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Thread: Radiator building pressure when cold... CIVIC 06 VTi

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    Default Radiator building pressure when cold... CIVIC 06 VTi

    hello guys hope you are doing all fine n enjoying the Holy month of ramadan
    well I'm just a bit concerned as most of the regular visitors of this section must have know that I faced a heatup issue in my civic 2006 a week before almost (https://www.pakwheels.com/forums/eng...needs-done-now) ...well after removing the thermostat valve its been a week my car is doing great Alhumdulillah and the temperature stays on the 45% mark ...since after the heatup I've made a habit to check the water level every day ...My car was reducing like almost a cup of water (50km drive with a.c every day ) every morning when I check the water but no rising of temperature ,the radiator fan was kept on auto and every time when I use to open the radiator cap there was a sound of gas escaping like when you open a bottle of soft drink but yesterday mechanic put the fan on direct as he said since there's no thermostat valve at the moment I should keep the fan direct as water gets hot quickly since its circulating in the engine all the time now and tends to vaporise thus reducing the water level ...now today what I felt was the water level didn't decrease at all and the car took way too long to get to the normal temperate 45% mark even but when this morning I opened the cap the pressure built in it was too much to throw some water out of the radiator ....the engine was off and the car is cold as it was parked for the whole night
    I'm wondering could this be because of the following reasons
    1) Faulty Radiator cap
    2) I usually keep the reservoir next to the radiator full ,could this be because of that, that the water might not be able to get to the reservoir from the radiator and thus creates pressure inside the radiator and when I pump the throttle the water level in the radiator rises and some of the water falls out of the radiator when the cap is open
    3) is there some air in the system
    4) Or the worst case a weak Head gasket

    P.S I know its not advisable to run without a thermostat and a direct fan but Im just wanted to make sure that it was the thermostat valve that went bad and nothing else causing the car to head up ...and as soon as I put the thermostat back I will replace the water with coolant
    the radiator cap which Im using is the oem one that comes from factory 1.1 bar

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    @ bilal..i changed head gasket of my civic 2000 a week before coz of bubbles formation and water reduction in radiator.after changing gasket water reduction reduces almost 80 percent but bubbles were still forming on hot engine so today my mechanic tightened head bolts and i think my problem is solved ...so before gasket replacement try it once.

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    thanks aoun brother will surely go for the head bolt tightening tomorrow ,btw did your mechanic use a torque wrench to tighten your head bolts if yes please ask him the particular torque figure he used and which gasket did he use the metal one or the fiber one
    plz let me know asap
    thanks

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    Quote Originally Posted by billa69 View Post
    can you specify on what magnitude/torque should I tighten the head bolts again and is there some sort of sequence/pattern we have to follow while tightening them
    For such a specialized suggestion give a question to Xulfiqar.

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    Quote Originally Posted by billa69 View Post
    thanks aoun brother will surely go for the head bolt tightening tomorrow ,btw did your mechanic use a torque wrench to tighten your head bolts if yes please ask him the particular torque figure he used and which gasket did he use the metal one or the fiber one
    plz let me know asap
    thanks
    i dont knw abt torque wrench...and he didnt use metal gasket as he told me metal one comes with original engine but when gasket is changed fiber one is used.I also asked from honda 3s and they replied the same.

  6. #45
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    the tightening values are this - convert to Nm if required

    stage 1 = 15 lb/ft
    stage 2 = 36 lb/ft
    stage 3 = 49 lb/ft
    stage 4 = retighten bolt 1 and 2 to 49 lb/ft again after 10 minutes

    bolt sequence

    7 6 1 3 X
    9 4 2 5 8

    the bolt threads should be buffed clean and the bolt holes should be run with a tap (aka tub in local mechanic language) - to clean those threads too - the bolt threads should be oiled very lightly - 1 drop of singer machine oil on them before inserting them into the holes, when they are 99% in their holes - put a drop of engine oil on the washers, now tighten in the stages mentioned above.

    btw there is no Honda part no. for any sort of fiber heaggasket for this engine, There is only a metal headgasket. Its only one time useable as it has ridges on it that actually seal the head to the block.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    This cold pressure you are talking about , isnt it more of a negative pressure? I do have this in my system and i thought it was normal.

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    People tend to just hear the sound of air rushing and think its pressure, if coolant or the cap ejects from the cap then its pressure - this can also be verified first by squeezing a pipe - if its rock hard, then the system has pressure.

    But this is done only after 1 minute of cold start.

    If the system held vacuum (negative pressure) then the system is perfectly OK.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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