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    Default Engine Heating Problem Honda City 2000

    Asalam alikum..

    My honda city 2000 d15b having strange problem, some times it heats in traffic jam, and when i get away from traffic jam it becomes cool.. I m unable to find the actuall problem.. but when i check the radiator it requires coolant.. i just refile from tap water and start drive again.. and when i discuss from my mohalla mechanic he said that radiator is choke.. I just wants to know the actuall problem..

    One more thing is that i put 2 liter of toyota's coolant made in USA almost 3 months before this problem and now i think there is no sign of coolant in radiator..

    2nd i wants to know that is there any valve which opens n close to regulate coolant from radiator to engine or engine to radiator which is not opening..?


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    If you're getting a "chuk or phuk" sound while opening radiator cap at cold (in the morning) you have a head gasket leak from the exhaust side. This means you will never see water and oil mixing but the engine will heat up whenever you will pull hard or use the car under extreme conditions. You system is leaking exhaust gases in to the combustion chamber and is probably not sucking water back in from the over flow reservoir this is because these is no negative pressure in your system due to the presence of exhaust gases.

    You can continue to run like this but eventually water will start seeping to your plugs overnight and you will experience some misfiring in the morning.

    When i owned this particular city, i replaced hg twice and both times i had the same symptoms.

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    Quote Originally Posted by fahadwizz View Post
    If you're getting a "chuk or phuk" sound while opening radiator cap at cold (in the morning) you have a head gasket leak from the exhaust side. This means you will never see water and oil mixing but the engine will heat up whenever you will pull hard or use the car under extreme conditions. You system is leaking exhaust gases in to the combustion chamber and is probably not sucking water back in from the over flow reservoir this is because these is no negative pressure in your system due to the presence of exhaust gases.

    You can continue to run like this but eventually water will start seeping to your plugs overnight and you will experience some misfiring in the morning.

    When i owned this particular city, i replaced hg twice and both times i had the same symptoms.
    NO,

    that is not true. the puk sound is due to a pressure differential and based on the same principle when you open a bottle of fizzy drink.

    The health of the gasket may only be determined by inspecting its sealing properties; i.e the oil and water test.

    now I have asked the OP to check and determine that health positively, before suggesting ways to fixing the problem.

    He may not need to change the gasket at all; but lets see.

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    Quote Originally Posted by salman108 View Post
    NO,

    that is not true. the puk sound is due to a pressure differential and based on the same principle when you open a bottle of fizzy drink.

    The health of the gasket may only be determined by inspecting its sealing properties; i.e the oil and water test.

    now I have asked the OP to check and determine that health positively, before suggesting ways to fixing the problem.

    He may not need to change the gasket at all; but lets see.

    As the engine cools down, water contracts causing negative pressure. In a trouble free system, this helps the suction of coolant from overflow tank. In a system filled with exhaust gases, there is no suction and when the cap is opened in the morning, it makes a "phuk" sound "Exactly" like a "Soda Can" because Soda Can also has positive pressure which is relieved when its opened hence teh sound.

    If you want to do tests, just go with cylinder leak down test or check the plugs. You'll probably find a bit of rust on one of the plugs... in my case it was always cylinder #1.

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    When my city developed this problem, i started with simplest solutions such as,

    1. Replacing coolant
    2. Bleeding with Nose Up
    3. Replacing Tstat
    4. Replacing Rad Cap.
    5. Replacing Water Pump
    6. Replacing Radiator and all hoses
    7. Eventually Replaced HG but i did not regret replacing all the other parts because they were well passed their age and needed replacement anyways. This way i could have a vehicle i could really rely on.

    This was done with the help of @Xulfiqar

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    Quote Originally Posted by fahadwizz View Post
    When my city developed this problem, i started with simplest solutions such as,

    1. Replacing coolant
    2. Bleeding with Nose Up
    3. Replacing Tstat
    4. Replacing Rad Cap.
    5. Replacing Water Pump
    6. Replacing Radiator and all hoses
    7. Eventually Replaced HG but i did not regret replacing all the other parts because they were well passed their age and needed replacement anyways. This way i could have a vehicle i could really rely on.

    This was done with the help of @Xulfiqar

    I do not agree with it since I find it to be irrational.
    but you are entitled to your opinion.

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    Quote Originally Posted by salman108 View Post
    I do not agree with it since I find it to be irrational.
    but you are entitled to your opinion.
    Sorry irrational how ?

    Its not an opinion.

    Are you saying the only way Head gasket is shot when oil and water end up mixing ?

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    Quote Originally Posted by fahadwizz View Post
    Sorry irrational how ?

    Its not an opinion.

    Are you saying the only way Head gasket is shot when oil and water end up mixing ?
    1. Replacing coolant
    2. Bleeding with Nose Up
    3. Replacing Tstat
    4. Replacing Rad Cap.
    5. Replacing Water Pump
    6. Replacing Radiator and all hoses
    7. Eventually Replaced

    this amounts to almost redoing the whole cooling system in steps; without establishing a root cause first.
    Therefore it is irrational.

    As for the gasket, oil & water mixing is the most obvious result of a completely shot head gasket.

    I have seen instances where the gasket was incorrectly installed, or a a good gasket misbehaving due to excessive pressure.

    In the later case, we did not change the gasket, only fixed the pressure issue.

    Let the OP come back with results and then we will see what is the next step.

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    So do you think its a bad idea to replace,

    1. Water Pump
    2. Radiator Cap
    3. Thermostat
    4. Old Hoses

    of a 15 years old car ?

    And mixing of oil and water only occurs if the HG is shot from that particular location.. It can be totally shot from other places aswell.

    We had a Baleno which was loosing coolant voilently from spark plug slots but did not mix coolangt and oil...

    About HG not sealing properly, happens after new HG is installed and not torqued properly... retourqing may help but an old gasket usually never loses its seal just like that.

    How do you solve overheating by solving "pressure issues" standard Honda runs at 1.3 Bar... Don;t tell me by using a low pressure cap you reduce the overall system pressure because it is not the right way to solve an overheating issue. A 1.3 Bar system should have hoses and all other parts strong enough to hold the pressure. Thats i always replaces old hoses while replacing the rad Cap.

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    Quote Originally Posted by fahadwizz View Post
    So do you think its a bad idea to replace,

    1. Water Pump
    2. Radiator Cap
    3. Thermostat
    4. Old Hoses

    of a 15 years old car ?

    And mixing of oil and water only occurs if the HG is shot from that particular location.. It can be totally shot from other places aswell.

    We had a Baleno which was loosing coolant voilently from spark plug slots but did not mix coolangt and oil...

    About HG not sealing properly, happens after new HG is installed and not torqued properly... retourqing may help but an old gasket usually never loses its seal just like that.

    How do you solve overheating by solving "pressure issues" standard Honda runs at 1.3 Bar... Don;t tell me by using a low pressure cap you reduce the overall system pressure because it is not the right way to solve an overheating issue. A 1.3 Bar system should have hoses and all other parts strong enough to hold the pressure. Thats i always replaces old hoses while replacing the rad Cap.
    By your rationale, why shall the engine not be replaced of a 15 year old car ?
    how about the gear box, the differential , and why leave out the body parts ?

    I am not here to debate my friend.

    I expressed my opinion based upon my experience.

    You are free to base your opinion and practice as you please.

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    Yaar I m totally confuse now after this long discussion, as I m not too much expert so plz guide me simply that what should I do to get rid from this..

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    Quote Originally Posted by salman108 View Post
    By your rationale, why shall the engine not be replaced of a 15 year old car ?
    how about the gear box, the differential , and why leave out the body parts ?

    I am not here to debate my friend.

    I expressed my opinion based upon my experience.

    You are free to base your opinion and practice as you please.
    If we are to handle the system pressure by running low pressure caps and not replacing "routine" parts then alot of people do replace engine much sooner than 15 years.

    The car in the picture is bone stock with each every thing to factory spec. If something is broken or worn off it is replaced. It has 115K on ODO and still runs fully synthetic 10w30. It is a prosmatec.

    I clocked over 200k on my 2001 City on stock engine and is currently in use of a close friend. Every thing is at factory spec..

    I also have 2004 Vario with 135K on stock motor. It was a mess when i bought it, at the moment its a 100% trouble free car because all hanky panky ustidian have been removed....

    At OP, Brother there is no shotcut to fixing on overheating Honda. You can search the threads throughly, if you wan't fix the car and wan't it to reliable you WILL have to fix EVERYTHING related to cooling system. If you have been running plain water in your radiator, you need to get the water pump checked. It starts loosing its shrouds, it should be checked and if required replaced.

    Next is to check your Radiator Cap and thermostat, replace if they are out of stock configuration. You need an OEM 1.3 Bar Cap...If you're running anything lower you might end up blowing old rusty pipes or Radiator. If that happens go ahead and replace. Get everything in order and than check if problem presists. If it does, you should check the HG. Although with the positive pressure on cold engine and hard hoses in the morning, i am almost certain that you are loosing combustion into the system. Now that could have happened because of weak water pump...

    Weak Water Pump >>>> Over heating>>> HG blown.

    Thats the reason i wouldnt suggest replacing HG as the first line of action. If you replace HG now you car will probably run fine for a while until it gets blown again due to out of spec system.


    Possible expense

    1. Water Pump ... 1600/-
    2. OEM CAP form HONDA 1300-1500/-
    3. HOSES - Depends on quality
    4. Radiator 5 - 6K (plastic housing)
    5. HG metal one (3-5K)
    6. Labor should be 5K

    You need a professional job for HG, Most mechanics will try to force you to use cardboard Gasket,,, why because its easier to replace and seals better initially but gives up underload.

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    Quote Originally Posted by fahadwizz View Post
    If we are to handle the system pressure by running low pressure caps and not replacing "routine" parts then alot of people do replace engine much sooner than 15 years.

    The car in the picture is bone stock with each every thing to factory spec. If something is broken or worn off it is replaced. It has 115K on ODO and still runs fully synthetic 10w30. It is a prosmatec.

    I clocked over 200k on my 2001 City on stock engine and is currently in use of a close friend. Every thing is at factory spec..

    I also have 2004 Vario with 135K on stock motor. It was a mess when i bought it, at the moment its a 100% trouble free car because all hanky panky ustidian have been removed....

    At OP, Brother there is no shotcut to fixing on overheating Honda. You can search the threads throughly, if you wan't fix the car and wan't it to reliable you WILL have to fix EVERYTHING related to cooling system. If you have been running plain water in your radiator, you need to get the water pump checked. It starts loosing its shrouds, it should be checked and if required replaced.

    Next is to check your Radiator Cap and thermostat, replace if they are out of stock configuration. You need an OEM 1.3 Bar Cap...If you're running anything lower you might end up blowing old rusty pipes or Radiator. If that happens go ahead and replace. Get everything in order and than check if problem presists. If it does, you should check the HG. Although with the positive pressure on cold engine and hard hoses in the morning, i am almost certain that you are loosing combustion into the system. Now that could have happened because of weak water pump...

    Weak Water Pump >>>> Over heating>>> HG blown.

    Thats the reason i wouldnt suggest replacing HG as the first line of action. If you replace HG now you car will probably run fine for a while until it gets blown again due to out of spec system.


    Possible expense

    1. Water Pump ... 1600/-
    2. OEM CAP form HONDA 1300-1500/-
    3. HOSES - Depends on quality
    4. Radiator 5 - 6K (plastic housing)
    5. HG metal one (3-5K)
    6. Labor should be 5K

    You need a professional job for HG, Most mechanics will try to force you to use cardboard Gasket,,, why because its easier to replace and seals better initially but gives up underload.
    Radiator changed before 6 months back
    What is CAP..?
    Engine installed in feb 2014, me drive it almost 20k..
    I think, I should change water pump & Head Gasket..
    What u say.?

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    Quote Originally Posted by uk.usmankhan View Post
    Radiator changed before 6 months back
    What is CAP..?
    Engine installed in feb 2014, me drive it almost 20k..
    I think, I should change water pump & Head Gasket..
    What u say.?
    Start with checking pump, replace, also do the timing belt and bearing. Since you got a kabli engine you should really get the timing belt.

    Radiator Cap AkA Dhakkan.

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    Quote Originally Posted by uk.usmankhan View Post
    Radiator changed before 6 months back
    What is CAP..?
    Engine installed in feb 2014, me drive it almost 20k..
    I think, I should change water pump & Head Gasket..
    What u say.?
    Once you have the oil checked for frothing, like so



    next step is to ensure the radiator allow enough water to pass through and it is not clogged.

    First check the thermostat valve's condition; they get clogged very easily. Next move to the radiator.

    I have a feeling that is where the problem may most probably be.

    A clogged radiator does not allow enough water to circulate, thus causing too much steam and stress out the gasket.

    I have used an infrared thermometer to see check the radiator's heat dissipation.

    If you don't have one, please disconnect the return hose, and feed the radiator with an abundant supply of water.
    Do this once the car is hot enough for the thermostat valve to be open.

    Water should come out of the engine hot, and freely.

    Let us know, how that goes and we will guide you next.

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