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Thread: shift shock in 2009 civic

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    Default shift shock in 2009 civic

    my 2009 civic gives gear shift shock in 1st to 2nd. I am facing this issue lot during jam pack traffic. I changes the engine and transmission oil with honda oil and spark plugs. All engine trany mount look gd. I took it to the honda dealer ship mechanic was unable to find the issue at first then when i drove and reproduce the issue then he said he don't know they shall do computer check. But they ant the car for 4 days and alot of money just to check. Local mechanic says its ok, some says just change the transmission. may be sensors in the transmission is bad. some say u joint inside of the axle transmission might be bad. So, all guess. Can any one please help? How ever there was 2 axle seals leak and main gear seal leakage and engine pane silicon gasket leak which i just got it fixed. car have 280,000 kilometers.


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    your civic is a 2009 and you have already clocked 280,000 kms on it?
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    your civic is a 2009 and you have already clocked 280,000 kms on it?
    If you see cars in middle east they have these kind mileage. Corolla and Civics 2-3yrs old having 200k kms and many chevy and fords with 600k 700k kms.

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    yes I know - my car is 15 years old and has about 285K. But OTOH I sometimes operate trucks whose odometers have more than 2 million kms on them and are not quite old either - they just have been run 24/7 for a few years straight only shutting down for oil changes or repair maintenance.

    That is regardless of the fact here.

    firstly - the OP has a very clueless and vague description of "mechanic says some sensors are bad in gearbox and best to change it"

    this translates to me as this fellow visited someone who does not know a screwdriver from a hammer and is flying by the seat of his pants - just trying to steal money out of the customers pocket - specially true if this poster is in the middle east (lots of shady characters out there)
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Yes, i am in middle east. And the guy before me clocked 280k. usually they live in different city and come to work and go for example if guy lives in sialkot and come to work in lahore.Now abt the mechanics they have proper work shops and they been doing lot of work. They seems educated. How ever they are not educated on the transmission of civic. they say in uae every one hate 8th generation civic auto transmision they are very week. Corrolas r the best. plus parts are also very hard to find only from the dealer ship. Well abt my problem the shift shock it happens more offten in going up into 2nd gear. some times it happen if i am goign on 100km and suddenly go down to 80 by applying breaks and again accelerate to go back to 100 then it give shock. Do you know what possible the issue?

    Thanks,

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    thanks Zulfiqar

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    its not just the 8th gen civic transmission - all honda autoboxes are clumsy and fail early - the only remedy seen by transmission builders is to install an external transmission filter and also cooler.

    This is after the fact that the pressure control valve body has been addressed to, it also can allow the main torque converter charge valve to get stuck, this cooks the torque converter and also does not let ATF to flow into the other pressure galleries to actually apply the clutches (If effect ruining the torque converter and also burning out the ATF) its known fault in honda autoboxes and there are some aftermarket components out there that address this fault.

    btw - your fault does sound like clogged or sticky shifting solenoids, you can remove and clean their screens of any clutch debris, A more correct analysis can be done from a honda scan tool to measure shift timing (how fast a shift starts and finishes) to see if you are losing pressure.

    How is the ATF level in there? overfilled ATF also causes this behaviour
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    thanks zulfiqar you sound well knowledgeable tech. cleaning or replacing selinoid sounds expensive job.is it? atm fluid i replaced lastime was 20km ago and is good so far.
    *) if you dont mind can i ask u another question related to same car but diff issue. engine trany oil was leake. i replaced the 2 axel seals. main engine crank seal. oil drain screw at bottom. now trany oil is not leaking. but engine oil still seam or leaking. mechanic said there is down botom left front is silicon tht is leake. we replaced tht. now still v little engine oil still leake. he is saying he opwn again the engine to chk crank seal or main enginee aeal behind fly wheel. but tht is gd. so he thinks this car have another pan or chamber he need to open and check tht. if tht ia leake. can u help.plz

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    Quote Originally Posted by oaleem View Post
    thanks zulfiqar you sound well knowledgeable tech. cleaning or replacing selinoid sounds expensive job.is it? atm fluid i replaced lastime was 20km ago and is good so far.
    *) if you dont mind can i ask u another question related to same car but diff issue. engine trany oil was leake. i replaced the 2 axel seals. main engine crank seal. oil drain screw at bottom. now trany oil is not leaking. but engine oil still seam or leaking. mechanic said there is down botom left front is silicon tht is leake. we replaced tht. now still v little engine oil still leake. he is saying he opwn again the engine to chk crank seal or main enginee aeal behind fly wheel. but tht is gd. so he thinks this car have another pan or chamber he need to open and check tht. if tht ia leake. can u help.plz
    Your description sounds like the sump is leaking and the mechanic is trying to fix those leaks.

    Firstly - you need correct sealant - not generic red/white/black/orange/yellow RTV, go to the chevy dealer and buy a tube of GM engine sealant, your mechanic will probably want to kill you when he uses it because its really hard to get out of the tube - It is one of the best engine sealants today - if your chevy dealer is not co-operative then go to a toyota dealer and ask them for a tube of FIPG - same quality but black colour.

    total working time of the sealants is 20 minutes meaning that the moment the stuff touches the pan lip the mechanic has a total of 20 minutes to fully install the sump at correct torque which is very low - ask him to use a screwdriver only to tighten the bolts.

    the bolts should be cleaned first in a bowl of petrol or solvents

    the sump should be checked for straightness.

    the sump should be checked for stripped threads in the drain plug and repaired as required.

    before applying the sealant - clean the surface of the seal lip with acetone or brake cleaner spray - same with engine - mechanic has to clean about 4 inches into the engine also to prevent oil from dripping from the lip edges of the block as the oil will not let the sealant bond.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Thanks. Yes that was the exact issue the way you described. It was not leaking from middle uper chamber. They used toyota seal like you described the black one. That issue hope fully is now resolved. Going to monitor the oil for next couple of days. Thanks zulfiqar.

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    Now back to the orginal question how to get selionoid cleaned? Is it expensive job?

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    One more issue after sealing the leake all the sudden my ac is not cooling. However compressor is turning on. Mechanic say they didnot took the gas out. However they refuel the gas for now

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    Quote Originally Posted by oaleem View Post
    Now back to the orginal question how to get selionoid cleaned? Is it expensive job?
    no its not expensive - any mechanic/technician who knows how to work on honda automatic gearbox will know how to clean them.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Thanks Zulfiqar. One more question. After getting the oil leak job done. I noticed that my ac lost cooling. It was just blowing air. when asked the mechanic. he said they didn't leaked the air. it should work fine. On checking thy said it is low. And refilled it. And now ac is working. how ever i noticed that when the car stop at stop light it is not cooling enough but when it runs it cools v good. And the blow of the ac from left driver side is low. It use to be high. Any tips please?

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    best to check for cooling fans operation.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Nice thread, because I also have the same question.
    shift shock in 2009 civic - g

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    Thanks, find out that one of the ac pipe was very little leaking the gas. Replaced it. Its little better now.

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    zulfiqar one more issue my car while in parking gear if i shift to drive then shift to reverse then shift to drive and then shift to reverse then it makes loud clunk noise after the shift. is that normal? and i changed the trany fluid 3rd time in 6 months and noticed the shift shocked had gone away 95 percent thanks. i keep comming back to u bcz ur solutions work instantly for me.

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