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Thread: Bang my head: call to all experts, Corolla

  1. #1
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    Default Bang my head: call to all experts, Corolla

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    Guys, I want to bang my head with Wall. Have you ever lost your keys, what do you do, find it everywhere, look at it again and again at same place or nearby. Same is the issue with me ????

    9th generation corolla Xli, 2007 model, 135000 km on clock, with engine 2nz-fe 1nz-fe is neither vvt or vvt-i is a plain engine without O2 sensor but has variable resistor so I have no help from internet except www.toyodiy.com website which gives exact engine details, components attached along with part numbers once you insert frame no of your car on site.


    (
    03/2007 TOYOTA COROLLA (NZE120R-GEMDKP) )

    OBD test on this vehicle does not provides information related to Long Term Fuel Trim LTFT and Short term fuel trim STFT cross checked on my OBD device and that?s from Toyata Rawal Motors, Toyata GT motors so how do I determine the air to fuel mixture of this EFI car as they say that computer they have from company does not shows LTFT,STFT on this vehicle.


    PROBLEM TAG:


    Car starts well on cold start up on petrol, but stalls if we press accelerator in morning while engine is cold while on petrol. Anyway once switched to CNG then flies but after 5 minutes once temperature has reached its optimum temperature then car runs well even on petrol.


    PROBLEM TAG:

    Vehicle stumbles on cold startup if accelerated but no problem while idling.

    PROBLEM TAG:

    Car stalls on petrol once accelerated from cold startup but becomes ok once attained proper operating temperature.

    Problem is a year old problem, guess what I have tried and done numbers of times

    Fuel Pump:
    Changed with denso original

    Fuel Filter:
    Changed twice with Toyata genuine fuel filter twice in last 15000km.

    Fuel Pressure Regulator:
    changed twice in last 15000 km.

    Fuel Pressure Test:
    Nobody had fuel gauge so had to buy my own. Fuel pressure is 42PSI once clicked and does not drops below 36psi even after 5 minutes. Mechanic says that let is try to install kabli and let?s see and I am sick and tired of everyone guessing, spending my money and still no results.

    Injectors ultrasonic cleaning:
    done from Nazir autos some 7000km back, injectors were fine but were cleaned again. Since then I regulator disconnect the injectors and keep on cleaning with carburetor cleaner at times and again expecting a magic to take place. I have disconnected individual injectors several time once car is idling and it stalls indicating that fuel injectors are firing properly.

    Ignition Coils:
    although, car runs perfectly well on CNG but ignition coils were disconnected while car was idling. It stalled and showed all of them to be ok both on petrol and CNG.

    Spark Plugs:
    sick and tired of changing them, adjusting the clearance and cleaning it after every 500km. this has became a joke.

    Tappet settings and valve clearance:
    Checked before twice and again checked today. Verified to be ok and within specs.

    Trouble Codes:
    car does not gives any trouble code.

    Throttle body wash:
    throttle body cleaned, idle control valve adjusted and it seems to work fine as once its position is changed then either idle rpm increase or decreases. Throttle position sensor works ok as obd test reveals that it is changing its position once we hit accelerator.

    MAF sensor:
    it gives flow of air and also provides intake air temperature. I have bought a second hand from scrap yard, switched its position but data on both the sensors matches 100%. Toyata motors have also tried to install a new one as a smart mechanic highlighted a problem with his blind fate, changed it but problem was intact so he took it back declaring the original to be ok.

    Intake Manifold:
    recently, I started suspecting that intake manifold maybe blocked but once it was removed then it seemed clear, slightly dirty but nothing such that can block the air passage. Cleaned and was installed back but problem is intact.

    Coolant Temperature Sensor:
    suspecting that it may be a problem so I looked at its reading on EML327 once car is started. It starts from 20 C and goes all the way to 92 C and now that I look at it every time once car starts. Although, I can change this but will I keep on spending money as results looks ok.

    Intake Temperature Sensor:
    this reading varies from 55 F to 70 F depending upon the temperature and sensor comes within the MAF sensor. It has been replaced with other MAF sensor I have but OBD shows same consistent readings on both the sensors so have attached it back.

    Air Filter and Housing blockage:
    it has no blockage like people do it on CNG cars. Clear air passage, no obstructing in between. Seems fine to me , as I take it off and put it back every time. Clean it as well.

    PCV valve:
    You know this is for Engine ventilation, removed and cleaned, seems ok as air passes one way and installed back. No improvement.

    Knock Sensor:
    Today, I got it opened, although did not had any trouble code from ECU. It seemed perfectly clean from inside so got it installed again without disturbing anything.

    Variable Resistor:
    this controls the air to fuel mixture, increases supply of petrol and has a specific procedure for increasing or decreasing the petrol. But you know what, I visited toyata GT motors, Toyata motors as they did not had the specific equipment to test and adjust it. So blindly said that problem is not with this part. Manual says that it not be disturbed or adjusted without measuring the CO2 content from exhaust.

    Fuel Tank inspection:
    fuel tank opened, checked and seems ok and crystal clear.

    Engine Condition: throws water droplets out on cold startup in morning from exhaust, mechanic says that its a sign that engine is in good condition, oil changes after every 5k, diary maintained, no signs of sludge so far. rocks on cng.

    I don?t know, I have got nut, Every mechanic wants to repeat older steps, once satisfied that they are ok, then says ?I don?t know?. Even toyata mechanic says ? temporarily tries to satisfy me, charges and next day problem is back. Don?t have so much time that I keep running around a shitty reason, they keep charging me and problems remains intact.

    Kindly help me solve the puzzle as I keep on repeating previous steps. If problem is known, I can repair it but here I don?t know what is an issue.
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  2. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by VCheng View Post
    I think there is at least one in Lahore that was posted on PW a while ago. I am sure there are others too.
    then i will search for it. its bad air to fuel mixture, that i know but cannot diagnose it further and confirm it. will try to replace knock sensor as well. as i was reading a post where someone highlighted a bad knock sensor and said car runs well on cng but electrician has highlighted an issue knock sensor, definitely he must have read the error codes but here i dont see any such.

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    Quote Originally Posted by RollOnBigMaMa View Post
    After you clean them, does the issue go away? Even for sometime?
    not at all. idling is always superb both on cng and petrol. i myself clean this and adjust this so when ever i get frustrated then i do every thing again. if i remove the wiring harness then car simply throws the error code which i can see.

  4. #23
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    Didnt go through all the replies but did u check auto choke ? Is it working ? Had same issue with my bros 06 xli last year got the auto choke fixed (it was blocked due to carbon) every thing fine since then.

    Sent from my GT-I9300 using PW Forums mobile app

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    Quote Originally Posted by VCheng View Post
    I think you should install the EC-1 device and see the magic happen. Or not.
    advertizing EC-1 good approach

  6. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by atta1111 View Post
    advertizing EC-1 good approach
    You are welcome. Good Luck!

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    Quote Originally Posted by usmanhassan000 View Post
    try showing it to mushtaq in gawal mandi

    I know Mushtaq Autos, my dad took the car to him and his guys took out the head and claimed the jammed tappets. Whatever he did, I don’t know but he came back with a 5k bill. Problem was still intact, as it was on cold start, I was frustrated as I did not expected my dad to give the car to anyone as was the one dealing with the issue. Later today, I got the tappets cross checked again from a mechanic and they said that its within the spec.

    people try things what ever they have in their mind but it does not works out and i have already tried it before from someone else.

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    it seems that your vehicle is runnig lean at cold startup can help you in this matter .. just
    pm me

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    Quote Originally Posted by VCheng View Post
    You are welcome. Good Luck!
    thanks buddy

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    Quote Originally Posted by RollOnBigMaMa View Post
    What do I do if its either of the both? Lean or rich? For your issue, I think I know someone who fixed the same issue in a SE Saloon, it has a different motor than yours though, but might work. Tracing him.
    i dont want someone to mess with variable resistor and try to do things by hit and trial. i can also do this and maybe i will try to buy a second hand variable resistor from scrapyard. its just like spending without knowing.

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    Quote Originally Posted by atta1111 View Post
    it seems that your vehicle is runnig lean at cold startup can help you in this matter .. just
    pm me
    maybe sure and most likely lean or rich , i am willing to try everything. give me a hint, show me a way and i will get to bottom of it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by atta1111 View Post
    thanks buddy
    Thank your friends in high places, not me Sir. Thank them.

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    Quote Originally Posted by talhawaleed View Post
    maybe sure and most likely lean or rich , i am willing to try everything. give me a hint, show me a way and i will get to bottom of it.
    not maybe sure 50000% sure your car run's lean at cold start. and clear one thing up the varient's of toyota vehicle's with Vane Sensor type does not show any fuel trimming at all clear this concept before now come toward what is happening in your vehicle right now. vane sensor has to be adjusted according to each tuneup you done at different milage's so in your case it is still at stock setting so first tell me the actual milage on your odometre so I can calculate the total tuneup volt's for the VAF.

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    m having the exact same problem with my Gli 07 which is 115000 on ODO n it also stalls if i accelerate it on cold start-up... but after starting my car n idling just for a minute it becomes perfectly fine n then no stall at all !!
    i showed my car to many gud mechanics but no solution at all... everyone told me its normal in winter season ur car is perfectly fine
    so do update us if u find any cure to this problem !!
    P.S : my car is running on petrol from December 2012 no CNG after that !!

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    Quote Originally Posted by atta1111 View Post
    not maybe sure 50000% sure your car run's lean at cold start. and clear one thing up the varient's of toyota vehicle's with Vane Sensor type does not show any fuel trimming at all clear this concept before now come toward what is happening in your vehicle right now. vane sensor has to be adjusted according to each tuneup you done at different milage's so in your case it is still at stock setting so first tell me the actual milage on your odometre so I can calculate the total tuneup volt's for the VAF.
    that looks like a clue as i did not knew about vane sensor. my car has 135000 km on clock.

    let me see if this sensor exist on www.toyodiy.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by omer91 View Post
    m having the exact same problem with my Gli 07 which is 115000 on ODO n it also stalls if i accelerate it on cold start-up... but after starting my car n idling just for a minute it becomes perfectly fine n then no stall at all !!
    i showed my car to many gud mechanics but no solution at all... everyone told me its normal in winter season ur car is perfectly fine
    so do update us if u find any cure to this problem !!
    P.S : my car is running on petrol from December 2012 no CNG after that !!
    seeems like i found someone with common problem. good to hear and lets hunt the solution

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    Quote Originally Posted by RollOnBigMaMa View Post
    Shouldn't it happen ALL the time then? I mean switch it off, start up again and bog?
    I experienced this on non EFI car. switching from CNG to PETROL and vice versa was done manually by clicking the cng switch( 1st click cuts off fuel second click starts CNG) and it happened all the time)

    1st click cng is cut off let it burn then right when its about to die click again and you are done.
    If both(click 2 times instantly) fuels get mixed it will stall if accelerator is pressed.
    RIP

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    Quote Originally Posted by atta1111 View Post
    not maybe sure 50000% sure your car run's lean at cold start. and clear one thing up the varient's of toyota vehicle's with Vane Sensor type does not show any fuel trimming at all clear this concept before now come toward what is happening in your vehicle right now. vane sensor has to be adjusted according to each tuneup you done at different milage's so in your case it is still at stock setting so first tell me the actual milage on your odometre so I can calculate the total tuneup volt's for the VAF.
    This is what i have found with keyword vane on my engine. no result against VAF.

    image on url below shows how vaf looks like

    Vane Airflow VAF Sensor

    but did not see any such thing on this vehicle.

    it has a variable resistor, if you are referring to, which might be a similar thing and adjusts air to fuel mixture ratio.


    Diagram 45-02: VANE PUMP & RESERVOIR (POWER STEERING)
      part 44360 : RESERVOIR ASSY, VANE PUMP OIL
      part 44305 : CAP SUB-ASSY, VANE PUMP OIL RESERVOIR
      part 44443B : BRACKET, VANE PUMP
      part 44442A : BRACKET, VANE PUMP, REAR
      part 44320 : PUMP ASSY, VANE

    Diagram 16-05: V-BELT
      part 44310A : BELT, V(FOR VANE PUMP)

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    Quote Originally Posted by talhawaleed View Post
    that looks like a clue as i did not knew about vane sensor. my car has 135000 km on clock.

    let me see if this sensor exist on www.toyodiy.com
    clear your inbox and yes you can find it on DIY but the refference name there is VAF sensor (Vane Airflow Sensor/ Volume Air Fuel Ratio sensor) what ever you like's to call it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by qwertypoiu View Post
    I experienced this on non EFI car. switching from CNG to PETROL and vice versa was done manually by clicking then cng switch( 1st click cuts off fuel second click starts CNG) and it happened all the time)

    1st click cng is cut off let it burn then right when its about to die click again and you are done.
    If both(click 2 times instantly) fuels get mixed it will stall if accelerator is pressed.
    switching between different fuels is not an issue. starting is also not an issue.

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    Our corolla was giving a similar issue. We took it to magic motors. Injectors were ultrasonically cleaned, throttle body serviced, plugs were black and so they too were replaced. Then he connected obd scanner and said that oxygen level in mixture is less than optimum, his helper adjusted something near the air filter box (I was inside the car so didnt see where). Car is normal now

    He was seeing oxygen level from the obd scanner. Initially it was 11.6 percent and he adjusted it to 12

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