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Thread: Civic 95 starter motor problem

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    Default Civic 95 starter motor problem

    i have civic 95 .my car take half self when it is cold as soon as car needle comes in center and i switch off the car and then try to start all i hear is nothing .leave car for 5 to 10 min and all become normal.
    change bushes of starter but all in vain


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    there are two mettallic (copper i guess) bushes in starter .. may be when one of them heats up, it looses a grip slightly .. the motor centre goes out and it refuses to turn .. cooling down makes a snug fit and it works ... the other thing that comes to mind is loose battery terminal but it shouldn't follow a pattern
    "You have not lived today until you have done something for someone who can never repay you."

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    Quote Originally Posted by askai37 View Post
    i have civic 95 .my car take half self when it is cold as soon as car needle comes in center and i switch off the car and then try to start all i hear is nothing .leave car for 5 to 10 min and all become normal.
    change bushes of starter but all in vain
    there are carbon brushes as well ... so i'm assuming that when u write bushes you r refering to carbon brushes not the solid metal type round bushes .. but if u have changed the bushes (copper ones ) then look for a loose connection specially the heavy wires
    "You have not lived today until you have done something for someone who can never repay you."

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    bushes which i replace means metal rings one at front and second on back of stater.remember when car heats up no cranking and lights of cng meter dims.

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    you are facing what is called hot soak problem - in this case your ignition switch contacts are worn to the point that the required amps to pull in the solenoid of the starter are not being bridged.

    To test the starter itself when hot, apply 12V direct to the solenoid plunger, if the starter spins - its good and the problem is in the wiring or the ignition switch. To verify the switch - you need a 12V sealed headlamp from a bolan, ravi etc, and connect both high and low together, and earth it appropriately, connect the starter small wire to the lamp, It should glow bright - if its dim you dont have the required amps coming through.

    To remedy this you need to either replace the switch or install a HD relay in the starter circuit.

    The reason I said to use a headlamp and not a test lamp is because the headlamp with both filaments connected is that it will apply a load of 10 amps to the circuit, About nearly the same what is required to pull in the starter solenoid.

    btw - the bushings you replaced are originally zeolite - which is porous material and is lubed for life, if you used anything else then it will be short lived, you should also have applied a dab of FRESH CV joint grease to the ends. Also a very very light coating of CV joint grease on the entire ring gear on the flywheel and starter gear.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    I think Solenoid Plunger has problem local Mechanic called it " Self Kuppi " in Punjab. For testing replace battery . check wiring from ignition switch to Solenoid plunger (thin wire) and check for lose connection from battery to starter motor (Thick wires) and from -ve terminal of bat to engine and car chassis. Follow the instructions/Directions of Xulfiqar bro.

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