Survey by Qualaroo
+ Reply to Thread
Results 1 to 16 of 16

Thread: honda civic 1997 performance issues

  1. #1
    PakWheeler Follow
    danyal6's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Lahore
    Posts
    89
    Follows
    0
    Following
    1
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Problems Posted
    0
    Problems Solved
    0
    Best Answers
    0
    Good Answers
    0

    Default honda civic 1997 performance issues

    salam PWs,
    now the car about which i have already mentioned had its check engine light on for,round about a year but driven without considering it as nothing was felt while sitting behind the wheel,but until recently the car started behaving as if im tired of driving with that check light on,so after a search took the car to Pak autos near choburji and had it fixed,those are some really honest people there. But the problem,some part of it still persists which im just going to tell u people.
    when the car is first started there is some immense ratting noise resonating from underside of the bonnet which really makes it sound like a tractor but to my amazement that sound just disappers when the car reaches it operating temperature and the car really starts sounding as it should,then after all that,the rpm of the car being just below the 1000rpm starts to tremble slowly touching the 1000rpm mark and then going back to its position,and does that almost all the time,
    then while driving the gear shifting of the car has really worsened everytime giving a jolt when engaing the gear and taking the foot off the pedal, also when the car is being driven in higher gears and for example the car is at 3000rpm,the foot is taken off from the throttle,instead of slowing down momentarily it seems to grip a lot more than engines normally do and then letting go near 1500rpm as if the clutch has been engaged,and if the car is accelarated during this it just not accelerates smoothly,there is again a jolt and then no response from the throttle whatsoever!!
    BTW the check engine light was for a knock sensor and a crank shaft position sensor,this might give people a hint if anyother sensor is out of its calibration as im expecting it to be the TPS.check engine light is not on now!!
    i really need help because this car is no more fun to drive as it used to be before the check light was on!!

    TIA!!!

    WANT TO KNOW THE ONLY SOLUTION TO OUR CONGLOMERATE PROBLEMS,?? its khilafat!!!!

  2. #2
    PakWheeler Follow
    danyal6's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Lahore
    Posts
    89
    Follows
    0
    Following
    1
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Problems Posted
    0
    Problems Solved
    0
    Best Answers
    0
    Good Answers
    0

    Default

    also,when idling,if the car is revved to 3000rpm,instead of coming down smoothly,the needle flicks near the desired and position touching the 1000rpm mark and then coming down to where required and then stars fluctuating!
    WANT TO KNOW THE ONLY SOLUTION TO OUR CONGLOMERATE PROBLEMS,?? its khilafat!!!!

  3. #3
    PakWheeler Follow
    Mechanical_Engg's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Lahore
    Age
    30
    Posts
    48
    Follows
    0
    Following
    0
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Problems Posted
    0
    Problems Solved
    0
    Best Answers
    0
    Good Answers
    0

    Default

    when did you last get your throttle body serviced???

  4. #4
    PakWheeler Follow
    judgevt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Faisalabad
    Posts
    95
    Follows
    0
    Following
    0
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Problems Posted
    0
    Problems Solved
    0
    Best Answers
    0
    Good Answers
    0

    Default

    Your having all these problems because of your crankshaft position sensor,the ignition timing will go out of calibration and cause your engine to knock,this will also make your knock sensor work overtime and trigger off a knock sensor fault.
    The crankshaft position sensor will be in your distributor or near the crankshaft pulley area..

  5. #5
    PakWheeler Follow
    danyal6's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Lahore
    Posts
    89
    Follows
    0
    Following
    1
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Problems Posted
    0
    Problems Solved
    0
    Best Answers
    0
    Good Answers
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Mechanical_Engg View Post
    when did you last get your throttle body serviced???
    yeah i think it has been 10 to 15k since its throttle body was serviced.
    WANT TO KNOW THE ONLY SOLUTION TO OUR CONGLOMERATE PROBLEMS,?? its khilafat!!!!

  6. #6
    PakWheeler Follow
    danyal6's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Lahore
    Posts
    89
    Follows
    0
    Following
    1
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Problems Posted
    0
    Problems Solved
    0
    Best Answers
    0
    Good Answers
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Mechanical_Engg View Post
    when did you last get your throttle body serviced???
    it has driven 10 to 15k kms since since its throtlle body was serviced,planning to have it serviced soon and also all the sensors around it to be calibrated!
    WANT TO KNOW THE ONLY SOLUTION TO OUR CONGLOMERATE PROBLEMS,?? its khilafat!!!!

  7. #7
    PakWheeler Follow
    danyal6's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Lahore
    Posts
    89
    Follows
    0
    Following
    1
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Problems Posted
    0
    Problems Solved
    0
    Best Answers
    0
    Good Answers
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by judgevt View Post
    Your having all these problems because of your crankshaft position sensor,the ignition timing will go out of calibration and cause your engine to knock,this will also make your knock sensor work overtime and trigger off a knock sensor fault.
    The crankshaft position sensor will be in your distributor or near the crankshaft pulley area..
    brother as i said that both the sensors have been taken care of as both of them were faulty showing check engine light.but now the check engine light is no more switched on but the symptoms are still there. Now what should be done,should i have the CSPS replaced as it was repaired by the technician himself,i had the sensor but he didnt replace it rather he said that he can repair it and check engine light would vanish and it did, so now what should be done in order to make car run right.should i have its timing set by the actual method of timing gun and stuff cuz these untrained do it by just listening to the car!
    WANT TO KNOW THE ONLY SOLUTION TO OUR CONGLOMERATE PROBLEMS,?? its khilafat!!!!

  8. #8
    PakWheeler Follow
    judgevt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Faisalabad
    Posts
    95
    Follows
    0
    Following
    0
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Problems Posted
    0
    Problems Solved
    0
    Best Answers
    0
    Good Answers
    0

    Default

    salaam brother,you say your mechanic repaired the csps.what did he repair???unless it had a broken wire or bad wire connection then yes thats ok other than that i would replace it.As for the ignition timing it needs to be done with a timing gun at normal engine temp with a bridge wire across the MIL connector plug.

  9. #9
    PakWheeler Follow
    danyal6's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Lahore
    Posts
    89
    Follows
    0
    Following
    1
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Problems Posted
    0
    Problems Solved
    0
    Best Answers
    0
    Good Answers
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by judgevt View Post
    salaam brother,you say your mechanic repaired the csps.what did he repair???unless it had a broken wire or bad wire connection then yes thats ok other than that i would replace it.As for the ignition timing it needs to be done with a timing gun at normal engine temp with a bridge wire across the MIL connector plug.
    wasalam brother,yes the mechanic told me that a wire was broken and he replaced the wire,okay so now i think i should have its timing set becuase i think its way out of its actual timing. thanks for your input!!
    WANT TO KNOW THE ONLY SOLUTION TO OUR CONGLOMERATE PROBLEMS,?? its khilafat!!!!

  10. #10
    PakWheeler Follow
    bilalahsan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Islamabad
    Age
    46
    Posts
    459
    Follows
    0
    Following
    0
    Mentioned
    6 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Problems Posted
    0
    Problems Solved
    0
    Best Answers
    0
    Good Answers
    0

    Default

    Its look like your CKP sensor has gone bad.

  11. #11
    PakWheeler Follow
    danyal6's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Lahore
    Posts
    89
    Follows
    0
    Following
    1
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Problems Posted
    0
    Problems Solved
    0
    Best Answers
    0
    Good Answers
    0

    Default

    but brother there is no engine check light shown by the ECU? i dont thing thats the issue cuz it was and is solved!
    WANT TO KNOW THE ONLY SOLUTION TO OUR CONGLOMERATE PROBLEMS,?? its khilafat!!!!

  12. #12
    PakWheeler Follow
    irfan44's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Faisalabad
    Posts
    867
    Follows
    1
    Following
    0
    Mentioned
    11 Post(s)
    Tagged
    1 Thread(s)
    Problems Posted
    0
    Problems Solved
    0
    Best Answers
    0
    Good Answers
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by danyal6 View Post
    but brother there is no engine check light shown by the ECU? i dont thing thats the issue cuz it was and is solved!
    Did he solve the CEL cause or he just disconnected it? kindly confirm that. many people do that. its just like closing ur eyes & thinking that u r invisible.
    kindly check ur timing 1st. then we can go ahead.

  13. #13
    PakWheeler Follow
    danyal6's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Lahore
    Posts
    89
    Follows
    0
    Following
    1
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Problems Posted
    0
    Problems Solved
    0
    Best Answers
    0
    Good Answers
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by irfan44 View Post
    Did he solve the CEL cause or he just disconnected it? kindly confirm that. many people do that. its just like closing ur eyes & thinking that u r invisible.
    kindly check ur timing 1st. then we can go ahead.
    sorry i was away for some time cudnt attend this thread.aah im not sure about the CEL,what is it? is it that a computer is attached with the car and run to monitor the signals from the sensors? plz explain what is it? aah after the mechanic finished his job,i asked him to adjust its timing but with proper gun and stuff,but instead what he did that loosened the distributor and pushed it totally to the end which is towards the front of the car, now i didnt force him much cuz it seemed odd to me,i think he did that because he thought that the car wud be run on cng but there is none available or less frequently. i showed him the problem and he abruptly said that this work is of some mechanic as they cal themselves EFI specialists or electricians.he said its something in clutch plates but they have been changed like 30k kms before!
    WANT TO KNOW THE ONLY SOLUTION TO OUR CONGLOMERATE PROBLEMS,?? its khilafat!!!!

  14. #14
    Senior PakWheeler Follow
    afnan.bashir's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    1,994
    Follows
    5
    Following
    0
    Mentioned
    147 Post(s)
    Tagged
    6 Thread(s)
    Problems Posted
    0
    Problems Solved
    0
    Best Answers
    0
    Good Answers
    0

    Default

    Sorry for reviving the thread again. My car has similar problem and if it is driven aggresively check light comes on. I learned through my car. My car was 92 accord with altered CF-3 engine and with F23A ECU so some pathan made it to run but i am sorting bit by bit.

    anyway its not necessary Knock Sensor light comes on when your car is normally driven. If you drive aggresively it comes on when RPM reach high. Knock sensor automatically adjursts the timing by hearing knocking sound from this sensor. its a mic. its necessary you find service check connector and see what codes are there
    93 Accord CB7 (Sold) / 2005 CL7

  15. #15
    Senior PakWheeler Follow
    Xulfiqar's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Other
    Age
    38
    Posts
    24,399
    Follows
    131
    Following
    0
    Mentioned
    3985 Post(s)
    Tagged
    93 Thread(s)
    Problems Posted
    0
    Problems Solved
    4
    Best Answers
    0
    Good Answers
    6

    Default

    the civic in question also has a crankshaft fluctuation sensor reading off the main crankshaft timing belt pulley - this actually compares the pulse to the actual crankshaft position sensor in the distributor.

    If the fluctuation sensor was reporting an error then its most probably timing belt replacement time. If the "electricians" masked it with a wiring bridge - then you would get no light but you lose that error reporting too. This also illuminates if the timing belt was not tensioned like Honda wanted. The knock sensor is at the back of the engine and dont try to muck around with it - install a NEW one only and ensure the wiring shielding is not broken. The ignition timing is always set by a timing strobe gun after shorting the check lamp connector, if you manually pushed it forwards it will not be correct.

    The other problem of transmission shift too hard is usually attributed to the kickdown cable being too tight (this also raises the shift points) - make sure its adjusted correctly. If it is correct and you have good engine mountings and yet still face shock while shifting - your transmission needs a tear down to clean out the accumulators and most probably replacemetn of their springs too. Its a common fault in FWD old Honda automatics.


    btw if your actual crankshaft position sensor had gone bad your engine would completely refuse to start as its the basis of all timing in the ECU.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

  16. #16
    PakWheeler Follow
    danyal6's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Lahore
    Posts
    89
    Follows
    0
    Following
    1
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Problems Posted
    0
    Problems Solved
    0
    Best Answers
    0
    Good Answers
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    the civic in question also has a crankshaft fluctuation sensor reading off the main crankshaft timing belt pulley - this actually compares the pulse to the actual crankshaft position sensor in the distributor.

    If the fluctuation sensor was reporting an error then its most probably timing belt replacement time. If the "electricians" masked it with a wiring bridge - then you would get no light but you lose that error reporting too. This also illuminates if the timing belt was not tensioned like Honda wanted. The knock sensor is at the back of the engine and dont try to muck around with it - install a NEW one only and ensure the wiring shielding is not broken. The ignition timing is always set by a timing strobe gun after shorting the check lamp connector, if you manually pushed it forwards it will not be correct.

    The other problem of transmission shift too hard is usually attributed to the kickdown cable being too tight (this also raises the shift points) - make sure its adjusted correctly. If it is correct and you have good engine mountings and yet still face shock while shifting - your transmission needs a tear down to clean out the accumulators and most probably replacemetn of their springs too. Its a common fault in FWD old Honda automatics.


    btw if your actual crankshaft position sensor had gone bad your engine would completely refuse to start as its the basis of all timing in the ECU.
    Im so sorry that i attented this thread after so much time, xulfiqar sir would u plz do me favour by telling me the local terminology used for this wire in the transmission and also how to check if the sensor is masked by the so called electricians.
    I will be a hell lot gratefull!
    WANT TO KNOW THE ONLY SOLUTION TO OUR CONGLOMERATE PROBLEMS,?? its khilafat!!!!

+ Reply to Thread

User Tag List

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •