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Thread: alternator problem cuore ??

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    Default alternator problem cuore ??

    Have a problems with cuore,06 that at idle it seems that the car is not generating sufficient electric power. Like when head lights are on and radiator fan turns on then the head lights get dim slightly and engine starts to shiver a bit. If head lights are switched off then radiator fan noise changes as if it gained speed. Same thing happens if I press brake padle at idle, the engine seems to shiver a bit more with additional load of brake lights + brake booster.
    The battery (AGS XL-50 , 1 year 10 months old) is slightly weak and electrolyte oozes from caps often. Also I noticed that battery electrolyte level rises above HIGH after a short drive but goes to LOW after car is parked overnight.
    Before starting the car in morning the battery terminal show about 11.7 volts but just after starting the terminal voltage shows 14.6 volts.

    Idling is also a bit rough although it starts on 1st or second self on CNG in cold mornings


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    Quote Originally Posted by driver_guy View Post
    Have a problems with cuore,06 that at idle it seems that the car is not generating sufficient electric power. Like when head lights are on and radiator fan turns on then the head lights get dim slightly and engine starts to shiver a bit. If head lights are switched off then radiator fan noise changes as if it gained speed. Same thing happens if I press brake padle at idle, the engine seems to shiver a bit more with additional load of brake lights + brake booster.
    The battery (AGS XL-50 , 1 year 10 months old) is slightly weak and electrolyte oozes from caps often. Also I noticed that battery electrolyte level rises above HIGH after a short drive but goes to LOW after car is parked overnight.
    Before starting the car in morning the battery terminal show about 11.7 volts but just after starting the terminal voltage shows 14.6 volts.

    Idling is also a bit rough although it starts on 1st or second self on CNG in cold mornings
    when did you tuned your car last?
    You will beat us with technology and speed???? we will beat you with experience.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ziddipathan View Post
    when did you tuned your car last?
    It was tuned recently. problem has been around for quite sometime even across past 2 -3 tunings

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    hope it's good tip of this field hope more peoples use this.

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    anyone ?????

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    Sent u a pm fr ur problem
    Loaded with SQ setup

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    @rockk.Thanks I will investigate a bit more and if the problem turns out to be the alternator then I will get back to you

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    yesterday i checked the battery and it was almost dry. A lot of acid was overflowed on the battery surface through the caps. I refilled it with some electrolyte mixture.

    Should I buy a new battery ? or check the alternator first? And how to check that alternator is giving excessive current?

    Awaiting expert's comments

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    11.6V on a standing battery means it is lower than fully down. A standing battery should show 12.6V (a 12V battery is made of 6x2.1V cells). Your alternator is working perfect and is going to full load because the battery has no capability of reserve to tackle the sudden ampere demands of lights, radiator fan etc.

    Best check the battery electrolyte SG, Most probably it was prepared with dirty tap water and is dead beyond help - install a new battery with electrolyte made with PURE distilled water. It will serve you very good.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    buy a new battery if u want...your alternator is perfectly okay
    if u dont want to buy a new battery open the caps and check whether the electrodes have swelled up or not also chk for the black deposits in inside of battery caps.just drain all the solution out of your battery and fill it till somewhere b/w low and high...dont cross high mark.and when u fill up your gravity meters reading should be somewhere b/w 1200-1300...to be specific its 1260.
    give it a overnight charge on 12v ups if u have or get your car dhakka start and take it for a long drive say half and hour or 45mins.
    or if u dont want u may take it to a bettery wala usstaad :p
    incase your electrodes aint swelled up ur battery will last another 6months without any problem..i hope it helps
    mAin tE h0nDa hE lAisAn...

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    As the voltage hike upto 14+ V after start means alternator is Ok. The issue is either with your battery. Also check electric vaccum for working condition which increase engine race when Headlights/ Fan get on.
    >>>>>>Toyota Corolla GLI Ecotec- A power Machine<<<<<<

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    I installed a new battery last month but the problem is still there. At idle if there is some electrical load then engine starts shivering.

    Did some testing with voltmeter
    At idle with no load ~ 14 Volts
    At idle with head light on ~ 13.5 Volts
    At idle with head lights + radiator fan on ~ 12.8 Volts

    I am suspecting alternator is dying slowly. Alternator bearing is also noisy.

    I am thinking of changing alternator brushes, bearings , voltage regulator and rectifier.

    Any idea if these things are available as spares?? And are these spares long lasting??

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    swap with one from Bilal gunj ask for warranty if any. The alternator is over charging possibly after heat up. If there is bearing noise swap is good option.
    - www.crackwheels.com - A skilled Dictator is much more beneficial to Country......than a Democracy of Ignorant people

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    Quote Originally Posted by driver_guy View Post
    I installed a new battery last month but the problem is still there. At idle if there is some electrical load then engine starts shivering.

    Did some testing with voltmeter
    At idle with no load ~ 14 Volts
    At idle with head light on ~ 13.5 Volts
    At idle with head lights + radiator fan on ~ 12.8 Volts

    I am suspecting alternator is dying slowly. Alternator bearing is also noisy.

    I am thinking of changing alternator brushes, bearings , voltage regulator and rectifier.

    Any idea if these things are available as spares?? And are these spares long lasting??
    i can get u an alternator as told u b4..
    Loaded with SQ setup

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    Quote Originally Posted by driver_guy View Post
    Have a problems with cuore,06 that at idle it seems that the car is not generating sufficient electric power. Like when head lights are on and radiator fan turns on then the head lights get dim slightly and engine starts to shiver a bit. If head lights are switched off then radiator fan noise changes as if it gained speed. Same thing happens if I press brake padle at idle, the engine seems to shiver a bit more with additional load of brake lights + brake booster.
    The battery (AGS XL-50 , 1 year 10 months old) is slightly weak and electrolyte oozes from caps often. Also I noticed that battery electrolyte level rises above HIGH after a short drive but goes to LOW after car is parked overnight.
    Before starting the car in morning the battery terminal show about 11.7 volts but just after starting the terminal voltage shows 14.6 volts.

    Idling is also a bit rough although it starts on 1st or second self on CNG in cold mornings
    dear a simple test to check the alternator with out using any tool,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,start the engine and pull off one of the battery terminal,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,ask some one to keep foot on the acclerator pedal so that engine wont die,,,,,,,,,,,,,once the battery terminal removed you just switch on the head lights , ac fan means put some load on alternator,,,,,,,,,,,,,in that condition all the electrical system is only and only running on alternator,,,,,,,,,,,,,,if head lights become too dim when you switch on the ac and radiator fan then it means you need to change the alternator,,,,,,,,,,,,it the alternator is too weak then car will die as soon as you switch on the lights while the terminal is removed ,,,,,,,,,,,,,

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    Quote Originally Posted by agoodfriend View Post
    dear a simple test to check the alternator with out using any tool,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,start the engine and pull off one of the battery terminal,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,ask some one to keep foot on the acclerator pedal so that engine wont die,,,,,,,,,,,,,once the battery terminal removed you just switch on the head lights , ac fan means put some load on alternator,,,,,,,,,,,,,in that condition all the electrical system is only and only running on alternator,,,,,,,,,,,,,,if head lights become too dim when you switch on the ac and radiator fan then it means you need to change the alternator,,,,,,,,,,,,it the alternator is too weak then car will die as soon as you switch on the lights while the terminal is removed ,,,,,,,,,,,,,
    This advice would have been good for old dynamo systems, but trying this on an internal voltage regulator alternator would result in looking for a new alternator.

    Best check with a DMM and an AMMETER.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by capsat View Post
    swap with one from Bilal gunj ask for warranty if any. The alternator is over charging possibly after heat up. If there is bearing noise swap is good option.
    Refurbished alternators at bilal gunj do not last long,. Would it not be better if I get my original one serviced as I mentioned above by changing bearings, VR, Rectifier and Brushes etc. ???

    Quote Originally Posted by rockk View Post
    i can get u an alternator as told u b4..
    Thanks again. I will let you know if I come to the point of swapping my current alternator.

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    Quote Originally Posted by agoodfriend View Post
    dear a simple test to check the alternator with out using any tool,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,start the engine and pull off one of the battery terminal,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,ask some one to keep foot on the acclerator pedal so that engine wont die,,,,,,,,,,,,,once the battery terminal removed you just switch on the head lights , ac fan means put some load on alternator,,,,,,,,,,,,,in that condition all the electrical system is only and only running on alternator,,,,,,,,,,,,,,if head lights become too dim when you switch on the ac and radiator fan then it means you need to change the alternator,,,,,,,,,,,,it the alternator is too weak then car will die as soon as you switch on the lights while the terminal is removed ,,,,,,,,,,,,,
    As I mentioned above I did test it with voltmeter.

    At idle with no load ~ 14 Volts
    At idle with head light on ~ 13.5 Volts
    At idle with head lights + radiator fan on ~ 12.8 Volts

    Also I can feel by running and starting of the car that its not dead yet but it is getting weak gradually.


    What I want to know is , can my original alternator be rebuilt with new bearings, voltage regulator, rectifier, bearings etc ??? And is this a long lasting solution??

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    This advice would have been good for old dynamo systems, but trying this on an internal voltage regulator alternator would result in looking for a new alternator.

    Best check with a DMM and an AMMETER.
    I have the same question again:

    Voltmeter readings:

    At idle with no load ~ 14 Volts
    At idle with head light on ~ 13.5 Volts
    At idle with head lights + radiator fan on ~ 12.8 Volts

    Alternator bearing is a bit noisy.

    Also I can feel by running and starting of the car that its not dead yet but it is getting weak gradually.


    What I want to know is , can my original alternator be rebuilt with new bearings, voltage regulator, rectifier, bearings etc ??? And is this a long lasting solution??

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    You should firstly ensure that your battery is in perfect shape, it should have excellent quality electrolyte in it, remember that an alternator needs a battery in place to act as a reserve bank.

    A cold standing battery should have a standing voltage of 12.6V at minimum when the car is parked overnight. If its low - first fix that then check the alternator.

    When everything is perfect

    check by running a direct wire from the alternator B+ post to the battery - a thick wire i.e.

    no dice, clamp a jumper cable to the alternator body and the battery negative. If it helps, you need to clean out the ground or add a new one, preferably from the body to the alternator case.

    If it still does not help then

    you can also check by full fielding the alternator, by inserting a narrow screwdriver in the little hole that is in the back plate of the alternator, it should touch the carbon brush screw, the idea is to bypass the VR and make the alternator go to full load. You should now see a voltage of 15V or more. If you do then your alternator's internal voltage regulator is bad. Replace that. The rest of the alternator is good.

    If you do replace the alternator - get rid of the silly small denso thing and install a Bosch, siemens or valeo compact 50A unit, that matches the mount, wiring it up is very easy for someone who knows European alternators
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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