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Thread: Cuore 2000 suspension, engine work

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    Default Cuore 2000 suspension, engine work

    I recently bought a used 2000 model cuore.it was checked by my friend & car electrician who told us about this car.i don't know about car history of repairs but body is good in shape.my friend checked body for rust& said OK while electrician recommended to buy saying if you spend 20-25K on car it will be fit.i bought car in 3lac 20 thousands.i took car to Toyota workshop for checkup.They told suspension needs work,front wheel bearing,left lower arm bush,tie rod work,steering boot,caliper kit,rear wheel bearing etc.Tomorrow they will tell me cost of new parts.Labour charges will be 4000 & steering reula repair will be 2000.‎
    Now about engine they told it is weak,needs overhaul,timing seal & some other seals are leaking,water is mixing with oil,crank sound on high acceleration.For engine work Toyota mechanic says if I purchase Toyota parts it will cost around 1 lac & if I fix deal with mechanic it will cost around 65K he will use kabli parts.
    Tyres also need to be replaced.‎
    I am learning driving these days.Please suggest how should I proceed.Keep learning to drive without any work on car ?Do suspension,wheels work first & engine in the end?any other suggestion.[IMG]Name:  uploadfromtaptalk1453910321766.jpg
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  2. #41
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    Somebody please share info about my question asked in post #40. Today It felt like I had to press brake till the end to apply it.Before changing this brake booster brake was starting on pressing pedal a little

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    Quote Originally Posted by wasf View Post
    Somebody please share info about my question asked in post #40. Today It felt like I had to press brake till the end to apply it.Before changing this brake booster brake was starting on pressings' pedal a little
    That is a diff of part no. Part nos r available only in part catalogues or u can search on.line by feeding complete part no. Just by pointing out difference in last few digits no one can assess which brake booster is this. If online search doesn't recognize the numbers go to Toyota motors they have a part no database. Apparently its a booster of newer model might be of another make like passo or vitz or boom etc

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    Quote Originally Posted by Naweed View Post
    That is a diff of part no. Part nos r available only in part catalogues or u can search on.line by feeding complete part no. Just by pointing out difference in last few digits no one can assess which brake booster is this. If online search doesn't recognize the numbers go to Toyota motors they have a part no database. Apparently its a booster of newer model might be of another make like passo or vitz or boom etc
    Good advice Naveed sb. While replacing brake booster mechanic told it is good that we found similar fitting of kabli brake booster otherwise some alterations are done to fix it. Now what do you say Sir should I go to Toyota & ask for exact number or carry on with this kabli one?i feel that previous settings of brake was good,brake was applying earlier when I pressed pedal a little now it is applied when I press pedal more deep but as wheel was becoming hot even after changing caliper the mechanic changed it for my mental satisfaction

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    Quote Originally Posted by wasf View Post
    Good advice Naveed sb. While replacing brake booster mechanic told it is good that we found similar fitting of kabli brake booster otherwise some alterations are done to fix it. Now what do you say Sir should I go to Toyota & ask for exact number or carry on with this kabli one?i feel that previous settings of brake was good,brake was applying earlier when I pressed pedal a little now it is applied when I press pedal more deep but as wheel was becoming hot even after changing caliper the mechanic changed it for my mental satisfaction
    cant advise on ur observation .. better get it checked by mechanic .. padel play and wheel locking can be adjusted .. so might be a simple adjustment issue .. it has to be checked physically
    "You have not lived today until you have done something for someone who can never repay you."

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    Now another problem.
    My car Engine occasionally turns off when slowing down while changing to lower gear near any speed breakers or turns etc.This problem occurs for few times then disappears for days or weeks & car runs Ok.Last time about a month when it bothered me much I took car to electrician he said to me you don't press release clutch properly then I tell my friend to drive car and it happened again then electrician himself drove car & accepted the issue,he then did some fixing while he took car away & when came back told me he has changed point & put genuine point as problem was in point.After some days problem reappeared I told my friend he said it can be due to bad petrol deposits causing this.What should I do now?another problem is it is sometimes difficult to make mechanic or electrician to belive you that the problem really occurs,they say you don't press release clutch properly or you don't drive properly etc etc.It can be very dangerous when car stops on a main road.

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    Quote Originally Posted by wasf View Post
    Somebody please share info about my question asked in post #40. Today It felt like I had to press brake till the end to apply it.Before changing this brake booster brake was starting on pressing pedal a little
    The apply piston in the booster where the pedal is levered in and the preload of the master cylinder is setup incorrectly in your car. Ask your mechanic to fix this.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by wasf View Post
    Now another problem.
    My car Engine occasionally turns off when slowing down while changing to lower gear near any speed breakers or turns etc.This problem occurs for few times then disappears for days or weeks & car runs Ok.Last time about a month when it bothered me much I took car to electrician he said to me you don't press release clutch properly then I tell my friend to drive car and it happened again then electrician himself drove car & accepted the issue,he then did some fixing while he took car away & when came back told me he has changed point & put genuine point as problem was in point.After some days problem reappeared I told my friend he said it can be due to bad petrol deposits causing this.What should I do now?another problem is it is sometimes difficult to make mechanic or electrician to belive you that the problem really occurs,they say you don't press release clutch properly or you don't drive properly etc etc.It can be very dangerous when car stops on a main road.
    If the contact points in the distributor were bad, the car would be having issues at all rpm - not just idling. Your problem sounds like either an air leak in the manifold which is causing lean out and stall or the idle circuit in your carburettor is clogged.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    The apply piston in the booster where the pedal is levered in and the preload of the master cylinder is setup incorrectly in your car. Ask your mechanic to fix this.
    Sir Thanx a lot for replying It is a pleasure to get your replies. I will try to explain mechanic as you told.While replacing brake booster the mechanic twice tried to set I think pressure or what when he loosens tights screws,releases some brake fluid from tubes & tells his shagird to press & release brake pedals(saying in punjabi Dbao bnao Dbao bnao).
    Also Sir Please tell about the difference of model number of previous & replaced brake boosters,previous was 180v, now kabli is 150V

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    Somebody please tell me in urdu what Sir Xulfiqar has advised in post #47 as it will be easier for me to explain mechanic to check

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    Quote Originally Posted by wasf View Post
    Sir Thanx a lot for replying It is a pleasure to get your replies. I will try to explain mechanic as you told.While replacing brake booster the mechanic twice tried to set I think pressure or what when he loosens tights screws,releases some brake fluid from tubes & tells his shagird to press & release brake pedals(saying in punjabi Dbao bnao Dbao bnao).
    Also Sir Please tell about the difference of model number of previous & replaced brake boosters,previous was 180v, now kabli is 150V
    180V and 150V are of no significance right now - one can assume it is the applied stroke inside the booster. The dbao/choro is brake bleed - we are not discussing that what I am discussing is the actual booster itself, it has a pin on the side of the master cylinder - this pin pushes the cylinder piston in when you apply the brake, this pin is adjustable too - it has to have no clearance to the master cylinder apply piston when installing. Any clearance here results in play in the lever.

    Another problem causing dead pedal feel is wrong bleeding of the brakes, the brakes should be bled with a catch bottle on the wheel slave cylinders - the bottle should be placed in a way that the liquid goes upwards from hub - but the entire setup should be below the master cylinder level in the engine room.

    check this thread - you will understand the concept.

    https://www.pakwheels.com/forums/d-i...10-rear-brakes
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    180V and 150V are of no significance right now - one can assume it is the applied stroke inside the booster. The dbao/choro is brake bleed - we are not discussing that what I am discussing is the actual booster itself, it has a pin on the side of the master cylinder - this pin pushes the cylinder piston in when you apply the brake, this pin is adjustable too - it has to have no clearance to the master cylinder apply piston when installing. Any clearance here results in play in the lever.

    Another problem causing dead pedal feel is wrong bleeding of the brakes, the brakes should be bled with a catch bottle on the wheel slave cylinders - the bottle should be placed in a way that the liquid goes upwards from hub - but the entire setup should be below the master cylinder level in the engine room.

    check this thread - you will understand the concept.

    https://www.pakwheels.com/forums/d-i...10-rear-brakes
    Sir it is so great of you for explaining in detail.Problem is that mechanics do the work as they like to do plus they are burdened to work on 2-3 cars at a time.I myself isn't so skilled to do this all,even don't have required tools.Can you recommend some mechanic or some guy who will do all this for me according to your explanation?

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    Quote Originally Posted by wasf View Post
    Somebody please tell me in urdu what Sir Xulfiqar has advised in post #47 as it will be easier for me to explain mechanic to check
    Inlet may say hawa leak ho sakti hai, ya carbureter ki setting out hai

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    Quote Originally Posted by dayrider View Post
    Inlet may say hawa leak ho sakti hai, ya carbureter ki setting out hai
    What is inlet manifold in urdu?can I check it myself?
    I remember when I bought the car same problem occured once,one month after when engine became hot & mechanic did fan direct he changed the head gasket,at that time I noticed there is a piece of paper placed in the air filter box,i don't know why it was placed there.
    Is turning off of engine at slow speed be related to Old or bad plug wires or bad plugs?A friend also suggested to remove all CNG connections if not using cng.

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    Quote Originally Posted by wasf View Post
    What is inlet manifold in urdu?can I check it myself?
    I remember when I bought the car same problem occured once,one month after when engine became hot & mechanic did fan direct he changed the head gasket,at that time I noticed there is a piece of paper placed in the air filter box,i don't know why it was placed there.
    Is turning off of engine at slow speed be related to Old or bad plug wires or bad plugs?A friend also suggested to remove all CNG connections if not using cng.
    That paper could be the issue, a picture of it would help. Inlet is inlet, jahan say hawa aur petrol engine may jata hai

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    Salam .... !!!

    it iz sad to say but true ... i think ... your mech was a culprit and not guide to in the right way ..... u buy a expensive car with lot of problem in it

    i also owned a coure 2000 but all perfect ...

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    Get a new carbouerator....suspension work jtna mrzi b ho can be done within 12k easily apart from shocks(maybe them too if they can be repaired)...wheel hubs u can easily get for 2 to 2.5k i dont know who gave them to u for 5k -_-..... and idr reborn k ac ki service 4k mein hojti hai aur idhr coure ka 4.5k manga jara hai....now just do like thie get a new carberator and plugs changed tuning done...if engine is weak then get a kabuli had assembly it will cost you a maximum of 15k and yea will come with a carberator too....abt tyres u can easily get them for arnd 5k kabuli all four in above 75 percent condition

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    *head

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    Do replace all the rubber pipes i actually mean every rubber pipe you see....and you will start loving the car ....the max amount of money you need to spend on the car is less than 50 k from suspension to engine work to body work aswell if recquired any

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    @ashbal Thanx for your suggestions. Actually after changing engine you have to get it registered on copy as well which further decreases car value.what is price of new carburator?car electrician has got EFI in his cuore & he claims to get 21-22 km/litre after conversion.by plastic pipes you mean radiator pipes,those things attached to plugs & what else?i will try to follow as you advised but still that is too much work & money required.
    Lately my car is having jerks problem in small gears & at slow speed but when speed is fast it runs good,no jerks.is it electrical issue or carburetor related?

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    Quote Originally Posted by wasf View Post
    @ashbal Thanx for your suggestions. Actually after changing engine you have to get it registered on copy as well which further decreases car value.what is price of new carburator?car electrician has got EFI in his cuore & he claims to get 21-22 km/litre after conversion.by plastic pipes you mean radiator pipes,those things attached to plugs & what else?i will try to follow as you advised but still that is too much work & money required.
    Lately my car is having jerks problem in small gears & at slow speed but when speed is fast it runs good,no jerks.is it electrical issue or carburetor related?

    Sent from my Z10 using PW Forums mobile app
    These models dont get effected by changed engines any more...paintwork doesnt even effect its value...btw yes i wanted to refer you to get a 660cc mira engine or any japanese you will get rid of every issue like jerks etc and automatic aswell with new ac aswell...it will cost you arnd 20k with fitting etc

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