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Thread: 1990 corolla wagon engine swap!?

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    Default 1990 corolla wagon engine swap!?

    Hello like i said above I drive a 1990 allwheel drive corolla wagon...and I want a new engine for it...alittle bigger then the 1.6..or witha little more power. If you guys could tell me a little bit more about my enigine or about what kind of swaps can go into my car please tell

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    Go for the 3S-FE /GE/ The GE is gonna be abit hard to find. You could also try the 5E-FE or the 7A-FE but you have to keep in mind, The horsepowers i going to reduce SIGNIFICANTLY with a AWD gearbox. If you're not throwin her around the outback, remove the ront drive shafts. Good RWD fun

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    I make alotta spellos. Pardon me on that!

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    Forget what everyone says......for a station Wagon....and for 4x4 the 2.0D engine model 99-2000 is best....go for it...

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    What is it with prople and the GODDAMN 2.0 D
    Its OBSOLETE. WAKE UP!!!!
    56hp@4200 rpm
    READ that THATS less THAN A STOCK Xli
    YOU FO FIGURE!!!

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    True that 2.0D has low HP but lets get the facts straight here....a station wagon isnt a sports car and the guy is not trying to convert it in to one. The engines you are mentioning would be impossible to run on sky rocketting petrol prices.....here....and if you put in CNG......there goes all the fun you become even slower that diesel.

    Plus a Diesel engine can take up a lot of beating..much more than a petrol engine can ever endure....thats why most of the SUV's are diesel.

    Understand. ??

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    Well while we're straightening out "the facts", lemme add something to you vast reservoir of automotive knowledge.

    1. Diesels are actually "Expensive" if to keep and maintain if you're weekly haul is less than 1550km.

    2. Being higher compression engines and thus using parts MORE resistant to wear and tear HENCE being MORE expensive.

    3. Take your normal oil change. The filters more expensive, The diesel usually takes up more oil, Runs for half the time the petrol Lubrication does and to top things off, you're screwed if there's engine blowby, cuz its gonna give ya all hell in winter.

    4.Not good for the environment. Diesel and especially ours with a cetane rating of 60 is lead, and the fun part is, the diesel fumes actually get absorbed in the land..on which you and i farm our produce.

    5. Look up the definition of a diesel. Its a low rpm machine. and whilst we're talking on the 2C its Obsolete.

    6. Petrol because of the octane's combustion properties, actually give you more milage THAN DIESEL, OR CNG!!!

    You say a diesel can take alot of beating. Try keeping the oil and filter unchanges for say 7 or 10 thou ks, and if it survives, maybe then you can lay claim.

    And word to the wise, The engines mentioned above are actually front runners in economy, power and performance. Compact, scissors gear twin cam engines.....The Gli?, we all know what a 4A-FE is capabe of.

    Sticking a Diesel powerplant in a petrol variant. Must be doing wonders for the stability huh?

    SO, STOP DIESELING!!
    unless its a "commonrail", diesels suck!

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    What u have said is all true...But This is a 4x4 car we r talking about and A 1.6 Gli 4A-FE engine......in a 4x4 configuration wont work.

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    Sez Who??. If i'm not wrong, the AWD Rolla comes factory fitted with either a 7A or 3S motor....But the guy wants morepower & all the good things in life arn't free!!

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    a few corrections, if i may, trueno20v:
    In the long run, the difference in the prices of Petrol and Diesel actually cancels out the effects of the more frequent oil changes in a diesel. change oil in a 2C every 5000 km, and use a generic filter and the engine will last atleast 150000kms.
    A diesel has low horsepower but good low-end torque, and acceleration is due to torque, not horsepower. A 2C engine in a 1990 AWD wagon will be actually quicker than a 1.3 engine, and lag slightly against a 4A-FE.
    The smoke from a Diesel engine is not as clean as from a Petrol engine but its SAFER. this is due to the high level of carbon mono oxide (CO) which a petrol engine produces.
    A petrol engine will NOT give more mileage than a diesel engine.
    And finally, scissor-gears are NOT front runners in power and performance. You need seperate belts/chains for both cams if u want power and performance, like in the 4A-GE (GTI Engine). As for stability, the shockabsorbers for a diesel car are different, so the car will be as stable as it was before.in fact, the 1990 in diesel will be more stable than an AE101 Gli.
    Commonrails are EXCELLENT, but the older 2C is good too.
    MY ADVICE? Use the 3C-TE diesel engine instead of 2C for a 1990 wagon. it will beat a Gli.
    HONDA (hon-duh) (noun) Swahili for "i will get a real car when i grow a real D**k"!!!

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    "In the long run, the difference in the prices of Petrol and Diesel actually cancels out the effects of the more frequent oil changes in a diesel. change oil in a 2C every 5000 km, and use a generic filter and the engine will last atleast 150000kms"
    I really have no idea where you got that from. Oil & filter replacement intervals are 2500 & 5000 respectivly and that too with OE filter.

    Don't let the idea of torque and horsepower mislead you. Ideally put, hosepower IS torque.Torque and horsepower are very closely related. A high revving motor does not need to produce much torque to get lots of horsepower. Similarly, a high torque engine may not develop lots of horsepower.
    Horsepower=TorquexRpm/5252
    Horsepower rises rapidly with rpm, especially when torque values are also climbing. Horsepower will continue to climb, however, until well past the torque peak, and will continue to rise as engine speed climbs, until the torque curve really begins to plummet, faster than engine rpm is rising.There is NO WAY that a 2C coupled with any transmission is quiker than a 1.3.(instead of arguing here, i'd suggest you have a read at the specifications and 0-60 and subsequent times of both).

    It may not produce CO, but you're surely forgetting about the NO,lead and sulpher content.
    Scissors gears in the "F"designated heads, were designed to give the combustion chamber a more compact design and increased power under 3,500 rpm required for everyday city driving. The "F" heads were designed for economy while the "G" heads becasue of their higher performance lack lower end torque but are more suited to high rpm applications.
    The diesel because of its design, is stronger in construction hence, Heavier. The suspension is uprated to cope with the weight. the CE100/120 and the EE100share same coils, but with different spring rates.
    And as far as dragging something goes, Explain this...
    Why does a 1.0ltr CB70 GTti, outrun a 3C-TE?
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    (1)If we change oil and filters the way YOU suggest, the engine should last for 200000+ kms.(2) Idea of torque and HP dont mislead me. my comment regarding HP and Torque is due to the comment that the 2C is a lamer cuz it has low HP.(3)i have practically raced a 2.0D against a GL (old shape). A 2.0D is quicker to 60 (Stock).(4)What u say about F and G heads is exactly what I said. scissor gears are efficient, they dont induce performance.
    HONDA (hon-duh) (noun) Swahili for "i will get a real car when i grow a real D**k"!!!

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    (5)diesel smoke with sulfer etc isnt so dangerous for environment. ever wonder why Carbon mono oxide levels matter so much whenever we talk abt pollution from cars damaging the environment? Diesel smoke produces less Carbon mono oxide, therefore is safer.(6)Furthermore, i said the diesel will have different SHOCKABSORBERS. am not sure about coil springs, but ur comment intrigues me."....the CE100/120 and the EE100share same coils, but with different spring rates...." springrate is determined by the composition of the metal and its thickness in a spring. How can the same springs have different spring rates?(7)The answer to your question regarding the GTti and the 3C-TE: cuz of twin-turbos and weight. if both these engines are put in a 1990 wagon, the 3C-TE will outrun the GTti.
    HONDA (hon-duh) (noun) Swahili for "i will get a real car when i grow a real D**k"!!!

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    1)Thats not what "I" suggest, that is what the manufacturer recommends (severe condition schedule.
    2)You mentioned, acceleration is due to "Torque". You're wrong! The fact that intrigues me is how an engine with lower Hp than both the 1.3 and the 1.6 will outrun one and fare better against the other!
    As far as the mixup about the cylinder heads is concerned, be it and F or a G, i have yet to see a diesel that revs as high as a gasoline engine.The fact that an F head allows for a more compact head design, better heat dissapation and flow allowing better bottom end torque than the G head is not a measure of performance? Right.
    While i'm sure exposure to CO can be reversed, Lead poisoning cannot. Don't just say something you can't backup. How in the LORD's name are Gasolines more polluting than diesels. We talk about CO because the vast m,ajority of cars use Gasoline or other alternative fuels. If it were diesel, we'd talking about lead would'nt we.
    I know you said SHOCKABSORBERS, but considering the opinionated person that you are, you would'nt need an explantaion stating thet SHOCKABSORBERS dont' make a suspension and neither do they (alone) contribute to stability. Actually there's various ways to alter spring rates in a progressivly wound spring other than metallurgy!
    & Twin Turbos?
    What seriously are you one about?
    The Daihatsu is a 1.0, Twin cam, intercoolerd turbo producing 102hp@6500 rpm & 93 lbft@3500 rpm.
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    hey fli-gti. i wanted to clear myself that mclaren produces abt 657hp while a modified supra can produce upto 900-1000hp but never heard of a mclaren beaten by supra. y is that.
    Amazing things happen when you turbocharge a TOYOTA!

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    Well a modified Supra or a GT-R for that matter hasn't gone up against the McLaren so i would'nt know. The Japanese tuning houses like Mines, Amuse, Jun, EastCLoud produce some fine fine examples. There's heaps of sub 10 seond Surpas and Skylines out there...I'm sure much faster than the F1. (The F1 has a 400m time of 11.6 seconds)
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    khair its better to put in the 4A-GZE for the best performance swap get a pulley upgrade n u get urself 180-5 horsies at ur wheels....with shots u can achieve 210-220.....but if want for fuel economy 7a-fe would be gr8.... if u want serious performance thn don go for the redtop or solver top 4A-GE koz it needs high oct to run
    --- Awalution ---

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    yaar Fli_GTi, i m not opinionated. Nor am i a stubborn mule, lolsss. i was just setting a few records straight, but this discussion seems to be going towards an argument for the sake of argument. THAT i dont want. i read ur mail and did some research on the net (so far, my views were just cuz of my superficial knowledge but my further comments would be after the research )!first of all, like i said, i have owned a 2.0D and what i used to do was change the oil around 5k; also a generic filter. i sold the car with about 120000 at the odometer and the engine was still going strong. thus my comment was from experience. i suppose the manufacturers service schedule has a shorter time period just to be on the safe side.
    secondly, acceleration IS due to torque. now THIS is from my research on the net!!! apparently, diesel engines have excellent low-end torque as compared to petrol engines. the trouble is, due to its very high compression ratios, the diesel engine does not have high rpms, thus low HP. ur formula for conversion of HP into torque is right, no denying that, but what i am trying to say is, a 2.0 D will accelerate faster than a GL cuz by the time the GL reaches its optimum torque levels, the diesel has been there and done that, so to speak! try this sometime, shift around 3500 RPMs on a diesel and u will see how quickly u reach 100. Also, the weight of a car is an important factor. in this case, the 1.6 engine is more than adequate for the corolla. the 1.3 is underpowered while the 2.0D is somewhere in between. i once raced a 1.6 GLi in an 83 corolla with the 2C engine installed , and believe you me, he couldnt shake me off his tail. neways, thats what my experience says, others might think otherwise.
    Regarding the F and G heads, they are both used for different purposes. the F is more efficient for street use, the G has more power, though not as good street usability. the SCISSOR GEARS have no realtionship to the head design (which is almost the same for both except for the valve angles (22.5 degrees(F) vs 50 degrees(G)). The point that i initally contradicted was that scissor gears mean more power. They DONT, they mean more efficieny. I fully agree with everything else u say about the F and G heads!
    another thing, gasolines are more polluting than diesels cuz diesels are more fuel efficient, thus producing lesser pollution than a gasoline engine of the same size. Overall, a diesel is good for the ENVIRONMENT. It produces lesser greenhouse effect inducing gasses, thus is favored more in Europe now. The details of the different gasses prodcued by both types of engines are beyond my "Dil Ka Zor", lol. BUT, the fact remains, diesels are better for the environment, which was the original discussion if i remember correctly
    about SHOCKABSORBERS, all i said was, in the 1990 wagon, u have to install the stronger shockabsorbers, or as u say, stronger SUSPENSION and the car will be stable as before. any contradicitons to that??? progressive rate coil springs have not been used in the 1990 wagon so are beyond the scope of this discussion...but i still say that ur comment " the CE100/120 and the EE100share same coils, but with different spring rates" is wrong. same coils cant have different spring rates.
    And lastly, twin turbos. My mistake, i admit. i was under the impression that the GTti had twin turbos. i stand corrected, thanks
    hmmm, if it has a single turbo, are you SURE it can beat a 3C-TE if put in the same car? like i said, weight is a VERY important factor. i feel that a GTti engine will lag considerably against a 3C-TE if both are put in a 1990 wagon.
    Awadkhan, the discussion was started cuz the guy wants a slightly better engine, not a hot rod! i suggested the 3C-TE or even a 3C-E cuz this engine will fare better than a 4A-FE that he currently has in the car, and will give better economy too! if serious performance is required, then sky is the limit
    Anyways, Fli_Gti bhai, i am sure we dont need to keep arguing over engines which both of us havent created, lolssss. my knowledge about engines is not as good as urs i suppose, but this discussion originally originated cuz trueno20v said the 2C was jurrasic. i stand firmly by this engine, even NOW it the best mix of economy and performance (NOT street racing performance, just everyday usability).
    HONDA (hon-duh) (noun) Swahili for "i will get a real car when i grow a real D**k"!!!

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    Hey Fli_GTi, i found an excellent definition of torque and power. it goes like this:
    "Torque gets a car going and Horsepower takes it to the top speed"!!!!
    Simply put, tporque gives u intital acceleration,the pulling power. Horsepower keeps u accelerating!
    The entire concept is VERY confusing, if u go by what is on the net. i even found the page from which u had quoted! lol. Torque and Horsepower are related directly. You cant define one without mentioning the other.
    HONDA (hon-duh) (noun) Swahili for "i will get a real car when i grow a real D**k"!!!

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    You're right, I just have this God aweful, self inflicted tendency to "set things right"...opinions are like arseholes, everyone has one, and everyone elses' stinks. Frightfully truthful as it may be,i'm not a believer of the analogy, more of a "everyone to his own" persuasion. I sometimes find it difficult to express myself dur to the sheer content of the discussion and I apologize if i don't get myself across thoroghly enough.
    Its nevertheless good to have an argument with someone who knows what they're talking about, people unfortunatly this forum has very few of!
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