next time stay away from such mechanics, its basic procedure to check for fuel supply at the injectors. And running it out of fuel will not only require cleaning but also air bleeding first from the pump then the high pressure injector lines.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    The mechanic I visit is a diesel expert, I actually was introduced to him around twelve years back when nobody in Islamabad could make my dying diesel corolla engine work as I had no funds to repair it and had to sell the car. Nobody even came near the engine and he was the only one who made it work. I can hook u up with him if u wish to get the engine a proper checkup, he feels really happy to see the rare diesel cars now :-)
    Apart from pakwheels, my blogs can be also be viewed at http://tajziat.blogspot.com/

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    next time stay away from such mechanics, its basic procedure to check for fuel supply at the injectors. And running it out of fuel will not only require cleaning but also air bleeding first from the pump then the high pressure injector lines.
    Next time will take care xulfiqar bhai
    -

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    Quote Originally Posted by bilalahm View Post
    The mechanic I visit is a diesel expert, I actually was introduced to him around twelve years back when nobody in Islamabad could make my dying diesel corolla engine work as I had no funds to repair it and had to sell the car. Nobody even came near the engine and he was the only one who made it work. I can hook u up with him if u wish to get the engine a proper checkup, he feels really happy to see the rare diesel cars now :-)
    Sir, for now problem is solved. But engine really is in weak condition. Kindly give me his contact no. I might need him in future.
    -

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    before you choose to "repair" your engine, keep these points in mind

    1 you need a brand new genuine crankshaft pulley/timing gear bolt
    2 you need brand new cylinder head bolts
    3 you need new connecting rod cap bolts
    4 you need a dial gauge to adjust the injection timing
    5 you need a proper torque ratchet to tighten all engine fasteners.
    6 you need proper flange sealants to seal down the engine
    7 your engine coolant passages should not be corroded from the cylinder head or block surface - and you should only use a diesel rated coolant in it along with its original thermostat valve.

    you need to follow correct procedure to adjust valve tappets - no grinding etc of the valves or buckets, if the buckets are collapsed you need new buckets (bucket = tappet follower aka dabboo in mechanic terms)

    your injection pump should be tested on a flowbench for correct injection volume and delivery both with and without boost of 8 psi (OE boost pressure)


    Ideally you should test the compression pressure first, diesel compression testers are expensive to buy as they measure near 400~500 psi of compression pressure in the cylinders.

    If you follow the correct procedures the engine will start at a flick, be very reliable, quiet and cheap as a CD70 too.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    @Xulfiqar, you are aware that in our land an engine rebuilt for a charade that cost above 25K is labelled "loot liya" are you ? :-)
    Apart from pakwheels, my blogs can be also be viewed at http://tajziat.blogspot.com/

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    before you choose to "repair" your engine, keep these points in mind

    1 you need a brand new genuine crankshaft pulley/timing gear bolt
    2 you need brand new cylinder head bolts
    3 you need new connecting rod cap bolts
    4 you need a dial gauge to adjust the injection timing
    5 you need a proper torque ratchet to tighten all engine fasteners.
    6 you need proper flange sealants to seal down the engine
    7 your engine coolant passages should not be corroded from the cylinder head or block surface - and you should only use a diesel rated coolant in it along with its original thermostat valve.

    you need to follow correct procedure to adjust valve tappets - no grinding etc of the valves or buckets, if the buckets are collapsed you need new buckets (bucket = tappet follower aka dabboo in mechanic terms)

    your injection pump should be tested on a flowbench for correct injection volume and delivery both with and without boost of 8 psi (OE boost pressure)


    Ideally you should test the compression pressure first, diesel compression testers are expensive to buy as they measure near 400~500 psi of compression pressure in the cylinders.

    If you follow the correct procedures the engine will start at a flick, be very reliable, quiet and cheap as a CD70 too.
    Xulfiqar bhai, from the list you mentioned i can assure that point no 1,2,3,5,6 and 7 are done properly. For the rest including, tappets, fuel pump and compression which mechanic in rawalpindi or islamabad should i consult.

    As far as cost is concerned i am prepared to spend well over Rs.25K on it coz this engine has been very very smooth and problem free during 4 years of its service with us. Not a single breakdown due to engine issues in its life.
    -

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