Aoa frnds jo log City Exi ya Exis rakhty hn wo yhan par apni problems,parts availabity,suggestions,resale or boht kuch k lye yahan post kr sakty han
( CONTENT COPIED FROM THE THREAD HONDA CITY FAN CLUB )
(Maintainence schedule added at the end)
Hi guys..!!! I thought we should have a Fan club for honda city Exi and Exis.There are already fourms for City but no forum is dedicated to 2nd generation city. Well the history of this car is somewhat like this...
Second generation City (2000-2003) On January 20th 2000, Honda replaced the original City of 1997 with an update.This model of city had the basic shape of its predecessor.but with new crystal head lamps at the front,power side view mirrors and a chrome lining around the rear numberplate garnish.It was the first car in pakistan to have rear crystal headlights.It had two varients. Exi and Exi-s.The Exi had manual windows and side view mirrors,body colored licence plate garnish(not chromed), semi-fabric seat covers, 165/13 tyres,black door mirrors and no high mount stop lamp.But the Exi-s had all these things in it.The outside looked more gracefull with crystal lights and some new lines on the exterior.The engine in both of them were same.But this one had Programed fuel injection(PGM-Fi).There was optional 4-speed automatic transmission available. The engine engine's maximum horse power=90/6400 and maximum torque =11.5/4700 This model was produced until 2003
There have been a lot of queries regarding the maintainence shedule of Honda City. To help find members and guests find this information easily and quickly, i am writing the complete maintainence shedule which i have been following for the past 5 years for my car (180,000kms).Cost of completing the job may/may not be stated. Some of it may not be the same as that in maintainence book provided by Honda people. In that case, i ll state the reason of the difference.Here goes.
Havoline formula 10W30 (3.7ltr) and oil filter change @ 3000kms. Cost 1900rs
Transmission oil (Manual transmission) 2 ltr @ 40,000kms.
Honda original oil 1980rs (2ltr)
Good quality Zic/ micking oil 800rs (2ltr)
Keep it topped up and change only if padel feels very soft n goes wayy down.
Honda original oil
Clutch operation oil
Keep it topped up and change only if you it shows signs of trouble
Brake pads change:-
recommended @ 30,000kms
Can use any good quality pads. (labour 400rs for 4 wheels plus pads, from 500rs to 2500rs)
Fuel filter change @ 40,000kms (IF driven on petrol)
Air filter change @ 10,000kms Original Honda filter is best.Good quality guard filter is good too.
980rs for OEM, 350rs for Guard filter.
Spark plugs @ 20,000kms
Throttle body service @ 20,000kms Cost around 500rs
Tappets adjustment / valve clearence @ 20,000kms Cost around 500rs
Brake adjustment front not required after pads change. rear @ 30,000kms (or when front pads changed)
Expected Life of Some parts:-
Brake pads 35,000kms if driven aggressively ( cost already mentioned)
Clutch plate 110,000kms if driven aggressively ( around 2000rs labour and 6000rs for clutch+pressure plate)
Clutch bearing 150,000kms (So change with clutch plate) (800rs)
Tuneups can be delayed to 30,000kms IF the car is run in clean enviornment like in Islamabad etc (less dust)
Engine oil change can be delays to 5,000kms but not good in long run.
Tip for keeping automatic transmission healthy on CNG:-
Change engine oil at 3,000kms MAX.
Tranny oil at 30,000kms
Tune up (throttle and valve clearence) at 20,000kms
Do NOT ignore idleing problems. Rough idleing means jerks to transmission and thats what kills it on CNG.
Keep air filter clean and change at 10,000kms max.
Besides, when I turn the blower on, it throws dust particles, quite many. Also, an electrician said that your car is not sealed. It's taking air from outside which is why interior gets dust when parked even with windows closed. Any help?
I visited Sabir bhai AC shop, the one recommended by Xulfiqar bhai, and he said that this car does not have Cabin Air Filter. It sounds bit indigestible for me, but, given the amount of experience, I'll take his word on this matter.
Unable to find maintenance schedule for timing belt replacement on this car? How much the belt cost? and average labor for replacement? Besides, a good mechanic to get this job done as it requires bit attention to detail else things may go haywire in a jiffy.
(content copied from another thread for faster reply)
I am facing a problem in my city sx8 2001 model.
Bought this car 2 months ago and it had several suspension problems
1: While driving in mid speed (60-80 km/h) a car was floating on plain road
(Lower control arms had problem as rubber grip which is near of engine bay were almost flat. )
(steering rack was also messed up after fixing lower control arms, steering rack was very dirty and had an oil + water as mechaninc said and the shaft was cutted / out of balance and not able to repair so changed it.) (Problem was fixed but some nosies remaining and left side is little bit hard to turn)
2: While turning on left side specially on reverse there was some hard knocking voice like tuk tuk tuk
(Outer CV joint of passenger side was problematic and worn out so changed it.) but voice is still here and seems like the c.v joint was not a good quality or there might be C.V inner joint is problematic too in my opinion.Problem is somehow remaining
3: Car is vibrating specially people who sit on back seat feel it well and i also feel that while driving, car had cng and i removed it and it's height is also increased from rear end, i am thinking that there might be some spacers and due to that spacers my driving pleaseure is ruinned. car is jumping mostly vertically. Wheel Allignement guy said that the springs need to be replaced and due to cng cylinder they were comperessed and now after removing cng cylinder these springs are free so they are bouncing enough i have a feeling of loose grip from rear end.
4: Engine is changed by previous owner and it is D15b7 and now tried to tune on petrol setting, throttle body was bad (monster drinking fuel) almost 7 KM / Liter and now changed (bought a second hand T.B without sensor) and now it is better on fuel but car looses it's power certainly when switch on a/c idle is set on around 850 rpm and choke works fine too. Engine temp is also normal. valve / Tappets setting is now on fuel as per mechanic. (As per my observation the fuel avg is around 10-11 Km / Liter and it should be 13 )
suggest a good economical guy or any solotuion specailly about C.V joints.