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Thread: CVT Start Clutch Calibration - The AUTEL Way

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    Default CVT Start Clutch Calibration - The AUTEL Way

    ALHAMDULILLAH

    I had been looking for a bi-directional scan tool since long and been saving up for it. Finally the much awaited tool arrived yesterday. And I thought of sharing it with fellow members along with posting the first tool application.

    The Steermatic battery had completely drained in the past couple of days and the ECU forgot about the CVT start clutch calibration. Sadly this happens everytime if the battery is disconnected or it completely discharges.

    So instead of the old "drive upto 60 and decelerate method" suggested in ESM, I thought of putting the tool to some use.


    But before I proceed, I must thank the one person who made it possible for me to decide. Without his input, I would have ended up with a wrong choice or some chinese clone.

    The one and only, our teacher, our automotive mentor, our guru and our respectful elder brother @Xulfiqar bhai.

    Thanks alot Xulfiqar bhai.

    CVT Start Clutch Calibration  The AUTEL Way -1457460

    ----------------------------------------------------

    Okay here we go

    CVT Start Clutch Calibration  The AUTEL Way -1457456

    CVT Start Clutch Calibration  The AUTEL Way -1457457

    CVT Start Clutch Calibration  The AUTEL Way -1457458

    CVT Start Clutch Calibration  The AUTEL Way -1457459


    Proof of Product Authenticity (Online Registration)

    CVT Start Clutch Calibration  The AUTEL Way -1457455


    Now the Calibration Procedure.

    CVT Start Clutch Calibration  The AUTEL Way -1457461

    CVT Start Clutch Calibration  The AUTEL Way -1457462

    CVT Start Clutch Calibration  The AUTEL Way -1457463

    CVT Start Clutch Calibration  The AUTEL Way -1457464

    CVT Start Clutch Calibration  The AUTEL Way -1457465

    CVT Start Clutch Calibration  The AUTEL Way -1457466

    CVT Start Clutch Calibration  The AUTEL Way -1457468

    CVT Start Clutch Calibration  The AUTEL Way -1457469



    Question: So whats my point:

    The point is: when your CVT starts giving poor idle in D (excessive vibarations), and idles itself all fine in N, you would want to calibrate you r transmission start clutch. Most Honda dealerships and some "gheroo-program" mechanics advise throttle body service, engine/tranny mounting replacements, valve body replacements and what not.

    However, its just a couple of steps in procedure to get it back on road hassle free.

    Happy CVT driving. Cheers

    JazakAllah
    The Soul's Journey After Death in Islam (www.bit.ly/SoulsJourney) -- Originally Shared by kse101

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    rustam - you have entered a world where you cannot go back - the fascination will lead you into the deep depths of it - specially if you like to play with electric networks.
    Hmm. You are right. Its intriguing to explore new features each day. Sadly I can get access to Honda's only.

    By the way (not related to CVT), what does it mean by "DBW Stuck Ratio = 100" Percent.

    Does the Throttle Body Require Cleanup??? I tested it in the TP Position check menu. The response sounds snappy. (at 24%-then 35% then 48% and finally 80%) and the test returned PASS. However I didnt remove the air cleaner to physically inspect. The feedback values were lining up with commanded but after 2 seconds at each step.

    Kindly advise..

    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post

    connect it to a chrysler (if you can - there are some voyager vans in Pakistan) and see how it commands the 4spd ultradrive to shift - and then see what it does if you have the wrong ATF in it.

    its more like this - if you want to act it like a drama

    command center - SHIFT INTO 2nd speed smoothly
    control feedback - yessir - shift is too quick
    command center - release immediately - initiate shift again
    control feedback - shift too quick...
    command center - release and initiate again
    control feedback - shift too quick and ATF is starting to heat up.
    command center
    CVT Start Clutch Calibration  The AUTEL Way -1462051

    ^^ CHECK ENGINE LIGHT
    Hahahaha. You sure know the psyche of auto tranny controllers.

    Now I just need a chrysler . Great

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    And an Update to all readers of the thread.

    The VITZ 1KR-FE coupled with K410 CVT doesnt not allow start clutch calibration as it is coupled with a torque converter.

    However, after ECU or transaxle replacements, the Zero Point Calibration and CVT Oil Pressure Calibration is required.

    Source:
    ftp://79.135.211.28/YARIS%20MANUALS/K41A%20-%20CVT.pdf

    Page: 38

    I came to know this while working on a fellow PW member's car. And afterwards discussing with our Guru. So pardon my earlier ignorance. @chinyoti


    Rest @Xulfiqar bhai can explain the reasons for default low idle in this car. For a 3 cylinder car, we found it to idle at around 730 rpm. even in D. My honda 4 cylinder idles at 760 in N and at 810 in D.

    Keep in mind the more the cylinders, the lower the idle can be set before engine vibrations start shaking up the chassis.
    The Soul's Journey After Death in Islam (www.bit.ly/SoulsJourney) -- Originally Shared by kse101

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    the most PMs I get for this calibration failure always points to a popped air bag or flooded car situation. The transaxle wont work correctly without it.

    For the toy CVT - make absolute sure that the CVT fluid is in serviceable condition before commencing any repair.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    I have a Lancer 1.3 with CV tranny. Sometimes the car gives excessive jerks while i stop on red slight in D position also its RPM remain between 1500~ 2000 whenever battery get disconnect due to any reason for few hours. What should i do for these issues?

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    Quote Originally Posted by rustam54 View Post
    Hmm. You are right. Its intriguing to explore new features each day. Sadly I can get access to Honda's only.

    By the way (not related to CVT), what does it mean by "DBW Stuck Ratio = 100" Percent.

    Does the Throttle Body Require Cleanup??? I tested it in the TP Position check menu. The response sounds snappy. (at 24%-then 35% then 48% and finally 80%) and the test returned PASS. However I didnt remove the air cleaner to physically inspect. The feedback values were lining up with commanded but after 2 seconds at each step.

    Kindly advise..



    Hahahaha. You sure know the psyche of auto tranny controllers.

    Now I just need a chrysler . Great

    The throttle plate test is command and feedback test, it verifies that the plate is responding to the commanded position. If the test passes then you are clear. btw cleaning of the throttle does not mean "throttlebody ko ghusl-e-mayyat karajaye"

    gently clean the edges of the blade with a rag soaked in cleaner.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    The throttle plate test is command and feedback test, it verifies that the plate is responding to the commanded position. If the test passes then you are clear. btw cleaning of the throttle does not mean "throttlebody ko ghusl-e-mayyat karajaye"

    gently clean the edges of the blade with a rag soaked in cleaner.
    Hmm. I understand.


    By the way, what would you say to the parameter "DBW STuck Ratio =100" Percent.

    When I reset the ECU, the first ten minutes are CKP Pattern Learn plus Idle Learn (given that Engine is around 82 DegC). During that time, since i dont press peddle, the Ratio is around 10-15 percent.

    However, when I start using the car, or press throttle once or twice, it goes to 100 after one or two steps. Do you have any clue what this parameter means??
    The Soul's Journey After Death in Islam (www.bit.ly/SoulsJourney) -- Originally Shared by kse101

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    Quote Originally Posted by lahori View Post
    I have a Lancer 1.3 with CV tranny. Sometimes the car gives excessive jerks while i stop on red slight in D position also its RPM remain between 1500~ 2000 whenever battery get disconnect due to any reason for few hours. What should i do for these issues?
    I wont have much clue about your question as I havnt yet worked on a Mitsu. There can be many reasons.

    However, i have noticed the same increase in RPM in the 2007 XLI. After ECU reset, it took about 1 or 2 minutes for the ECU to settle the IDLE. even though the throttle has a stop screw to adjust idle, yet the IACV takes some time to allow it to drop down. Dont know why.


    A few hours is a long time for idle self adjust. You might want to get it inspected by a Mitsu competent person.
    The Soul's Journey After Death in Islam (www.bit.ly/SoulsJourney) -- Originally Shared by kse101

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    Quote Originally Posted by rustam54 View Post
    Hmm. I understand.


    By the way, what would you say to the parameter "DBW STuck Ratio =100" Percent.

    When I reset the ECU, the first ten minutes are CKP Pattern Learn plus Idle Learn (given that Engine is around 82 DegC). During that time, since i dont press peddle, the Ratio is around 10-15 percent.

    However, when I start using the car, or press throttle once or twice, it goes to 100 after one or two steps. Do you have any clue what this parameter means??

    If I recall reading on this - its the infamous gunking test - meaning that if its getting stuck at below 100% then the plate needs cleaning. Honestly I never saw one that required it though. I have seen one toyota corolla throttle get stuck in closed position (water corrossion)

    When you press the throttle - its not linear like cable systems, if will vary depending on vehicle speed and applied/required power. Hence it may even open fully for a half second or so - it then records the max value eventually.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Rustam bhai,

    did you get a chance to mess with a 1krfe vitz regarding the vibration and knocking problem.

    a close friend is having this issue with his vitz, whenever he goes to any workshop or any tuning place the problem seems to go away for a couple of days, then it returns again.

    fuel average isn't good enough either, it is just doing 11-12
    haters gonna hate, potatoes gonna potate

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    Quote Originally Posted by margallar View Post
    Rustam bhai,

    did you get a chance to mess with a 1krfe vitz regarding the vibration and knocking problem.

    a close friend is having this issue with his vitz, whenever he goes to any workshop or any tuning place the problem seems to go away for a couple of days, then it returns again.

    fuel average isn't good enough either, it is just doing 11-12
    Sir, I worked on that particular 1KR-FE that I mentioned before for vibration issue. Not knocking

    Like i said before, the idle is factory set very low. There is one jugaar suggested by a mechanic to insert a padding in the accelerator sensor that raises rpm in IDLE. I find it to be a dangerous solution as padding can get stuck anywhere and would pose problem.

    Furthermore, the vibrations were increasing becuase the Idle Air Control (Not IACV) was not responding quickly to electrical load of lights. It would allow the rpm to drop till 600 range under certain conditions. Although it would pre-judge the AC on button and would raise rpm before clutch engagement, it would respond slow to either electrical load or putting the car in D.


    Regarding knocking, you should check what fuel you friend is using. I am not talking about high octane. Which brand actually?? Has he ever replaced plugs with so called PERFORMANCE upgrades?? What's the gap set at??

    We can plot the knock retard parameter to see under what conditions the car is problematic??
    You'll have to excuse me as I am less knowledgeable about Toyota's (for now :-) )
    The Soul's Journey After Death in Islam (www.bit.ly/SoulsJourney) -- Originally Shared by kse101

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    bro the plugs are the same as the factory recommended ones (although bought from pakwheels, which makes me question their originality).

    i can't comment about the fuel at the moment, since it isn't my car

    but the car used to run fine on regular petrol when it was bought
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    Can it be used in corolla altis for rough and jumping RPM.How much this device/tool Cost

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    Quote Originally Posted by rustam54 View Post
    Sir, I worked on that particular 1KR-FE that I mentioned before for vibration issue. Not knocking

    Like i said before, the idle is factory set very low. There is one jugaar suggested by a mechanic to insert a padding in the accelerator sensor that raises rpm in IDLE. I find it to be a dangerous solution as padding can get stuck anywhere and would pose problem.

    Furthermore, the vibrations were increasing becuase the IACV was not responding quickly to electrical load of lights. It would allow the rpm to drop till 600 range under certain conditions. Although it would pre-judge the AC on button and would raise rpm before clutch engagement, it would respond slow to either electrical load or putting the car in D.


    Regarding knocking, you should check what fuel you friend is using. I am not talking about high octane. Which brand actually?? Has he ever replaced plugs with so called PERFORMANCE upgrades?? What's the gap set at??

    We can plot the knock retard parameter to see under what conditions the car is problematic??
    You'll have to excuse me as I am less knowledgeable about Toyota's (for now :-) )
    r u sure Vitz 0.1L 1KR-FE CVT has IACV?

    I think when there is ETCS then there is no need for any IACV

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    Oh sorry my bad. Yes ETCS. You are correct. What I meant to say was Idle Air Control and not IACV

    Glad you dropped by on the thread. What thoughts do you have on correcting this low idle in vitz. How can we fool the ECM at IDLE APP value, yet feed it with correct TPS value?? In the meanwhile monitoring the rpm??
    The Soul's Journey After Death in Islam (www.bit.ly/SoulsJourney) -- Originally Shared by kse101

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    For the knocking - check the VVTi control solenoid. if it gets a bit lazy, the engine will behave extremely silly - if the cam phaser is sticky in advance then you get bad idle.

    Just recently (as in last night) fixed this problem on a 2AZ-FE Camry. The car had super bad fuel economy too.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Any way to test it without a scanner. Like with a multimeter?

    can it give problems if just the strainer/filter is clogged?
    haters gonna hate, potatoes gonna potate

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    Quote Originally Posted by margallar View Post
    Any way to test it without a scanner. Like with a multimeter?

    can it give problems if just the strainer/filter is clogged?
    toyota are not like Honda VTEC which have a small strainer, they have a control solenoid that routes oil to the advance or retard side of the cam phaser (which is run off the timing drive system)

    I have seen them go bad - in some cases the engine completely falters, stalls and refuses to start.
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    Is it somewhere near the pulleys on the 1krfe?
    haters gonna hate, potatoes gonna potate

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    the solenoids are always at right angle to the cams because they control oil flow in two ports, the phaser is on the cam itself.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    For the knocking - check the VVTi control solenoid. if it gets a bit lazy, the engine will behave extremely silly - if the cam phaser is sticky in advance then you get bad idle.

    Just recently (as in last night) fixed this problem on a 2AZ-FE Camry. The car had super bad fuel economy too.
    cam phaser is the vvt pulley which has helical gears, right?
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