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Thread: Cuore Fan Club

  1. #1
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    Default Cuore Fan Club

    HI to all coure owners here u can post qualities of ur car compare to other its compititers like ,mehran, alto etc,,,




    (heading edited by admin/mods - spelling mistake)

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    Upgrade Distributor:
    I have swapped my stock distributor with Cuore/Mira electronic distributor. Cost 3200 in total (Rs.200 electrician) with full stuff including distributor cap, rotor, original wiring with connector, 99% condition main distributor and plug cables etc. I did it to remove the need of point breaker check up/cleaning at intervals. I feel the revs have been better than before, even and smoothed out. Also a tad bit quieter engine on idling + response at high revs with AC on also seems to be improved a lot!

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    Assalam o alaikum everyone
    Since im out of country for job, so my car was under use of my wife. Now i hav shifted here wid family. And my car is parked at home. Earlier its battery was bit down and i didnt get it changed coz i knew that we will be shifting abroad. Now yesterday my brother told me that battery is totally finished. He started the car wid jumper, kept it started for like 20 mins, then moved out. When came back and parked at home. Again car was not starting.
    I told my brother that i dont wamt to change the battery since car hardly goes out once in a month.
    So the question is that is it ok to keep the car wid dead battery??
    I have asked my brother to start the car wid jumper and keep it started for 10 15 minutes once or twice a month.
    What r ur opinions??

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    Quote Originally Posted by usmanuetian View Post
    Assalam o alaikum everyone
    So the question is that is it ok to keep the car wid dead battery??
    I have asked my brother to start the car wid jumper and keep it started for 10 15 minutes once or twice a month.
    What r ur opinions??

    Sent from my SM-G920F using PW Forums mobile app
    Keeping car with dead battery serves no harm to car but to the user only IMO and after Jump starting you need to drive an hour or so to fully charge the battery. It wont do the trick on Idle. It needs 1.5 rpm and above at least.

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    Quote Originally Posted by midreestaj View Post
    Keeping car with dead battery serves no harm to car but to the user only IMO and after Jump starting you need to drive an hour or so to fully charge the battery. It wont do the trick on Idle. It needs 1.5 rpm and above at least.
    I will get new battery when i will go to Pak for vacation.
    Thanks for ur reply.

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    Today I went to market & asked for wiring work,then I went to recommended guy he refused to do for not having time but he referred me to another guy who gave 2 choices.
    1.usual wiring not like genuine in 5000 labour + parts will be provided by me.
    2.wiring like genuine with labour 8K & parts will be provided by me approximate cost about 3-4K.
    According to him new genuine type wiring is better then kabli wiring.
    Then I went to my electrician,didnt tell him about all this & asked him to get price of kabli wiring from peshawar he phoned & told 15K plus 2-3K labour.according to him kabli is better for better wire quality,connectors etc & he said in making new like genuine quality is lost due to low quality of local wires,he didn't recommend getting new genuine like wiring.i asked him if kabli wiring of 660cc or 850cc will fit on my cuore he said it will as fit good when I asked him kabli cars are efi he said efi part of wiring has totally separate wires & that won't be a problem.i told him it is too costly & it won't raise resale value of my old car, I left shop telling him let me inquire some other sources too.
    Now what should I do?another guy whom I contacted myself told me price of kabli cuore wiring 6.5K in 9/10 condition.Should I go for new genuine like local made or kabli.i have time to decide for it as this work will be done in next time unless any major issue occue.
    Apart from this I had another problem happened twice in last 3 days,when I stop or reduce car speed before turning into a street it turns OFF,it restart on 1st sulf without problem but when I press accelerator it turns OFF again,this happens 3-4 times then I press accelerator deeply & car start running fine again.is it related to bad carburator settings or kachra in carburator or electric problem.when it happened 1st time 3 days ago at that time when car was turning OFF on pressing accelerator I could hear small spark noise everytime it was turning OFF.
    A question for @midreestaj you have changed distributor but with new distributor won't you need point cleaning etc after sometime?‎

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    Quote Originally Posted by usmanuetian View Post
    I will get new battery when i will go to Pak for vacation.
    Thanks for ur reply.

    Sent from my SM-G920F using PW Forums mobile app
    New battery is best.. What a cart without working battery bro turn it to a legitimate Car

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    I think you better get kabuli wiring for 6.5k and save efi part. If you change engine in future you can use that wiring. As for turning off isuue, from your description it also seems like wiring issue. I also have kabuli distributor. It requires no maintenance and car runs smoother.
    Quote Originally Posted by wasf View Post
    Today I went to market & asked for wiring work,then I went to recommended guy he refused to do for not having time but he referred me to another guy who gave 2 choices.
    1.usual wiring not like genuine in 5000 labour + parts will be provided by me.
    2.wiring like genuine with labour 8K & parts will be provided by me approximate cost about 3-4K.
    According to him new genuine type wiring is better then kabli wiring.
    Then I went to my electrician,didnt tell him about all this & asked him to get price of kabli wiring from peshawar he phoned & told 15K plus 2-3K labour.according to him kabli is better for better wire quality,connectors etc & he said in making new like genuine quality is lost due to low quality of local wires,he didn't recommend getting new genuine like wiring.i asked him if kabli wiring of 660cc or 850cc will fit on my cuore he said it will as fit good when I asked him kabli cars are efi he said efi part of wiring has totally separate wires & that won't be a problem.i told him it is too costly & it won't raise resale value of my old car, I left shop telling him let me inquire some other sources too.
    Now what should I do?another guy whom I contacted myself told me price of kabli cuore wiring 6.5K in 9/10 condition.Should I go for new genuine like local made or kabli.i have time to decide for it as this work will be done in next time unless any major issue occue.
    Apart from this I had another problem happened twice in last 3 days,when I stop or reduce car speed before turning into a street it turns OFF,it restart on 1st sulf without problem but when I press accelerator it turns OFF again,this happens 3-4 times then I press accelerator deeply & car start running fine again.is it related to bad carburator settings or kachra in carburator or electric problem.when it happened 1st time 3 days ago at that time when car was turning OFF on pressing accelerator I could hear small spark noise everytime it was turning OFF.
    A question for @midreestaj you have changed distributor but with new distributor won't you need point cleaning etc after sometime?‎

  9. #2588
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    Quote Originally Posted by wasf View Post
    Today I went to market & asked for wiring work,then I went to recommended guy he refused to do for not having time but he referred me to another guy who gave 2 choices.
    1.usual wiring not like genuine in 5000 labour + parts will be provided by me.
    2.wiring like genuine with labour 8K & parts will be provided by me approximate cost about 3-4K.
    According to him new genuine type wiring is better then kabli wiring.
    Then I went to my electrician,didnt tell him about all this & asked him to get price of kabli wiring from peshawar he phoned & told 15K plus 2-3K labour.according to him kabli is better for better wire quality,connectors etc & he said in making new like genuine quality is lost due to low quality of local wires,he didn't recommend getting new genuine like wiring.i asked him if kabli wiring of 660cc or 850cc will fit on my cuore he said it will as fit good when I asked him kabli cars are efi he said efi part of wiring has totally separate wires & that won't be a problem.i told him it is too costly & it won't raise resale value of my old car, I left shop telling him let me inquire some other sources too.
    Now what should I do?another guy whom I contacted myself told me price of kabli cuore wiring 6.5K in 9/10 condition.Should I go for new genuine like local made or kabli.i have time to decide for it as this work will be done in next time unless any major issue occue.
    Apart from this I had another problem happened twice in last 3 days,when I stop or reduce car speed before turning into a street it turns OFF,it restart on 1st sulf without problem but when I press accelerator it turns OFF again,this happens 3-4 times then I press accelerator deeply & car start running fine again.is it related to bad carburator settings or kachra in carburator or electric problem.when it happened 1st time 3 days ago at that time when car was turning OFF on pressing accelerator I could hear small spark noise everytime it was turning OFF.
    A question for @midreestaj you have changed distributor but with new distributor won't you need point cleaning etc after sometime?‎
    Yes you should get the kabli wiring as meh1 suggested. Please drop idea of local wiring at all if you don't want problems later.
    About car turning off,
    1. did you recently service your carburetor with carb spray? If not please do it thoroughly. Finish 1 bottle on it completely. In the air intake and all outer area including all linkages and attached components of carburetor.
    2. what is the condition of your air filter element? How often do you get it cleaned? I get it cleaned by pressurized air just about every weekend after car wash from the service station. It never gets dirty this way.
    3. Now as you hear the sparks, you have your wiring to blame here. Check ignition coil wiring. Check distributor along with distributor main cable, plug cables. All this comes later on first check points 1 & 2

    About the electronic distributor, it does not have point/breaker and yes no cleaning or adjustment/clearance settings required throughout its life.

  10. #2589
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    OK after your recommendations I have finalised to get kabli wiring.
    About service of carburator its tuning was done before Ramazan.air filter is 4-5 months old & it was cleaned with pressure air while tuning.carburator was cleaned with spray,one of 3 plugs were changed too.plugs wires 2 are genuine in good shape 3rd is fine too.Ignition coil cable was replaced with kabli as its end that is attached to ignition box was melted,i will recheck it again.should air filter be changed now it was from local workshop but mechanic says it is still Ok.i like your routine of cleaning air filter with every car wash.
    How can we check distributor?is it that thing to which plugs box is attached & ignition coil cable is attached? you made very wise decision of replacing distributor,hassle free no tension.did you get it from lahore?

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    Quote Originally Posted by wasf View Post
    OK after your recommendations I have finalised to get kabli wiring.
    About service of carburator its tuning was done before Ramazan.air filter is 4-5 months old & it was cleaned with pressure air while tuning.carburator was cleaned with spray,one of 3 plugs were changed too.plugs wires 2 are genuine in good shape 3rd is fine too.Ignition coil cable was replaced with kabli as its end that is attached to ignition box was melted,i will recheck it again.should air filter be changed now it was from local workshop but mechanic says it is still Ok.i like your routine of cleaning air filter with every car wash.
    About distributor is it that Black box next to chassis number plate to which ignition coil cable is attached?you made very wise decision of replacing distributor,hassle free no tension.did you get it from lahore?
    I got it from Sialkot where I work too. It is the black round type box fitted on the right side of engine by which the plug cables originate. If you have air filter cleaned more than a month now you can do it again. Check if the spark problem persists. Also check your Point for clearance and cleaning, and idle RPMs adjustment

  12. #2591
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    Have you put Japanese Mira CDI distributor now? Do it give better mileage?
    How to check distributor?
    Please tell where is point?In my car ignition coil cable is attached to a round black box located next to chassis number plate,is it ignition box?about idle rpm adjustment I should visit mechanic for it as I don't know how to do it.
    By the way my car has old speedometer without RPM gauge.what is benefit of having RPM?do it improve driving style of driver too while observing it?my brother showed me on another car saying gears are changed when it goes to 4.

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    Quote Originally Posted by wasf View Post
    Have you put Japanese Mira CDI distributor now? Do it give better mileage? yes it is jdm mira's electronic distributor. No mileage is not the concern here but maintenance is. Also IMO, it gives accurate firing pattern in cylinders and thus performance stays consistent at all rpms.
    How to check distributor? Dont know any proper method of checking distributor however when user faces ignition problems, misfiring in cylinders, you are ought to check and replace these parts i.e. Coil, coil ballast, related wiring, distributor, plug cables and plugs etc.
    Please tell where is point? There is a small clipper like part inside distributor called Breaker. This clip(breaker) has two points which come in contact and generate the pulse of spark firing.
    In my car ignition coil cable is attached to a round black box located next to chassis number plate,is it ignition box? No this part is called ignition coil which is a round cylinder like part.
    about idle rpm adjustment I should visit mechanic for it as I don't know how to do it.
    It is simple to adjust however ask mechanic to set it at 1-1.2k rpm I think your engine will feel better at slowing down times on this rpm (stock is 800 rpm +,- 100 rpm).
    By the way my car has old speedometer without RPM gauge.what is benefit of having RPM?do it improve driving style of driver too while observing it? I would say yes it does improve the way you get performance out of your car gear shifts. Also when AC is on and windows are closed fully with sound system ON too there is almost no feedback from engine as no revving sound coming in cabin. At such times rpm meter works like charm as it saves u from shifting at incorrect engine rpms whether driving mode is efficient/fuel saving style or performance style.
    ........

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    Cuore  Fan Club -1697343Cuore  Fan Club -1697345Cuore  Fan Club -1697350
    Already using same oil currently today bought in advance 1 new 4L pack. Along it bought Meguin's Engine safe x3 bottles.
    Meguin is a sister company to Liqui Moly. Product is oil additive made by LM too but this one is branded by Meguin. It is Molybdenum Di-sulphide which is an industrial grade lubricant used in heavy industries as well as automotive applications. it is 125ml can and good for 3 liters oil sumps. Very good results so far... engine noise is reduced to half.. checked only in idle after pouring it and giving the engine 1 heat cycle. Engine is literally purring happily.

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    please share prices.
    Quote Originally Posted by midreestaj View Post
    Cuore  Fan Club -1697343Cuore  Fan Club -1697345Cuore  Fan Club -1697350
    Already using same oil currently today bought in advance 1 new 4L pack. Along it bought Meguin's Engine safe x3 bottles.
    Meguin is a sister company to Liqui Moly. Product is oil additive made by LM too but this one is branded by Meguin. It is Molybdenum Di-sulphide which is an industrial grade lubricant used in heavy industries as well as automotive applications. it is 125ml can and good for 3 liters oil sumps. Very good results so far... engine noise is reduced to half.. checked only in idle after pouring it and giving the engine 1 heat cycle. Engine is literally purring happily.

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    Quote Originally Posted by meh1 View Post
    please share prices.
    LM Super Leichtlauf 10w40 4L pack: Rs.3000/-
    Meguin Engine Safe 125ml bottle: Rs.550/-

    Meguin is sister company to LM and almost all of LM products are also available with branding of Meguin. I was after LM MoS2 Anti-Friction Engine Treatment bottle but at time being stock was out. Same thing was available in Meguin brand equally good so bought it.

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    Today I checked plugs cables, ignition coil cable side attached to distributor side & ignition coil I observed it has some wax type particles on ignition coil side attachment which I cleaned.other things I will check soon too. @midreestaj what made you belief getting benefit of adding oil additive with engine oil?do you feel difference practicaly if local brand oils & LM oil are compared & particularly after adding oil additive?some senior car experts say that these additives are just market gimmicks having no major benefits.
    as you wrote oil is reduced with LM too but I think difference is for you it is reduced after 2000km drive on long routes.mine was reduced after 2000 km with 1-2 long routes only.LM is 3 times costly then local oils,but is imported oil-do it make difference on engine performance,oil reduction etc?
    Mostly people including senior mechanics agree for use of 20w50 in old engine I think here 50 is temperature so 10w40 is suitable for summer when temperature exceeds 40 degree,also 20w50 is thicker consistency so if it is reduced then 10w40 being thinner shouldn't reduce much earlier?

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    Quote Originally Posted by wasf View Post
    Today I checked plugs cables, ignition coil cable side attached to distributor side & ignition coil I observed it has some wax type particles on ignition coil side attachment which I cleaned.other things I will check soon too. @midreestaj what made you belief getting benefit of adding oil additive with engine oil?do you feel difference practicaly if local brand oils & LM oil are compared & particularly after adding oil additive?some senior car experts say that these additives are just market gimmicks having no major benefits.
    as you wrote oil is reduced with LM too but I think difference is for you it is reduced after 2000km drive on long routes.mine was reduced after 2000 km with 1-2 long routes only.LM is 3 times costly then local oils,but is imported oil-do it make difference on engine performance,oil reduction etc?
    Mostly people including senior mechanics agree for use of 20w50 in old engine I think here 50 is temperature so 10w40 is suitable for summer when temperature exceeds 40 degree,also 20w50 is thicker consistency so if it is reduced then 10w40 being thinner shouldn't reduce much earlier?
    Engine Oil in itself is a formulation of oil and additives to give it certain characteristics. All oils do lubrication but to enhance it additives are added. These additives are derived from petroleum itself and also from other chemicals.
    Why I chose LM specific oil is that it has reduced oil consumption at 2000 km from 300ml to non existent. On dip stick I used to see 2cm drop but now I see only 0.25 cm drop which I would call non existent. LM Super leichtlauf is working dear as advertised. They say it has seal conditioners and what I observed confirms it.
    Now the additive part. This additive is MOS2 (Molybdenum Di-sulphide) an old well known heavy duty lubricant. Among oils different additives are used to enhance its lubrication properties, a few of these use MOS2. LM is one of them and makes oil called MOS2 Leichtlauf which is already prepared mixture of oil and MOS2 and you do not need to add more MOS2 in it. The oil I have chosen suits old engines with high mileage does not have MOS2 in it rather other conventional lubrication related additives. To increase its lubrication properties you have formulation in your own hands at least a little of it. What bad would it be if you have an option to Custom setup your oil characteristics? I think its best option. MoS2 has an industrial background and is a proven compound so my confidence is on it. Secondly LM itself is a respected name worldwide so more power to LM and to my confidence

    About oil viscosity, 20 and 50 do not mean they are meant for ambient/atmospheric Temperatures of 20 and 50 degrees C or F. They are weights of oil that have a corresponding range of Temperature degrees that they can accommodate to with respect to their RATE of Flow & Density of oil layer. Where the first number 20 is the weight of oil on ambient temperature/or cold engine. The later number 50 is the weight of oil on working temperature of engine/warmed up under load state e.g in 10w40 weight 10 can bear a little below Zero degree C and would still flow on a cold engine upon starting the car. As soon as the car warms up it temperature would reach 85+ degrees the other part of oil weight 40 will come in effect. 40 serves well up and beyond 50 degree C and still providing enough flow and density. Kindly check the Viscosity chart for clearance over internet.
    10w40 is the most suitable thickness of oil with respect to flow and density at all temperature that Cuore engine requires. You increase the viscosity you increase your engine drag and drop your mileage and response from throttle. You decrease the viscosity you give a hard time to your valves, guides, springs and cam shaft and rest about every other moving part inside engine.

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    Quote Originally Posted by midreestaj View Post
    Engine Oil in itself is a formulation of oil and additives to give it certain characteristics. All oils do lubrication but to enhance it additives are added. These additives are derived from petroleum itself and also from other chemicals.
    Why I chose LM specific oil is that it has reduced oil consumption at 2000 km from 300ml to non existent. On dip stick I used to see 2cm drop but now I see only 0.25 cm drop which I would call non existent. LM Super leichtlauf is working dear as advertised. They say it has seal conditioners and what I observed confirms it.
    Now the additive part. This additive is MOS2 (Molybdenum Di-sulphide) an old well known heavy duty lubricant. Among oils different additives are used to enhance its lubrication properties, a few of these use MOS2. LM is one of them and makes oil called MOS2 Leichtlauf which is already prepared mixture of oil and MOS2 and you do not need to add more MOS2 in it. The oil I have chosen suits old engines with high mileage does not have MOS2 in it rather other conventional lubrication related additives. To increase its lubrication properties you have formulation in your own hands at least a little of it. What bad would it be if you have an option to Custom setup your oil characteristics? I think its best option. MoS2 has an industrial background and is a proven compound so my confidence is on it. Secondly LM itself is a respected name worldwide so more power to LM and to my confidence

    About oil viscosity, 20 and 50 do not mean they are meant for ambient/atmospheric Temperatures of 20 and 50 degrees C or F. They are weights of oil that have a corresponding range of Temperature degrees that they can accommodate to with respect to their RATE of Flow & Density of oil layer. Where the first number 20 is the weight of oil on ambient temperature/or cold engine. The later number 50 is the weight of oil on working temperature of engine/warmed up under load state e.g in 10w40 weight 10 can bear a little below Zero degree C and would still flow on a cold engine upon starting the car. As soon as the car warms up it temperature would reach 85+ degrees the other part of oil weight 40 will come in effect. 40 serves well up and beyond 50 degree C and still providing enough flow and density. Kindly check the Viscosity chart for clearance over internet.
    10w40 is the most suitable thickness of oil with respect to flow and density at all temperature that Cuore engine requires. You increase the viscosity you increase your engine drag and drop your mileage and response from throttle. You decrease the viscosity you give a hard time to your valves, guides, springs and cam shaft and rest about every other moving part inside engine.
    Well explained. I will try LM too next time on oil change.please tell when should I change?current oil has run about 2300km & I added about 500ml to it which was reduced.
    Also please tell what differences you have noticed in performance apart from oil reduction while using local brands oil & LM oil?
    When rings or pistons are changed in car?what are signs?black smoke? is it related to any specific amount of old reduction?is it related to oil reduction within city drive or long route? @midreestaj didn't you ever consider to install efi in your car?it costs 20-25K.my car electrician has it installed in his cuore & few of his friends & he is satisfied with it,says mileage in long route is 21-22km/L & I think there is no need to adjust carburetor settings etc too.

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    Quote Originally Posted by wasf View Post
    Well explained. I will try LM too next time on oil change.please tell when should I change?current oil has run about 2300km & I added about 500ml to it which was reduced.
    Also please tell what differences you have noticed in performance apart from oil reduction while using local brands oil & LM oil?
    When rings or pistons are changed in car?what are signs?black smoke? is it related to any specific amount of old reduction?is it related to oil reduction within city drive or long route? @midreestaj didn't you ever consider to install efi in your car?it costs 20-25K.my car electrician has it installed in his cuore & few of his friends & he is satisfied with it,says mileage in long route is 21-22km/L & I think there is no need to adjust carburetor settings etc too.
    You should complete your Oil change interval as usual e.g if you change oil @ 3000 km then do it after completion of cycle.

    Let me tell you that I have used following Oils in my Cuore and honestly all of these oils felt the same as far as smoothness and petrol consumption is concerned.

    The difference lies in Engine sound, smoke feedback smell and texture etc. Its a top down list where the oil on top is the best in my opinion;

    LM Super leichtlauf 10w40 (least smoke smell on start ups and on high rpm thrusts. Lowest engine sound of all. OCI@6000Km)

    Castrol Magnatec 10w40 (very similar to LM in all aspects OCI@4000Km)

    Shell Helix Ultra 5w40 (Smelly fumes, fastest burning oil of all due to seepage past my weak seals, color of oil changed within 3-4 days to quite dark brown. I suspect it isn't the cleaning thing as this oil is supposed to clean engine top notch. My engine is already clean from inside due to past usage of synthetic formula oils. The quality of Helix Ultra I doubt is not same as International and I believe it suffers oxidation. OCI@6000km nearly black color of oil when thrown out)

    Shell Helix HX7 (same as Helix Ultra, additionally noisy due to thinner oil weight (5w) at startups only not after warm up. OCI@5000km, black color when thrown out)

    Toyota Mineral 20w50 (quieter engine, sluggish/heavy feel on accleration, engine flushed at the end of its usage and moving to synthetic formulas and found bit of gunk coming out. This oil Changes its feel after 3000 Km unlike above mentioned oils as they do not change feel of smoothness at all)
    +I only use either Toyota Denso Thai made Oil Filter or Nippon Micro Japanese filter. Nothing else.

    Rings are changed when there is excessive blowback in crank case. Excessive oil seepage past rings and seals. Excessive oil reduction e.g if your oil is reducing at the rate Greater than 500ml @ 1000 Km. When the head is Opened it is wise to change all at once namely; Head gasket, Rings, Valve seals (signs of weak engine) and even the clutch plate, pressure plates and bearings if they are needy too as greater modification and opening of engine is required to change so these should be done in one go to save time and cost. Oil reduction issue when becomes worst you will see it in city driving too.

    I have EFI in my mind but cost is over weighing the benefits in this case. My engine and components are in good shape and I am consistently getting 18 km/L on the minimum side and 21 Km/L on very long trips such as visit to ISB and back. In city I am getting 14-15 Km/L. I would think of eFI with full engine swap some day after my Rings/Pistons/Clutch plates all require work together.

    Also in previous posts I have seen your comments about Black smoke. It is much because of rich mixture settings (more fuel and less air) instead of bad rings/pistons. Please get your carb adjusted for mixture settings from an expert mechanic. If the smoke is puffing clouds of dark grey/bluish smoke when you dip the gas pedal then it is rings/piston thing.

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    Salam need your suggestions today I installed ac in my cuore , compressor ek wagon. Ac is chilled but car is heating up within 5 minutes pls tell me what should I do. There is simple water in radiator. Should I put coolant if yes than which coolant is best for cuore

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