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Thread: Knocking problm in corolla GLI 2010...

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    Default Knocking problm in corolla GLI 2010...

    Hello guyz, i need ur help regarding my corolla GLI 2010 (70,000 kms) totally petrol driven which starts knocking whenever its moving on low rpm in higher gears like if im driving in 4th gear and the rpm is at 2.5 to 3, and stops knocking when the rpm goes above 3, i also feel lack of power and its not smooth as it should be. Rpm also drops little bit sometime. I tuned my car 1 month ago and replaced plugs and air filter from toyota dealership. Kindly suggest me. Thx


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    Quote Originally Posted by faizy46 View Post
    Hello guyz, i need ur help regarding my corolla GLI 2010 (70,000 kms) totally petrol driven which starts knocking whenever its moving on low rpm in higher gears like if im driving in 4th gear and the rpm is at 2.5 to 3, and stops knocking when the rpm goes above 3, i also feel lack of power and its not smooth as it should be. Rpm also drops little bit sometime. I tuned my car 1 month ago and replaced plugs and air filter from toyota dealership. Kindly
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    1) Use good quality fuel (high octane petrol)
    2) Check ignition timing
    3) Check ignition timing auto advance mechanism functional operation
    Don't leave a highway for a byway....

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    CAT IS Clogging up with sulphur get it serviced and you are good to go.

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    Default Knocking problm in corolla GLI 2010...

    Quote Originally Posted by imrananr View Post
    1) Use good quality fuel (high octane petrol)
    2) Check ignition timing
    3) Check ignition timing auto advance mechanism functional operation
    And how much time it takes to adjust the ignition timing? Any fair idea?


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    Quote Originally Posted by rajaatta View Post
    CAT IS Clogging up with sulphur get it serviced and you are good to go.
    Yes will chk Cat aswell as im planing to go to toyota workshop.


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    Quote Originally Posted by faizy46 View Post
    Yes will chk Cat aswell as im planing to go to toyota workshop.


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    Does GLi 2010 have a cat? If it does, knocking is usually not attributed to a chocked catalytic converter.

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    Quote Originally Posted by msabbasi View Post
    Does GLi 2010 have a cat? If it does, knocking is usually not attributed to a chocked catalytic converter.
    yes it has the CAT and `the problem he is facing is (it starts knocking whenever its moving on low rpm in higher gears like if im driving in 4th gear and the rpm is at 2.5 to 3, and stops knocking when the rpm goes above 3, i also feel lack of power and its not smooth as it should be)

    clearly indicating the clogging of CAT with sulphur.

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    Quote Originally Posted by rajaatta View Post
    yes it has the CAT and `the problem he is facing is (it starts knocking whenever its moving on low rpm in higher gears like if im driving in 4th gear and the rpm is at 2.5 to 3, and stops knocking when the rpm goes above 3, i also feel lack of power and its not smooth as it should be)

    clearly indicating the clogging of CAT with sulphur.
    Thanks for the help bro.


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    Gli 2010 has no CAT !
    My dear ALLAH when I loose hope, help me to remember that Your love is greater than my disappointment and Your plans for my life are better than my Dreams.

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    Knocking is related to basically fuel octane rating (to put it crudely, octane = quality). Lower octane fuels work with car having lower compression ratio. High compression ratio cars need a higher octane fuel. If the octane and compression ratios are suited to each other and the car is still knocking, then there is a timing issue - the timing is too far advanced.

    If the timing and octane and compression ratio are all OK, then there is a very rare possibility of EXCESSIVE carbon build up on the piston crowns and/or exhaust valves. This carbon glows red hot with the combustion process and begins to act like a spark plug burning the air/fuel mixture prematurely as soon as it enters the combustion chamber much like an advanced ignition scenario.

    If your car does not knock in the morning when it is cold and begins to knock once it reaches operating temperature, then, in addition the above cause, there is even a rarer possibility that oil starvation is occurring at the cylinder walls and the engine is near seizure mode. But I don't think that is happening since your engine is still running and has not become spoilt.

    You will have to investigate the cause elliminatinating them one by one.

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    Quote Originally Posted by msabbasi View Post
    Knocking is related to basically fuel octane rating (to put it crudely, octane = quality). Lower octane fuels work with car having lower compression ratio. High compression ratio cars need a higher octane fuel. If the octane and compression ratios are suited to each other and the car is still knocking, then there is a timing issue - the timing is too far advanced.

    If the timing and octane and compression ratio are all OK, then there is a very rare possibility of EXCESSIVE carbon build up on the piston crowns and/or exhaust valves. This carbon glows red hot with the combustion process and begins to act like a spark plug burning the air/fuel mixture prematurely as soon as it enters the combustion chamber much like an advanced ignition scenario.

    If your car does not knock in the morning when it is cold and begins to knock once it reaches operating temperature, then, in addition the above cause, there is even a rarer possibility that oil starvation is occurring at the cylinder walls and the engine is near seizure mode. But I don't think that is happening since your engine is still running and has not become spoilt.

    You will have to investigate the cause elliminatinating them one by one.
    Hat's off to you. Technically very well explained.
    Like in my previous response in this thread, check ignition timing and ignition timing advance mechanism operation.
    Don't leave a highway for a byway....

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    Quote Originally Posted by imrananr View Post
    Hat's off to you. Technically very well explained.
    Like in my previous response in this thread, check ignition timing and ignition timing advance mechanism operation.
    Thanks. My knowledge of the OP's engine is non existent. However, since it is an EFI engine, I do not think it would have a conventional distributor which allows the timing to be adjusted and by extension does not have a centrifugal and/or vacuum advance. On the other hand, more likely, is that it has a crank position sensor and a cam position sensor and a throttle position sensor all of which send signals to the ECU that determines the optimum spark timing. Based on this, one could say that any one of these is sending confusing signals to the ECU who, in its infinite wisdom, is calculating the wrong spark timing. Of course all this is mere conjecture to be determined by hooking up the car to a diagnostic tool for a final diagnosis.

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    You need to get your car scanned for any codes and irrelevance in live data

    What you mentioned sounds like the vvti system has taken it's toll and needs to be freshened up
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    Thanks alot guyz for ur helpful suggestions. I'll share my experience aftr getting it done from toyota.


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    It Can Simply Be A BAD Fuel ...! Heard It Alot Of Times From Pesh...! Reason BAD FUEL..!

    Low Octane Fuel...Simply Mixed Up .......But An OBD Scan Can Clear All Your Doubts Regarding It....!
    TOYOTA Sprinter 86- AE80 DOHC 20v'D TOYOTA Corolla 98- AE101 4AFE 16v

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    I m amazed. Where do u guys live! I mean u ppl hv so much techno info. Amazing.

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    Quote Originally Posted by faizy46 View Post
    Thanks alot guyz for ur helpful suggestions. I'll share my experience aftr getting it done from toyota.


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    So, any updates
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    Bro i have gli 2011 this is my new ride i bought few days ago.after buying i m change plugs and tuneup the car like manifold cleaning. But bro problem is still on place.
    Jab ghari start karta hn jab thandi ho tu sab theek rehta hy bass agar heatup honay sy pehlay accelerate karon tu 2 hazar tak knocking ki awaz ati hy. Aur us sy upper janay per yani 2 sy above per awaz nahi ati. Aur jab heat level normal per a jata hy yani center per guage ati hy tu phir awaz nahi ati.
    Local avg hy 10 km/l aur long routes per 16km/l
    Both avg with light foot.
    17" k low profile tyre hian aur body kit buy karty hi utarni pari kyun k main jahan rehna hn wahan lower kit use nahi ho sakti.

  19. 02-12-2014, 07:25 PM

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  20. 02-12-2014, 07:49 PM

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    Quote Originally Posted by maan6 View Post
    Bro i have gli 2011 this is my new ride i bought few days ago.after buying i m change plugs and tuneup the car like manifold cleaning. But bro problem is still on place.
    Jab ghari start karta hn jab thandi ho tu sab theek rehta hy bass agar heatup honay sy pehlay accelerate karon tu 2 hazar tak knocking ki awaz ati hy. Aur us sy upper janay per yani 2 sy above per awaz nahi ati. Aur jab heat level normal per a jata hy yani center per guage ati hy tu phir awaz nahi ati.
    Local avg hy 10 km/l aur long routes per 16km/l
    Both avg with light foot.
    17" k low profile tyre hian aur body kit buy karty hi utarni pari kyun k main jahan rehna hn wahan lower kit use nahi ho sakti.
    Use high octane fuel HOBC.
    Don't leave a highway for a byway....

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    Imran bhai hobc milta hi nhi sialkot sy ik filling station per milta hy per woh b fake. Aur agar lahore jaon ga tu fill karwa lon ga per iska faida kahin ghari ko iski latt hi na lag jaye lol

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