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Thread: Knocking in civic vti oriel 2000 automatic.

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    Question Knocking in civic vti oriel 2000 automatic.

    Hello to All PW's.

    I am hoping all of you enjoying their lives in much better way.

    From many days, I am observing that my civic 2000 vti oriel automatic is making knocking too much.

    Recently did complete tuning including throttle body cleaning, tappet adjustment, new Denso plug added.

    I also changing Fuel station many times but no luck and yesterday I added High Octane, so after adding High Octane, knocking is reduced but not completely.

    Please experts @Xulfiqar @racerali @capsat help me to solve the knocking completely.

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    As far as i remember i told u in one of ur threads to check ur main relay under steering ..... I had this problem on same car and found out loose relay connections coz of melting of relay over time .... Apart from other suggestions by experts , do check that also

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    Quote Originally Posted by rohaansaeed View Post
    Is your car's cooling system working properly? Have you been using coolant or tap water?

    Could be caused by higher combustion temperature, otherwise you need to get the timing checked once again even if you've gotten it checked already.
    Get your Timing belt checked.
    What's the current position of your distributor?
    @rohaansaeed

    Yes cooling system us working fine. No problem at all. I am using Honda Genuine Type 2 coolant added by 3s dealership.

    Timing belt is ok. The current position of distributor is original position I think so

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    Quote Originally Posted by Naweed View Post
    assuming there is no low lubrication issue .... get tappets adjusted ... the lifters require period adjustment somewhere around every 30k kms

    P.S ; it is not knocking but sometimes the tappet sound is also similar to knocking ... since all other reasons of knocking have been ruled out so i suggested a tappet adjustment
    Yes there is no low lubrication issue. I recently did tappet adjustment from 3s dealership-hardly 1000km ago . But I am thinking why this problem is occurring. No reason is obvious for my problem as this thread is passing on.

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    Loose torque convertor bolts and cracked flex plate also produces knocking sound,get it checked.
    Never loose hope in life,every step gives u something.

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    Quote Originally Posted by argtr65 View Post
    Loose torque convertor bolts and cracked flex plate also produces knocking sound,get it checked.
    I don't think so. If they are loose then they constantly provide sound not on low rpm when car is in R or d4.

    The problem is that when car is in R and I reversing at low rpm, knocking sound come and same as in d4.

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    Quote Originally Posted by galant1 View Post
    I don't think so. If they are loose then they constantly provide sound not on low rpm when car is in R or d4.

    The problem is that when car is in R and I reversing at low rpm, knocking sound come and same as in d4.
    Well get somebody stand near the hood and see what sound is that..... if engine produces knocking in reverse i am dam sure it can do it in forward, if it only does in reverse then you know it is either related to transmission or some mounting.

    By the way you can also inspect the change in the Timing when knocking occurs. If you have knock sensor ECU will automatically adjust the timing to prevent knocking and pinging.

    Thanks
    93 Accord CB7 (Sold) / 2005 CL7

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    Quote Originally Posted by afnan.bashir View Post
    Well get somebody stand near the hood and see what sound is that..... if engine produces knocking in reverse i am dam sure it can do it in forward, if it only does in reverse then you know it is either related to transmission or some mounting.

    By the way you can also inspect the change in the Timing when knocking occurs. If you have knock sensor ECU will automatically adjust the timing to prevent knocking and pinging.

    Thanks
    @afnan.bashir

    Knocking is present in both reverse (R) and forward (d4) when I park the car in my garage at too low speed. When I reversing the car at road at too low speed, knocking is producing. So knocking is present in both reverse and forward when car is moving at very low speed and low rpm.

    When Car is shifted to "P", All sounds that produced by knocking would stop and no knocking comes in P.

    Yes Knock sensor is present but there is no CEL comes on due to knocking.

    All mounts are checked multiple time, they are 100% fine.

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    Latest update:

    Knocking is present in both reverse (R) and forward (d4) when I park the car in my garage at too low speed. When I reversing the car at road at too low speed, knocking is producing. So knocking is present in both reverse and forward when car is moving at very low speed and low rpm.

    When Car is shifted to "P", All sounds that produced by knocking would stop and no knocking comes in P.

    Yes Knock sensor is present but there is no CEL comes on due to knocking.

    All mounts are checked multiple time, they are 100% fine.

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    Quote Originally Posted by galant1 View Post
    I don't think so. If they are loose then they constantly provide sound not on low rpm when car is in R or d4.

    The problem is that when car is in R and I reversing at low rpm, knocking sound come and same as in d4.
    Brother, for your information, in this situation the sound is quite obvious at initial start up,rest upon you.
    Another thing,also check the timing belt tension,loose belt could be a source of this problem.
    Never loose hope in life,every step gives u something.

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    @Xulfiqar

    Waiting for your valuable comments @Xulfiqar.

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    @Xulfiqar @capsat

    Latest update:

    Knocking is present in both reverse (R) and forward (d4) when I park the car in my garage at too low speed or when I turn the car from u-turn at low speed. When I reversing the car at road at too low speed, knocking is producing. So knocking is present in both reverse and forward when car is moving at very low speed and low rpm.

    When Car is shifted to "P", All sounds that produced by knocking would stop and no knocking comes in P.

    Yes Knock sensor is present but there is no CEL comes on due to knocking.

    All mounts are checked multiple time, they are 100% fine.

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    sounds vague

    translating the vagueness - Im reading that the knocking occurs when you accelerate from a stop. That is a perfect indication of 2 items, one being timing out of specification or hot spots in the combustion chamber.

    the timing out of specification can also be caused by a bad distributor rotor - if its loose fitting it can vibrate on the shaft and cause this bad ignition timing under load, it can also be due to wrong spark plug heat range or worn out spark plugs too. If I remember correct your engine was replaced recently - anything related to that incident?
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    @Xulfiqar

    Yes engine assembly is swap only whereas all other things are fully stock. New engine assembly is D16Y5 Vtec.

    Knocking comes when I move the car at U-turn at lowest speed and when Car is in reverse at very low speed.

    The one thing I check the distributor is fully tight but don't know the timing which was set by 3s dealership.

    Can you tell me how to adjust the distributor according to specification - so that timing out problem should be checked and hence removed????

    As per spark plugs are concerned, spark plugs are recently changed to brand new Denso spark plugs-don't know the part number. Whereas the spark plugs came with engine assembly were NGK-ZFR5F-11 but they are in very bad condition. So my father replaced the old one to new denso one.

    Can you explain what is meant by hot spots in the combustion chamber?

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    @Xulfiqar

    Yes engine assembly is swap only whereas all other things are fully stock. New engine assembly is D16Y5 Vtec.

    Knocking comes when I move the car at U-turn at lowest speed and when Car is in reverse at very low speed.

    The one thing I check the distributor is fully tight but don't know the timing which was set by 3s dealership.

    Can you tell me how to adjust the distributor according to specification - so that timing out problem should be checked and hence removed????

    As per spark plugs are concerned, spark plugs are recently changed to brand new Denso spark plugs-don't know the part number. Whereas the spark plugs came with engine assembly were NGK-ZFR5F-11 but they are in very bad condition. So my father replaced the old one to new denso one.

    Can you explain what is meant by hot spots in the combustion chamber?

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    afnan i have an issue of knock sensor my mechanic brooked it and i bought the sensor (removed from jdm motor) but that's different from the original one and i feeling that difference
    can you please tell where can i get it ? nee your help !

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    a knock like sound is also produced by worn crank bearings... Usually its around 2000 rpm. But that happens more on just revving not while driving.

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