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Thread: Best engine oil for Toyota Corolla Altis Grande

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    Default Best engine oil for Toyota Corolla Altis Grande

    I have booked a new Corolla altis grande cvt. I want to know that which oil should I be putting in for the first time. I want to use mobil-1 5w-50 this time, but I need expert advice on it.


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    Quote Originally Posted by haseeb.basharat View Post
    First, let me know how to share photos here than I will be able to do that 
    haha Just whatsapp me on 0333-7442501 :p will be a lot easier
    Toyota Belta 2007 1.0 ~~Toyota Corolla Gli 2013 1.3 ~~Toyota Corolla Grande 2016 1.8

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    Quote Originally Posted by Thinking View Post
    brother with the traffic (severe traffic jams + heat + air conditioner with specially bigger condensor in PK corolla ) and road conditions in pakistan, higher viscosity just looks to me a more efficient option considering no major impact on milage.

    considering the factors i would say a safer viscosity would be better also when the cost difference is not there between 5w-30 synthetic and 5w-50 synthetic.

    I regularly see thousands upon thousands of cars being driven in traffic jams, desert highways (I live in texas) and A/C permanently running and as long as the correct specced oil is used - no issues at all.

    e.g. - I see thousands of crown vics running A/C - running in city/highway - stuck in traffic - their engines take 5w20 and their odometers read 200,000 miles - no issues at all. - I see corollas here (1ZZ-FE) average odometer reading 250,000 miles - running cheap 5w30 oil - same traffic, same insane temperature - texas heat can reach into 48C in the summer.

    Using a thick oil will not give you any protection - infact it will be of lesser film strength trying to get into tighter clearances.

    All in all - I see that you have been blinded by a brigade of high number sounding oils - and there is nothing that can change your opinion - so its pretty useless, After all its your money and your car - you are free to put dalda ghee in the engine and run it.

    Being a forum I posted from my own experience of servicing thousands of such cars.



    btw - I lived in Karachi, dont try to explain to me about traffic, heat, climate etc..
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by haseeb.basharat View Post
    @Maxud1
    I have recently installed 17inchers 215/45 in my gli. Sorry, but I will switch my new car's rims with my gli
    its okay @haseeb.basharat I've contacted @makhdoom123 lets see if we reach upon a good deal once he acquires a new set of rims

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    Quote Originally Posted by Thinking View Post
    brother with the traffic (severe traffic jams + heat + air conditioner with specially bigger condensor in PK corolla ) and road conditions in pakistan, higher viscosity just looks to me a more efficient option considering no major impact on milage.

    considering the factors i would say a safer viscosity would be better also when the cost difference is not there between 5w-30 synthetic and 5w-50 synthetic.
    by bigger condenser what do you mean? my mercedes e55 holds around 1000gm refrigerant and has giant ac system compared to this bigger condensor corolla. It can freeze cabin under 50secs in heat of 48C so am i wrong if i use 0W40, should i use 5W50 or 10w60 according to your formula higher viscosity is efficient option, imagine supercharged 5.5L V8 476PS. My car is specced to use 0W40 so i am using 0W40 and my car has 265000kms yes you read it correct.
    crown vics are specced to run 5W20 on their filler caps so they run with 5W20 flawlessly for years and years. Its not uncommon to see crown vics having more then 500k kms. but considering this little econo box sedan is specced with 0W20, then one should use 0W30 or 5W30 if 0W20 is not available.
    Your ego is writing cheques, your body can't cash.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ahmedraja1996 View Post
    by bigger condenser what do you mean? my mercedes e55 holds around 1000gm refrigerant and has giant ac system compared to this bigger condensor corolla. It can freeze cabin under 50secs in heat of 48C so am i wrong if i use 0W40, should i use 5W50 or 10w60 according to your formula higher viscosity is efficient option, imagine supercharged 5.5L V8 476PS. My car is specced to use 0W40 so i am using 0W40 and my car has 265000kms yes you read it correct.
    crown vics are specced to run 5W20 on their filler caps so they run with 5W20 flawlessly for years and years. Its not uncommon to see crown vics having more then 500k kms. but considering this little econo box sedan is specced with 0W20, then one should use 0W30 or 5W30 if 0W20 is not available.

    The pizza oven like engine room temperatures should be speccing something like a SAE 100 oil. zero chalees mobil 1 bohot patla hai bhai - tees chalees set mota hail hai
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    @Xulfiqar bhai.
    Final btao.
    Ow40 mobil-1 or that toyota oil I showed you which is 5w-30.
    I have no issues if oil is expensive or not.
    All I want is the best protection for my engine.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    I regularly see thousands upon thousands of cars being driven in traffic jams, desert highways (I live in texas) and A/C permanently running and as long as the correct specced oil is used - no issues at all.

    e.g. - I see thousands of crown vics running A/C - running in city/highway - stuck in traffic - their engines take 5w20 and their odometers read 200,000 miles - no issues at all. - I see corollas here (1ZZ-FE) average odometer reading 250,000 miles - running cheap 5w30 oil - same traffic, same insane temperature - texas heat can reach into 48C in the summer.

    Using a thick oil will not give you any protection - infact it will be of lesser film strength trying to get into tighter clearances.

    All in all - I see that you have been blinded by a brigade of high number sounding oils - and there is nothing that can change your opinion - so its pretty useless, After all its your money and your car - you are free to put dalda ghee in the engine and run it.

    Being a forum I posted from my own experience of servicing thousands of such cars.



    btw - I lived in Karachi, dont try to explain to me about traffic, heat, climate etc..

    seriously we are here to learn and specially i am for sure.

    whats with this sarcasm in every reply that you give to any of us. understandibly u have got better knowledge than most of us however it would be appropriate if you start giving us due respect too. we live in a 3rd world where as far as i remember only oil grade available 10 years back was 20w-50.

    now to the point please answer the queries in line below

    1- my 2SZ-FE vitz has a sticker in the bonnet suggesting a 0W-20 oil grade. i couldnt find one however opted for 5w-20 ZIC A+. i experienced loss of power and increased knocking. switched to 5W-50 micking max premium and knocking is 95% gone on the same fuel. i didn't change the fuel using plain super (87 RON) for PSO company outlet. Car power has restored infact improved dramatically. i am getting 14 KM/L consistently in city these days. what could be the reason?

    2- my margalla G13B is 285K driven without any repairs to the engine. i have used Zic A+ 5W-20 for atleast 3-4 years consistently and change interval was around 3K KMs because i used to experience faster cooling fan deployment of radiator after that. i switched to Micking 10W-40 Max Super 2 years back now change interval has increased to 5K KMs and car pickup and milage has remained comparable (around 11 KM/L). so to me in this scenario 10W-40 makes a much better sense.

    3- if money and milage is not in question (since there is hardly 300-600 Rs difference in any good 5W-30 and 5W-50 oil) which oil is better out right?

    4- why top of the line oils of all manufacturers are 5W-50 grade i.e. Micking Max Premium, Mobil 1, Kixx G1 and Petronas. Also top of the line for shell and caltex are of higher viscosity 5W-40 and not 5W-30.

    there is no pun intended. simple understanding and expect to the point answers instead of sarcastic ones.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Thinking View Post
    seriously we are here to learn and specially i am for sure.

    whats with this sarcasm in every reply that you give to any of us. understandibly u have got better knowledge than most of us however it would be appropriate if you start giving us due respect too. we live in a 3rd world where as far as i remember only oil grade available 10 years back was 20w-50.

    now to the point please answer the queries in line below

    1- my 2SZ-FE vitz has a sticker in the bonnet suggesting a 0W-20 oil grade. i couldnt find one however opted for 5w-20 ZIC A+. i experienced loss of power and increased knocking. switched to 5W-50 micking max premium and knocking is 95% gone on the same fuel. i didn't change the fuel using plain super (87 RON) for PSO company outlet. Car power has restored infact improved dramatically. i am getting 14 KM/L consistently in city these days. what could be the reason?

    2- my margalla G13B is 285K driven without any repairs to the engine. i have used Zic A+ 5W-20 for atleast 3-4 years consistently and change interval was around 3K KMs because i used to experience faster cooling fan deployment of radiator after that. i switched to Micking 10W-40 Max Super 2 years back now change interval has increased to 5K KMs and car pickup and milage has remained comparable (around 11 KM/L). so to me in this scenario 10W-40 makes a much better sense.

    3- if money and milage is not in question (since there is hardly 300-600 Rs difference in any good 5W-30 and 5W-50 oil) which oil is better out right?

    4- why top of the line oils of all manufacturers are 5W-50 grade i.e. Micking Max Premium, Mobil 1, Kixx G1 and Petronas. Also top of the line for shell and caltex are of higher viscosity 5W-40 and not 5W-30.

    there is no pun intended. simple understanding and expect to the point answers instead of sarcastic ones.
    Where was the sarcasm?


    btw - 10 years ago you could walk into any lube shop in Karachi and buy a 5w30 easily - it was the ZIC ke patla wala oil. Problem was that no-one bought it because "patla hai - engine sound maarta hai"


    using a thick oil actually is hurting your engine, to understand it you will have to understand how an engine oil system works, what happens to oil in the bearing surfaces etc. Your presented yardstick is "my engine fan didnt work that long and Im not getting knocking from using this oil"

    I simply cannot take this discussion further because the yardstick doesnt make sense.

    The reason the top of the line oils in every brand are of higher viscosity "spread" is because they are expensive to blend - blending an oil to have a 5W20 viscosity is quite a bit cheaper than blending a 5W60 - that goes into grp IV base stocks and some unique add packs. - very expensive - such oils usually are specced in higher range of engines - not sell by the dozen econocars.

    I still fail to understand why would anyone want to waste extra money on running their car - lets take my mercedes - I buy its oils when they are cheap - its maximum oil change interval is about 24,000 kms, 8 litres of expensive euro blend 5w40 or 0W40 oil - Im sure as shine not going to dump it every 5000 kms - Im going to make sure I get my maximum return from it.

    I can choose to run it on regular diesel 15w40 oil and dump it every 5000 kms, wont be economical would it?

    OTOH I have a camry - I put in dino juice API SN 5w30 - change every 5000 kms - cheap bought in 20 litre drums (for my other cars and also side business of servicing cars)

    using the 5w40 in the camry usually results in poor mileage. So why waste money, Toyota spec 5w30, API SL for it - Im putting 5W30 SN oil - it works nice. same with my chevy, nissan and mazda too. (mazda spec 5w20)
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    Where was the sarcasm?


    btw - 10 years ago you could walk into any lube shop in Karachi and buy a 5w30 easily - it was the ZIC ke patla wala oil. Problem was that no-one bought it because "patla hai - engine sound maarta hai"


    using a thick oil actually is hurting your engine, to understand it you will have to understand how an engine oil system works, what happens to oil in the bearing surfaces etc. Your presented yardstick is "my engine fan didnt work that long and Im not getting knocking from using this oil"

    I simply cannot take this discussion further because the yardstick doesnt make sense.
    ok. .

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    patla haail hai enjunn farig ho jae ga, a guy was pouring castrol 10w40 in his cultus and mechanic came and said yeh haail bekar hai enjun ka head awaz kare ga fir blow mare ga, havaleene dalo laal wala doesn't even know whats with red in it anyone can pour rooh afza in that havaleene and those goofs would pour recklessly into any car. i have seen thousands of people using incorrect oil for their cars. they just fancy by the oil bottle colour shell lal dabba havaleen laal haail zic paani hai. hahaha these terms are ridiculous. and sir i guess your thermoswitch is smoking or what it turns on with the viscosity of oil used.
    Your ego is writing cheques, your body can't cash.

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    Quote Originally Posted by haseeb.basharat View Post
    @Xulfiqar bhai.
    Final btao.
    Ow40 mobil-1 or that toyota oil I showed you which is 5w-30.
    I have no issues if oil is expensive or not.
    All I want is the best protection for my engine.
    that toyota oil is ok to use. Mobil1 0W40 is a waste of money in your car - it wont even be past its cleaning stage at 4000 kms/
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    Where was the sarcasm?


    btw - 10 years ago you could walk into any lube shop in Karachi and buy a 5w30 easily - it was the ZIC ke patla wala oil. Problem was that no-one bought it because "patla hai - engine sound maarta hai"


    using a thick oil actually is hurting your engine, to understand it you will have to understand how an engine oil system works, what happens to oil in the bearing surfaces etc. Your presented yardstick is "my engine fan didnt work that long and Im not getting knocking from using this oil"

    I simply cannot take this discussion further because the yardstick doesnt make sense.

    The reason the top of the line oils in every brand are of higher viscosity "spread" is because they are expensive to blend - blending an oil to have a 5W20 viscosity is quite a bit cheaper than blending a 5W60 - that goes into grp IV base stocks and some unique add packs. - very expensive - such oils usually are specced in higher range of engines - not sell by the dozen econocars.

    I still fail to understand why would anyone want to waste extra money on running their car - lets take my mercedes - I buy its oils when they are cheap - its maximum oil change interval is about 24,000 kms, 8 litres of expensive euro blend 5w40 or 0W40 oil - Im sure as shine not going to dump it every 5000 kms - Im going to make sure I get my maximum return from it.

    I can choose to run it on regular diesel 15w40 oil and dump it every 5000 kms, wont be economical would it?

    OTOH I have a camry - I put in dino juice API SN 5w30 - change every 5000 kms - cheap bought in 20 litre drums (for my other cars and also side business of servicing cars)

    using the 5w40 in the camry usually results in poor mileage. So why waste money, Toyota spec 5w30, API SL for it - Im putting 5W30 SN oil - it works nice. same with my chevy, nissan and mazda too. (mazda spec 5w20)
    Sir jee yeh baat kuch samajh nahi aai

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    @Xulfiqar bhai
    Alright, if i put mobil1 0w40 than I will obviously be changing it at 10-15000km considering pakistan's enviornment, and If I put Toyota's one than I will be changing it at 6000kms.
    Don't you think mobil 1 will be a better choice?

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    Quote Originally Posted by ahmedraja1996 View Post
    patla haail hai enjunn farig ho jae ga, a guy was pouring castrol 10w40 in his cultus and mechanic came and said yeh haail bekar hai enjun ka head awaz kare ga fir blow mare ga, havaleene dalo laal wala doesn't even know whats with red in it anyone can pour rooh afza in that havaleene and those goofs would pour recklessly into any car. i have seen thousands of people using incorrect oil for their cars. they just fancy by the oil bottle colour shell lal dabba havaleen laal haail zic paani hai. hahaha these terms are ridiculous. and sir i guess your thermoswitch is smoking or what it turns on with the viscosity of oil used.
    probably in this case i am lucky to have the best mechanics with whom i interact in ISB. as per them the less thick oils (usually synthetics) are always better.

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    Quote Originally Posted by saboor73 View Post
    Sir jee yeh baat kuch samajh nahi aai
    yahan API SL oil nahi bikta abb
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    yahan API SL oil nahi bikta abb
    WooooooooW.
    Wadday engine tay waddiyan gallan 😆

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    Quote Originally Posted by haseeb.basharat View Post
    @Xulfiqar bhai
    Alright, if i put mobil1 0w40 than I will obviously be changing it at 10-15000km considering pakistan's enviornment, and If I put Toyota's one than I will be changing it at 6000kms.
    Don't you think mobil 1 will be a better choice?
    It can go that long, even longer if you frequently do longer trips. You can probably do 10k+ km on the Toyota oil; Mobil 1 is not even needed for such a pedestrian interval. The problem lies with the oil filters available locally. Toyota Indus recommends a 5k km interval for their oil filters; there is a high probability that the filter will be gone long before 10k km. There are a couple of options:

    1 - change the filter every 5k km; you lose whatever oil was in the filter (a cup maybe?). Its also an unnecessary increase in vehicle maintenance/downtime.
    2 - get filters better than the locally available Toyota/Guard filters (don't even consider Leppon). As I mentioned earlier consider getting a case of MANN filters. The upfront cost is quite hefty, but they are actually quite cheap per filter, and a case will last your car's lifetime.

    Other, rarer options are Wix/Napa, ACDelco/Champ Labs, and Purolator (the higher end stuff). You can research more brands at the bobistheoilguy forums; in fact you can research everything there is to research about automotive fluid/lubrication over there. For one thing, I learned that a 16k km interval is possible on an ES Civic running on dino Havoline 5w-20; the oil was still within spec, but just barely so.
    _ 22 km/l from '03 VTi automatic, with plenty of room for improvement
    _ How to hypermile: http://www.cleanmpg.com/community/index.php?threads/1510/

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    Quote Originally Posted by haseeb.basharat View Post
    WooooooooW.
    Wadday engine tay waddiyan gallan 
    toyota 2AZ-FE = wadda engine?

    from what angle?
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    toyota 2AZ-FE = wadda engine?

    from what angle?
    Nae nae. Crown Victoria's V8 😜

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    ahmed2396's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by haseeb.basharat View Post
    Nae nae. Crown Victoria's V8 
    crown vics v8 is old design and sluggish v8 but very robust motor 2V ford modular
    Your ego is writing cheques, your body can't cash.

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