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Thread: honda civic 2002 A/T issue

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    Default honda civic 2002 A/T issue

    salam , my civic 2002 cat eye (exi prosmatic), "D" started to blink, when car temperature rises (normal temp). i'm confused because it make noise on gear shifting on CNG but not on PETROL ??


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    D blinking is a sign of TCM fault, it also has a set of fault codes, Scan it to identify.
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    it gives "A/t malware" .. after scanning car take only one trip perfectly of about 2-3 km(s) .and it started to blink again . on cng it gives jerks but on petrol it is perfect ? . is there any issue related to oil ?

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    most probably sticky solenoids.
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    how to fix it ?? and how much it will be cost ?

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    remove them to clean first. they can be reached from the right side wheelhouse after removing the plastic splash shield. And always use the correct ATF, dont pour the cheap warco or unbranded ATFs in Pakistan. I have seen them destroy quite a lot of transmissions.
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    thank you very much bro .... i'm using ZIC oil for trans ..

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    i had a similar problem, my car started out fine, after a small drive, the 'D' light started to blink. what actually happening was that the transmission was able to shift 'forward' but not 'backwards', a diagnosis led to a sensor replacement.

    for all the noises and jerks, transmission oil change and cleaning of solenoids is the only solution as @Xulfiqar bhai said...
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    changing the solenoid is the solution or cleaning ???

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    for a honda owner, it is strictly advised to use the HONDA ATF. all others do not/may not perform well with automatic transmission. you have got two options now.

    one is to completely change the gear oil and drive the car slowly for around 500kms. then start pushing the car gradually. it works 90% of the times. the other 10% is resolved by changing the oil again since it is very difficult to completely drain the oil from the gear in the first attempt and the old oil mixes with the new oil.

    if it doesnt, then do as already suggested by xulfiqar. but, oil must be honda's own atf

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    thanx guys

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    Quote Originally Posted by aggressor.junaid View Post
    changing the solenoid is the solution or cleaning ???
    cleaning the solenoid is the prior solution as suggested by @Xulfiqar bhai.

    as for ATF, i've personally used ZIC Dexron III in my 7th generation civic and have been using it for a while now with no problems at all. for the transmission oil change procedure, i would qoute @Xulfiqar bhai on this as well:

    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    Flushing the trans is easy, drain and fill with the quantity removed, remove the cooler pipe that moves fluid to the radiator and put in a pan, start engine and add oil till the the oil coming from the cooler looks newish, usually the whole transmission holds about 7.5 litres so about 8 litres is enough.

    for a little insight relating to my civic's transmission, check out the thread i made when i had a problem:
    https://www.pakwheels.com/forums/eng...pstick-missing
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    Hi Guys,

    I just bought a 2005 EXI civic Prosmetic. Being a new owner i replaced it all fluids but after changing the transmission oil which is ZIC ATF iii the car starts jerking while shifting. The quantity pour was 3.5 liters and when checked via dip stick it shows normal but on engine start position when we checked again it shows the oil level UP from the mark mentioned on dip stick.
    As mechanic told that jerks in shifting after replacing transmission oil is normal which will be fixed after sometime and the oil level is also fine since we need to check it after shutting down the engine. is it?
    Please be noted that before replacing the transmission oil the shifting was very much smooth.

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    firstly you have the wrong ATF in there. Honda DW1 and Z1 are highly friction modified ATF, they are specfically blended to provide the shift quality that is required and the ECU is also programmed with such friction charecteristics.

    in very simple words, such ATF provides higher slip when the shift is happening but strong hold once the shift is complete. Hence the smoother shift. ZIC ATF does not have such and is actually a dexron III clone - which lacks this charecteristic you want.

    The ATF level is only checked on hot engine after a 30 minute run. If its overfilled immediately remove the
    over quantity. It is highly damaging as it can cause foaming (jhaag) which results in pitting and other damaged parts as jhaag does not have any hydraulic pressure.
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    Quote Originally Posted by sohailw View Post
    Hi Guys,

    I just bought a 2005 EXI civic Prosmetic. Being a new owner i replaced it all fluids but after changing the transmission oil which is ZIC ATF iii the car starts jerking while shifting. The quantity pour was 3.5 liters and when checked via dip stick it shows normal but on engine start position when we checked again it shows the oil level UP from the mark mentioned on dip stick.
    As mechanic told that jerks in shifting after replacing transmission oil is normal which will be fixed after sometime and the oil level is also fine since we need to check it after shutting down the engine. is it?
    Please be noted that before replacing the transmission oil the shifting was very much smooth.
    @sohailw

    Why you used zic atf???? This is not made for honda. I really dislike the ZIC. I only believe on OEM Fluids that buy from 3s dealership.

    Also for Honda automatic vehicle either it is 96-00 or 01-05, the transmission ATF quantity is 2.7l. See your service manual. Why your mechanic poured 3.5l that's why you are facing problem.

    I advice you to Replace the ATF to HONDA AT-Z1 which is personally used in my civc 99-00. No problem at all in my transmission and still my transmission is stock not open yet for overhaul or change. Just replace the ATF which is ATF - Z1 at 30,000km.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    firstly you have the wrong ATF in there. Honda DW1 and Z1 are highly friction modified ATF, they are specfically blended to provide the shift quality that is required and the ECU is also programmed with such friction charecteristics.

    in very simple words, such ATF provides higher slip when the shift is happening but strong hold once the shift is complete. Hence the smoother shift. ZIC ATF does not have such and is actually a dexron III clone - which lacks this charecteristic you want.

    The ATF level is only checked on hot engine after a 30 minute run. If its overfilled immediately remove the
    over quantity. It is highly damaging as it can cause foaming (jhaag) which results in pitting and other damaged parts as jhaag does not have any hydraulic pressure.
    @Xulfiqar

    Yes you are right.

    I am using Honda ATF-Z1 in civic 99-00 vti orial automatic and still not having single problem. I have following questions:

    1. Can I use HONDA DW1 by replacing Z1?

    2. Is DW1 is better then Z1 in shifting and performance?

    I hear that Z1 can be added in DW1. Is it right?

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    Changed the ATF to Honda DW1 today as per recommendation by above respected members. Thank you both.
    The shift is smooth now but it takes long RPM now to shift and also the 3rd shifts moves very quick to 4th and after applying breaks when i push the pedal its slow in response.Any recommendations?

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    Did you change all 6 litres of ATF or just changed the 2.6 that comes out from the little drain plug?
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    Did you change all 6 litres of ATF or just changed the 2.6 that comes out from the little drain plug?
    I wonder what is the point of the drain plug if the oil can not be fully drained without opening the whole thing up
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    Quote Originally Posted by margallar View Post
    I wonder what is the point of the drain plug if the oil can not be fully drained without opening the whole thing up

    thank your stars that you have a drain plug - american automatics have a sump but no drain plug in it, e.g. the FWD transmission of the chevy impala I have has a sump that is about 1 inch deep - the ATF stick reading is about 3 inches - so the level actually sits above the sump line.

    try changing that out without getting bathed in ATF, (I do the cooler line method first and dont spill a drop of it).

    anyway - proper cars (like MB) provide you a torque converter drain plug too - so when you drain the ATF from both places you have got about 90% of the ATF out.

    In lower cost builds like all the other lineup - you are left helpless - you can do a cooler line ATF flush which will purge out all the ATF from the torque converter.
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