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Thread: Civic 95 engine swap

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    Default Civic 95 engine swap

    Dear members.

    So I have a weak stock carby D15 installed in my car, and after the gasket is gone 2nd time, the mechanic has proposed that I change the engine. As for the mechanic, he is considered quite reliable in the market.

    Now since the engine needs to be changed, I am thinking to jump to D15b dual vtec. I talked to the mechanic's engine guy in shershah, and he says engine with wiring and ecu for 70k.

    Considering your experiences, please guide me if thats a worthy option, and/or give suitable suggestions. Will it increase the resale value of the car, or devalue it? From what I think, the value will be increased of the car, but to those who know the potential of the dual vtec (correct me if im wrong).

    The guy also gave below options.

    1. D15b non vtec for 55k
    2. some efi engine (probably d15b non vtec) which will be combined with current carburetor in some way (if I head him correctly). Dont exactly recall the price for this option.

    Looking forward for expected assistance. Also let me know if maintenance costs will increase with vtec.

    Regards.


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    Quote Originally Posted by rozzzzz View Post
    second option if you want to keep your engine convert in into vtec ..not much of issue
    can you elaborate more on this option? Exactly what will be mine and what will be added?

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    ok guys i visited Shershah this afteroon.

    Getting dual vtec for 60k with wiring and ecu, but ecu is for automatic tranny. Didnt find any piece that would be extra ordinary good.

    Then there is another option, which is the D13b carb, and this engine is in really good condition (as per my mechanic). It comes with short ratio tranny as well (as confirmed by the seller). The engine is complete with air filter as well. It even had good condition oil inside too.

    For the vtec, more expenses will occur for the fuel pump (or fuel tank), wiring labor (for which a proper/experienced electrician will be required), and the proper ecu (for Manual tranny).

    Now what is the right thing to do?

    Is the D13b a good option? No doubt the engine was in good condition and when the air filter cover was removed, it was quite shiny even though from outside the engine was not that clean.

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    Also, there was a ZC engine, 1.6Ltr (SOHC non VTEC).

    Any comments about this?

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    Anybody home? Need your urgent suggestions guys!

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    As far as z6 is concerned I think it is not fuel efficient and d13b carby will be seriously underpowered
    And now u can pm as inbox has been cleared

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    ok so i got "no no" for d13b carby.

    Now, i have 2 options i guess.

    1. D15b Dual Vtec
    2. D15b non Vtec

    Other than the lower hp, what else i need to be aware of?

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    You need to put a pump in tank rather u go with vtec or non vtec, unles u are putting a carby, look for head code on dual vtec, u need p2j 003 ecu for it, p2j jxx are off auto n cvt ecu, i have a tank laying around with me which is perfect to go with pump. I replaced that cz replaced to efi tank. If u have hassle to cut yours u can get it from me at good offer, wiring is petty simple, use relay in wiring for fuel pump and good to go, its perfect time to replace your fuel lines too. Get an engine make sure all sensors are in good nick. Try to avoid opening the TB, use 10w30 oil and pour it out after 200-300km, use delo gold in gear u need 2.5L and good to go, n yes use concentrated coolent once done with radiator. Fans must be on auto.
    Economy of both engines depends on ur driving style 5gear 60-70km/h gives me 12-13 in city with auto fans and ac. Go for vtec one. My advice!

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    Quote Originally Posted by shazo View Post
    You need to put a pump in tank rather u go with vtec or non vtec, unles u are putting a carby, look for head code on dual vtec, u need p2j 003 ecu for it, p2j jxx are off auto n cvt ecu, i have a tank laying around with me which is perfect to go with pump. I replaced that cz replaced to efi tank. If u have hassle to cut yours u can get it from me at good offer, wiring is petty simple, use relay in wiring for fuel pump and good to go, its perfect time to replace your fuel lines too. Get an engine make sure all sensors are in good nick. Try to avoid opening the TB, use 10w30 oil and pour it out after 200-300km, use delo gold in gear u need 2.5L and good to go, n yes use concentrated coolent once done with radiator. Fans must be on auto.
    Economy of both engines depends on ur driving style 5gear 60-70km/h gives me 12-13 in city with auto fans and ac. Go for vtec one. My advice!
    Thanks.

    What if i dont find p2j-003 (or p2j-j11)? Will the auto/cvt ecu work? If not, is there a work around?

    As for the pump, I will consider replacing the tank because EGs dont have the low fuel indicator, and i want that as well in near future after swap (probably will DIY).

    My driving style when not speeding is keeping the RPM max on 2,000 under any gear.

    Advice taken.

    Efi fuel tank cost (approx)?

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    well it will work, you might get check light near shifting points, you would run rich too, there is a trick to convert auto ecu to manual, i have too look in past for that,
    well low fuel indicator can be active by changing the fuel guage with sensor one and you need to wire it to cluster.
    efi tanks are rare petty rare, one asking 12-15k for tank if available.

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    Quote Originally Posted by shazo View Post
    well it will work, you might get check light near shifting points, you would run rich too, there is a trick to convert auto ecu to manual, i have too look in past for that,
    well low fuel indicator can be active by changing the fuel guage with sensor one and you need to wire it to cluster.
    efi tanks are rare petty rare, one asking 12-15k for tank if available.
    I think i found it. See picture.

    Civic 95 engine swap -1556266

    Resistors on RP17 and RP18 are to be removed, and a jumper of 0 ohms to be added on RP18.

    So fuel gauge with sensor is easy to find? Its cost? I have read few DIYs and I dont think it very difficult to do so. Might also try to get hold of EG8 SIR cluster.


    I have decided to go for the dual vtec, and hopefully will be getting the engine soon (depending on availability of my mechanic).

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    one question: p2j-003 should be obd2a or obd2b? or does it only come in obd2a?

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    so i'll have to wait a couple more days since mechanic wasnt satisfied with vtec engines quality in shershah, and sellers there are saying new lot is arriving 4-5 days later. So will wait.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Maverickiz3d View Post
    so i'll have to wait a couple more days since mechanic wasnt satisfied with vtec engines quality in shershah, and sellers there are saying new lot is arriving 4-5 days later. So will wait.
    As xulfiqar bhai often says a proper overhaul with new parts is always better than replacement.

    Engine Valves 6,800 OEM Thailand.

    China 2,800

    Engine Rings 2,400 OEM Thailand

    China 1,200

    Engine pistons 6,400 OEM Thailand

    China 2,200

    Engine Gasket Metal OEM Thailand 2,800

    China paper 1,200

    Engine Main bearing OEM Thailand 2,800

    China 1,600

    Leath machine wala 6-8k labour.

    Mechanic 6-8k labour.

    Even if u use all Chinese parts the engine will be smooth and trouble free for 3 years or 50,000 km easily on CNG my guarantee.

    As xulfiqar bhai said u just need a good mechanic.

    First change your radiator new one China 4k, Thailand 8k. China will do the job.

    Check the flanges and all metal and rubber lines & hoses that circulate the coolant and change immediately.

    Use coolant ZIC or Abro or caltex whichever suits your budget. 500/L to 900/L good for 2-5 years easily with new radiator.

    Invest 800 on T-Stat Valve.

    Valve clearance 8-10 on intake valves and 10-12 on outtake valves for d13 and d15 both Cathy and EFi.

    Forget the dreams of Dual VTEC, reliability is much important than power.

    Do PM me your number if u want any reference of good mechanics or parts.

    My 89 Accord has clocked 315,000 km and 2005 Civic 205,000 km and by grace of almighty Allah working excellent.

    You can also PM Xulfiqar bhai but most probably his inbox remains full of queries all the time. PW should allocate him unlimited inbox keeping in view the time and efforts he devotes for users honorary.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    there is no mota or patla gasket - the so called mota gasket are the hand made replacement ones made from compressed paper material, the original steel gasket was never rs 400/- it was more close to Rs 4500/- for an OE part and about Rs 3000/- for a replacement OEM part like Stone DNJ, Cherry etc.

    the reason for Honda to use a steel gasket was that it transfers heat efficiently between the assemblies and because both head and block are the same material the gasket remains in place, dissimilar engines require a softer paper gasket as the head and block expand and contract at different rates.

    What ever you choose you to, make one thing sure, the technician or mechanic whatever you wish to call him, should follow correct procedure and work practice, not stupid whims from himself like "mota gasket leyaao" etc. These stupid whims and silly shortcuts are only done by them to ensure that you visit them every month.
    Xulfiqar bhai can we use metal OEM gaskits in high mileage cars or where engine head as already been surfaced once or twice ?

    Can thin metal OEM gaskit make way for coolant and result in white smoke ?

    What is your say on local theory of using double gaskits or paper ones ?

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    Quote Originally Posted by noomanghori View Post
    As xulfiqar bhai often says a proper overhaul with new parts is always better than replacement.

    Engine Valves 6,800 OEM Thailand.

    China 2,800

    Engine Rings 2,400 OEM Thailand

    China 1,200

    Engine pistons 6,400 OEM Thailand

    China 2,200

    Engine Gasket Metal OEM Thailand 2,800

    China paper 1,200

    Engine Main bearing OEM Thailand 2,800

    China 1,600

    Leath machine wala 6-8k labour.

    Mechanic 6-8k labour.

    Even if u use all Chinese parts the engine will be smooth and trouble free for 3 years or 50,000 km easily on CNG my guarantee.

    As xulfiqar bhai said u just need a good mechanic.

    First change your radiator new one China 4k, Thailand 8k. China will do the job.

    Check the flanges and all metal and rubber lines & hoses that circulate the coolant and change immediately.

    Use coolant ZIC or Abro or caltex whichever suits your budget. 500/L to 900/L good for 2-5 years easily with new radiator.

    Invest 800 on T-Stat Valve.

    Valve clearance 8-10 on intake valves and 10-12 on outtake valves for d13 and d15 both Cathy and EFi.

    Forget the dreams of Dual VTEC, reliability is much important than power.

    Do PM me your number if u want any reference of good mechanics or parts.

    My 89 Accord has clocked 315,000 km and 2005 Civic 205,000 km and by grace of almighty Allah working excellent.

    You can also PM Xulfiqar bhai but most probably his inbox remains full of queries all the time. PW should allocate him unlimited inbox keeping in view the time and efforts he devotes for users honorary.
    I need a good mechanic .... Plz pm me details

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    Quote Originally Posted by noomanghori View Post
    As xulfiqar bhai often says a proper overhaul with new parts is always better than replacement.

    Engine Valves 6,800 OEM Thailand.

    China 2,800

    Engine Rings 2,400 OEM Thailand

    China 1,200

    Engine pistons 6,400 OEM Thailand

    China 2,200

    Engine Gasket Metal OEM Thailand 2,800

    China paper 1,200

    Engine Main bearing OEM Thailand 2,800

    China 1,600

    Leath machine wala 6-8k labour.

    Mechanic 6-8k labour.

    Even if u use all Chinese parts the engine will be smooth and trouble free for 3 years or 50,000 km easily on CNG my guarantee.

    As xulfiqar bhai said u just need a good mechanic.

    First change your radiator new one China 4k, Thailand 8k. China will do the job.

    Check the flanges and all metal and rubber lines & hoses that circulate the coolant and change immediately.

    Use coolant ZIC or Abro or caltex whichever suits your budget. 500/L to 900/L good for 2-5 years easily with new radiator.

    Invest 800 on T-Stat Valve.

    Valve clearance 8-10 on intake valves and 10-12 on outtake valves for d13 and d15 both Cathy and EFi.

    Forget the dreams of Dual VTEC, reliability is much important than power.

    Do PM me your number if u want any reference of good mechanics or parts.

    My 89 Accord has clocked 315,000 km and 2005 Civic 205,000 km and by grace of almighty Allah working excellent.

    You can also PM Xulfiqar bhai but most probably his inbox remains full of queries all the time. PW should allocate him unlimited inbox keeping in view the time and efforts he devotes for users honorary.
    :$

    what am i supposed to do now? I have decided to go for swap, and now this.

    im really confused :/

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    Quote Originally Posted by hornblower View Post
    I need a good mechanic .... Plz pm me details
    Why PM? Post it here please.
    "Being between arabs, you call it "Jimmss Yukaan Sagheer", or GMC yukon." - Xulfiqar.

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    Lolllz .... Post it here buddy

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    Quote Originally Posted by noomanghori View Post
    Xulfiqar bhai can we use metal OEM gaskits in high mileage cars or where engine head as already been surfaced once or twice ?

    Can thin metal OEM gaskit make way for coolant and result in white smoke ?

    What is your say on local theory of using double gaskits or paper ones ?
    metal gaskets are great - but there are some requirements for using it, chief of which is surface type, to clamp a metal gasket the surface has to be really smooth - an RA of 30 or lower, such surface actually feels polished and may emit a rainbow shine, before clamping the head check the bolts and replace if stretched (TTY type usually)

    the metal gasket provides a good heat transfer medium that is why it is usually used in similar metal engines, old fibre gaskets were employed as iron expands different to aluminium - such gasket surface is supposed to be slightly rough for "tooth effect" to actually bite the gasket and lock it into place.

    the head can only be surfaced once and only if the head is not badly bent out of shape. Excessive milling shortens the head total height which also makes problems in camshaft timing
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    metal gaskets are great - but there are some requirements for using it, chief of which is surface type, to clamp a metal gasket the surface has to be really smooth - an RA of 30 or lower, such surface actually feels polished and may emit a rainbow shine, before clamping the head check the bolts and replace if stretched (TTY type usually)

    the metal gasket provides a good heat transfer medium that is why it is usually used in similar metal engines, old fibre gaskets were employed as iron expands different to aluminium - such gasket surface is supposed to be slightly rough for "tooth effect" to actually bite the gasket and lock it into place.

    the head can only be surfaced once and only if the head is not badly bent out of shape. Excessive milling shortens the head total height which also makes problems in camshaft timing
    Thanks one last question what does white smoke with loss of engine power means when there is no decrease of coolant ? Radiator new, Tstat working, no leakages in rubber or m?tal pipes;, gasket intact and new and no overheating at all. Head new with proper valves & clearance.
    Does it mean worn rings or pistons consuming engine oil ?

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