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Thread: Engine optimization Corolla 2.0D

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    Default Engine optimization Corolla 2.0D

    I am posting you 2 pictures. These were taken at higher resolution but have been scaled down by the website.

    Engine optimization Corolla 2.0D - amcolian1097 albums mycar picture6532 2


    https://www.pakwheels.com/forums/mem...ture6531-1.jpg



    In the first one you see 2 plungers one is that of CSD (the one in depth) and I wanted to know the function of the second one. Both were marked by me as plunger1 &2 but due to resizing the font is too small to read.

    In the second picture there is an adjustment screw which is lying loose and I want you to please tell me its function and what to do with it?

    Fiinally of course please tell me the the correct way to release the CSD.

    BTW my mechanic is far from competent. That is why I want that I should be aware of what needs to be done and how is that to be done. I will just ask him to do what I would learn from you.

    Thanks.


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    I also own a 2004 corolla with 2c engine.I have it since 2004 when I bought it brand new.Its single hand driven with odo reading of 162322km.Its giving me 12.5km in one liter of diesel in 95% long route driving and in local it gives me about 10 to 11km per litre of diesel.

    Please advise me on how to improve its mileage?It starts very well in morning without any vibrations when cold,I guess no smoke on idling,its filled with the Toyota coolant which was replaced at about 100000km and not a single drop of plain water is added since 2004.No engine work done since 2004 except timing belt/other belts/clutch disc and plate change and oil and filter changes at regular intervals,never faced any over heating issue.I Used Liquimoly purge to avoid injectors/nozzles cleaning which but IMO no improvement except that the smoke is little bit reduced while accelerating in idling.And it still emits some smoke when accelerating in low gears I guess but sometimes it isnt there if I accelerate gently.

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    Quote Originally Posted by doctor View Post
    I also own a 2004 corolla with 2c engine.I have it since 2004 when I bought it brand new.Its single hand driven with odo reading of 162322km.Its giving me 12.5km in one liter of diesel in 95% long route driving and in local it gives me about 10 to 11km per litre of diesel.

    Please advise me on how to improve its mileage?It starts very well in morning without any vibrations when cold,I guess no smoke on idling,its filled with the Toyota coolant which was replaced at about 100000km and not a single drop of plain water is added since 2004.No engine work done since 2004 except timing belt/other belts/clutch disc and plate change and oil and filter changes at regular intervals,never faced any over heating issue.I Used Liquimoly purge to avoid injectors/nozzles cleaning which but IMO no improvement except that the smoke is little bit reduced while accelerating in idling.And it still emits some smoke when accelerating in low gears I guess but sometimes it isnt there if I accelerate gently.
    Were the valve clearances checked and adjusted? was the pump timed with a dial guage when the new timing belt was installed?
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    Were the valve clearances checked and adjusted? was the pump timed with a dial guage when the new timing belt was installed?
    No.Timing belt was changed in 2009 by Toyota Rawal Motors in Rawalpindi.And they did not not check valve clearances(is it tippet adjustment as called by our mechanics?) and also they did not time the pump with dial guage.I did not see any dial guage with them and I was there all the time because I NEVER leave my car unattended with a mechanic for repair.

    And I am 100% sure that 99% mechanics and the so called "Toyota Dealers'" Workshops do not even know these things what to talk of performing them.Please help Xulfiqar bhai.......You have always helped us and we all and Pakwheels.com is lucky to have you.

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    The valve clearances (tappet) are vital to ensure good running of the engine, so is the timing of the pump, it is set by using a dial guage to measure pump plunger lift at TDC of cyl 1 - These procedures are done on every timing belt change. Infact the correct timing belt change repair list for 100,000 kms goes like this.

    new timing belt
    new timing belt rollers
    new timing belt cover foam seal + mileage sticker
    new water pump
    new camshaft and crankshaft front oil seal
    new valve seals
    new engine top cover gasket
    check and adjust valve clearances
    check and time injection pump
    check fuel nozzle spray pattern and break pressure.

    All of this can be done in the same time they did the timing belt as the water pump is the holder of the injection pump too in a 2C diesel. The camshaft can be removed in another 10 minutes to replace shims to adjust valve clearances and also replace valve seals under them, the valve depress crane tool is used here.

    Once everything is bolted back into place the belt is installed and the pump timed. The nozzles are checked and adjusted, the injection pump is primed and the engine started.

    Doing this job half way is a sure cause for a headache.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    The valve clearances (tappet) are vital to ensure good running of the engine, so is the timing of the pump, it is set by using a dial guage to measure pump plunger lift at TDC of cyl 1 - These procedures are done on every timing belt change. Infact the correct timing belt change repair list for 100,000 kms goes like this.

    new timing belt
    new timing belt rollers
    new timing belt cover foam seal + mileage sticker
    new water pump
    new camshaft and crankshaft front oil seal
    new valve seals
    new engine top cover gasket
    check and adjust valve clearances
    check and time injection pump
    check fuel nozzle spray pattern and break pressure.

    All of this can be done in the same time they did the timing belt as the water pump is the holder of the injection pump too in a 2C diesel. The camshaft can be removed in another 10 minutes to replace shims to adjust valve clearances and also replace valve seals under them, the valve depress crane tool is used here.

    Once everything is bolted back into place the belt is installed and the pump timed. The nozzles are checked and adjusted, the injection pump is primed and the engine started.

    Doing this job half way is a sure cause for a headache.
    @Xulfiqar
    Thanks for the detailed reply.I dont trust the mechanics I know for these jobs because they will ruin everything.Can I just go for valve clearance,checking nozzle spray pattern and adjustment of timing now and will just these help somewhat?What do you say?And if I record the sound of my car engine while idling and email that recording to you, can you judge from that about the timing and give me advice accordingly?

    And also I have seen mechanics loosening something near diesel pump and then pushing the pump with a big rod and tightening the loosened nut.And while doing that the car's engine vibration is decresed and increased according to the force.And they call it "Timing Adjustment".What is that?

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    Sorry for long absence. Too busy.

    @ Doctor

    Sorry to break the tempo of your discussion.

    I got the tappet adjustment done from Pindi Gwalmandi but had to set aside my ideals because I was too desperate to get the problems, listed in my posts above, solved. No one could do it by the book because none had the depressor tool. The valve clearance was reduced and under-size shims were not available anywhere. So finally I was left with no option but to go to KHARADIA for grinding of shims.

    However I must confess that the mechanic was real expert and removed shims in no time even without a depressor tool. And finally when all was done, everything was fine. The starting is absolutely trouble free, there is no smoke except a light puff of smoke on cold start in the morning, that too for the startup only and none thereafter. So, now I am relieved and enjoying the drive.

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    they are adjusting the pump timing but why are they using a rod to twist it - its pretty easy when done correctly, the correct and only way I have ever known is to loosen the high pressure pipes at the pump, loosen the pump, mount dial guage and check the plunger advance. If you dont loosen the pipes the pipes will crack under stress when the engine runs.

    moving and "feeling" for timing is about as accurate as making a 1cm line with a 5 inch paint brush.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by amcolian1097 View Post
    Sorry for long absence. Too busy.

    @ Doctor

    Sorry to break the tempo of your discussion.

    I got the tappet adjustment done from Pindi Gwalmandi but had to set aside my ideals because I was too desperate to get the problems, listed in my posts above, solved. No one could do it by the book because none had the depressor tool. The valve clearance was reduced and under-size shims were not available anywhere. So finally I was left with no option but to go to KHARADIA for grinding of shims.

    However I must confess that the mechanic was real expert and removed shims in no time even without a depressor tool. And finally when all was done, everything was fine. The starting is absolutely trouble free, there is no smoke except a light puff of smoke on cold start in the morning, that too for the startup only and none thereafter. So, now I am relieved and enjoying the drive.
    Shims are available at every toyota showroom in Pakistan. You should never grind the valves, shims or buckets to adjust clearance, They are case hardened items - meaning that they have a hard skin which is resistant to wear. Grinding removes this skin.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by amcolian1097 View Post
    Sorry for long absence. Too busy.

    @ Doctor

    Sorry to break the tempo of your discussion.

    I got the tappet adjustment done from Pindi Gwalmandi but had to set aside my ideals because I was too desperate to get the problems, listed in my posts above, solved. No one could do it by the book because none had the depressor tool. The valve clearance was reduced and under-size shims were not available anywhere. So finally I was left with no option but to go to KHARADIA for grinding of shims.

    However I must confess that the mechanic was real expert and removed shims in no time even without a depressor tool. And finally when all was done, everything was fine. The starting is absolutely trouble free, there is no smoke except a light puff of smoke on cold start in the morning, that too for the startup only and none thereafter. So, now I am relieved and enjoying the drive.
    please tell me about ur mechanic, I mean the address/location or mobile number etc.

    @Xulfiqar
    Also suggest whether I should go for this tappet adjustment keeping in mind that my 2.0D engine vibrates only for a few seconds after cold start, and then its rpm become stable. And it starts with only half self, and there is very little smoke only during starting.

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    @Xulfiqar
    Should I go just for pump timing and valves clearance settings?What are the shims called by mechanics locally?

    @Amcolian1097
    Please share details of the mechanic.And my car has no issues with cold start and also there is just black smoke on starting and then in the acceleration if its aggressive but I avoid aggressive acceleration and also there is smoke when the speed is not enough for a particular gear e.g.accelerating in third gear from speed of 15km/hr where actually 2nd gear is needed.I avoid doing this but it happens if sometimes such thing is done.
    I am worried about consumption of my 2004 2.0D Saloon.Its giving me about 12.5km per litre in 90% long drive mood.I want to reduce its consumption of diesel.

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    you would have to make the dial gauge adapter and get a dial gauge yourself, I have not seen any workshop in Pakistan that had it - The toyota guys are supposed to have it but it usually sits somewhere unused and locked up. I have visited toyota showrooms for repair calls for automatics and other orphan imported cars, The funny thing for me was that this dealership had the automatic transmission test gauge kit but never used it.

    They only commented they have it after they saw me connect my gauges to the test ports. lol..

    The shims were called "sikka" by them and they can be had at the parts counter. Its a generic toyota part that is used on many engines. They are also required when you adjust the clearances on a 100 series corolla 1.6 GLi made by IMC Pakistan.

    the new engines are even more of a pain - there are no shims and the entire tappet is changed out, toyota makes them in 11 different sizes. If the smallest does not fit then the valve and seat and inspected.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    my optimizer is jammed... I tried many time by spraying wd40.. And some time took the spring off so that it activates.. And tried pulling it out by plass.... But failed all the time...
    Never Play For The Team, Always Play For Your Own FAith !!

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    @ Doctor
    Trying to send you a PM for the mechanic information but it fails for some reason. You may contact Ameerusman for that as I have sent him a PM which was sent successfully.
    I abstain from sharing this information at this forum because I am not very confident about the expertise of the mechanic since I had only one interaction with him.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    Shims are available at every toyota showroom in Pakistan. You should never grind the valves, shims or buckets to adjust clearance, They are case hardened items - meaning that they have a hard skin which is resistant to wear. Grinding removes this skin.
    I fully agree that grinding is not the right option but what to do when it is the only option. Many-a-times We have to depend on these people since we fail to do stuff ourselves either being too lazy or because of too sketchy knowledge or too busy in our jobs or businesses coupled with non availability of tools and hands on experience to use them.

    For the sake of example, The cold start device of my car is not working but I am afraid that I may mess something else if I try to remove and clean it myself

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    Quote Originally Posted by amcolian1097 View Post
    I fully agree that grinding is not the right option but what to do when it is the only option. Many-a-times We have to depend on these people since we fail to do stuff ourselves either being too lazy or because of too sketchy knowledge or too busy in our jobs or businesses coupled with non availability of tools and hands on experience to use them.

    For the sake of example, The cold start device of my car is not working but I am afraid that I may mess something else if I try to remove and clean it myself
    Call up different showrooms and ask their parts counter or service manager about those shims - and verify the prices before you commit to this job. It is also very good practice to ask for other parts that are exposed when such jobs are done - this makes for long life repairs.

    e.g.

    if it takes 3 hours to replace the timing belt on that car, it would add one more hour if the water pump, valve seals and shims are replaced. However if you only choose to replace the belt - it will take 3 - but replacement of the water pump will require 4 hours again as you need to remove the timing belt again.

    Your priorities maybe different but for me a car should be on the road more and less in the shop, if it is in the shop I make sure that I go through everything I had noted and also check and replace/service - in the mid parts. This practice may not be beneficial for mechanic as it cuts down his labour bill but is beneficial for the owner of the car.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    @amcolian1097
    Sir thank u very much for sending me the info. I shall go to him when ever I find time in near future.

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    @doctor
    I also tried to PM you the address of mechanic as given by amcolian1097, but there is some error in sending the same.

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    Quote Originally Posted by AmeerUsman View Post
    @amcolian1097
    Sir thank u very much for sending me the info. I shall go to him when ever I find time in near future.
    You are Welcome.

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    Quote Originally Posted by AmeerUsman View Post
    @doctor
    I also tried to PM you the address of mechanic as given by amcolian1097, but there is some error in sending the same.
    I have managed to send the details to DOCTOR

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    Your priorities maybe different but for me a car should be on the road more and less in the shop, if it is in the shop I make sure that I go through everything I had noted and also check and replace/service - in the mid parts. This practice may not be beneficial for mechanic as it cuts down his labour bill but is beneficial for the owner of the car.
    My priorities are not at all different than what you have stated. I always prefer doing the same. What I meant to say was that we get stranded in situations where we don't have many good or ideal options due to the reasons already stated. I have yet to find a mechanic who works with an approach to go through everything. They prefer to let the customers visit their workshops repeatedly.

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