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Thread: How to purge the colling system of a 95 Civic

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    Default How to purge the colling system of a 95 Civic

    Hey all,

    I want bleed air from my cooling system, there is a purge valve at the end of the upper hose (circled in yellow) but I don't know how to use it. I have done the funnel procedure and have gotten most of the air out, took a lot of time but it sort of did the trick. I further would like to know how to bleed air through this valve. P.S. I have taken this picture from the internet.

    How to purge the colling system of a 95 Civic -1400008

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    open it like a bolt and coolant will start to shoot out, it will also shoot out some air - when you see a steady stream of liquid you are good to go and tighten it back.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    open it like a bold and coolant will start to shoot out, it will also shoot out some air - when you see a steady stream of liquid you are good to go and tighten it back.
    And do it with the car warmed up and has gone through a couple of thermostate cycles or do it while it's still cold?

    My other question; what damages am I looking at if I go from a system filled with water, to cleaning it with acid and replacing with a good coolant? I did it 6 months back but it ended up seizing my water pump, which in turn tore apart my timing belt. Been using water ever since due to the fear of loosing the water jackets.

    My understanding is; there is not a lot of rust, but what ever amount there is, needs to be corrected.

    Will I loose my motor if I switch to coolant?

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    Quote Originally Posted by supraman2jz View Post
    And do it with the car warmed up and has gone through a couple of thermostate cycles or do it while it's still cold?

    My other question; what damages am I looking at if I go from a system filled with water, to cleaning it with acid and replacing with a good coolant? I did it 6 months back but it ended up seizing my water pump, which in turn tore apart my timing belt. Been using water ever since due to the fear of loosing the water jackets.

    My understanding is; there is not a lot of rust, but what ever amount there is, needs to be corrected.

    Will I loose my motor if I switch to coolant?
    In this engine - do it cold with car pointing upwards. It takes a little while to burp. It would take 2 minutes to burp if it had it behind the thermostat - ispeshal honda ainjenyur ka dimaagh.

    anyway - if your water pump siezed it must be howling before it did. Its always recommended to change the water pump on this engine everytime the timing belt is changed out. Do a mild derust as this engine is cast aluminium - meaning it does not actually rust.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by supraman2jz View Post
    And do it with the car warmed up and has gone through a couple of thermostate cycles or do it while it's still cold?

    My other question; what damages am I looking at if I go from a system filled with water, to cleaning it with acid and replacing with a good coolant? I did it 6 months back but it ended up seizing my water pump, which in turn tore apart my timing belt. Been using water ever since due to the fear of loosing the water jackets.

    My understanding is; there is not a lot of rust, but what ever amount there is, needs to be corrected.

    Will I loose my motor if I switch to coolant?
    I dont think so that you will lose your motor. After changing the water pump, the max damage that can happen is leakage. Perform citric acid flush, fix the leakages and pour in coolant and you are good to go.
    None of the brave deserve fair....

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    In this engine - do it cold with car pointing upwards. It takes a little while to burp. It would take 2 minutes to burp if it had it behind the thermostat - ispeshal honda ainjenyur ka dimaagh.

    anyway - if your water pump siezed it must be howling before it did. Its always recommended to change the water pump on this engine everytime the timing belt is changed out. Do a mild derust as this engine is cast aluminium - meaning it does not actually rust.
    Got it, all the answers I was looking for.

    Ispeshal handa ainjenyur ka dimaagh has worked right on alot of other things though, these cars, in particular the EG and EK Civics drive and feel better than the newer models, or maybe it's just the fanboy-ism.

    Yes, the water pump was howling before it went kaput, grew louder and louder over the period of a month. None of the mechanics could tell what it was, they only assumed it may be this it may be that. I figured what it was when it started leaking coolant, but it was too late. It seized up on the way to the mechanic to get the water pump replaced.

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    Quote Originally Posted by saadkhangul View Post
    I dont think so that you will lose your motor. After changing the water pump, the max damage that can happen is leakage. Perform citric acid flush, fix the leakages and pour in coolant and you are good to go.
    It's running fine now with water in the cooling system instead of coolant. I just don't want to replace the engine because of leakages, head gasket issues, etc after putting in the coolant. Thus, the notion of loosing the motor.

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    Quote Originally Posted by supraman2jz View Post
    Got it, all the answers I was looking for.

    Ispeshal handa ainjenyur ka dimaagh has worked right on alot of other things though, these cars, in particular the EG and EK Civics drive and feel better than the newer models, or maybe it's just the fanboy-ism.

    Yes, the water pump was howling before it went kaput, grew louder and louder over the period of a month. None of the mechanics could tell what it was, they only assumed it may be this it may be that. I figured what it was when it started leaking coolant, but it was too late. It seized up on the way to the mechanic to get the water pump replaced.

    These older Hondas used a far superior (and more expensive to make) suspension design that gave these cars the feel that made Honda sedans famous (started with the 3G accord)

    the problem with this design is - its a lot of parts, its a lot of bushings, takes up a lot of space and requires more time to fit in production. - The new iphone generation people dont care about drive quality - all they want is to get to point B while listening to their phones connected to the car.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    These older Hondas used a far superior (and more expensive to make) suspension design that gave these cars the feel that made Honda sedans famous (started with the 3G accord)

    the problem with this design is - its a lot of parts, its a lot of bushings, takes up a lot of space and requires more time to fit in production. - The new iphone generation people dont care about drive quality - all they want is to get to point B while listening to their phones connected to the car.
    Exactly! that is what the newer ones run like, an appliance. They made the cars so numb, they feel like an appliance. That IMO is not what a CAR should feel or run like! A car should be noisy (but in a good way ofcourse), lots of torque, good handling, able lay miles of rubber, it should run through the gears like no one's business!

    Nice cabin, no sound, no connection to the pavement, nav, bluetooth, toaster, fridge, TV, and God knows whatnot! Everything that you want in your living room is in these cars now.

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    Quote Originally Posted by supraman2jz View Post
    It's running fine now with water in the cooling system instead of coolant. I just don't want to replace the engine because of leakages, head gasket issues, etc after putting in the coolant. Thus, the notion of loosing the motor.
    If you keep running water, your cooling system parts will keep failing due to rust i.e thermostat, pump, radiator. Failure of either of these things will cook your motor. Its better to flush your system and get coolant. But if you are in mood for selling it in foreseeable future, then i,ll suggest you keep running it on water.
    None of the brave deserve fair....

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    Quote Originally Posted by saadkhangul View Post
    If you keep running water, your cooling system parts will keep failing due to rust i.e thermostat, pump, radiator. Failure of either of these things will cook your motor. Its better to flush your system and get coolant. But if you are in mood for selling it in foreseeable future, then i,ll suggest you keep running it on water.
    You got me wrong, I know the cons of running water instead of coolant. I want to switch back to coolant, it breaks my heart everytime I start the car knowing it's being cooled by water and not by the recommended coolant. I will switch to coolant very soon in sha Allah.

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    salam,this thread is relating to civic 95,so want to share some of my problems,hoping will get soln of my problems

    1.here at distributor there is a nozle type to which a rubber pipe is connected coming from carb,cng mechanic removed it and yes engine noise decreased bt if again connected engine gets noisy,wats da function of dis pipe encircled in redHow to purge the colling system of a 95 Civic -1400489


    2.my car iz idling high when gets hot after running in city,idles at 1500rpm,adjusted cng idle,a knob at back of filter but all in vain but at cold idle iz normal but when car gets hot after running in city starts idling between 1500-1800 rpm

    3.car radiator fan makes char char sound whn operates,anythng wid motor

    4.and these cars come with auto chowk or manual,cuz morning i hve to press accelerator till 1k rpm to get it stuck at 1k rpm,otherwise it remains at 300 rpm whn cold for first few mins


    and mashAllah these cars are so comfy and pulls so fast and hard whn i sometimes ride it on petrol dat i hve shaking hands and legsit may be i hvent driven a fast car or race too often but it sure iz fast,and i dnt knw why people are switchng to vtecs while these engines on other hand are fast,torquey and easily maintainable and tunable(cuz in my opinion carbs are very simple to operate as compared to EFIs which hve many lanjas some may argue ,but its jst my opinion)

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    Quote Originally Posted by Muhammadqasimkhan View Post
    salam,this thread is relating to civic 95,so want to share some of my problems,hoping will get soln of my problems

    1.here at distributor there is a nozle type to which a rubber pipe is connected coming from carb,cng mechanic removed it and yes engine noise decreased bt if again connected engine gets noisy,wats da function of dis pipe encircled in redHow to purge the colling system of a 95 Civic -1400489


    2.my car iz idling high when gets hot after running in city,idles at 1500rpm,adjusted cng idle,a knob at back of filter but all in vain but at cold idle iz normal but when car gets hot after running in city starts idling between 1500-1800 rpm

    3.car radiator fan makes char char sound whn operates,anythng wid motor

    4.and these cars come with auto chowk or manual,cuz morning i hve to press accelerator till 1k rpm to get it stuck at 1k rpm,otherwise it remains at 300 rpm whn cold for first few mins


    and mashAllah these cars are so comfy and pulls so fast and hard whn i sometimes ride it on petrol dat i hve shaking hands and legsit may be i hvent driven a fast car or race too often but it sure iz fast,and i dnt knw why people are switchng to vtecs while these engines on other hand are fast,torquey and easily maintainable and tunable(cuz in my opinion carbs are very simple to operate as compared to EFIs which hve many lanjas some may argue ,but its jst my opinion)
    1. please attach a picture with higher resolution so it can clearly be seen. It might be something related to pcv valve.
    2. Looks like your carb needs a service or there is a butterfly problem. Get it serviced and checked if butterfly needs to be fixed.
    3. See if there is some loose wire or something in the fan's way. Rotate the fan with your hand and see if it hard to move or makes some grinding sound. Get it repaired from some electrician or better replace it.
    4. Again it indicates problem with your carb. Get it checked. Check your throttle wire also. It might have become dry and stuck sometimes.

    Yes these hondas are fast, reliable and easy and cheap to maintain. But the vtec and efi technology is better. It provides better fuel economy and performance at the same time. If you dont go to a roadside mechanic, EFI's are pretty easy to tune and are less troublesome as compared to carbs.
    None of the brave deserve fair....

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    that pipe you mention is for vacuum advance for the distributor, if you dont connect it the engine will be pretty lazy as it requires ignition advance from it when accelerating between 1000-2000 rpm, the rest is covered by the centrifugal advance.

    Your engine's carburettor has a fast idle system that is called automatic choke, its probably disabled by the CNG mechanic (by your writing he seems like a moron if he disconnected the vacuum pipe from the vacuum advance)
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    Quote Originally Posted by Muhammadqasimkhan View Post
    salam,this thread is relating to civic 95,so want to share some of my problems,hoping will get soln of my problems

    1.here at distributor there is a nozle type to which a rubber pipe is connected coming from carb,cng mechanic removed it and yes engine noise decreased bt if again connected engine gets noisy,wats da function of dis pipe encircled in redHow to purge the colling system of a 95 Civic -1400489


    2.my car iz idling high when gets hot after running in city,idles at 1500rpm,adjusted cng idle,a knob at back of filter but all in vain but at cold idle iz normal but when car gets hot after running in city starts idling between 1500-1800 rpm

    3.car radiator fan makes char char sound whn operates,anythng wid motor

    4.and these cars come with auto chowk or manual,cuz morning i hve to press accelerator till 1k rpm to get it stuck at 1k rpm,otherwise it remains at 300 rpm whn cold for first few mins


    and mashAllah these cars are so comfy and pulls so fast and hard whn i sometimes ride it on petrol dat i hve shaking hands and legsit may be i hvent driven a fast car or race too often but it sure iz fast,and i dnt knw why people are switchng to vtecs while these engines on other hand are fast,torquey and easily maintainable and tunable(cuz in my opinion carbs are very simple to operate as compared to EFIs which hve many lanjas some may argue ,but its jst my opinion)
    I can tell you somethings in lieu of my experiences with the car:
    1-Get that pipe attached. No questions about it. You may have to get your timing adjusted after that, get it done from a timing gun if you feel the car knocking/sluggish on petrol and sluggish on cng.
    2-Do one thing, run your car on petrol, when the rpm goes high on idle, bring it back to 900-1000 via the knob at the back of your carburetor assembly. If you don't already know, it's a big knob and pretty hard to miss. Once it idles fine on petrol, convert it to cng and adjust the idle from the kit. Also adjust the quantity of cng from the T bolt just for good measure.
    3-Never heard of a fan making that sound, try to elaborate,
    4-Get your auto choke working again from a carburetor specialist. It works like a charm if in working order. It can be one of the reasons why you're experiencing high idle when hot.

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    thanks to all of u for ur valuable tips,i surely will apply above mentioned tips
    but whn thng the pipe which goes from headers cover to intake pipe iz missing in my car,since its a part of fast idle system,thn i thnk my fast idle in start up will not work and i hve to hold accelerator for sme tym,
    secondly fast idle wud be due to faulty choke as supermanjz mentioned i surely will work out it
    and radiotor iz making sound,it may be its bushes holding it or may be supply as saad khan mentioned,will check it too
    wats da solution of stuck throttle wire

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    I don't think your throttle wire is stuck, this car has a complex carburetor with lots of vaccum lines for everything. 90% of these Civics running now have most of these idle vaccum lines disconnected. Get these vaccum lines checked by a carburetor specialist.

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    Quote Originally Posted by supraman2jz View Post
    I don't think your throttle wire is stuck, this car has a complex carburetor with lots of vaccum lines for everything. 90% of these Civics running now have most of these idle vaccum lines disconnected. Get these vaccum lines checked by a carburetor specialist.
    complex?

    it has a pretty simple 2 barrel keihin carburettor that is usual in Honda. the vacuum pipes sort of speak for themselves.
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    For our local mechanics, it is, trust me! One anjinyar advised me to change the induction to FI because this "carburetor is complex with lots of vaccum pumps and pipes and no one anymore knows how to work on this and that I will not find any replacement part for it"

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    Quote Originally Posted by supraman2jz View Post
    For our local mechanics, it is, trust me! One anjinyar advised me to change the induction to FI because this "carburetor is complex with lots of vaccum pumps and pipes and no one anymore knows how to work on this and that I will not find any replacement part for it"
    tell the guy to eat ginger and chilli peppers.

    The carburettor in the Pakistani civic is very simple, Just like the old 1.2 litre models, has about 6 or 8 vacuum tubes, If a mechanic cannot repair that then I have no words to say except - to tell him to eat ginger and chilli peppers.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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