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Thread: Civic 99 Drinking Petrol like Sharbat

  1. #1
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    Thumbs up (FINALLY SOLVED) Civic 99 Drinking Petrol like Sharbat

    Salam PWs
    My civic is drinking petrol like hell. does only 300 kms per tank on highway & even less in city. The petrol needle can be felt going down while driving. there is no leakage & car moves great on petrol. no problem in driving.
    On CNG it does 200kms per 55cylinder. can u tell me how to increase petrol average. i have the advancer installed and it works. no problem on driving on CNG or PETROL. plz help

    ***EDIT***
    Problem Solved
    For all lazy people like me See Last Page


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    I'm not sure what it should be for a city i-dsi engine.

    What is 0.45/0.5? volts or kohms?
    Selling Vitz+local cars - compatible bluetooth Ecu Scantool, High-amp car chargers, Apple-certified Lightning Cables, etc. Click on my name and see my started threads for details.

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    Hi Irfan and all my PW friends;

    I have recently bought a Honda Civic Exi Prosmatec model 2005. Only 44000 kms done in original condition and sealed engine. The car has been running on petrol and never been on CNG.

    I drive mostly in city. The car was giving an average of 6.5 kms/litre.

    The following was replaced with no improvement:
    1. Engine Oil (Shell)
    2. Oil Filter (Guard)
    3. Spark Plugs (NGK)
    4. Throttle body/Carbeurator cleaned with Nasa carbeurator cleaner by just removing the air filter.
    5. Air Filter was clean, thus not changed.

    In spite of all these changes, the noted mileage was 6.9 kms/liter (checked on 10 liter filling).

    The process of calculating mileage is that I fill up the tank with 10l of petrol upon lighting-up of the 'yellow' light indicator showing less fuel till the next time it lits up again and see the total mileage covered. It covered exactly 69.5 kms in 10 liters of petrol with AC.

    Fyi, the car has 195/65/15 Michelin tyres. Thus, do not see major effect due to these.

    I don't smell any petrol but wonder if there is any minor leakage or possiblity of fuel evaporation???

    Later, took the car for computerized tuning. The technician/mechanic adjusted the CO emission (which was high and reduced it to 1.04), reduced the petrol utilzation (adjusted somewhere from behind the glove compartment), adjusted the spark plugs guage from 100 to 90, checked fuel lines and joints for leakage (and found none).

    He was also of the opinion that the engine is extremely perfect and that the car is not drinking petrol... but then where is all the fuel going??? is still a question mark.

    I use Shell for petrol. He suggested to change the filling station and evaluate performance after these adjustments but still in vain.

    @Irfan, appreciate if you could advise me details and contact of the mechanic/workshop you took your car to for adjustments and resolving the issue.

    All PWs, please help!!! I am extremely upset with this situation. Please help!!!

    Thanks much.

    Abdul Aziz

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    Thats not the way you check fuel consumption.

    Fill it to the top. Drive. Then fill it to the top again. Note the litres it fills 2nd time round and the kms driven between the two fills.

    Thats how you should calculate.
    Selling Vitz+local cars - compatible bluetooth Ecu Scantool, High-amp car chargers, Apple-certified Lightning Cables, etc. Click on my name and see my started threads for details.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ahsanonline View Post
    I'm not sure what it should be for a city i-dsi engine.

    What is 0.45/0.5? volts or kohms?
    volts.

    and i have a civic 99 vti automatic with a D15B 3-stage engine.
    Civic '99 VTi Oriel D15B 3-Stage VTEC A/T
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    and its supposed to be 0.48v at closed throttle and 4.5v at WOT
    (grabbed from here)
    Civic '99 VTi Oriel D15B 3-Stage VTEC A/T
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    this site recommends fine tuning your idle using the idle air screw... that's the same screw that the mech adjusted in my car..
    Civic '99 VTi Oriel D15B 3-Stage VTEC A/T
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    Quote Originally Posted by aziz247 View Post
    Hi Irfan and all my PW friends;

    I have recently bought a Honda Civic Exi Prosmatec model 2005. Only 44000 kms done in original condition and sealed engine. The car has been running on petrol and never been on CNG.

    I drive mostly in city. The car was giving an average of 6.5 kms/litre.

    The following was replaced with no improvement:
    1. Engine Oil (Shell)
    2. Oil Filter (Guard)
    3. Spark Plugs (NGK)
    4. Throttle body/Carbeurator cleaned with Nasa carbeurator cleaner by just removing the air filter.
    5. Air Filter was clean, thus not changed.

    In spite of all these changes, the noted mileage was 6.9 kms/liter (checked on 10 liter filling).

    The process of calculating mileage is that I fill up the tank with 10l of petrol upon lighting-up of the 'yellow' light indicator showing less fuel till the next time it lits up again and see the total mileage covered. It covered exactly 69.5 kms in 10 liters of petrol with AC.

    Fyi, the car has 195/65/15 Michelin tyres. Thus, do not see major effect due to these.

    I don't smell any petrol but wonder if there is any minor leakage or possiblity of fuel evaporation???

    Later, took the car for computerized tuning. The technician/mechanic adjusted the CO emission (which was high and reduced it to 1.04), reduced the petrol utilzation (adjusted somewhere from behind the glove compartment), adjusted the spark plugs guage from 100 to 90, checked fuel lines and joints for leakage (and found none).

    He was also of the opinion that the engine is extremely perfect and that the car is not drinking petrol... but then where is all the fuel going??? is still a question mark.

    I use Shell for petrol. He suggested to change the filling station and evaluate performance after these adjustments but still in vain.

    @Irfan, appreciate if you could advise me details and contact of the mechanic/workshop you took your car to for adjustments and resolving the issue.

    All PWs, please help!!! I am extremely upset with this situation. Please help!!!

    Thanks much.

    Abdul Aziz
    CO adjustment... didnt know that happened here... sounds like your guy is pretty thorough... but there's still a lot more to check. pw experts can guide u on a checklist but u can also google it.

    good luck!
    Civic '99 VTi Oriel D15B 3-Stage VTEC A/T
    JVC KD-G645, Sony XS-GTR1720S, Pioneer TS-D691S, Rogers RA-6400 4CH, Addzest APA2100 2CH

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    Has anyone tweaked this little part within the IACV? Results?Civic 99 Drinking Petrol like Sharbat - 100 1094
    "Start the car and simply move that little part pictured above.Simply move it left or right with a screwdriver until the idle is fine"

    "Fine adjustments can then be made via the idle/air adjust screw:"
    Civic 99 Drinking Petrol like Sharbat - 100 1125
    Civic '99 VTi Oriel D15B 3-Stage VTEC A/T
    JVC KD-G645, Sony XS-GTR1720S, Pioneer TS-D691S, Rogers RA-6400 4CH, Addzest APA2100 2CH

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    Quote Originally Posted by xsxd View Post
    Has anyone tweaked this little part within the IACV? Results?Civic 99 Drinking Petrol like Sharbat - 100 1094
    "Start the car and simply move that little part pictured above.Simply move it left or right with a screwdriver until the idle is fine"

    "Fine adjustments can then be made via the idle/air adjust screw:"
    Civic 99 Drinking Petrol like Sharbat - 100 1125
    If i m not wrong the 1st pic is of the opposite side of IACV where connector is attached.
    If thats the case then it will do nothing. if it does change idle then ur IACV is stuck.
    The rotary IACV is electrically controlled. if u remove the holder end then u can see that the connector/holder end does not physically hold the shaft of IACV. the shaft is free. u can rotate it with hand but it cannot rotate a full turn. the other end is the same as ur pic. it has a groove to stop the shaft from rotating the full turn.
    The shaft should rotate without resistance from 1 end to the other when unplugged. if it is showing resistance then it is jammed & needs cleaning.
    Now the shaft is controlled by providing power to the holder end which acts like a magnet whose power is controlled by the ECU. So the shaft cannot move when powered without orders from ECU.

    So i wanted to say that if u move the shaft from the end u r showing it will go back to its ECU controlled position automatically when powered. If it doesnt go back then its stuck stuck stuck.

    my hands r hurting now. takes a lot of effort to type.....

  11. #150
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    Ya CO adjustment is possible through The Potentiometer.
    ^Aziz247
    Kindly check ur consumption as per procedure mentioned by Ahsanonline. thats the correct way of checking mileage.
    ABt the CO emission. The value 1.04 u mentioned is the CO value or the potentiometer reading?
    If its the CO emmision value then its still higher, caz honda says 0.1% at idle.
    It shows ur engine is running rich. can be
    - wrong CO adjustment
    - Bad MAP sensor
    - Leaking injectors
    - incorrect/high fuel pressure. means bed fuel pressure regulator or a clogged fuel return line

    Wat was the face condition of ur plugs. i mean the color when taken out after running.
    Does ur technician have computer diagnostic equipment. i m not talking abt the emission diagnostic but the obd diagnostic.

  12. #151
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    Quote Originally Posted by irfan44 View Post
    If i m not wrong the 1st pic is of the opposite side of IACV where connector is attached.
    If thats the case then it will do nothing. if it does change idle then ur IACV is stuck.
    The rotary IACV is electrically controlled. if u remove the holder end then u can see that the connector/holder end does not physically hold the shaft of IACV. the shaft is free. u can rotate it with hand but it cannot rotate a full turn. the other end is the same as ur pic. it has a groove to stop the shaft from rotating the full turn.
    The shaft should rotate without resistance from 1 end to the other when unplugged. if it is showing resistance then it is jammed & needs cleaning.
    Now the shaft is controlled by providing power to the holder end which acts like a magnet whose power is controlled by the ECU. So the shaft cannot move when powered without orders from ECU.

    So i wanted to say that if u move the shaft from the end u r showing it will go back to its ECU controlled position automatically when powered. If it doesnt go back then its stuck stuck stuck.

    my hands r hurting now. takes a lot of effort to type.....
    i had a similar idea becuz i have seen the iacv from the inside. the end displayed in the picture has a beeswax component inside it which helps determine when to move the shaft... and moving this tiny part (displayed in pic) will only move the shaft. and my mech repositioned the iacv shaft after he was done cleaning it, so doing this didnt seem to sensible to me.

    thanks irfan... rest up your fingers a bit
    Civic '99 VTi Oriel D15B 3-Stage VTEC A/T
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    @irfan44: would you recommend i see Asad (tweakshop) regarding my iacv problem? Also need to get my ecu wiring checked (I'm beginning to doubt the work already done)

    or if anyone else has any knowledge of ppl with ecu rewiring experience, please send me their contacts
    Civic '99 VTi Oriel D15B 3-Stage VTEC A/T
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    i recommended him. but he is an engine swapper & a nice person. atleast he will not try to just lighten ur pocket 4 nothing. i think he can guide u to a good electrician. or find some electrician who does harness swap jobs or obd conversion.

    BTW i couldnt get the location of the thing u show in pic. Is it confirm that its the IACV. u can confirm if it has 3/2 wire plug connected to it.

    If its not the IACV then it can an FITV. FITVs r not found on every motor. but they r known culprits of idle issues. If its FITV (Fast Idle Valve) then it has to be tightened fully. if its loose then u will have a higher & hunting idle.

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    Here is wat i m talking about
    Civic 99 Drinking Petrol like Sharbat - 2Q

    Civic 99 Drinking Petrol like Sharbat - 9k

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    Civic 99 Drinking Petrol like Sharbat - irfan44 albums misc picture7433 tb

    Civic 99 Drinking Petrol like Sharbat - irfan44 albums misc picture7434 fitv

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    @irfan44:

    thanks... the idle soars up to 2K-3K when in neutral and comes down to 300-400 when i turn on the AC (this is after the mech tinkered with the iacv and throttle).

    At the moment he has blocked one passage of the iacv the result of which is that i no longer get high revs on idle. RPM remains between 1000-1200 on idle but comes down to 200 with the AC on (and fluctuates slightly 25-50RPM). Also if i turn on any electronics the idle drops considerably. The car also sputters on cold starts and the engine oil lights take about 10 secs to turn off (used to take just 1-2 secs). Car also sputters (knocks) when moving from a halt (with the AC on, and a light foot on the gas).

    Could you send me a bigger version of the 2nd pic you uploaded?
    Civic '99 VTi Oriel D15B 3-Stage VTEC A/T
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    btw, i m not sure my car has an FITV... the pic you posted does not resemble my throttle body plus i read somewhere that FITV does not come in engines after 1996
    Civic '99 VTi Oriel D15B 3-Stage VTEC A/T
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    Quote Originally Posted by xsxd View Post
    btw, i m not sure my car has an FITV... the pic you posted does not resemble my throttle body plus i read somewhere that FITV does not come in engines after 1996
    ok then its the the IACV & my previous statement stands.

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    is there actually such a thing as "IACV to engine match" ... the parts guy keeps telling me iacv match nahi ho raha
    Civic '99 VTi Oriel D15B 3-Stage VTEC A/T
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    Default Drinking Fuel - Civic EXI PT 2005 Petrol

    Quote Originally Posted by irfan44 View Post
    Ya CO adjustment is possible through The Potentiometer.
    ^Aziz247
    Kindly check ur consumption as per procedure mentioned by Ahsanonline. thats the correct way of checking mileage.
    ABt the CO emission. The value 1.04 u mentioned is the CO value or the potentiometer reading?
    If its the CO emmision value then its still higher, caz honda says 0.1% at idle.
    It shows ur engine is running rich. can be
    - wrong CO adjustment
    - Bad MAP sensor
    - Leaking injectors
    - incorrect/high fuel pressure. means bed fuel pressure regulator or a clogged fuel return line

    Wat was the face condition of ur plugs. i mean the color when taken out after running.
    Does ur technician have computer diagnostic equipment. i m not talking abt the emission diagnostic but the obd diagnostic.
    Hi Irfan; Thanks for your advise.
    I'll re-check fuel consumption as advised by Ahsanonline.
    The old spark plugs were kinda brown. The new ones when taken out for guage adjustment were shining new.
    Please excuse my naiveness, but I'm not to techo-savvy, thus don't know much about the technical lingo. I will visit my technician and have him recheck the car and will share your advise and inquire about the kind of equipment he has. But to get it done with, appreciate if you could let me know about the technician you got your car fixed from in Karachi so that I may directly hit the spot and get my car fixed ASAP. Its eating my pocket like termite!!! Please HELP!!!

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