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Thread: civic 05, pulsating brakes? (and clutch shrudder)

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    Default civic 05, pulsating brakes? (and clutch shrudder)

    Hi, from past couple of weeks there is a pulsating feeling when i press brake. It is most observable when car is slow and coming to a stop. To explain it more, it is like when i keep constant pressure on brake pedal, the car's deceleration seems to pulsate as wheel is turning.

    6 months ago i got rear brake pads replaced but i think its coming from front because there is no pulsating feeling when i use handbrake.

    I checked the front brake pads and the pads still have considerable material left. The discs seem fine from my eyes... Also whenever i press brake and window is down i can hear a very low sssss sound. it is not squeaking neither it is loud.

    Any ideas what to do?


    A side question since i dont want to make another thread. When the car is cold and i am taking off from 0(first gear), the car shudders at the biting point of clutch. The shudder is much more when i am trying to move up an incline. There is no clutch slip at high gears, once fully engaged, it works fine.
    The honda 3s guy told me that it is because clutch plate is bent....
    Is it really that bad? any idea how much will be the cost to fix it?

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    i dont think u should be changing seals urself, steering for some reason became harder when he changed the seals, dont know what he kept doing n then finally it was back to normal

    also ask any other mech, they'll say u cant change the seals, in other others, they cant as according to them its not possible n pump wont work lol

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    Quote Originally Posted by chaudhary9 View Post
    i dont think u should be changing seals urself, steering for some reason became harder when he changed the seals, dont know what he kept doing n then finally it was back to normal

    also ask any other mech, they'll say u cant change the seals, in other others, they cant as according to them its not possible n pump wont work lol
    yup id rather pay then ruin it myself

    @metalhead
    The exhaust still does not smell normal.... @chaudhary9 how does your car's exhaust smell on petrol? or are you still running on lpg?

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    Quote Originally Posted by HellsGuardian View Post
    That's right, i did a quick search yesterday on my idle problem and found that whenever any work is done on throttle body, the ecu needs a reset. I followed this method (link below) today and everything is working great now. The drive is really smooth and not jerky at all.
    If you have idle issues look here before posting!!! - Honda Civic Forum
    1. Heat up the engine until fan turns on (keep rpm between 2.5-3.5k), ran it 1 more min afterwards.
    2. Turn the car off completely.
    4. Remove fuse or battery (i removed battery negative) and wait 1-2minutes
    5. Make sure there is no load on engine (no lights, ac, fan anything at all)
    6. Start the car and let it idle for 10mins.
    7. Turn off the car and wait 2minutes.
    8. Start the car and drive normally. Step 8 confirmed that the unstable idle is fixed.

    Btw the honda mechanic did a reset using honda diagnostic but he did not followed the above steps. The readings ecu saved were not of actual idling which is why this problem came.
    Oh and i never knew the fuse box contains a fuse puller The link above had this picture which showed fuse puller


    So you replaced the seals by yourself? wow i thought this pump is really touchy about things. Do you suggest me to it myself? I have obviously no experience with power steering pump but i am good with tools.

    Also how much did it cost you?
    The same website helped me a lot in understanding my car. It feels very good when your idling problem solves.

    Regarding pump overhaul, I consulted the workshop manual. My mechanic told me to go for kabli one, but I said why not give it a try... and it went fine. Cost of the bearing and seals along with bearing installation was Rs. 2500/- (2100 for parts and 400 for bearing fitting only). Rest was done by me. I do not know your skill level. I would suggest you to thoroughly study the steering pump and its repair procedures first. If you feel confident enough, only then you should proceed to split it up.

    Also you should be worrying about your generator as in my opinion the generator does not like power steering fluid much. I replaced mine with kabli one as it started to overcharge (the regulator may have got fried).

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    Quote Originally Posted by HellsGuardian View Post
    yup id rather pay then ruin it myself

    @metalhead
    The exhaust still does not smell normal.... @chaudhary9 how does your car's exhaust smell on petrol? or are you still running on lpg?
    hahaha yea better pay than ruining

    i never smelled the exhaust

    shifted to petrol, cng pipe is out, will remove the cylinder too if i ever go to mechanic side

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    @chaudhary9

    Bro what about your car? How it is running till now? You don't tell me? Please pm me update.
    Engineer + Car's Passion = Enthusiastic Personality.

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    Quote Originally Posted by galant1 View Post
    @chaudhary9

    Bro what about your car? How it is running till now? You don't tell me? Please pm me update.
    sent u a pm

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    Quote Originally Posted by metalhead View Post
    The same website helped me a lot in understanding my car. It feels very good when your idling problem solves.

    Regarding pump overhaul, I consulted the workshop manual. My mechanic told me to go for kabli one, but I said why not give it a try... and it went fine. Cost of the bearing and seals along with bearing installation was Rs. 2500/- (2100 for parts and 400 for bearing fitting only). Rest was done by me. I do not know your skill level. I would suggest you to thoroughly study the steering pump and its repair procedures first. If you feel confident enough, only then you should proceed to split it up.

    Also you should be worrying about your generator as in my opinion the generator does not like power steering fluid much. I replaced mine with kabli one as it started to overcharge (the regulator may have got fried).
    Thanks for he detailed reply!

    are those genuine seals? because the honda 3s center is selling em for more than 5k. Yes yesterday i was running low on petrol + just had reset the ecu so i was easy on pedal. Today i pushed it and i can clearly see the difference in power. Earlier the engine would bog down for a second when you push the pedal but now even in second gear it makes you stick back to the seat lol And that vtec kick at 5500!
    i filled 11.78 litres at reserve light so lets hope it gives me good average as well.

    All i am still a bit worried is that why the exhaust smell is still not bearable... May be it is just me because according to that site, if there is something wrong with emissions the check light would turn on.

    I think my skills are fair but this time I will not take chances lol Once i see him do it in front of me, the next time I will be confident to do it myself. Apart from repairing the pump, there are other things such as bleeding it for any air bubbles, hoses etc which i have no prior experience

    For now, I will keep clearing the drip with cloth until i get it fixed (the drip is very little, just oil dampness below pump and on genny)

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    Quote Originally Posted by chaudhary9 View Post
    hahaha yea better pay than ruining

    i never smelled the exhaust

    shifted to petrol, cng pipe is out, will remove the cylinder too if i ever go to mechanic side
    haha mind smelling it now?

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    hahaha sure
    but i always forget whenever i get near to the car

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    My car did 200km in 17.68lit (1500 rupees) on 70% highway drive.

    Not bad but i was expecting more after tune up

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    got it done today. So far it looks fine.

    Cost: 3300. 800 was his labor charges, rest were price of parts. i forgot the cost of oil and seals separately.

    @chaudhary9
    SM is mineral based and SN in synthetic. He said for new cars (new city + 9th gen) synthetic is recommended but for other cars SM is perfectly fine especially when engine is running on it since day 1. So according to him going for SN is not needed for our cars neither it is recommended at this stage


    @metalhead
    Btw he said front bush are broken and rank&pinion also has ply so both need replacement. Brakes and clutch is still pending. Does rack-slider have anything to do with the fact that car hits hard on bumps? Also i researched a bit and it seems that bushings are only to minimze small vibrations and bumps but my car also hits badly on large bumps too

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    yea SN is for newer cars, but SM is also sythetic oil, today i got the SM oil from honda, change krne k b 200-300 letey hain lol, i said i'll get it done from outside

    oil price is 1000rs of honda's
    3300 is total? so that means seals for 1500rs that cheap

    so leakage stopped?

    y u let it hit bumps?
    maybe shock farigh ho gai hai?

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    Quote Originally Posted by chaudhary9 View Post
    yea SN is for newer cars, but SM is also sythetic oil, today i got the SM oil from honda, change krne k b 200-300 letey hain lol, i said i'll get it done from outside

    oil price is 1000rs of honda's
    3300 is total? so that means seals for 1500rs that cheap

    so leakage stopped?

    y u let it hit bumps?
    maybe shock farigh ho gai hai?
    Yes no leakage for now. Lol i dont let it hit bumps but what i mean by hitting hard on bumps is that ride is really uncomfortable and noisy on bumpy roads. Shock khulenge to confirm hoga
    Yes wo keh to raha tha k seals genuine han. He had couple of them in sealed honda packing...

    Earlier honda used to change oil for free if bought from there but now they started charging. My guess is that because these days a lot of cars are coming in for work so keeping a lift busy for free and for such small work is not affordable to them

    So what made you shift back to genuine oil?

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    @Xulfiqar @others

    There is another weird behaviour which i am unable to comprehend. Consider that the car is moving slowly in first gear at a low rpm. As soon as i floor the pedal (or give a good amount of gas) the engine starts screaming and rpm shoots high but the car's speed seems to be catching up later on. This behaviour looks like that clutch is slipping but when i put the car in fourth or 5th gear to test if it slip, the clutch doesn't slip at all.

    I have search all over the internet and everyone says that if clutch is slipping (or weak), it should slip more in high gears (because load is more due to ratios) but in my case there is no slip at all in high gears...

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    hmmmm
    so was it less noisy b4?
    i think maybe even mine is also same like that, but m used to it the way it is
    though i think shocks or bushes etc need to be changed which i got changed more than a year ago
    also there r some noises dont know of what coming from back, more prominent while driving on kashmir highway, feels like coming from exhaust but maybe some bush etc
    akaash said cylinder is loose but i got that checked as well

    btw corolla mein to ni bethey na kehin? jo ye ride uncomfortable lg rahi hai?

    "So what made you shift back to genuine oil? "
    engine ka khiyal hahaha

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    "As soon as i floor the pedal (or give a good amount of gas) the engine starts screaming and rpm shoots high but the car's speed seems to be catching up later on. "
    u tend to notice alot of stuff
    i keep my eyes on road only
    i think same happens in auto as well, shouldnt happen in manual, though when m flooring i keep my eyes on road haha
    auto mein to kick down hoti hai to rpm shoots n then car accelerates

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    @HellsGuardian
    Whats your cars behavior on uneven/off-road in slow speeds? Does it sway softly or hard? Also is the behavior on curvy speed breaker jumpy or hard? If its soft your shocks may be fine, if hard it may have got hard.
    The hard hitting on sharp breakers, pot-holes, cuts in the road in relatively higher speeds may be due to loose joints/bushes in the suspension. Plus it is not a corolla.

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    Quote Originally Posted by metalhead View Post
    @HellsGuardian
    Whats your cars behavior on uneven/off-road in slow speeds? Does it sway softly or hard? Also is the behavior on curvy speed breaker jumpy or hard? If its soft your shocks may be fine, if hard it may have got hard.
    The hard hitting on sharp breakers, pot-holes, cuts in the road in relatively higher speeds may be due to loose joints/bushes in the suspension. Plus it is not a corolla.
    Yes front bushings are broken. And my answer is hard to all ur questions lol
    Please comment on my post above regarding "clutch slip in first gear" too
    Thanks

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    @HellsGuardian
    The slipping in first gear has happened to me also but mostly on a U-turn. But for me it seems to be the tire slipping. Probably cold tires slip on a cold road without a screech. In a turn, inner tire press less on the road so slips.

    I also notice minute things in my car/bike without distracting my driving...
    May be sometime we can meet.

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    Z
    Quote Originally Posted by chaudhary9 View Post
    u tend to notice alot of stuff
    i keep my eyes on road only
    i think same happens in auto as well, shouldnt happen in manual, though when m flooring i keep my eyes on road haha
    auto mein to kick down hoti hai to rpm shoots n then car accelerates
    That behaviour on auto is normal because of torque converter but in manual mechanical coupling should not slip. I may be wrong bcz i havnt test driven many cars lol so i am not sure if it is normal or not

    Lol corolla men nahi passo men betha hun but yes mere office k gate men enter hote sath hi aik khada hai. My car passes over it with a "daz" sound while others (passo and corolla) doesn't. I have to go extremely slow to pass over it without making that sound

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