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Thread: Grinding noise from engine (audio inside)

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    Default Grinding noise from engine (audio inside)

    the (bad bearing like)noise comes when the engine is revved. It only comes at around 1.5-1.7k RPM. No matter if I am pushing or releasing the accelerator or if the pedal is fixed. It always comes when the rpm needle crosses that point.

    The car is civic 1998 stock engine 200k+ km done. Automatic. Not reducing any oil and not giving any smoke.

    plz help.

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    the RPM ranges are in thousands!

    check the engine, transmission, power steering oils also check for the starter motor sometimes it also makes such noise when it is faulty!

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    bump .

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    Quote Originally Posted by Motorheat View Post
    the noise comes when the engine is revved. It only comes in a specific RPM. A range of around 100-200 below 2k.
    plz help.

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    Brother definitely the noise is of metal parts striking each other which are not supposed to do so.

    Start by checking the bearings like main crankshaft bearing, rod bearings etc.
    All life is an experiment. The more experiments you make the better.

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    If ac was turned on, get the compressor checked. My swift makes that noise. Otherwise, let us know how much the car is driven- might need a tappet setting done.

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    @faiz.aslam.121 @bradpit car is 200k old. But no starting issues, oil reduction or any other issue. Tappets are also set.

    Just to make sure that which noise I am referring to... it is the whine like noise most prominent at 12 20 32 38 50 seconds.

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    @Xulfiqar please provide your opinion too.

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    Which car? sounds like a loose metal part.
    But the question is, will it do a burnout?

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    Arrow

    Clutch bearing. You could try using left foot to check the same noise on multiple positions of clutch pedal whereas your right foot controls the accelerator. Of course this is assuming the car is manual.

    Sidenote on main-bigun:
    What the local mechanics call main are the crankshaft main bearings. These are ball bearings.
    What the local mechanics call bigun are the connecting rods big end bearings. These are not ball bearings but bushes with an oil path.

    Main bearing sound comes when revving the engine.
    Big end bearings rattle when you release the accelerator.

    The above obviously is true only for those engines in which the problems have started. If the engine is way past gone then the main, big end and all the other XYZ stuff will be rattling like an empty can full of stones.

    Generally these bearings are very durable and not a cause of overhaul. Usually they sustain up to 3-4 overhauls in which common replacements are valve seals, valve guides, rings and/or pistons if there is a re-bore. These overhauls are done to reduce excess oil consumption and regain lost power, not to replace worn-out bearings.

    Worn out main & con-rod bearings are usually caused by poor quality oil or overfilling of oil. This means the result is seen soon after an oil change and not over tens of thousands of kilometers.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ahsanzs View Post
    Clutch bearing. You could try using left foot to check the same noise on multiple positions of clutch pedal whereas your right foot controls the accelerator. Of course this is assuming the car is manual.

    Sidenote on main-bigun:
    What the local mechanics call main are the crankshaft main bearings. These are ball bearings.
    What the local mechanics call bigun are the connecting rods big end bearings. These are not ball bearings but bushes with an oil path.

    Main bearing sound comes when revving the engine.
    Big end bearings rattle when you release the accelerator.

    The above obviously is true only for those engines in which the problems have started. If the engine is way past gone then the main, big end and all the other XYZ stuff will be rattling like an empty can full of stones.

    Generally these bearings are very durable and not a cause of overhaul. Usually they sustain up to 3-4 overhauls in which common replacements are valve seals, valve guides, rings and/or pistons if there is a re-bore. These overhauls are done to reduce excess oil consumption and regain lost power, not to replace worn-out bearings.

    Worn out main & con-rod bearings are usually caused by poor quality oil or overfilling of oil. This means the result is seen soon after an oil change and not over tens of thousands of kilometers.
    The car is civic 1998 stock engine 200k+ km done. Automatic. Not reducing any oil or giving smoke.
    The noise comes at a specific rpm i.e around 1500. No matter if I am pushing or releasing the accelerator. It always comes when the rpm needle is at that point.

    So I guess I should not be worried as it does not need any attention?

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    Quote Originally Posted by bradpit View Post
    Brother definitely the noise is of metal parts striking each other which are not supposed to do so.

    Start by checking the bearings like main crankshaft bearing, rod bearings etc.
    How can I check them? I would need to open the engine right?

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    Did u checked u wheel bearings? I have same problem with my mazda 626 , 2002. From 100 to 110kmph it used to make a ghooon ghooon sound. Now it make same sound at earlier speed also aswell as 120.i till date surprized where to find the cilprit.


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    Quote Originally Posted by ahsanzs View Post
    Clutch bearing. You could try using left foot to check the same noise on multiple positions of clutch pedal whereas your right foot controls the accelerator. Of course this is assuming the car is manual.

    Sidenote on main-bigun:
    What the local mechanics call main are the crankshaft main bearings. These are ball bearings.
    What the local mechanics call bigun are the connecting rods big end bearings. These are not ball bearings but bushes with an oil path.

    Main bearing sound comes when revving the engine.
    Big end bearings rattle when you release the accelerator.

    The above obviously is true only for those engines in which the problems have started. If the engine is way past gone then the main, big end and all the other XYZ stuff will be rattling like an empty can full of stones.

    Generally these bearings are very durable and not a cause of overhaul. Usually they sustain up to 3-4 overhauls in which common replacements are valve seals, valve guides, rings and/or pistons if there is a re-bore. These overhauls are done to reduce excess oil consumption and regain lost power, not to replace worn-out bearings.

    Worn out main & con-rod bearings are usually caused by poor quality oil or overfilling of oil. This means the result is seen soon after an oil change and not over tens of thousands of kilometers.
    excellent analysis

    Genuine bearings were used to work for ages but nowadays Chinese bearings needs replacement after every year or 2.
    All life is an experiment. The more experiments you make the better.

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    i also have honda city 1.5 exi (civic engine as special limited edition in 1999) which suffered this problem
    i m posting a video if your car noise is same as in this video
    1998 honda civic timing belt noise 1 - YouTube

    then definately it is tight timming belt.... u wont belve but it may be the sound of tight timming belt ... just little loosen your timming belt it was once became headache for me after spending alot of time and mechanic i fixed my noise by loosening timming belt ...before anything to fix just go to mechanic to test whether timming belt is tight ...in my case almost all mechanic told its not timming belt but i was recommended by ericthecarguy(foreign motor mechanic ) that loosen your timming belt so i asked the mechanic to loose the timming belt he did so and sound went away ....
    gave rs 250 to mechanic 2 month before (certainly he was a cheap mechanic)

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    dont distrb gear , clutch ,engine assembly .... check timming belt first ...

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    Quote Originally Posted by searchingeyez View Post
    i also have honda city 1.5 exi (civic engine as special limited edition in 1999) which suffered this problem
    i m posting a video if your car noise is same as in this video
    1998 honda civic timing belt noise 1 - YouTube

    then definately it is tight timming belt.... u wont belve but it may be the sound of tight timming belt ... just little loosen your timming belt it was once became headache for me after spending alot of time and mechanic i fixed my noise by loosening timming belt ...before anything to fix just go to mechanic to test whether timming belt is tight ...in my case almost all mechanic told its not timming belt but i was recommended by ericthecarguy(foreign motor mechanic ) that loosen your timming belt so i asked the mechanic to loose the timming belt he did so and sound went away ....
    gave rs 250 to mechanic 2 month before (certainly he was a cheap mechanic)
    it tightened itself? why? how?

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    i dont knw the exact reason of loosening but same happnd to me ... i posted a video in my above comment match the sound ...if same then consult to god mechanic to loosen the timming belt

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    Quote Originally Posted by searchingeyez View Post
    i also have honda city 1.5 exi (civic engine as special limited edition in 1999) which suffered this problem
    i m posting a video if your car noise is same as in this video
    1998 honda civic timing belt noise 1 - YouTube

    then definately it is tight timming belt.... u wont belve but it may be the sound of tight timming belt ... just little loosen your timming belt it was once became headache for me after spending alot of time and mechanic i fixed my noise by loosening timming belt ...before anything to fix just go to mechanic to test whether timming belt is tight ...in my case almost all mechanic told its not timming belt but i was recommended by ericthecarguy(foreign motor mechanic ) that loosen your timming belt so i asked the mechanic to loose the timming belt he did so and sound went away ....
    gave rs 250 to mechanic 2 month before (certainly he was a cheap mechanic)
    Thank you! That is exactly the sound. Although I changed the belt and the bearing 20k km ago from honda.
    1998 honda civic timing belt noise 1 - ytPAK.com

    Was it loose or tight belt?
    What mechanic did you go to? Also was it a long job or a short one, because if you don't have to remove the power steering pump and other stuff I can do it myself.

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    its tight belt sound

    i dont think u can do it .... ap bonnet khol k dekho right side pe engine k yellow color ka cover hoga wahan timming belt hia .... sab se pehle belt loose ker k crank pulley se belt loose kerne hote hain phr yellow cover (upper cover and lower cover hote hain) pura khulta hai upar wala b aur neeche wala b phr us cover main tensn bearing or idler pulley hoti hai jo timming belt ko adjust kerne k lie hoti hai ...uska bolta loose ker k uss bearing/pulley ko adjust kerna hota hai aur tension kitni kam kerni hai yeh mechanic ko ziada acha idea hota hia agr boht hi gud work chahie aur afford ker sakte ho to honda k pass chale jao ap ....unke pass belt tension tool hoga jispe tensn force digits main arahi hoti hai wo according to factory specification belt tension(for example 95 N...its just for rough idea exact tensn abi ni pata mujhe ) adjust ker denge ....local mechanic hath laga k belt check kardega tight hai ya loose ......ap ko buss loose kerwana hai thora timming belt .....aur dekh lena timming belt change to nahi hone wali precaution k tor per

    thanks

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    sab se behtr hai factory specification k mutabiq belt adjust ho .... magr pakistan hai tool kam hi kisi k pass hote hain ... btw mjse mechanic ne 500 manga bad main kara k 250 die mechanic ko aur a hour thirty mins lage the mje taqreeban.....

    agr standard ka kaam chahte ho to recommend kerunga HONDA k pas jao aur puch lena k ap k pass tension tool hai ? agr hai to wahan se kra lo ...mere case main honda walo ne bola water body khrab hai wo dalni paregi ... main garri wapis le aya cz water circulation was v good... u just ask them to adjust timming belt tensn as factory specs ...thats all

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