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Thread: Cultus engine and body overhaul and rebuild

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    Exclamation Cultus engine and body overhaul and rebuild

    helo friends , i am updating this thread as now its all complete , just want to show here what you can see in this thread as its a huge list so i am simly writing whats not in this thread ,,,,,,, , you can see every thing related to cultus except engine overhaulling , fuel tank/pump and some wiring related stuff , rest all you can get here ,
    the PDF file of this thread is contributed by mirzahadi, UBajwa and mazamwarraich and you can down load it from here
    http://www.mediafire.com/view/?z59tlxj278xv8ef

    thanks


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    Beautiful creation nd sharing,,,,,,,,,
    Search Rent Karachi on Facebook and Like it Please

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    [QUOTE=agoodfriend;3255811]
    Quote Originally Posted by shazaryab View Post

    have you saved some pic while serice ?,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,let me seach the instruction manual of landiranzo kit
    There were pics taken, but could find time to post,later I have to delete them to empty some space in Mobile SD card. Manual will be help full.

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    Default plug specification and gap

    Quote Originally Posted by agoodfriend View Post
    some one conform that from service manual ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,i am also looking for that , ,,,,,,,,,,,,,
    Cultus engine and body overhaul and rebuild -376968

    Cultus engine and body overhaul and rebuild -376969

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    [QUOTE=shazaryab;3258370]
    Quote Originally Posted by agoodfriend View Post

    There were pics taken, but could find time to post,later I have to delete them to empty some space in Mobile SD card. Manual will be help full.
    have you check the pic in which i pointed that poing G (i guess) ,,,,,,,,,,,that small solenoid controls the gas at idle,,,,,,,,,,,,,although it wont look adjustable but still you can do that,,,,,,,,,,,,,further more i will share when i will open my car regulator,,,,,,,,,,,,,,it dont have this issue but there is some minor leak in it,,,,,,,,,,,,

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    Quote Originally Posted by mazamwarraich View Post
    thanks dear

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    Quote Originally Posted by dms664 View Post
    after how many kms or time period,brake fluid should be changed? for alto n for corolla 1.3 2010

    you have to change the brake oil of cultus after 30,000 Km,,,,,,,,no idea about corolla,,,,,,,,,,,,but i am sure no one here follow that,,,,,,,,

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    Quote Originally Posted by moonraider View Post
    ASA goodfriend..
    im a regular reader..indeed u are a gifted person MashaAllah
    i need some guidance regarding a prob (cultus 06 carby,24k driven,mostly on petrol,9k on aftermarket cng).. which may also be of some help to others.need help with following
    1. Setting idle rpm
    a. car idle when parked (~400 on cng with blower on ~500) on petrol >1000
    b. car running change to neutral (1.5 to 2 just about to shut with blower on ~300)
    c. headlights on radiator fan on it drops 150
    d. another thing when i am driving at high speeds may be around 80~100 and
    i put car to neutral the rpm suddenly drops to near 2-2.5 and starts rattling or engine stops also sometimes but as the speed reduces the rpm self adjusts to around ~4
    i have fiddled with cng kit idle adjustment but it doesnt help..please guide how to set this.cng wala saying some butterfly problem..!! as my car is like new runs fine, gr8 mileage,i dont want to ruin it..

    2. Layman's guide to carb setting through screws etc.. (opening it is too complex ive seen ur thread) (pictorial help will be more than appreciated)

    BIG THANKS IN ADVANCE
    JazakAllah
    ok dear will reply soon,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,right now shaken because of AC overhaulling,,,,,,,,,,,,there is some minor leak in system and i cant able to detect it,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,no refrigerant dye for leak test is availabe,,,,,,,,,,,,,,really shaken because of that,,,,,,,,,,,

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    its ok bro..
    waiting for your reply.. hope u find a quick solution to the issue..
    try contacting any intelligent fridge repair person..may b that will help
    thanks in advance
    AH
    NA cultus 06;stock g10 all motor;faulaadi pistons;half blocked air intake;saada air filter;NGK copper plugs;not so Free Flow exhaust & piping;50kg compressed CH3..want more??

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    [QUOTE=agoodfriend;3259010][QUOTE=shazaryab;3258370]

    have you check the pic in which i pointed that poing G (i guess) ,,,,,,,,,,,that small solenoid controls the gas at idle,,,,,,,,,,,,,although it wont look adjustable but still you can do that

    There are two solenoids in the kit, one main inlet and otter output,there is nothing in them to adjust only one spring which keeps them closed when inactive.I the third stage there is a screw which limits the movement of diaphragm.I did not touch it because of no knowledge of consequence.

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    [QUOTE=shazaryab;3259877][QUOTE=agoodfriend;3259010]
    Quote Originally Posted by shazaryab View Post

    have you check the pic in which i pointed that poing G (i guess) ,,,,,,,,,,,that small solenoid controls the gas at idle,,,,,,,,,,,,,although it wont look adjustable but still you can do that

    There are two solenoids in the kit, one main inlet and otter output,there is nothing in them to adjust only one spring which keeps them closed when inactive.I the third stage there is a screw which limits the movement of diaphragm.I did not touch it because of no knowledge of consequence.
    ok wait few days ,,,,,,,,,,,,i have a leak problem in my regulator (CN04) , i will post that when i gave a service to it

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    Quote Originally Posted by moonraider View Post
    ASA goodfriend..

    i need some guidance regarding a prob (cultus 06 carby,24k driven,mostly on petrol,9k on aftermarket cng).. which may also be of some help to others.need help with following,,,,,,,,,,,,06 cultus and just 24 K driven

    1. Setting idle rpm ,,,,,,,,,,,,always first adjust the RMP on petrol and then on gas ,,,,,,,,,,,you are using a after market CNG so you have to block the air filter inlet,,,,,,,,,,,almost half of the passage must be blocked with solution tape ,,,,,,,,,,,check my previous post for that ,,,,,,,,,,,,after that first adjust the RMP on petrol by a small screw under the air filter left side , and then shift it on gas and adjust the RMP through a small screw on gas kit ,,,,,,,,turing clock wise mean reducing RPM and vise vers,,,,,,,,,,,to adjust properally you have to first tight that nut and then lose it slowly till you get a desired RPM ,,,,,,,,,,,,,keey one hand on acclerator lever on carb so that engine wont die,,,,,,,,,,,,,
    a. car idle when parked
    z (~400 on cng with blower on ~500) on petrol >1000 ,,,,,,,,,,,it will be ok when you adjust the RPM on CNG ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,by blower you mean AC On ?
    b. car running change to neutral (1.5 to 2 just about to shut with blower on ~300),,,,,,,,,,,,dont got that point ..............
    c. headlights on radiator fan on it drops 150,,,,,,,,,,,,,does add a very significant load on the alternator which will normally show up in lower idle rpms.
    d. another thing when i am driving at high speeds may be around 80~100 and
    i put car to neutral the rpm suddenly drops to near 2-2.5 and starts rattling or engine stops also sometimes but as the speed reduces the rpm self adjusts to around ~4,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,it happens on gas or petrol,,,,,,,,,,,,,if happens on petrol then adjust the fuel mixture,,,,,,,,,,,,after adjusting idle on petrol ,,,,,,,a simple way to adjust is to start lose the mixture till you feel some increase in RPM (take some help from another guy who sits on driving seat and monitor the RMP),,,,,,,,,,,,at tha point stop further opening and start closing slowly ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,stop again when you feel some decrease in RPM,,,,,,,,,,,,,,at that point you have to lose the idle mixture about 1/4 turn,,,,,,,,,,,,,thats not an 100% acurate but still useful way to adjust ,,,,,,,,,,an experence person can easily adjust with this way,,,,,,,,,,,,,
    i have fiddled with cng kit idle adjustment but it doesnt help..please guide how to set this.cng wala saying some butterfly problem..!! as my car is like new runs fine, gr8 mileage,i dont want to ruin it..

    2. Layman's guide to carb setting through screws etc.. (opening it is too complex ive seen ur thread) (pictorial help will be more than appreciated)

    BIG THANKS IN ADVANCE
    JazakAllah

    i hope it works

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    hi dear i've installed 4, 4 leds in my cultus headlight please check it out. Furthur i need ur guidness to install door switch on back doors as u know paksuzuki didnt install it. How much it will cost me for orignal ones. Thanks

    Cultus engine and body overhaul and rebuild -1026329

    Cultus engine and body overhaul and rebuild -1026330Cultus engine and body overhaul and rebuild -377829

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    Quote Originally Posted by amansoor View Post
    hi dear i've installed 4, 4 leds in my cultus headlight please check it out. Furthur i need ur guidness to install door switch on back doors as u know paksuzuki didnt install it. How much it will cost me for orignal ones. Thanks



    thats nice ,,,,,,,,,,,but i have installed 8 LED per light ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,there is a option for the door jamb switch in rear doors,,,,,,,,,,,,i try to find the original switches but fails,,,,,,,,,,local one with very poor quality are availabe in 50 Rs so thats why i postpone this plan,,,,,,,,,,,,,you need a hole saw of same dia as that of the jamb switch,,,,,,,,,,,wires will run inside the foot board,,,,,,,,,,,,,remove carpet from there and you will see lot of holes covered with caps,,,,,,,,,,,,,,for wiring you have to connect both the rear jamb switches with the left door jamb switch,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,dont connect them with driving side door , other wise the ignition key beaper will kick on when rear doors will be opened,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
    Cultus engine and body overhaul and rebuild -377894

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    Quote Originally Posted by agoodfriend View Post
    thats nice ,,,,,,,,,,,but i have installed 8 LED per light ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,there is a option for the door jamb switch in rear doors,,,,,,,,,,,,i try to find the original switches but fails,,,,,,,,,,local one with very poor quality are availabe in 50 Rs so thats why i postpone this plan,,,,,,,,,,,,,you need a hole saw of same dia as that of the jamb switch,,,,,,,,,,,wires will run inside the foot board,,,,,,,,,,,,,remove carpet from there and you will see lot of holes covered with caps,,,,,,,,,,,,,,for wiring you have to connect both the rear jamb switches with the left door jamb switch,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,dont connect them with driving side door , other wise the ignition key beaper will kick on when rear doors will be opened,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
    Cultus engine and body overhaul and rebuild - 377894
    Thanks alot i'll try to search orignal jamb switch from faisalabad market

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    Brother you really are a gurru.
    Your work done here is really inspirational.
    I m a silent member of pw but your thread made me appreciate your efforts by writing to you.
    Brother after going through this thread i was thinking of having one cultus
    you made every kind of work look so easy.
    Sharing your knowledge with such enthusiasm is really sadqa jaria.
    May allah bless you , and keep you and your close ones safe and healthy.
    Jazakallah khair.

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    Quote Originally Posted by dms664 View Post
    after how many kms or time period,brake fluid should be changed? for alto n for corolla 1.3 2010
    every year in humid weather and every 2 years in dry
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    cleaning the evaporator with caustic ash?? NO NO NO, it will oxidise the aluminium to the point of becoming "numb" to temperature change - meaning it will not suck ambient heat into its fins from the air and resulting in loss of cooling. More usage will result in the evaporator fins corroding and falling off.

    It is recommended only to clean the evaporator with a nylon brush and air, if it is mudded, then buy some proper coil cleaner solutions to clean it out nicely. These cleaning agents are available in Pakistan.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    I just got free from exams so I thought I should start testing stuff in the car.

    First test: Ignition coil
    The primary winding is around 1.5 ohm
    The secondary winding 14.6 ohm

    From what I have read this coil has almost run its course. Any suggestions will be appreciated.

    Second test: Coolant temperature sensor
    At 25 degree centigrade 800 ohm
    At 70 degree centigrade 110 ohm
    At 95 degree centigrade 25 ohm

    Are these readings good?

    Third test: PCV valve operation
    I could not open the two screws of the pcv valve even after applying some WD-40 and letting it settle. I left it as is as I did not want to ruin the grooves. From the look of it, it is clogged. May be even toast. The white stuff there is formed most probably because of coolant mixing with oil. Any suggestions how could that happen. I didn't open the head cover because I don't have the torque wrench yet to put the screws back properly. I didn't find any white stuff when I looked through the oil cap hole in the cover.

    Cultus engine and body overhaul and rebuild -378149

    Cultus engine and body overhaul and rebuild -378150

    Fourth test: Head gasket leakage
    I checked to see if there are any bubbles in the radiator. I did not find any. It does surge out slowly. Does that indicate anything. Thanks

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    every year in humid weather and every 2 years in dry
    please tell the science, my car is still running on genian, brake oil for the past 200,000+ kilometers, i asked my bro why doesnt he change it, and he just says that it just has to transmit pressure from one point to another and not prevent friction thus there is no need to change it unless there is a leak, i just feel this cant be right.

    another person told me that changing the brake oil might cause a leak as the new oil is bound to be less viscous then the one presently inside the brake system

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    cleaning the evaporator with caustic ash?? NO NO NO, it will oxidise the aluminium to the point of becoming "numb" to temperature change - meaning it will not suck ambient heat into its fins from the air and resulting in loss of cooling. More usage will result in the evaporator fins corroding and falling off.

    It is recommended only to clean the evaporator with a nylon brush and air, if it is mudded, then buy some proper coil cleaner solutions to clean it out nicely. These cleaning agents are available in Pakistan.
    i have once cleaned the evap and condenser with castic soda,,,,,,,,,,,,,,i dont know how it damages it but they become clean as new,,,,,,,,,,,

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