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Thread: 8th generation Civic fan and owner club

  1. #1
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    Default 8th generation Civic fan and owner club

    the 2006 generation Honda split the model into two different platforms, one primarily for the home market and North America and the other designed for the European market using a simpler rear suspension from the Honda Fit and more aggressive styling. As of 2006, a total of 16.5 million Civics had been sold worldwide, with 7.3 million of them in the United States.[5] Although the North American and the home market model differ externally, they are mechanically identical. The European model is available as a three and five-door hatchback while the Japanese/North American model is available as either sedan or coupe. Both Si and Type-R trim levels continue although the Japanese and European Type-R while sharing the same size engine are mechanically different. In the US an improved version of the Si tuned by Honda tuner Mugen is offered featuring cosmetic alterations and changes to the suspension and exhaust system. The Acura version of the Civic not only received the design change, but also saw a new nameplate, changing from the Acura EL to the Acura CSX. In Japan starting March 2006, the Honda dealership sales channels called Honda Primo, Verno, and Clio were disbanded, and combined into one retail dealership called Honda Cars.

    Online workshop Manual:

    http://civic.hondafitjazz.com/manual2.html

    Maintenance schedule:

    Fluids:

    Engine oil: 3.7-4 liters @5,000kms
    Havoline formula 10W30
    Havoline synthetic 5w30
    Genuine Honda (Total Repack) 5w30Transmission oilManual transmission) 1.4 L Fluid Change, 1.6 L at Overhaul @ 40,000kms.
    Honda original MTF approx 1000Rs /liter

    (Automatic transmission) 2.4 L at change, 5.9 L at overhaul @ 40,000kms
    Honda original ATF approx 1000Rs /literBrake oil: 0.9 litre after 2 years
    Honda Brake fluid. approx 1000Rs /liter

    Hydraulic Clutch oil:
    Honda Brake fluid.

    Power steering oil: 1 litre @ 40,000kms
    Honda genuine PSF. approx 1000Rs /liter

    Coolant: Manual:5.2 liter Auto:5.5 liter @1,50,000kms or 4 years
    Honda type 2 coolant
    Caltex coolant.

    Parts change:

    Brake pads change:
    recommended @ 40,000kms
    Genuine Honda pads or Original Nissin pads.

    Fuel filter change @ 80,000kms

    Air filter change @ 10,000kms
    Use Honda filter. If any other then change earlier.

    Spark plugs @ 80,000-1,00,000kms
    NGK Laser Iridiums. IZFR6K11

    Timing belt: Not required. Civic 8th gen has timing chain instead of belt which usually last a life time.

    Tune-up @20,000 kms.
    Things done:
    Throttle plate cleaned, valves adjusted, plugs cleaned/replaced and idle adjusted using HDS.

    Tyres:

    Best All rounder tires:

    Yokohama dB Decible
    Michillin Energy

    Extreme traction/grip:

    Falken ZieX 912
    Yokohama C Drive
    Comfort:Yokohama C Drive
    Dunlop Eco

    *Courtesy @saadkhangul
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    Honda Boys..Powered by R18!

  2. #401
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sk_KingpiN View Post
    |
    I have a manual and prosmatec both. I drive manual mostly. If the car in discussion is prosmatec and jerk and vibration is being felt when shifting from D to R. Then most likely it's engine mount problem.
    do u properly brake , bring the car to a complete halt and then change from D to R or R to D ?? if u dont to this , u will feel the vibrations .. it is also felt if u have bigger tyres ...

    i had a steermatic in the family .. they had put on 195/65R15 tyres (euro) due to which these vibrations started .. then i forced 'em to put lighter tyres 175/65R15 euro after which the vib became much less , but did not go away completely.. some permanent damage was done
    and a friend had vitz , tyres were ok but from changing D to R or vice versa , car was not halted properly -- permanent vibrations..
    For those ten seconds or less, I'm free

  3. #402
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    a random shot
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    I do it because i can, I can because I want to, I want to because you said I couldn't =)

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    What's the break-in milage of civic?

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    Quote Originally Posted by mustafa8228 View Post
    do u properly brake , bring the car to a complete halt and then change from D to R or R to D ?? if u dont to this , u will feel the vibrations .. it is also felt if u have bigger tyres ...

    i had a steermatic in the family .. they had put on 195/65R15 tyres (euro) due to which these vibrations started .. then i forced 'em to put lighter tyres 175/65R15 euro after which the vib became much less , but did not go away completely.. some permanent damage was done
    and a friend had vitz , tyres were ok but from changing D to R or vice versa , car was not halted properly -- permanent vibrations..
    I didn't notice this to be very frank. Maybe your assumption is right as I don't drive prosmatec on daily purpose.

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    Hey there dear members, no activity in our club so far what's the use of having a so-called "CLUB" if we don't share ideas that would be mutually beneficial.

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    Quote Originally Posted by aftabmohi View Post
    Hey there dear members, no activity in our club so far what's the use of having a so-called "CLUB" if we don't share ideas that would be mutually beneficial.

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    @ 8th gen owners

    Aoa
    This has been discussed here many times b4 but still I am confused ..which engine oil is best for our local 8th gen civic ? I have searched alot many ppl here prefer genuine or oil provided by honda 3s dealerships which according to some senior members here is TOTAL QUARTZ 9000 Fully synthetic ..many ppl here adv to use Caltex Havoline Formula 10w30
    The car has done 52k kms ..last oil change was done at 47+ k kms with genuine filter from honda but caltex havoline formula 10w30 oil
    Now I am thinking to get fully synthetic ..should I stick to caltex havoline ? Or should I get fully synthetic from honda 3s workshop ? Or should I go for total quartz 9000 ?
    PREDATOR 11th Gen Corolla and RED MAMBA Reborn...
    Blast from the Past Sabre 9th gen Civic n Blue Max Reborn...

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    Quote Originally Posted by InNoCeNt_DeViL View Post
    @ 8th gen owners

    Aoa
    This has been discussed here many times b4 but still I am confused ..which engine oil is best for our local 8th gen civic ? I have searched alot many ppl here prefer genuine or oil provided by honda 3s dealerships which according to some senior members here is TOTAL QUARTZ 9000 Fully synthetic ..many ppl here adv to use Caltex Havoline Formula 10w30
    The car has done 52k kms ..last oil change was done at 47+ k kms with genuine filter from honda but caltex havoline formula 10w30 oil
    Now I am thinking to get fully synthetic ..should I stick to caltex havoline ? Or should I get fully synthetic from honda 3s workshop ? Or should I go for total quartz 9000 ?
    Bro, i use honda preferred oil by dealer and happy with it. as never used aftermarket oil so cant review....!


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    Now some issues n problems :

    1) Rain water or water during service enters the right headlamp .. got it checked and sealed with silicon from every possible angle n edge but it still enters the light ! The new light might cost 8 plus thousand m afraid :/

    2) I can feel some burnt plastic smell inside the cabin from ac vents after revving hard with and without Ac which stays for 5 to 10 mins when I come back to normal driving style and bring the rpm down to 3
    If I stay below 3.5 rpm mark I never feel this smell
    The pick is great , gear changing is normal without any jerks , car is giving me a good fuel avg the car is perfect MA SHA ALLAH

    The temp guage shows normal temp even after revving hard and touching 6k rpm

    I have googled it and acc to few forums auto transmission oil might need a change but acc to honda 3s it will be changed at 60k kms and looks normal at present
    PREDATOR 11th Gen Corolla and RED MAMBA Reborn...
    Blast from the Past Sabre 9th gen Civic n Blue Max Reborn...

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    Hey Guys.
    I'm thinking of getting a oriel PT and wanted some advice.. My requirements are basically a low driven car, ideally in the 20-30K range, which won't give me any problems for a few years (no workshop trips etc, just normal maintenance).. Basically I want a owner driven car, not a driver driven because I see quite a few 2011-2012 selling with 40-50k, and I think that is quite a lot in a little while.. I've been looking around on the selling section and see everything within a 17.5-20 range.. What do you guys believe is a realistic price is should aim for?

    I don't drive a lot, probably 6-7K in the whole year, maybe even less, so that is why I was thinking I should get a low mileage car, because hopefully it'll be driven better, less problems and if I need to sell in the future, the mileage would still be low..

    Suggestions?

  12. #411
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    Quote Originally Posted by humayunh View Post
    Hey Guys.
    I'm thinking of getting a oriel PT and wanted some advice.. My requirements are basically a low driven car, ideally in the 20-30K range, which won't give me any problems for a few years (no workshop trips etc, just normal maintenance).. Basically I want a owner driven car, not a driver driven because I see quite a few 2011-2012 selling with 40-50k, and I think that is quite a lot in a little while.. I've been looking around on the selling section and see everything within a 17.5-20 range.. What do you guys believe is a realistic price is should aim for?

    I don't drive a lot, probably 6-7K in the whole year, maybe even less, so that is why I was thinking I should get a low mileage car, because hopefully it'll be driven better, less problems and if I need to sell in the future, the mileage would still be low..

    Suggestions?
    Price depends on personal preference esp how much you're willing to pay for the car e.g. I have same exact thoughts & preferences as yours, so I searched n opted to buy a 2010 vti oriel prosmatic only 5000 km driven in 18 Lacs bcoz it was just brand new sparingly used as a 4th car. So I guess price many times depends on the buyer's preference. Don't jus believe what dealers say about the market price.

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    Quote Originally Posted by aftabmohi View Post
    Price depends on personal preference esp how much you're willing to pay for the car e.g. I have same exact thoughts & preferences as yours, so I searched n opted to buy a 2010 vti oriel prosmatic only 5000 km driven in 18 Lacs bcoz it was just brand new sparingly used as a 4th car. So I guess price many times depends on the buyer's preference. Don't jus believe what dealers say about the market price.

    Sent from my GT-I9100 using PW Forums mobile app
    Wow! That is a really sweet deal. I have another home driven car, brand new, and i know, unless you don't give it to drivers and drive it yourself, a car doesn't do more than 10K in a year, if you're driving within the city mostly.

    All the ads on Pakwheels are for cars around 20-46K for the low driven ones.. =/ Btw, how did you search and end up with that car? For now, i am just looking at Pakwheels ads regularly, but will visit showrooms soon too i guess..

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    Quote Originally Posted by humayunh View Post
    Wow! That is a really sweet deal. I have another home driven car, brand new, and i know, unless you don't give it to drivers and drive it yourself, a car doesn't do more than 10K in a year, if you're driving within the city mostly.

    All the ads on Pakwheels are for cars around 20-46K for the low driven ones.. =/ Btw, how did you search and end up with that car? For now, i am just looking at Pakwheels ads regularly, but will visit showrooms soon too i guess..
    Good deal can come from any source. I tried all available channels to search for the desired car - web adds, Sunday newspaper, car showrooms, private dealers, even car bazars but in the end I found my car at OLX (as I was regularly searching olx & pkwheels daily in morning n in the evening until I find one) and finally took it for inspection at Honda dealership before buying. that's why I mentioned that don't believe on car dealers as their promises are hallow n their market price assumptions are ridiculous, they're bunch of robbers.

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    In islamabad many low mileage civics are available since people opt to change to 9th Gen at times


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    Quote Originally Posted by abdullah1 View Post
    In islamabad many low mileage civics are available since people opt to change to 9th Gen at times


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    By the way, I spoke to ppl in car selling field and they all agreed on one point that 8th Gen civic is more popular n successful than 9th gen civic.

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    Quote Originally Posted by abdullah1 View Post
    In islamabad many low mileage civics are available since people opt to change to 9th Gen at times


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    Hmmm I think I should look for cars in isl too then, cause abhi tak just checking on Pw for Lahore.. Talked to a friends bro today who mentioned he knows someone who were trying to sell their 2007 22K driven white oriel prosmatec sometime ago but didn't cause didn't get the price they wanted.. Said somewhere around 15.. He says its in pristine condition, only driver side, side view mirror has been changed since someone stole it and says the owner got the dash upgraded from Honda to the recent model dashes.. Told him to ask if they are still selling, then I might check it out.. According to him, it's still in very very good mechanical condition.

    What do you guys think? Does it matter if the car is so old? Like I mentioned above, by the time I sell it in a few years if need be it'll have touched 35-40K max.. Will it matter in resale? Also since its low driven, I'm assuming it wouldn't have suffered much wear and tear? Should I be concerned about normal metal wear and tear just from standing? Like rustic etc? This is the first car I'm buying myself so being cautious hence asking all these questions..

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    Default Fully synthetic oil or Honda Genuine Oil

    Quote Originally Posted by InNoCeNt_DeViL View Post
    Now some issues n problems :

    1) Rain water or water during service enters the right headlamp .. got it checked and sealed with silicon from every possible angle n edge but it still enters the light ! The new light might cost 8 plus thousand m afraid :/

    2) I can feel some burnt plastic smell inside the cabin from ac vents after revving hard with and without Ac which stays for 5 to 10 mins when I come back to normal driving style and bring the rpm down to 3
    If I stay below 3.5 rpm mark I never feel this smell
    The pick is great , gear changing is normal without any jerks , car is giving me a good fuel avg the car is perfect MA SHA ALLAH

    The temp guage shows normal temp even after revving hard and touching 6k rpm

    I have googled it and acc to few forums auto transmission oil might need a change but acc to honda 3s it will be changed at 60k kms and looks normal at present
    The burnt plastic smell at higher rpms was due to old engine oil
    I only used the engine oil for some 4+ k kms but for almost 6 months since the running is not tht much and I was using caltex havoline formula 10w30.. got it changed today with honda motor oil wch is fully synthetic 5w30 .. transmission oil was perfect .. after the oil change they did a road test and touched 5 and 6k rpm AL HAMDULILLAH no such smell now.. they have adv to change the oil after every 3 months now even if the running is 2000 kms in 3 months
    About the light : new one is for 14.5 k rupees lolz
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    Thankyou for sharing your exp

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    Has anyone noticed sqeeking sounds coming out of door panels while driving with all windows closed AC turned ON?

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    Quote Originally Posted by aftabmohi View Post
    Has anyone noticed sqeeking sounds coming out of door panels while driving with all windows closed AC turned ON?

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    Nooo....!


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