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Thread: Corolla 88 Engine Swap, Need Guidance & Suggestions

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    Default Corolla 88 Engine Swap, Need Guidance & Suggestions

    I am writing this on someone's behalf, originally the car had a diesel engine but previously it was swapped with 5AFE and now the owner want to swap it with a petrol engine of newer technology. The engines in consideration are:
    1NZ-FE 1.5L of 2010 model (came in premio)
    1ZZ-FE 1.8L of 2006 model (came in premio)
    3ZZ-FE 1.6L of 2006 model (came in altis)

    Can its also possible to swap with the lastest 2ZR-FE or 2ZR-FAE??

    1. Want to know about pre-swap technical details and other information about engine, related parts, and its compatibility with the car?
    2. The hard part of wiring these engines.....can anyone knows who is doing best wiring of these engines (anywhere in Lahore, Pindi, Peshawar, Karachi)?
    3. And the price of these engines in Karachi, Pindi, Peshawar, Lahore?

    Anyone having past experience with these engines will be very helpful.
    Thnaks....

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    Hmm not bad. I thought about it too but I like low end of 7AFE, perfect for in the city driving. I might install auto transmission in futurr.
    Speed costs money, how fast can you afford to go.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Vaqas1 View Post
    Hmm not bad. I thought about it too but I like low end of 7AFE, perfect for in the city driving. I might install auto transmission in futurr.
    It looks like you are very much in favor of auto transmission. Can you share some benefits of auto (CVT) transmission or advantages of auto (CVT) transmission over manual??

    May be I change my mind and go for CVT transmission.........

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    Quote Originally Posted by Vaqas1 View Post
    Hmm not bad. I thought about it too but I like low end of 7AFE, perfect for in the city driving. I might install auto transmission in futurr.
    And what are the other differences in them, like quick change of gear, which transmission will reach at top speed early, which will have quick/more pick, etc but I think that there are no gears in CVT, only pulleys.

    If you give detail info about these two transmissions, it would be very helpful.

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    Quote Originally Posted by hash4u View Post
    Vaqas bro agree with u
    People with auto cvt axio claim to get 14 in city
    Hw r u finding so many manual ecu's?curious
    Everyone is saying to go for CVT..........but WHY?

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    Quote Originally Posted by haroon.virk View Post
    Everyone is saying to go for CVT..........but WHY?
    Ease of drive bro
    With very good mileage remaining at its place( who would say no to that?)

    But i recall my friends bro blew his axio's cvt gear n it cost him ALOT to replace .

    If they r giving engine in 70k....they might even ask 1 lac for the cvt gear :p
    Life is short and very unpredictable just like a Quarter mile .....

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    You are right but it takes the control of your car from yourself.
    CVT gives about 5-10 % more fuel average.

    There is a price difference of about 25-30k between manual and CVT.

    Tell me one thing, if I swap engine with CVT transmission and later for certain reasons I change my mind and want to go for manual. So is it easy to change the transmission as we only have to change the transmission gear & its ECU? Am I right or there are other things which should also be changed?

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    Quote Originally Posted by haroon.virk View Post
    Everyone is saying to go for CVT..........but WHY?
    Don't go for CVT. Its more efficient compared to auto gearbox but not as efficient as manual plus CVT quite fragile if you drive hard CVT is a big no

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    Quote Originally Posted by Owais_Yunus View Post
    What I was asking was, were the manual transmissions that were already present in the cars used or the xli/gli ones? Because in the amount that you mentioned, its not quite possible to get the xli's transmission since it alone costs around 30k. If the already present transmissions were used, they would have installed adapter plates to mate the transmission to the engine which often doest go well and
    produces vibration at certain speeds/rpms.

    2E is less powerful compared to the 2nz-fe but the 4efe is more powerful and. 2nzfe lacks a little on the low end torque compared to the 4efe and when used in a heavy car, it would mean that you'll need to keep the rpms higher when accelerating. Basically, there is a misconception that smaller engines are ALWAYS more fuel efficient. Often, bigger engines, due to better power to weight ratio, end up being more fuel efficient than the smaller ones as they dont have to work too hard to pull the weight of the vehicle compared to the smaller engine. As per my experience, when my father's corolla had a 2nz-fe in it (the same one thats in my charade right now) it would give 12-13km/l within city. Once the 1nz-fe was swapped into it, it jump up to around 14-15km/l with ac. That said, if you commute involves ALOT of idling and slow moving, you would be better off with the 2nz-fe.

    Yes, the error codes can be drawn from the check engine light. You'll need to short out the TE1 and E1 wires in the ecu or in the DLC if its connected. DLC stands for Data Link Connector which is used to connect the scanner to the car. It is part of the body wiring and needs to be connected when doing a swap. Chances are, it isnt connected by the electrician. Here's what it looks like,

    Corolla 88 Engine Swap, Need Guidance & Suggestions - VCHZGw4
    Actually it took 4 days to complete swap on these two cars and I was not completely present throughout these 4 days, that's why I have to confirm certain things.

    Old transmission is not used, transmission is already present with the new engine so doesn't know either its xli/gli or something else. But compressor is of XLI and they are refusing to give XLI compressor by saying that it costs about 10k. There is no vibration at any speed or rpms.

    I completely agree with your explanation and there is no more misconception in my mind.

    You are right, I didn't find any DLC port. You mean to say that it is present with the wiring and it just need to be connected? If DLC is connected then there is no need to draw errors from engine check light, just connect DLC to a scanner to find errors? Am I right?

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    Quote Originally Posted by SER_GTR View Post
    Under Dash As Mentioned In Pics...

    This Is The 1st Thing You Need To Connect When Swapping A Newer OBD-II Type Motor To Take Advantage Of What It Can Do...

    Without OBD-II DLC...How You Are Gonna Take Advantage Of Its Connectivity And Ease Of Finding Error Codes ??
    Will keep in mind about DLC when doing next swap in Corolla 90.

    1.8 Altis model 2005, I want to know that either this model came with Japan assembled engine or locally assembled engine?

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    Quote Originally Posted by SER_GTR View Post
    TE1-E1 Is For ECU With OBD-O/1

    In OBD-II ..You Might Need To Short Specific Terminal...They Are Not MArked As TE1-E1 I Guess In OBD-II

    It Varies ..You Need To Make It Sure From Service Or Repair Manual....!

    Its Pin No 4 And 14 In Many Toyota Cases Depending On DLC Type Also....!

    If DLC Is Not Connected Then 1st You Need To Carefully Connect It In Order To Connect Any OBD-II Scanner
    DLC is not connected, how to connect it??

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    Quote Originally Posted by haroon.virk View Post
    You are right but it takes the control of your car from yourself.
    CVT gives about 5-10 % more fuel average.

    There is a price difference of about 25-30k between manual and CVT.

    Tell me one thing, if I swap engine with CVT transmission and later for certain reasons I change my mind and want to go for manual. So is it easy to change the transmission as we only have to change the transmission gear & its ECU? Am I right or there are other things which should also be changed?
    yes only gear change and ecu change

    can you please take a quotation for me ?
    i have 94xe with 2e engine.....everything stock

    1NZ-FE 1.5L + CVT

    Thanks !
    Life is short and very unpredictable just like a Quarter mile .....

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    Quote Originally Posted by hash4u View Post
    yes only gear change and ecu change

    can you please take a quotation for me ?
    i have 94xe with 2e engine.....everything stock

    1NZ-FE 1.5L + CVT

    Thanks !
    Yes I will but after one week when we swap Corolla 90 because it also has 2E engine, so you get an accurate quotation. May be I give you the contact number of the person who deals in engine, I have his visiting card somewhere.

    For rough estimate the Corolla 94 in which we did swap was originally has a 2C engine and we have to pay 56k along with the old diesel engine. And for CVT add another 25 to 30k.

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    Quote Originally Posted by hash4u View Post
    Ease of drive bro
    With very good mileage remaining at its place( who would say no to that?)

    But i recall my friends bro blew his axio's cvt gear n it cost him ALOT to replace .

    If they r giving engine in 70k....they might even ask 1 lac for the cvt gear :p
    What are the other differences in manual & CVT, like quick shift of gear, which will have more pick or more quick off the line, which transmission will reach at top speed early,?

    Which is more fun to drive.............manual or CVT??

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    Quote Originally Posted by haroon.virk View Post
    What are the other differences in manual & CVT, like quick shift of gear, which will have more pick or more quick off the line, which transmission will reach at top speed early,?

    Which is more fun to drive.............manual or CVT??
    for all ur questions Manual is the answer

    in auto gear category cvt are more fuel efficient. people pick auto for peace of mind while driving in city traffic
    Life is short and very unpredictable just like a Quarter mile .....

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    Quote Originally Posted by saboor73 View Post
    Don't go for CVT. Its more efficient compared to auto gearbox but not as efficient as manual plus CVT quite fragile if you drive hard CVT is a big no
    But some members are saying that CVT is more fuel efficient, and also on net I read that CVT is more fuel efficient as compared to manual and somewhere its written that CVT is almost as efficient as manual..........and now I am confused which way to go?

    You are right about CVT being fragile. Also a CVT transmission has less life as compared to manual and it's expensive to replace.

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    Quote Originally Posted by saboor73 View Post
    Don't go for CVT. Its more efficient compared to auto gearbox but not as efficient as manual plus CVT quite fragile if you drive hard CVT is a big no
    I drive very hard, I am used to rev the engine high before changing gear but I drive very less. Mostly my father use to drive the car and he drives very soft.

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    Yes, its done the same way I said it would've been done. The wiring, intake manifold, ecu and throttle body have been replaced with the earlier gen 1nz-fe. The pinouts / wiring diagram that I shared WILL work with it. Also, do move the power steering bottle away from the exhaust manifold or it will be toast very soon. The heat from the exhaust would also heat up the oil in it and would cause the rack to run hot, increasing the wear on it.

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    Dandaaa SHIFT Is Way To GO....!!

    CVT's are good when you are Above 50 With More Money As Less Stamina !
    TOYOTA Sprinter 86- AE80 DOHC 20v'D TOYOTA Corolla 98- AE101 4AFE 16v

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    Quote Originally Posted by haroon.virk View Post
    Actually it took 4 days to complete swap on these two cars and I was not completely present throughout these 4 days, that's why I have to confirm certain things.

    Old transmission is not used, transmission is already present with the new engine so doesn't know either its xli/gli or something else. But compressor is of XLI and they are refusing to give XLI compressor by saying that it costs about 10k. There is no vibration at any speed or rpms.

    I completely agree with your explanation and there is no more misconception in my mind.

    You are right, I didn't find any DLC port. You mean to say that it is present with the wiring and it just need to be connected? If DLC is connected then there is no need to draw errors from engine check light, just connect DLC to a scanner to find errors? Am I right?
    Yes, the compressor that comes in Xli is quite expensive. Alternatively, Toyota Duet's compressor is quite commonly used with these engines. I'm using the same compressor in my Charade without any issues Alhamdulillah.

    The DLC port comes with the body wiring and not the engine wiring. You'll need to scavenge through the front cuts with their dashboards intact and then connect the port to the ecu. Here's the pinout for the DLC

    Corolla 88 Engine Swap, Need Guidance & Suggestions - mHMm2AP

    And yes, once the DLC is connected properly, you can use a scanner to draw codes.

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    @SER_GTR @Owais_Yunus

    Before going for swap I want to get rid of three main problems.

    1. Road Grip
    2. Steering Wheel Vibration
    3. Fuel Gauge

    1. This is the most important issue as there is no road grip. At normal or high speeds when you try to make a certain quick turn (cut maarna) then it feels like the car will lift off the road and gonna roll over and it is a very scary moment.

    I don't know what is the main cause of this problem, but I think the shock absorbers are the main culprit because when passing over a jump you have to be very very slow otherwise the car will bounce and hit the jump. Also the shock absorbers are soft and not as stiff as they should have to be.

    In addition to shock absorbers, I think the upper and lower control arm bushes are also contributing a major part to this problem. Might be there would be any other issue of having no road grip.

    2. At slow speed there is no vibration in steering wheel, but at a speed of about 90 km/h the vibration in steering wheel starts and as speed increases, vibration also increases in steering wheel but at a slow pace. It might be due to wheel balancing or power steering rack (kangi) but I have no idea about it.

    3. The fuel gauge is not working properly nor its reserve fuel sensor light. Fuel gauge is also showing more fuel but in actual the fuel is less. While driving the gauge shows different value as compared to when the car is at rest. for example while driving the gauge shows half tank of fuel and when the vehicle is stand still then after some time the gauge shows quarter tank of fuel.

    Please give your guidance in these problems.
    Thanks......

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