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Thread: Civic 99 Acceleration/ deceleration jerk

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    Question Civic 99 Acceleration/ deceleration jerk

    Salam all PWs

    my car gives a jerk when i press acceleration specially in 1st & 2nd gear & while starting from hault. its like clutch engaging with a thump or like engine having excessive play. i hope u understand wat i want 2 say caz i can't find exact words to explain it.
    whenever i move it 4m stop it feels like clutch engages with a thump but i hav checked the clutch. it doesn't slip any speed or gear.
    my gears r also smooth, they never get stuck nor their is any play in the gear shifter. its almost solid as new.
    At watever speed i m moving, when i leave pedal, i feel a jerk, then same jerk on acceleration.
    i know abt the fuel cut off thingy but its different.
    i hav already checked axles but they r fine.
    the mounts doesnt looks damaged apparently but may b the culprit.

    kindly suggest something as i feel embarrassed when driving with somebody & it feels like they think i dont know how to drive.
    usually i hav to use excessive clutch to hide that jerk.

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    I checked the mounts by another method.
    I applied the hand brake & tried moving the car & the engine doesn't mov a bit backward or forward. I think this clears out the mounts


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    I just unscrewed the slave cylinder to lubricate it as it was making Chee Chee noise on pressing but found the whole area dirty with gunk. Even it was inside. The boot was ok but even then it was dirty from inside. The lever was moving & ratling freely. Is it ok or there should b some spring action?
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    Quote Originally Posted by irfan44 View Post
    ^ ya there is play when rotating tyres on jack. Wat to do?
    Btw wat is Burnishing?


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    Quote Originally Posted by irfan44 View Post
    the way to check goddas/cv joints is to turn wheel to 1 side & drive. isn't it?
    i hav checked it that way & it doesn't produce any tick tick etc so i think its ok
    The car moving while fully turned sideways check is for outer CV joints, the raised on jack and wheel movement check is for inner joints, if they are loose then you will have such thumping.

    Quote Originally Posted by rohaansaeed View Post
    If you're accelerating and feeling the jerks, that could be related only to the transmission, when the mounts are weak, your car will jerk at slow speeds and you'll have to depress the clutch pedal to prevent it from jerking and stalling. If you suspect your transmission had leaks and is somehow damaged, then just unmount the transmission and get it checked, engine mounts will come off during the same job. 200,000km is nothing for a Honda transmission, my Accord's transmission never gave a single problem even though it had around 450,000km+ on the clock, these things are made to last, unless they're abused frequently.

    So yeah, take out time on a weekend, unmount the tranny and the engine, check whether everything is fine, get the tranny checked by an expert and you'll have a trouble free car accordingly.

    Honda transmissions surely work for a long time but require regular oil changes with correct oil, which is at minimum API SH 15W40 antifoaming engine oil. But the problem is that ustaad in his holiness pours SAE140 GL3 gear oil in it and then wonders why the gears are super stiff in the morning and then says 'fail teknalojy hai" when the syncro rings wear out by constant drag clash in less than 25,000 kms and the P/S speed sensor also gives up.
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    Quote Originally Posted by irfan44 View Post
    I just unscrewed the slave cylinder to lubricate it as it was making Chee Chee noise on pressing but found the whole area dirty with gunk. Even it was inside. The boot was ok but even then it was dirty from inside. The lever was moving & ratling freely. Is it ok or there should b some spring action?

    Sent from Somwhere using His Thumb
    There is a small return spring that doesnt do much. The real clutch action is the lever function of the pressure plate fingers which cannot be done by human hand. The insides would be really dirty from the wearing out of the clutch friction plate material over time, just like brake pads cause a mess on the wheels - the clutch plate causes a mess in the transmission housing.

    It should not be oily. If its oily then you have a leak and need to correct that immediately. The oil can be from either the engine or the transmission.

    btw your slave cylinder is quite rusty, put some silicone grease on the end under its boot and change the fluid in it. It would be like ink by now and pretty much useless as hydraulic fluid.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    There is a small return spring that doesnt do much. The real clutch action is the lever function of the pressure plate fingers which cannot be done by human hand. The insides would be really dirty from the wearing out of the clutch friction plate material over time, just like brake pads cause a mess on the wheels - the clutch plate causes a mess in the transmission housing.

    It should not be oily. If its oily then you have a leak and need to correct that immediately. The oil can be from either the engine or the transmission.

    btw your slave cylinder is quite rusty, put some silicone grease on the end under its boot and change the fluid in it. It would be like ink by now and pretty much useless as hydraulic fluid.
    ya i greased it. couldn't look inside cylinder being awkward angle. i will flush the whole clutch line & put new oil. how much does it take.?
    btw i replaced gear oil with Zic gear FF API GL3 75w85 & it is as smooth in morning as at noon. no grinding or hardness.

    @Xulfiqar
    u didn't comment on condition of clutch/pressure plate 4m the symptoms i mentioned earlier. should i change both?

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    drain that gear oil immediately - Honda manuals do NOT use thick gear oil, get 2.5 litres of Caltex Delo Gold 15W40 engine oil and fill it with that.

    btw burnishing is also known as bedding in the clutch - you have to slowly let the pressure plate bite the clutch plate repeatedly over a period of a week before you can use it hard.

    If the clutch disc is soaked with oil you need a new one, best practice is to replace the pressure plate too.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    drain that gear oil immediately - Honda manuals do NOT use thick gear oil, get 2.5 litres of Caltex Delo Gold 15W40 engine oil and fill it with that.
    but i searched internet found most people saying that honda mtf is also 70w90 or near. btw mostly they used synchromesh in same grading. & abt draining it imediately, i've already drove on it a few thousand kms, so few more days won't do any more harm.
    wat abt getting honda mtf in it?

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    out of many qoutes here is 1 from honda-tech
    also another thing that needs to be pointed out is the people saying 75w80 75w90 etc gear oil is to heavy of an oil....little do they know this is about equal to a SAE 10w30 rated motor oil. Honda mtf is "mtf spec" mtf-7289 and made by chevron/texaco and is a gl-4 70w80 gear oil. Then honda came out with the MTF II which was very "thin" compared to the original MTF and they also have MTF III which has much higher viscosity then either and is about on par with a 75w90 gear oil or SAE 10w40 motor oil.

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    Look it up in the owners manual and also in the service manual - I had a book printed by Chevron which was dated 2007 - it had lube recommendations for HD, agriculture, stationary, marine and automotive applications including - the entire honda line up had chevron delo 400 as the recommended lube in the M/T.

    The old Honda Accords had it explicitly written in the owners manual to use Honda MTF and in case it was not available then 10W30 API SG engine oil is substituted with same change interval as Honda MTF. The same MTF part no. is still in use.
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    Update

    The inner cv joints Hav been diagnosed as culprits for the jerk. Will replace them after eid. Any suggestions on repair or new purchase?
    Abt the slight jerks on acceleration/deceleration will b diagnosed after repair of cv joints issue.


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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    Look it up in the owners manual and also in the service manual - I had a book printed by Chevron which was dated 2007 - it had lube recommendations for HD, agriculture, stationary, marine and automotive applications including - the entire honda line up had chevron delo 400 as the recommended lube in the M/T.

    The old Honda Accords had it explicitly written in the owners manual to use Honda MTF and in case it was not available then 10W30 API SG engine oil is substituted with same change interval as Honda MTF. The same MTF part no. is still in use.
    U r absolutely right abt it Xulfiqar. The old Honda manuals till 95 explicitly advised motor oil to b used in transmission but later it was replaced with Honda mtf.
    Chevron still recommends its Delo 400 in compatible transmissions on their web site but they Hav reduced the compatibility list.
    The reasons r
    - till 95 Honda had not developed any MTF & recommended engine oil.
    - after 95 with some change in car equipment / metallurgy, the composition of engine oil was changed internationally & some components were removed as they were harmful to new metal. Honda transmissions depended on that components to work well so Honda had to develop their own MTF & they changed manuals to Honda MTF after 95. But u can still use engine oil as a substitute.
    I wil soon post specs of Honda MTF, Delo 400 & Zic Gear FF for comparison.



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    the only thing the Honda MTF has is antifoaming additives - which are already present in the high end Delo oils, its also used in hydraulic pumps.
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    Quote Originally Posted by irfan44 View Post
    Update

    The inner cv joints Hav been diagnosed as culprits for the jerk. Will replace them after eid. Any suggestions on repair or new purchase?
    Abt the slight jerks on acceleration/deceleration will b diagnosed after repair of cv joints issue.


    Sent from Somwhere using His Thumb
    If you have free play in the inner joints, check the tripod spider for looseness and missing rollers, If the housing itself is gouged - replace it - DO NOT TRY TO REPAIR IT. The recommended grease for the tripod joint is NLGI2 EP wheel bearing grease. I would prefer to use synthetic wheel bearing grease just for longevity.
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    Can u tell me availability of that grease in local market. I mean by wat brand it came or in ustaad language wat they call it. Caz all they use is some local made grease which is not at all bearing or high temp grease. It leaks out as liquid when hot.
    Btw should I go 4 qabli joints at local kabaar caz I don't think I will find any good stuff at shops here. All they recommend & keep r Chinese parts caz they r cheap. But I don't like em. Better to spend once then every month.


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    That grease is regular lithium soap wheel bearing grease - mobil had started to sell their tube cartridges of this grease, caltex, shell, PSO, FUCHS etc all carry this grease. Call around.

    Grease is supposed to liquify slightly at the working temperature, if it remains stiff and the quantity is low - your part will sieze in very short time. Just like when this grease is in a wheel bearing - it actually moves through the bearing.
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    Update

    I got it checked. There is no play in outer or inner cv joints. The play seems to b on the inside of transmission where axles r coupled.
    I don't want to get the transmission opened so I think I hav to "LIVE WITH THE JERK" or "DRIVE WITH A JERK" forever.
    Any suggestions


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    The mechanic sys the CV joints r ok but the play is in the differential inside the gearbox. can anybody tell me wat can b done & wat must b the cause?

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    Hi Please get check your ignition coils as well plug cables. hopefully problem will be fixed & ride become more smooth. Good luck....

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    ^thnx 4 advice but the problem is mechanical 4 sure. Not electrical


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    I know I'm reviving an old thread but was the problem fixed in the end?

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