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Thread: Corolla 2.0D Saloon Engine and Transmission problem.

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    Default Corolla 2.0D Saloon Engine and Transmission problem.

    AOA members,

    i have a corolla 2.0D saloon, 2003 which has started to create problems when i took it to Pakistan tour in January 2015, before that engine had no issue whatsoever and used to start normally in single glow time and single self.

    few things to notice before i mention the problems are, CSD is operational and pump and nozzles are calibrated from Cummins PK and it is timed with dial gauge, fans are auto, valve clearances as per manual i.e. 0.28-0.30mm.

    Engine problems:

    1 - Cold Starting problem with missing, knocking and white smoke - [SOLVED post#25] - does not start when engine is cold and if push started it produces a lot of white smoke and knocking, before the tour i changed its glow plugs as old plugs were taking about 8,9 seconds to fully glow up while new ones were glowing in 6 seconds, cold start issue was initially because of a weak wire from battery to glow plugs, after changing the wire problem was slightly resolved and engine used to start after 3 glow timers but later on it totally refused to start irrespective of the glow timers.

    my electrician took out the glow plugs for checking purpose and found oil on the 1st and 3rd glow plug from the pulley, i also feel that knocking sound i also from the 3rd cylinder or somewhere near it.

    yesterday i checked the resistance of glow plugs and it was found to be 0.4-0.5 ohm of all four plugs so i again installed old glow plugs whose resistance was varying from 0.9-1.8 ohm and today morning i gave 3 glow timers and it started with 4,5 self and knocking was there but much reduced on old glow plugs.

    2 - Starter motor - [SOLVED post#11] - Mechanics say that the starter motor is taking load and not rotating the engine at the speed it should to start it that's why the engine does not start in cold, i do agree with them to the extent that starter motor is somehow slow but it was starting the engine without any knocking n missing and still it starts the hot engine perfectly, now even if i push start it, engine misses and knocks on cold.


    Gear problem:

    - while i was on the tour, car's 5th gear suddenly came to the position between reverse and 5th just as i left accelerator, when engaged it again into 5th and left clutch there was some sound from the gear it again came between 5th and reverse so without taking any risk i drove it in 4th gear all the way to Karachi. now showed it to a gear mechanic n he said 'faag kat gai hai isski' and if i forcefully keep it in 5th while leaving clutch it'll work fine and the same happened, now i have to hold the gear while leaving clutch in 5th gear.


    -speedometer sensor is installed in gear and its not working properly because original 'garari' of #32-27 is not available. when i cold start it the speedometer doesn't work, after a drive of around 5-7kms speedometer slowly starts working but does not show accurate speed like if i am driving on 60 speedometer will show 50 and if i keep the accelerator pressed speed needle stays constant on wrong speed while if i leave the accelerator the needle starts dancing between 10-20 when actual speed is 30, between 50-60 when actual speed is 70, etc

    -gear gets hard if the ambient temperature is high or if driven with ac or the car is continuously driven on high rpm like when 5th gear wasn't being engaged so while driving on 4th gear rpm was above 3000 rpm n gear got hard, and it is not only hard it gets extremely hard to shift it, however its perfect when cold or driven without ac or on low rpm.

    last year i thought that my car had starting issue when its hot because the starter acted as if battery is down when starting on engine's optimum temperature but i was wrong and found that if i start the car with clutch pressed the starter would act normal so it means the hard gear also makes the starter motor work slow.

    -considering the above problems shall i replace the gear or get it repaired ? and idea of its cost ?


    @Xulfiqar bhai and other senior members kindly help.


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    Quote Originally Posted by Salman922 View Post
    That's great, can u please mention the exact details of valvoline oil like grade, viscosity, etc ?

    And how much time do they take to deliver ?

    Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk
    Its all fleet premium 15-40 and it has same grades etc as delo gold but man its so better

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    Quote Originally Posted by akash190 View Post
    Its all fleet premium 15-40 and it has same grades etc as delo gold but man its so better

    Sent from my GT-S5301 using PW Forums mobile app
    Will give it a try, my car's oil change is due after approx 1,000kms. Thank you

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    Quote Originally Posted by Salman922 View Post
    Will give it a try, my car's oil change is due after approx 1,000kms. Thank you

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    Welcome anytime

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    add extra ground cable between battery negative --to-->body shell --to--> engine 8mm flexible copper cable with crimped lug will solve the problem of 'whining' start - also check the battery Specific gravity refresh if necessary.
    - www.crackwheels.com - A skilled Dictator is much more beneficial to Country......than a Democracy of Ignorant people

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    Quote Originally Posted by capsat View Post
    add extra ground cable between battery negative --to-->body shell --to--> engine 8mm flexible copper cable with crimped lug will solve the problem of 'whining' start - also check the battery Specific gravity refresh if necessary.
    Point noted for grounding wire.

    And by battery specific gravity you mean electrolyte solution?

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    yes you got it right @margallar
    - www.crackwheels.com - A skilled Dictator is much more beneficial to Country......than a Democracy of Ignorant people

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    i can send grounding cable, if you can't DIY

    Lugs will be installedm you will need to install it on battery terminal and engine + body shell
    haters gonna hate, potatoes gonna potate

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    Quote Originally Posted by margallar View Post
    i can send grounding cable, if you can't DIY

    Lugs will be installedm you will need to install it on battery terminal and engine + body shell
    How much?

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    Quote Originally Posted by capsat View Post
    yes you got it right @margallar
    It was on lower level when checked 5,6 days back, than I topped it up near to upper level.

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    Quote Originally Posted by margallar View Post
    i can send grounding cable, if you can't DIY

    Lugs will be installedm you will need to install it on battery terminal and engine + body shell
    I'll ask my electrician to do this job, won't DIY it due to shortage of time. I hope the required 8mm wire and lugs will be easily available in the market ?

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    Quote Originally Posted by akash190 View Post
    How much?

    Sent from my GT-S5301 using PW Forums mobile app
    what car is it?

    I bought some wire to do mine. Will make the kit tomorrow, I will calculate the cost once i see how much wire is needed.

    The wire cost 60rs/ft.I think i bought it too thick
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    Quote Originally Posted by margallar View Post
    what car is it?

    I bought some wire to do mine. Will make the kit tomorrow, I will calculate the cost once i see how much wire is needed.

    The wire cost 60rs/ft. I think i bought it too thick
    Same as salman bhai

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    Quote Originally Posted by capsat View Post
    add extra ground cable between battery negative --to-->body shell --to--> engine 8mm flexible copper cable with crimped lug will solve the problem of 'whining' start - also check the battery Specific gravity refresh if necessary.
    Quote Originally Posted by margallar View Post
    i can send grounding cable, if you can't DIY

    Lugs will be installedm you will need to install it on battery terminal and engine + body shell
    I went to my electrician for this job n he showed me that it has already been done long time ago.

    He also checked the battery and said 'iske cells phool gaye hain' n declared it to be weak.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Salman922 View Post
    Back with new set of problems linked with old issues as well !

    -glow plugs were replaced in 2015 January because original ones were talking little longer then usual to fully heat up, now from the day i got new gear installed cold start problem persists.

    After removing all the glow plugs and checking them individually it was found that all of the 4 were burnt and not working so I got the old OEM ones installed which were bit weak still worked. They started to take nearly 4 glow timers to start a dead cold engine that too on many rotations however when they were taken out they used to start the engine in 1 glow timer and 4,5 rotations that too in winters.

    -last week I got another set of glow plugs installed hoping that cold start issue will be resolved but the glow plugs were again burnt just as I turned the key to switch 'on' where i wait for glow timer. And as i cranked the engine battery acted as it was almost dead and than again came to life after the new glow plugs burnt.

    -point I am trying to link is that my car is not accepting any other glow plugs except for OEM part and it burns it right away.

    -on OEM plugs too it takes 4 glow timers, why ?

    -anyways I bought brand new 4 OEM glow plugs just the same as original ones in shape but the ones came out were 11v and the ones I got now have written 12V on it. Now these have not burnt and still working but are unable to start the cold engine but a slight push will start it always.

    -one more thing is that my engine is reducing oil, like 1L in 700kms approx, I want to get its valve seals changed but no one is ready to do according to Zulfiqar bhai's way so still searching for the one who agrees on it.

    -w.r.t. oil reduction: engine produces light tik tik tik kind of sound when low on oil which increases/decreases along with the rpm and when it's topped up with oil the tik tik sound vanishes.

    P.S. my car's CSD is working, rad has coolant, fans auto, valve clearances checked, battery is AGS gr85 installed 18-20months back, pump done by Cummins pk. Engine runs great and fuel avg is also nice, hot start is perfect.

    Now what am I missing which is making this cold start issue ?

    Mechanics r saying "hum apko pichay 6,7 saal se keh rahay hain k engine kamzor hai lekin ap mantay hi nahi, ab pura beth gaya hai apka engine aur overhaul hoga"

    I don't agree with them and wont be going for overhaul unless I get it compression tested and the person who has agreed to test it's compression for me is out of Karachi and will return after a week or so.
    @Xulfiqar bhai and other experts kindly help.

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    Bump @Xulfiqar bhai.

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    If one or more glow plugs have burned out, are heavily coated with carbon or are not receiving their usual dose of start-up voltage, the engine will become progressively harder to start as temperatures drop, and will idle roughly and produce white smoke in the exhaust for several minutes once it finally starts. If all the glow plugs are burned on the end, you'd better check the injection timing because it is probably over-advanced.

    The glow plugs are powered by a relay and timer that routes voltage to the plugs for the prescribed number of seconds. When the timer runs out, the relay is supposed to turn off the voltage. But relays sometime stick and continue to feed voltage to the glow plugs causing them to burn out.
    Never loose hope in life,every step gives u something.

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    Quote Originally Posted by argtr65 View Post
    If one or more glow plugs have burned out, are heavily coated with carbon or are not receiving their usual dose of start-up voltage, the engine will become progressively harder to start as temperatures drop, and will idle roughly and produce white smoke in the exhaust for several minutes once it finally starts. If all the glow plugs are burned on the end, you'd better check the injection timing because it is probably over-advanced.

    The glow plugs are powered by a relay and timer that routes voltage to the plugs for the prescribed number of seconds. When the timer runs out, the relay is supposed to turn off the voltage. But relays sometime stick and continue to feed voltage to the glow plugs causing them to burn out.
    Regarding glow plugs burned or carbon coating I have just installed new Japanese glow plugs which r working fine. Glow timer is also original working for 12 seconds. And dead cold engine is harder to start or u can say it doesn't start on starter motor irrespective of the ambient temperature however on push start it starts very very easily.

    Important thing to notice is: when a dead cold engine is started on push it doesn't produce any kind of white smoke nor it idles rough at all, it's perfectly normal n smooth once start, however black smoke puff is produced on cold start and the puff increases if I try to start it with starter motor and it doesn't start. If I simply push start it without cranking the engine the black smoke is very minimal. It's something like each starter motor rotation increases black smoke inside the engine, the more rotations it'll take the more bigger the first puff will be and vice versa.

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    Quote Originally Posted by argtr65 View Post
    If one or more glow plugs have burned out, are heavily coated with carbon or are not receiving their usual dose of start-up voltage, the engine will become progressively harder to start as temperatures drop, and will idle roughly and produce white smoke in the exhaust for several minutes once it finally starts. If all the glow plugs are burned on the end, you'd better check the injection timing because it is probably over-advanced.

    The glow plugs are powered by a relay and timer that routes voltage to the plugs for the prescribed number of seconds. When the timer runs out, the relay is supposed to turn off the voltage. But relays sometime stick and continue to feed voltage to the glow plugs causing them to burn out.
    Regarding the injection timing yes I have played with it.. My car's timing was set with dial gauge but then i retarded it n it started to take a long self on hot engine too which wasn't present before so I turned it to full advance thinking that it'll help the cold start but it was of no use so the timing was turned back to normal which is near to dial gauge settings but still not done with dial gauge. It'll be done soon but point is previously when it wasn't done with dial gauge engine used to start on half self on dead cold, now it doesn't.

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    To check if the problem is of battery or not I tried to jump start it with my other car which is xli 2014 having a smaller battery as compared to what's installed with my 2C anyways engine of xli was running so size of battery doesn't matter I think ?

    What happened was as I switched on the rpm of xli fluctuated as it had the load of glow plugs, I gave 4 glow timers n than cranked the engine, it took many rotations that too was in high speed as it was on double battery and started normal with smooth idle and no white smoke from exhaust. I shut it down to let the engine cool down and than I tried it with single glow timer then too engine took almost same rotations to start up.

    What I concluded was if the problem is with battery it should have started on single rotation on jump start but it didn't.

    Glow plugs r working fine that's why single or four times u give it, engine fires on very long self or on push.

    P.S. when all glow plugs were burnt engine didn't fired on jump start no matter what u do, it needed a push n started normal, smooth n easily.

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    One more thing that I noticed was if I pull out the dip stick or take off engine oil cap it produces lots of grey n whitish smoke that after 15-20 seconds of removing the cap it gets difficult for u to breath while standing in front of started engine, I also did the paper test for suction from oil pouring hole n it's not sucking the paper on any rpm nor even letting the paper stabilize on it, it's simply throwing it away and on idle it throws away the cap hard.

    Another thing which my friend pointed out is that as the car is burning oil and I have been topping it up with cheap non branded oil available in the market which might be causing this problem, is it so ? Normally I use delo gold 15-40, shall I switch to 20-50?

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    Now the time has come to get the engine overhaul,because all the symptoms as you described are the indication of a low compression pressure.
    Never loose hope in life,every step gives u something.

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