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Thread: more hp outa honda civic reborn

  1. #1
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    Default more hp outa honda civic reborn

    hi....dudes..i've got a honda civic 1.8......can u plzzzz help how to get more HP out of it....n wat wud b the possible cost....somthng if i wana reach to 200 bhp....plzzzz reply
    Drivin Benzez...with no benifits....
    Not bad..huh..for some imigrants..

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dawar



    Agreee wid Storm ! now thats what you call a very comprehensive, well referenced ( the hemi one) and logical (Z06 ) with historical refs too... very informative -- I suggested him in my first reply To go for some thing which is made to go fast like the Civic Si or the Type R- mugen RR etc or if not then import its engine and fix it in... as amjad rohani asked the cost of the modification I percieved as if he is concerned about the budget so As to astray him from Nos and all and its after effects -- i tried suggesting him something easy ...


    I agree that instead of wasting money on A stock 1.8... he should go for something which comes with 200hp plus.. RX8 best choice to exchange with 1.8 range...350Z A V6 and a minimum price tag over 2.4mil... RX 8 is best or an engine import of the same Civic Si which made to fix in the same bonnet...


    So u admit that that u were wrong!!! Thats good.
    R18 boyz!.....Powered by Honda

  3. #42
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    @aeromix... Not actually.... Dear I seconded Storm that doesnt mean I was wrong at any instance--- actually with an intake you can enhance even more then 18 Bhp easy or 10%- 12% of BHp... watch it for yourself and get educated--- aeromix..


    @Storm-- here is something... I guess you should be aware of but a reminder for you sir incase...


    Watch it
    Cars make my blood live...

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    Quote Originally Posted by Naweed



    more hp outa honda civic reborn -992090




    (y)
    It is impossible to please everybody.

  5. #44
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    to add 5-10 horse power add intake. besides that taking the a.c. out and adding nos, for that you should bold your hood down other wise it'll blow right off!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dawar


    @aeromix... Not actually.... Dear I seconded Storm that doesnt mean I was wrong at any instance--- actually with an intake you can enhance even more then 18 Bhp easy or 10%- 12% of BHp... watch it for yourself and get educated--- aeromix..


    @Storm-- here is something... I guess you should be aware of but a reminder for you sir incase...


    Watch it








    This video is not an independent or impartial (if there is such a thing) review of the product. This is an AD by AEM, which means they will over state their claims. Here is a little something:






    Pressure Drop Test #1


    table align=center" cellpadding=2"
    tbody




    Test #1


    (in H2O)




    Test #2


    (in H2O)




    Test #3


    (in H2O)




    Test #4


    (in H2O)




    Test #5


    (in H2O)




    Test #6


    (in H2O)




    Average


    (in H2O)




    Average


    (in psi differential)




    Napa Paper filter


    7.0




    7.0




    6.8




    6.8






    6.9




    0.249




    K&N cotton gauze


    6.4




    6.4




    6.4




    6.4






    6.4




    0.231




    Racing Beat foam


    6.4




    6.8




    6.4




    6.6






    6.55




    0.236




    Jackson Racing foam


    6.6




    6.8




    6.8




    7.0






    6.8




    0.245




    Amsoil foam


    6.6




    6.6




    6.6




    6.2




    6.6




    6.4




    6.5




    0.235



    /tbody
    /table

    So what do these results mean? For one,
    there is very little pressure drop across any air filter, and the difference between the best (K&N) and worst (paper) is very small.
    Yes as total power output increases, air flow increases, and differential pressure would also increase. So
    a K&N probably does yield some power on higher output race motors where every last ounce of power must be squeezed out. On lower powered street cars, it is probably not much of an improvement over paper.
    Basically, an air filter is first and foremost a filter, and should be chosen for it's filtration ability. I know after this enlightening experiment, that is exactly how I will select my air filters. Also remember, that this total differential pressure is measured from the atmosphere via the stock Miata air intake tube, airbox, accross the filter, though the test port, about 6 feet of tygon tubing and the manometer and back to the atmosphere. This is not the pressure drop across the filter itself. I may do a quick test with no filter ( I really hate to do it, but might anyway) to get a good estimate of how much is the system itself sans the filter.


    Also bear in mind the K&N is cotton gauze, the Racing Beat is a single stage foam type filter, the Jackson Racing and Amsoil are dual stage foam, and the Napa is a paper filter. So cotton gauze does flow more air than foam as claimed. Amsoil is the best foam filter for flow. The foam filters are a real pain in the rump to service (this just my opinion and not fact). For that reason, I will never ever own a foam filter myself. I've owned several K&Ns and they are easier to service. If you are buying a high performance filter for airflow, K&N is tops in this test.



    Pressure Drop Test #2



    Test #2 was conducted to find the pressure drop for the Mazda and Baldwin filters. The Napa filter was also compared to them so the test results could be extrapolated to the first test. During this test, no filter was also tested to determine the amount of pressure loss due to the factory airbox and intake plumbing. This test was done in 2nd gear also, but data was taken at 6,000 rpm instead of 6,500 due to a mistake by yours truly. The conclusions are still obvious, but it would've been nice to go to 6,500 like in the first test. Here are the results.




    table align=center" cellpadding=2"
    tbody




    Test #1


    (in H2O)




    Test #2


    (in H2O)




    Test #3


    (in H2O)




    Test #4


    (in H2O)




    Average


    (in H2O)




    Average


    (in psi differential)




    Baldwin


    6.4




    6.4




    6.6




    6.4




    6.45




    0.233




    Mazda


    6.6




    6.4




    6.6




    6.6




    6.5




    0.235




    Napa Gold


    6.2




    6.4




    6.4




    6.2




    6.3




    0.227




    no filter


    5.2




    5.2




    5.0




    5.0




    5.1




    0.184



    /tbody
    /table

    For this test differential pressure for the Napa filter is lower due to different atmospheric conditions (different day) and 500 less rpm at the data collection point. That said, it is still noteworthy that the Baldwin and Mazda filter do not flow as well as the Napa, but are still very, very close. In all honestly, all 3 flow about the same or very nearly the same. So it is safe to say from the first test, that the K&N is still the best flowing filter. What is interesting to note is that there was a 5.1 inch of H2O differential pressure in the stock air box and intake piping. If you subtract this different it says worst case one can see a 2 inch of H2O differential pressure loss due to the air filter. This is equivalent to 0.072 psi or very nearly nothing. The air filter posses very little restriction at all in this application. As long as an air filter is properly sized for an application, the lost airflow will be very minimal. This means that
    there is very little if any power to be found from removing the air filter, much less changing the filter type. The K&N did flow better than the Napa Gold in the first test to the tune of 0.02 psi. That is less than 1/3rd the loss in the factory piping, and it is a whopping 0.14% of atmospheric pressure (14.7 psi). If you need the 0.14% better airflow, than the K&N is hands down the best filter.






    Source: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=61&It emid=70
    Death is not the greatest loss in life. The greatest loss is what dies inside us while we live.

  7. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by Storm

    @poster if you want more power on this engine you will have to get some form of forced induction. most reliable form will be a supercharger but it'll be cheaper to fit a simple bolt-on turbo kit (and you'll get a little more power). however for a little added cost you could just sell the civic and buy a used RX8 or 350Z. at least they are built to go fast.




    Agreed with this and the previous post of your's. Strictly from a performance point of view, I would suggest a supercharger, given the fact that Civic lacks a bit of low RPM grunt/torque. The supercharger would take care of that. Turbochargers provide more grunt in the upper RPM range.


    Peace.
    Death is not the greatest loss in life. The greatest loss is what dies inside us while we live.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jz

    get the following, cold air intake performance plugs light weight fly wheel after market fuel pump headers straight piping branded exaust




    (Y)(Y)
    Si G n A T u R E

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    @Dawar

    That AEM V2 intake has been tested on a K20A engine. Those are known to be one of the most responsive engines around. On a R18 Civic, expect nothing more than 2-4hp TOPS.
    My engine history; CB70 -> 4EFTE -> D15B VTEC -> D16Y6 VTEC -> 1JZ-GTE

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    after listening to all members...


    here r few options from me...


    1. Go for custom polished stainless steel intake manifold and change the air filter like AEM V2 or any branded one.


    2. Get installed the stainless steel performance headers and stainless steel free flow piping of 2.5 inches in diameter and at last install a branded muffler so as 2 get a nice sound.


    here is the picture of headers and the cat back bolt on exhuast system for ur civic.





    more hp outa honda civic reborn -992100



    more hp outa honda civic reborn -992101



    Now after this, u can get Bosch Platinum +4 Spark Plugs and the MSD Ignition System for high voltage current delivery 2 the spark plugs.


    Now, Remember that u should go to lighten ur car by weight to get some increase in performance.


    so as far as engine internals are concerned, u can go for Low Compression Pistons, Light Weight Flywheel, AEM Lightweight performance Cam Gear, AEM True Under drive pulley kit.


    now come to interior of ur car.


    when u r going 2 race, try to remove all the interiors which u donot need in the race. i mean first remove the rear seat and of possible remove the front left seat also and from the trunk, remove the subwoofer box if available and even u can remove the spare wheel also. the purpose is to make ur ride more lighter.


    now if u do all the above modifications in ur car. i m sure u will get a positive response. i dont say that it will give u 200hp, but u will feel a great diffrence between a stock civic 1.8 and urs...


    regards


    M. Danish (AUTOMOBILE TECHNICIAN)


    TOYOTA SOUTHERN MOTORS, Karachi


    for questions and comments regarding any automotive related problems, here is my cell number


    0333-3738698
    For Mechanical Works and Car Detailing, Contact 0333-3738698

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    ^ pictures of headers for the 1.8L civic? LOL!

    Have you ever even seen the engine bay of a 1.8L civic? The headers you've posted would fit nowhere near it.

    @Dawar,

    10-12hp isn't going to happen on the R18A engine. Most of the people who did a complete stage 1 on the car, which included:

    - CAI
    - Decat / header
    - Catback exhaust
    - Pulleys
    - Throttle body spacer

    Ended up with about 18 whp extra on the car (dyno test).
    ProSpeed Imports -- www.prospeedimports.com -- Car parts direct from USA, Japan & Europe to your doorstep! Email us at special.requests@prospeedimports.com. Don't forget to ask about our special car wrapping, change the color of your car without changing the paint ;-)

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    If you're just looking to shorten the 0-100kph of the car, there are two surefire ways:

    Most recommended
    An MFactory final drive gear which costs over $700. It'll shorten your gearing will give you a good advantage.

    Recommended
    An ethrottle controller from blitz, it gets rid of the drive-by-wire lag this car or any ethrottle car suffers from; it gives a much more responsive throttle. But this is still nothing compared to the above option
    ProSpeed Imports -- www.prospeedimports.com -- Car parts direct from USA, Japan & Europe to your doorstep! Email us at special.requests@prospeedimports.com. Don't forget to ask about our special car wrapping, change the color of your car without changing the paint ;-)

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    Lastly, the best thing you can do for this car is to simply get the TSI or the upcoming AJP turbo. Its been dynotested to goto 240WHP without any problems.

    But thats an expensive receipe, in Pakistan if imported, the kit would cost $4200 easily.
    ProSpeed Imports -- www.prospeedimports.com -- Car parts direct from USA, Japan & Europe to your doorstep! Email us at special.requests@prospeedimports.com. Don't forget to ask about our special car wrapping, change the color of your car without changing the paint ;-)

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    GAIN 5 HORSEPOWER THIS WEEKEND






    If you're looking for free & cheap ways to increase the
    horsepower output of your engine - I've got just the thing for
    you.

    I want to share with you 6 cheap or in some cases, even free
    ways that you can gain horsepower.

    I hope that you will enjoy these 6 awesome
    modifications for your car, and without further delay - let's
    get started!

    Modification Number One: Index Your Plugs

    The next time you are doing a tune-up on your ride, be sure to
    take note of this modification. By simply installing your plugs
    in a particular way, you will pick up roughly 1 whp, dyno
    proven time and time again.



    As illustrated above, in order to perform this mod, mark the side
    on which the "open end" of the spark plug faces. Proceed to install
    them as you normally would, except when the plug is hand-tight
    (that is, you've screwed it in without a ratchet as far as it'll go), use
    your ratchet to tighten the plug until the open end of the plug,
    faces the intake side of your cylinder head. That's it!

    Modification Number Two: Insulate Fuel Lines

    Under-hood engine heat is a serious performance robber in almost
    all cars. Not only does the under-hood heat cause performance
    loss by heating up the intake air, but it also causes
    performance loss by heating up the fuel lines. Cooler fuel will
    help cool the intake charge, as well as provide for a better
    overall mixture.

    In order to get this stolen power back, simply go down to your
    local hardware store and purchase a roll of refrigerator and
    air conditioning insulation. Wrap all of your under-hood fuel
    lines with the insulation to keep the cool in, and the hot out.


    Modification Number Three: Relocate IAT Sensor

    In most fuel injected vehicles you will find a sensor that
    measures intake air temperature. You will need to refer to your
    factory service manual to find its location.

    At any rate, it is very typical to find the IAT sensor mounted
    inside the intake plenum that is very often heated heavily by
    coolant and the cylinder head. This is fine of course, since
    the original equipment manufacturer designed it to work this
    way. However, there is a way to "trick" the engine computer
    into thinking that the incoming air is a little cooler than it
    really is, and therefore get the ECU to advance the timing a
    small amount and increase fuel supply at the same time.

    In most mildly modified vehicles, this will create a more
    desirable fuel and ignition map and create a few extra
    horsepower.

    In order to perform this mod, simply locate the sensor and
    remove it from the intake manifold. Fill in the hole with JB
    weld and proceed to remount the sensor somewhere in the intake
    arm. Seal everything up well, and you're done.

    Modification Number Four: Synthetic Oil

    In the past 3 years I have been running various types of oils
    through my engines and have found that for the most part -
    all oils are the same, power wise. However, Synthetic oils
    definitely make more power over standard "dino" oils. In fact,
    I have consistently seen anywhere from 2-3hp across the rev
    range from using a true synthetic versus a standard oil.

    Therefore, next time you change oils, switch to synthetic.
    Even on a high mileage engine, it works wonders. It is also a
    far better lubricant and protector of your engine.

    Modification Number Five: Increase H2O Ratio In Coolant

    If it weren't for corrosion and freezing concerns, automotive makers
    would use pure water to cool your vehicle. Straight water cools
    better than coolant any day of the week, and a cooler engine is
    always going to produce more horsepower.

    Instead of a typical half and half ratio, try 40/60. However,
    NEVER use pure water, as this may cause premature corrosion which
    will cause a costly repair bill. You may also try water wetter
    to further enhance the effect, but be cautioned that water wetter
    should only be used for track purposes.

    Modification Number Six: Throttle Body Coolant Bypass

    This one I saved for last, and for good reason. This is
    perhaps one of the best modifications that you can do for
    basically nothing. As you'll see in the dyno below, which
    is of my Integra LS motor in a 92 Civic hatchback, cold
    vs. warm: I got back almost 10ft-lbs of torque over
    the entire rev range. 10ft-lbs that was present in the engine
    when completely cool, but once the manifold heated up
    was gone.. This is good for about 0.2 seconds in
    the quarter mile in my particular vehicle - needless to say
    this is a great mod sicne it helps keep those temps down.

    Above you see a diagram of how coolant normally flows
    through a throttle body (illustration is from an Accord).
    All you need to do on any vehicle is to take those two
    coolant lines, disconnect them from the throttle body and
    connect them with a coupler available in the vacuum hose
    section of your auto parts store. It's basically two nipples
    connected to each other that allow you to connect two pieces
    of coolant hose.

    If you have problems with erratic idle afterwards. You will
    need to find your fast idle (or idle air control valve),
    and disable it by blocking it off or somehow keeping it closed.
    This occurs mostly in Hondas to my knowledge, and it's pretty
    hard to explain in a "universal" manor.





    i have got this from one of the posts on pakwheels by a person living in UAE.
    For Mechanical Works and Car Detailing, Contact 0333-3738698

  15. #54
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    lol @ reborn civic.. 1.8 B18C5
    Ehtesham Bokhari
    https://www.facebook.com/sebokhari

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    who wrote that??^^^( B18c5 )

  17. #56
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    spano..
    For Mechanical Works and Car Detailing, Contact 0333-3738698

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    keep this thread alive as I am working on a Reborn and I am sure its pretty fast now.
    I'm Ready for rock and roll
    Ehtesham Bokhari
    https://www.facebook.com/sebokhari

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    Quote Originally Posted by Spano View Post
    keep this thread alive as I am working on a Reborn and I am sure its pretty fast now.
    I'm Ready for rock and roll
    That's good. Share details and pics if you can.

  20. #59
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    saadkhangul's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spano View Post
    keep this thread alive as I am working on a Reborn and I am sure its pretty fast now.
    I'm Ready for rock and roll
    details please
    None of the brave deserve fair....

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    shamail_haider's Avatar
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    Waiting for details with some clips.

    Sent from my A60 using PW Forums mobile app
    I Luv Jet Engines.......I Luv Cars.

    Its My Passion,i'm ready to go for it behind the Bars.

    Sialkot ROCKS.......

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