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Thread: Civic 99 Acceleration/ deceleration jerk

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    Question Civic 99 Acceleration/ deceleration jerk

    Salam all PWs

    my car gives a jerk when i press acceleration specially in 1st & 2nd gear & while starting from hault. its like clutch engaging with a thump or like engine having excessive play. i hope u understand wat i want 2 say caz i can't find exact words to explain it.
    whenever i move it 4m stop it feels like clutch engages with a thump but i hav checked the clutch. it doesn't slip any speed or gear.
    my gears r also smooth, they never get stuck nor their is any play in the gear shifter. its almost solid as new.
    At watever speed i m moving, when i leave pedal, i feel a jerk, then same jerk on acceleration.
    i know abt the fuel cut off thingy but its different.
    i hav already checked axles but they r fine.
    the mounts doesnt looks damaged apparently but may b the culprit.

    kindly suggest something as i feel embarrassed when driving with somebody & it feels like they think i dont know how to drive.
    usually i hav to use excessive clutch to hide that jerk.

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    plz check ICV, and clean throttle body. hook up scan guage or something to get readings of tps sensor. adjust those values.. hope ur problem will be solved inshAllah
    anti BLING BLING!
    Turbo just kicked in wait, Vtec just kicked in wait, Turbo just kicked in YO!

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    ^ i think u got me wrong. the engine doesnt take a jerk, its only like tyres having excessive play forward & backward. engine is smooth without any hiccups.
    btw TB & IACV r clean, tps is correctly calibrated.

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    Raise car on jack and inspect inner axle joint by rotating wheel slowly forward and backward - any freeplay will cause the jerk you mention.

    This jerk is also called clutch grab which is caused by warped pressure plate fingers, oiled and cooked clutch friction plate or simply not burnishing a new clutch friction plate.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    ^ ya there is play when rotating tyres on jack. Wat to do?
    Btw wat is Burnishing?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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    @mods how to subcribe with out posting1/????? i miss the good old day just a few months ago.

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    Dear do check your butterfly and your accelerator cable....
    It takes 8,460 bolts to assemble an automobile, and one nut to scatter it all over the road.

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    Quote Originally Posted by irfan44 View Post
    ^ ya there is play when rotating tyres on jack. Wat to do?
    Btw wat is Burnishing?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Bro I'm almost sure this is an issue with one of the axles (CV joint or "goada").
    Death is not the greatest loss in life. The greatest loss is what dies inside us while we live.

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    This has got nothing to do with butterfly, throttle cable or any other parts of the sort.

    I'm pretty sure it's one of the reasons Mr.Xulfiqar stated, apart from that I'll add that you need to get all your engine mounts checked, specifically the rear and front mounts, you'll need to jack up the car as the rear mount isn't located very conveniently. They might seem full of life but once unmounted, I'm sure one of them will be a torn/leaked.
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    @all
    I m a hobbiest as it comes to mechanical things so I m sure all the stuff like butterfly, cable, tps, cv joints etc r in order as I very frequently check them.
    Btw I rechecked them 2day as well & all is good.
    I've changed almost everything except the ball joints (I think they seem to Hav slight play)
    Clutch or gear work never done since I got it 2 years back except gear oil change.
    It had a gear oil leak a few months back, the mechanic said it can b the main seal but I didn't get it done as it dropped only abt 1 drop when parked 4 whole night. But the oil leak magically disappeared. Offcourse I rechecked the gear oil & found it full.
    May b as XULFIQAR said this gear oil leak has taken its toll & affected the pressure plate or clutch plate already.
    Or
    It's the engine mounts as per ROHAANSAEED caz I never changed them.


    Sent from Somwhere using His Thumb

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    Quote Originally Posted by Proverbial_Slang View Post
    Bro I'm almost sure this is an issue with one of the axles (CV joint or "goada").
    the way to check goddas/cv joints is to turn wheel to 1 side & drive. isn't it?
    i hav checked it that way & it doesn't produce any tick tick etc so i think its ok

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    pressure plate problem
    Life is short and very unpredictable just like a Quarter mile .....

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    1st step after ur valuable comments will b 2 change engine mounts. can any1 qoute a price alongwith brand?
    @Xulfiqar
    kindly explain Burnishing as i might have to get the Clutch job done.

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    ivfound something interesting on a site & thought it might b helpfull to all. so i m shring it

    There are five types of clutch problems- slipping, grabbing, dragging, abnormal noises, and vibration. It is important to know the symptoms produced by these problems and the parts that might be the cause.

    Slipping
    Slipping occurs when the driven disc fails to rotate at the same speed as the driving members when the clutch is fully engaged. This condition results whenever the clutch pressure plate fails to hold the disc tight against the face of the flywheel. If clutch slippage is severe, the engine speed will rise rapidly on acceleration, while the vehicle gradually increases in speed. Slight but continuous slippage may go unnoticed until the clutch facings are ruined by excessive temperature caused by friction.

    Normal wear of the clutch lining causes the free travel of the clutch linkage to decrease, creating the need for adjustment. Improper clutch adjustment can cause slippage by keeping the release bearing in contact with the pressure plate in the released position. Even with your foot off the pedal, the release mechanism will act on the clutch fork and release bearing.
    Some clutch linkages are designed to allow only enough adjustment to compensate for the lining to wear close to the rivet heads. This prevents damage to the flywheel and pressure plate by the rivets wearing grooves in their smooth surfaces.
    Other linkages will allow for adjustment after the disc is worn out. When in doubt whether the disc is worn excessively, remove the inspection cover on the clutch housing and visually inspect the disc.
    Binding linkage prevents the pressure plate from exerting its full pressure against the disc, allowing it to slip. Inspect the release mechanism for rusted, bent, misaligned, sticking, or damaged components. Wiggle the release fork to check for free play. These problems result in slippage.
    A broken motor mount (engine mount) can cause clutch slippage by allowing the engine to move, binding the clutch linkage. Under load, the engine can lift up in the engine compartment, shifting the clutch linkage and pushing on the release fork.
    Grease and oil on the disc will also cause slippage. When this occurs, locate and stop any leakage, thoroughly clean the clutch components, and replace the clutch disc. This is the only remedy.
    If clutch slippage is NOT caused by a problem with the clutch release mechanism, then the trouble is normally inside the clutch. You have to remove the transmission and clutch components for further inspection. Internal clutch problems, such as weak springs and bent or improperly adjusted release levers, will prevent the pressure plate from applying even pressure. This condition allows the disc to slip.
    To test the clutch for slippage, set the emergency brake and start the engine. Place the transmission or transaxle in high gear. Then try to drive the vehicle forward by slowly releasing the clutch pedal. A clutch in good condition should lock up and immediately kill the engine. A badly slipping clutch may allow the engine to run, even with the clutch pedal fully released. Partial clutch slippage could let the engine run momentarily before stalling.

    NOTE
    Never let a clutch slip for more than a second or two. The extreme heat generated by slippage will damage the flywheel and pressure plate faces.


    Grabbing
    A grabbing or chattering clutch will produce a very severe vibration or jerking motion when the vehicle is accelerated from a standstill. Even when the operator slowly releases the clutch pedal, it will seem like the clutch pedal is being pumped rapidly up and down. A loud bang or chattering may be heard, as the vehicle body vibrates.

    Clutch grabbing and chatter is caused by problems with components inside the clutch housing (friction disc, flywheel, or pressure plate). Other reasons for a grabbing clutch could be due to oil or grease on the disc facings, glazing, or loose disc facings. Broken parts in the clutch, such as broken disc facings, broken facing springs, or a broken pressure plate, will also cause grabbing.
    There are several things outside of the clutch that will cause a clutch to grab or chatter when it is being engaged. Loose spring shackles or U-bolts, loose transmission mounts, and worn engine mounts are among the items to be checked. If the clutch linkage binds, it may release suddenly to throw the clutch into quick engagement, resulting in a heavy jerk. However, if all these items are checked and found to be in good condition, the trouble is inside the clutch itself and will have to be removed for repair.

    Dragging
    A dragging clutch will make the transmission or transaxle grind when trying to engage or shift gears. This condition results when the clutch disc does not completely disengage from the flywheel or pressure plate when the clutch pedal is depressed. As a result, the clutch disc tends to continue turning with the engine and attempts to drive the transmission.

    The most common cause of a dragging clutch is too much clutch pedal free travel. With excessive free travel, the pressure plate will not fully release when the clutch pedal is pushed to the floor. Always check the clutch adjustments first. If adjustment of the linkage does not correct the trouble, the problem is in the clutch, which must be removed for repair.
    On the inside of the clutch housing, you will generally find a warped disc or pressure plate, oil or grease on the friction surface, rusted or damaged transmission input shaft, or improper adjustment of the pressure plate release levers causing the problem.

    Abnormal Noises
    Faulty clutch parts can make various noises. When an operator reports that a clutch is making noise, find out when the noise is heard. Does the sound occur when the pedal is moved, when in neutral, when in gear, or when the pedal is held to the floor? This will assist you in determining which parts are producing these noises.

    An operator reports hearing a scraping, clunking, or squeaking sound when the clutch pedal is moved up or down. This is a good sign of a worn or unlubricated clutch release mechanism. With the engine off, pump the pedal and listen for the sound. Once the source of the sound is located, you should clean, lubricate, or replace the parts as required.
    Sounds produced from the clutch, when the clutch is initially ENGAGED, are generally due to friction disc problems, such as a worn clutch disc facing, which causes a metal-to-metal grinding sound. A rattling or a knocking sound may be produced by weak or broken clutch disc torsion springs. These sounds indicate problems that require the removal of the transmission and clutch assembly for repair.
    If clutch noises are noticeable when the clutch is DISENGAGED, the trouble is most likely the clutch release bearing. The bearing is probably either worn, binding, or, in some cases, loses its lubricant. Most clutch release bearings are factory lubricated; however, on some larger trucks and construction equipment, the bearing requires periodic lubrication. A worn pilot bearing may also produce noises when the clutch is disengaged. The worn pilot bearing can let the transmission input shaft and clutch disc vibrate up and down, causing an unusual noise.
    Sounds heard in NEUTRAL, that disappear when the clutch pedal is pushed, are caused by problems inside the transmission. Many of these sounds are due to worn bearings. However, always refer to the troubleshooting chart in the manufacturer's manual.

    Pedal Pulsation
    A pulsating clutch pedal is caused by the runout (wobble or vibration) of one of the rotating members of the clutch assembly. A series of slight movements can be felt on the clutch pedal. These pulsations are noticeable when light foot pressure is applied. This is an indication of trouble that could result in serious damage if not corrected immediately. There are several conditions that can cause these pulsations. One possible cause is misalignment of the transmission and engine.

    If the transmission and engine are not in line, detach the transmission and remove the clutch assembly. Check the clutch housing alignment with the engine and crankshaft. At the same time, the flywheel can be checked for runout, since a bent flywheel or crankshaft flange will produce clutch pedal pulsation. If the flywheel does not seat on the crankshaft flange, remove the flywheel. After cleaning the crankshaft flange and flywheel, replace the flywheel, making sure a positive seat is obtained between the flywheel and the flange. If the flange is bent, the crankshaft must be replaced.
    Other causes of clutch pedal pulsation include bent or maladjusted pressure plate release levers, warped pressure plate, or warped clutch disc. If either the clutch disc or pressure plate is warped, they must be replaced.

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    How much is your car driven so far? Clutch jerks are usually felt when a brand new clutch assembly is just installed right on without proper 'laeth machine' adjustment. Your case is different, just get the mounts checked and transmission as well, just in case.

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    i pondered on the clutch again today. found out following symtoms
    - there is only 1 thump when moving 4m stop but if the car is moving at very slow speed & i change gear & donot press hard & let it cruise then its series of jerks fading away in 3-4 jerks.
    - when i accelerate hard i feel very feeble jerks during acceleration. but the weird thing is that same feeble jerks r also felt during deceleration when in gear & clutch engaged (not pressed) but if clutch pressed then no jerks. isn't it the sign of slight clutch slippage? if there would hav been some other problems like plugs, wires, tps etc etc then it should not affect anything on deceleration.
    - i mentioned gear oil leakage earlier which might b the cause of oily clutch disc making it to slip & grab.

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    Quote Originally Posted by rohaansaeed View Post
    How much is your car driven so far? Clutch jerks are usually felt when a brand new clutch assembly is just installed right on without proper 'laeth machine' adjustment. Your case is different, just get the mounts checked and transmission as well, just in case.
    it has a swapped engine so cant tell how much it is driven but my guess is that trany must be the same old 1 as it is not normally swapped with motor. so it must hav around 2 lack kms on it.
    by laeth machine adjustment u mean surfacing of flywheel before attaching pressure plate?

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    If you're accelerating and feeling the jerks, that could be related only to the transmission, when the mounts are weak, your car will jerk at slow speeds and you'll have to depress the clutch pedal to prevent it from jerking and stalling. If you suspect your transmission had leaks and is somehow damaged, then just unmount the transmission and get it checked, engine mounts will come off during the same job. 200,000km is nothing for a Honda transmission, my Accord's transmission never gave a single problem even though it had around 450,000km+ on the clock, these things are made to last, unless they're abused frequently.

    So yeah, take out time on a weekend, unmount the tranny and the engine, check whether everything is fine, get the tranny checked by an expert and you'll have a trouble free car accordingly.
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    Quote Originally Posted by rohaansaeed View Post
    So yeah, take out time on a weekend, unmount the tranny and the engine, check whether everything is fine, get the tranny checked by an expert and you'll have a trouble free car accordingly.
    y the engine?
    can't i just unmount trany?

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    Quote Originally Posted by irfan44 View Post
    y the engine?
    can't i just unmount trany?
    Support the engine via a pulley, check all the mounts, once in a blue moon job, totally worth it though.
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