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Thread: civic 2002 , missing on high rpms

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    Default civic 2002 , missing on high rpms

    salam all,
    my civic 2002 A/T is doing something really strange, it is pretty fine on low rpms but when i accelerate it,it starts to do missing/hesitation .
    please help guys .thanks

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    Quote Originally Posted by aggressor.junaid View Post
    salam all,
    my civic 2002 A/T is doing something really strange, it is pretty fine on low rpms but when i accelerate it,it starts to do missing/hesitation .
    please help guys .thanks
    check the ignition coils for performance, the correct way to test them is a scope but I doubt someone has it and is willing to use it, a simple scan tool wont work either.

    one or more ignition coils are failing to fire under load.

    that is the usual issue but you can also be facing a fuel issue (bad fuel pump)

    check for any error codes in the ECU and then proceed.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    thanx for the reply
    but sometimes the issue just vanishes and car runs fine . but sometimes it gives really strange jerks.
    one more thing I want to add that one day its second cylinder from right. us k injector or anything else just stopped working the car was giving black smoke which means unburn fuel . is it realted to ignition coils ???

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    Quote Originally Posted by aggressor.junaid View Post
    thanx for the reply
    but sometimes the issue just vanishes and car runs fine . but sometimes it gives really strange jerks.
    one more thing I want to add that one day its second cylinder from right. us k injector or anything else just stopped working the car was giving black smoke which means unburn fuel . is it realted to ignition coils ???
    i faces the same issue once .. above 3ķ rpm car missing and sputter and one cylindrr produce power but not at higher rpm .culprit was spark plug

    as xulfiqar said coils n fuel pump could be primary problem that u should look for but u should also check change sparks.for checking u can use plug of your friend's car to your car to just check if problem gone then buy new plugs otherwise cgeck for fuel pressure n spark coils...

    in my case, i discovrd the issue after a long struggle that was spark plug .even honda dealer said your plugs are ok but they were not...

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    could be a choked throttle body ya choked airfilter?
    "The world ain't all sunshine and rainbows. It's a very ruff, mean place, and no matter how tuff you think you are, it will always bring you to your knees and keep you there permanently if you let it.You or nobody ain't never gonna hit as hard as life, but it ain't about how hard you hit, it's about how hard you can get hit and keep moving forward, how much you can take and keep moving forward. If you know what you're worth, go out and get what you're worth, but you gotta be willing to take the hit."
    - Sylvester Stallone

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    Quote Originally Posted by searchingeyez View Post
    i faces the same issue once .. above 3ķ rpm car missing and sputter and one cylindrr produce power but not at higher rpm .culprit was spark plug

    as xulfiqar said coils n fuel pump could be primary problem that u should look for but u should also check change sparks.for checking u can use plug of your friend's car to your car to just check if problem gone then buy new plugs otherwise cgeck for fuel pressure n spark coils...

    in my case, i discovrd the issue after a long struggle that was spark plug .even honda dealer said your plugs are ok but they were not...

    thanx bro,...going to mechanic to get it checked

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    update the thread about your fault

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    Quote Originally Posted by aamirq View Post
    could be a choked throttle body ya choked airfilter?
    throttle body serviced and air filter was replaced on last tuning hardly 3 weeks ago.

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    Quote Originally Posted by searchingeyez View Post
    update the thread about your fault

    sure

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    Quote Originally Posted by aamirq View Post
    could be a choked throttle body ya choked airfilter?
    if the air filter was so badly choked that it was causing misfires then it should have resembled a dried out river bed in the airbox.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by aggressor.junaid View Post
    thanx for the reply
    but sometimes the issue just vanishes and car runs fine . but sometimes it gives really strange jerks.
    one more thing I want to add that one day its second cylinder from right. us k injector or anything else just stopped working the car was giving black smoke which means unburn fuel . is it realted to ignition coils ???

    as with any repair of this nature, first the engine "normal operation" is verified - meaning fuel pressure, mechanical health and all electricals in place.

    once the fuel pressure is verified then proceed to test the ignition coils - the way I test them is to connect a scope to "see" when the ECU is firing each coil - I also use an amp clamp and relay that into the scope too - this way I overlap the output and can see how many amps the coil is pulling when the ECU ignition timing signal is commanded..

    The confirmation of a bad coil is that the timing signal is correct interval, but the amp pull was not there, confirmation of bad spark plug or missing fuel input is that the coil behaved normally but that cylinder failed an ignition event. If you saw black exhaust then the engine did get fuel - a small test on the injector with an LED or noid light can verify this.

    leave that aside.

    lets get to basics first - if your engine is misfiring on random cylinders then before any sort of repair - adjust the valve tappets correctly to factory specification, DO NOT let any jackass mechanic adjust them by "andaaza, tukka or hawaai fire" - you never know if the mechanic is diabetic and has numb fingers or is in need of nicotine to get his senses in order.

    Install regular cheap as chips BKR6ES-11 spark plugs in there and install the coils with a little coating of silicone grease on the boots of the coils. Proceed to test the rest.

    btw - what was the need to clean the throttle body?
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    if the air filter was so badly choked that it was causing misfires then it should have resembled a dried out river bed in the airbox.
    @Xulfiqar i tested my car 2 minutes ago. its injector's harness both terminal showing 12v when ignition is on (not started) . when i touch negatv prob to btry n one prob to injector harness 1st pin voltage was 12v .
    then i touched another pin it was also showing 12 v with respect to battery terminal .

    is one of terminal of injector harness not grounded andcontrolled by ecu?? then why its showing also 12 v . ? car has also cng setup but not using now a days)

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    one leg is fed 12V from the main relay, the other leg is a pull to ground switch from the ECU - it only will show ground pulses when the ECU is firing the injectors.

    the reason you see both positive is that the ECU is ON and ready, if you switch it off you may see 12V negative on the control leg.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    one leg is fed 12V from the main relay, the other leg is a pull to ground switch from the ECU - it only will show ground pulses when the ECU is firing the injectors.

    the reason you see both positive is that the ECU is ON and ready, if you switch it off you may see 12V negative on the control leg.
    it means its normal for a honda ?

    xulfiqar i posted a post having query regarding poor mileage in engine catagory recently

    plz have a look on my problem .post title is about low mileage

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    as with any repair of this nature, first the engine "normal operation" is verified - meaning fuel pressure, mechanical health and all electricals in place.

    once the fuel pressure is verified then proceed to test the ignition coils - the way I test them is to connect a scope to "see" when the ECU is firing each coil - I also use an amp clamp and relay that into the scope too - this way I overlap the output and can see how many amps the coil is pulling when the ECU ignition timing signal is commanded..

    The confirmation of a bad coil is that the timing signal is correct interval, but the amp pull was not there, confirmation of bad spark plug or missing fuel input is that the coil behaved normally but that cylinder failed an ignition event. If you saw black exhaust then the engine did get fuel - a small test on the injector with an LED or noid light can verify this.

    leave that aside.

    lets get to basics first - if your engine is misfiring on random cylinders then before any sort of repair - adjust the valve tappets correctly to factory specification, DO NOT let any jackass mechanic adjust them by "andaaza, tukka or hawaai fire" - you never know if the mechanic is diabetic and has numb fingers or is in need of nicotine to get his senses in order.

    Install regular cheap as chips BKR6ES-11 spark plugs in there and install the coils with a little coating of silicone grease on the boots of the coils. Proceed to test the rest.

    btw - what was the need to clean the throttle body?
    I replaced my auto-chowk so along with that I told my mechanic to service it too.

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    Quote Originally Posted by aggressor.junaid View Post
    I replaced my auto-chowk so along with that I told my mechanic to service it too.
    is problem solved?

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    Quote Originally Posted by searchingeyez View Post
    is problem solved?
    no @searchingeyez , it's friday today and my mechanic is not available.. I replaced auto-chowk a month ago because car was stalling on brakes and was unable to stay alive w/out A/c... it was dropping rpm.

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    Quote Originally Posted by aggressor.junaid View Post
    no @searchingeyez , it's friday today and my mechanic is not available.. I replaced auto-chowk a month ago because car was stalling on brakes and was unable to stay alive w/out A/c... it was dropping rpm.
    it could be due to bad ac idle adjstmnt however ...if solved the prb then good

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    Quote Originally Posted by aggressor.junaid View Post
    I replaced my auto-chowk so along with that I told my mechanic to service it too.
    you mean the idle speed control motor? - there is no choke assembly there, please keep in mind that if your engine is missing its thermostat valve the engine will drink petrol like its for free.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    you mean the idle speed control motor? - there is no choke assembly there, please keep in mind that if your engine is missing its thermostat valve the engine will drink petrol like its for free.
    yes she was drinking petrol like PAKOLA, before the idle speed control motor change. but now it is fine
    i'll go tomorrow for car scanning and all. and will inform you guys
    thanks for the support

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