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    i have already sold the original "F" engine and bought Toyota's 1FZ-FE.
    Now the biggest problem i'm facing is finding a transmission. After A LOT of research i have found that i need Toyota's H151 transmission. so far m having trouble locating it. so if any body has any suggestions pls let me know. thanks

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    Nice project brother.

    I am seriously thinking bout buying an FJ40 in almost similar condition(without engine & Gear) from lahore. It is a 1968 model and has generous rust on the body.

    The guy is asking 170,000 for it.

    If you dont mind can you tell me how much did you pay for this FJ

    TC
    -

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    Quote Originally Posted by usama37 View Post
    Fj40 - 33877

    army auctioned FJ40
    Model 1972
    Welcome to the Toyota FJ/BJ family . One word of advice for you. Be patient...get good advice so you dont make mistakes....and in the long run you will be alright and will enjoy your Toyota. Good luck mate.

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    Default Fj40

    Usama, Hi, I am currently in the middle of FJ40 Punga project. As rightly mentioned, you should have "Patience" , and in abundance to get involved in something like this, and should have the right people and macanics to guide you.

    It has been over three months now, I have stripped the whole machine and re-doing it . I will share a few pictures and would also apprecaite to share your project pictures as you proceed. What is the difference between the F2 engine and the 1FZ-FE you are going for.
    Fj40 -34977
    Arif
    Kakakhail

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    There are significant differences between the 2F/3Fs and the 1FZ-FE. However I am told by local mechanics that the H55F transmission (comes with 2F/3F or 2B/3B engine) can be mated to the 1FZ-FE by using locally manufactured housing / adapter plate. There were some reservations on this I read online but from what I can see there is little online from anyone who has actually done this i.e. put the 4500cc 1FZ-FE in a 40 series. Its quite an ambitious project I must say.....

    The issue that I foresee with the H151F or the auto A442F transmissions in a 40 series is that these are gigantic transmissions and the engine transmission combo presents a tremendous length when fitted together. This probably would cause issues as there probably will be little room and extreme angle for the rear shaft unless you are increasing the length of the wheelbase. In any case the gears should be ready available from Pehsawar/Quetta and you need some patient research and a sound mechanical team to make sure this is doable.

    One thing to check is what diff ratios are you running, your mechanic will be able to tell or simply count ring and pinion teeth, the ratio of which is your final drive ratio, should be either 3.7 (37:10 or locally called das saintees ) or 4.11 (37:9 or Naun saintees). This is important because if the ratios are any higher the vehicle will always feel like a heavy truck even with te 1FZ-FE with very low top speed and short gears. Best if you have 3.7 gears but 4.1 should also work.

    You may give some thought to replacing diffs as well possibly to newer Prado TZ ones as these would possibly bring in 4 wheel disc brakes and a very welcome Limited Slip Rear diff. The original 40series diffs are well suited for offroading or loading, but in my experience always feel heavy on the road possibly owing to big size and high weight. Prado diffs would probably be more light and agile and give you the sort of feel that you would want with the 1FZ-FE. Additional cost for two diffs should be around 80K with fitting less the FJ diff chanda that the kabaria may spare you

    Anyways, as pointed out patience and research are key here as it is very easy to put all this together but quite tricky to get the optimal result. All the best keep us posted and give a shout if you need any help.

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    Quote Originally Posted by hsumbal1 View Post
    Nice project brother.

    I am seriously thinking bout buying an FJ40 in almost similar condition(without engine & Gear) from lahore. It is a 1968 model and has generous rust on the body.

    The guy is asking 170,000 for it.

    If you dont mind can you tell me how much did you pay for this FJ

    TC
    i bot mine for 140000RS. With the F engine and the 3speed gear.

    FYI: the guys demand was 2 or 2.5 lac =)

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    Quote Originally Posted by SuhaibKiani View Post
    There are significant differences between the 2F/3Fs and the 1FZ-FE. However I am told by local mechanics that the H55F transmission (comes with 2F/3F or 2B/3B engine) can be mated to the 1FZ-FE by using locally manufactured housing / adapter plate. There were some reservations on this I read online but from what I can see there is little online from anyone who has actually done this i.e. put the 4500cc 1FZ-FE in a 40 series. Its quite an ambitious project I must say.....

    The issue that I foresee with the H151F or the auto A442F transmissions in a 40 series is that these are gigantic transmissions and the engine transmission combo presents a tremendous length when fitted together. This probably would cause issues as there probably will be little room and extreme angle for the rear shaft unless you are increasing the length of the wheelbase. In any case the gears should be ready available from Pehsawar/Quetta and you need some patient research and a sound mechanical team to make sure this is doable.

    One thing to check is what diff ratios are you running, your mechanic will be able to tell or simply count ring and pinion teeth, the ratio of which is your final drive ratio, should be either 3.7 (37:10 or locally called das saintees ) or 4.11 (37:9 or Naun saintees). This is important because if the ratios are any higher the vehicle will always feel like a heavy truck even with te 1FZ-FE with very low top speed and short gears. Best if you have 3.7 gears but 4.1 should also work.

    You may give some thought to replacing diffs as well possibly to newer Prado TZ ones as these would possibly bring in 4 wheel disc brakes and a very welcome Limited Slip Rear diff. The original 40series diffs are well suited for offroading or loading, but in my experience always feel heavy on the road possibly owing to big size and high weight. Prado diffs would probably be more light and agile and give you the sort of feel that you would want with the 1FZ-FE. Additional cost for two diffs should be around 80K with fitting less the FJ diff chanda that the kabaria may spare you

    Anyways, as pointed out patience and research are key here as it is very easy to put all this together but quite tricky to get the optimal result. All the best keep us posted and give a shout if you need any help.
    Thanks a alot for this. it was a huge help. i will definitely ask u more questions as i get farther along the project.

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    Quote Originally Posted by SuhaibKiani View Post
    There are significant differences between the 2F/3Fs and the 1FZ-FE. However I am told by local mechanics that the H55F transmission (comes with 2F/3F or 2B/3B engine) can be mated to the 1FZ-FE by using locally manufactured housing / adapter plate. There were some reservations on this I read online but from what I can see there is little online from anyone who has actually done this i.e. put the 4500cc 1FZ-FE in a 40 series. Its quite an ambitious project I must say.....

    The issue that I foresee with the H151F or the auto A442F transmissions in a 40 series is that these are gigantic transmissions and the engine transmission combo presents a tremendous length when fitted together. This probably would cause issues as there probably will be little room and extreme angle for the rear shaft unless you are increasing the length of the wheelbase. In any case the gears should be ready available from Pehsawar/Quetta and you need some patient research and a sound mechanical team to make sure this is doable.

    One thing to check is what diff ratios are you running, your mechanic will be able to tell or simply count ring and pinion teeth, the ratio of which is your final drive ratio, should be either 3.7 (37:10 or locally called das saintees ) or 4.11 (37:9 or Naun saintees). This is important because if the ratios are any higher the vehicle will always feel like a heavy truck even with te 1FZ-FE with very low top speed and short gears. Best if you have 3.7 gears but 4.1 should also work.

    You may give some thought to replacing diffs as well possibly to newer Prado TZ ones as these would possibly bring in 4 wheel disc brakes and a very welcome Limited Slip Rear diff. The original 40series diffs are well suited for offroading or loading, but in my experience always feel heavy on the road possibly owing to big size and high weight. Prado diffs would probably be more light and agile and give you the sort of feel that you would want with the 1FZ-FE. Additional cost for two diffs should be around 80K with fitting less the FJ diff chanda that the kabaria may spare you

    Anyways, as pointed out patience and research are key here as it is very easy to put all this together but quite tricky to get the optimal result. All the best keep us posted and give a shout if you need any help.

    @SuhaibKiani

    once again first i wanna thank you for all your help. i've fitted the engine and the gear together. now i'm thinking that instead of changing the differentials alone. maybe i shud just go the for the whole tubes like u suggested. wut i'm confused about is the difference between tubes. as the difference between the prado tz like u mentioned or the land cruiser cygnus? how will i no which one is best suited for me? wut the differences? and how can i spot them? i wud really appreciate your help before i buy the tubes. thanks!

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    Quote Originally Posted by usama37 View Post
    @SuhaibKiani

    now i'm thinking that instead of changing the differentials alone. maybe i shud just go the for the whole tubes like u suggested. wut i'm confused about is the difference between tubes. as the difference between the prado tz like u mentioned or the land cruiser cygnus? how will i no which one is best suited for me? wut the differences? and how can i spot them? i wud really appreciate your help before i buy the tubes. thanks!
    my neighbor is running FJ60/62 axles in his FJ40. It gives the 40 a wider stance. I am not sure of the gear ratios and also not sure if diesel and petrol version have different axle ratios.

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    Best of luck for this project
    -It is always Man behind the Machine.

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    Quote Originally Posted by usama37 View Post
    @SuhaibKiani

    once again first i wanna thank you for all your help. i've fitted the engine and the gear together. now i'm thinking that instead of changing the differentials alone. maybe i shud just go the for the whole tubes like u suggested. wut i'm confused about is the difference between tubes. as the difference between the prado tz like u mentioned or the land cruiser cygnus? how will i no which one is best suited for me? wut the differences? and how can i spot them? i wud really appreciate your help before i buy the tubes. thanks!
    You're most welcome!

    Which gearbox and transfer case did you end up getting??? Depending on the transfer case, I think your differential/tube decision should already have been made as rear diff positioning is different in Prado and TLC.

    In any case, I would suggest trying to make the current diffs work with this setup and possibly upgrading to Cyngus diffs at a later stage. There will be several issues in replacing the diffs not to mention cost and in theory the FJ40 diffs should work decently well.

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    Fj40 - 46711attach

    i was lucky enough to find the H151. it bolted rite up to the engine.
    Attached Images Attached Images  

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    Good going! Looking good. I would just go with FJ40 diffs/tubes for now and get all the other things sorted first. The original diffs either with 3.7 or 4.11 ratios should work well and there should not be a mismatch.

    Later on if you still have appetite for more boost and room in your pocket, you should upgrade to FJ60 or 80 axles which would sit in well with the transfer case. Note that the rear diff will fall to the right and not centre, hence all Prado diffs will not bolt in. Key motivation for the diff upgrade should be 4 wheels disc brakes, possibly limited slip (not sure if you would really need it, but you may if there is too much tire slip on acceleration) and lockers (primarily for hardcore offroading).

    So.....unless I am missing something, I would recommend just putting the whole thing together and getting it on the road for now to check the results and need for further upgrades.




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    Quote Originally Posted by aamir567 View Post
    Best of luck for this project
    Thank You

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    Quote Originally Posted by SuhaibKiani View Post
    Good going! Looking good. I would just go with FJ40 diffs/tubes for now and get all the other things sorted first. The original diffs either with 3.7 or 4.11 ratios should work well and there should not be a mismatch.

    Later on if you still have appetite for more boost and room in your pocket, you should upgrade to FJ60 or 80 axles which would sit in well with the transfer case. Note that the rear diff will fall to the right and not centre, hence all Prado diffs will not bolt in. Key motivation for the diff upgrade should be 4 wheels disc brakes, possibly limited slip (not sure if you would really need it, but you may if there is too much tire slip on acceleration) and lockers (primarily for hardcore offroading).

    So.....unless I am missing something, I would recommend just putting the whole thing together and getting it on the road for now to check the results and need for further upgrades.




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    *because of some wut limited room in my pocket(complicated). i dont wanna spend any money on parts i will be replacing later on.*

    i am all for the diff upgrade. i wud like the 80s. but here are my concerns:
    how will i no if they are diesel or petrols?(is there any difference?)
    how will i no they are of an 80 series?
    how will i no if they have lsd?
    and how wud i no that lockers can be installed later on? can they be installed in all the diffs? or is there something certain i shud luk for?

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    Quote Originally Posted by usama37 View Post
    *because of some wut limited room in my pocket(complicated). i dont wanna spend any money on parts i will be replacing later on.*

    i am all for the diff upgrade. i wud like the 80s. but here are my concerns:
    how will i no if they are diesel or petrols?(is there any difference?)
    how will i no they are of an 80 series?
    how will i no if they have lsd?
    and how wud i no that lockers can be installed later on? can they be installed in all the diffs? or is there something certain i shud luk for?
    I would have thought that you would have very little to spend on connecting the transmission to the current diffs, just shafts and crosses some of which you already should have on there. Anyways, changing diffs to 80 series would mean that you would have to modify the coil spring mounts to leafs and possibly some adjustments to the steering mechanisms and stabiliser bars etc. Don't recommend this, unless you have a mechanic who knows what he is doing here...you have enough work at hand with the project as it stands.

    Anyways, I will do some more research for you to check what would work best. In the mean time if you can please do the following:
    1. Remove rear diff cover and count the number of teeth on both the ring and pinion. This would clarify the ratios.
    2. Post some pics of your current rear and front diffs.
    3. Tell us how you are getting the mechanicals done? Does your mechanic have adequate 4x4 knowledge/background?

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    OK! Recommend that you should get complete RKR diffs possibly with 4 wheel disc brakes. You should tell your local kabaria to source these and give you a gurantee that diffs will be original Kabuli ones and not locally used stuff.

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    Quote Originally Posted by SuhaibKiani View Post
    I would have thought that you would have very little to spend on connecting the transmission to the current diffs, just shafts and crosses some of which you already should have on there. Anyways, changing diffs to 80 series would mean that you would have to modify the coil spring mounts to leafs and possibly some adjustments to the steering mechanisms and stabiliser bars etc. Don't recommend this, unless you have a mechanic who knows what he is doing here...you have enough work at hand with the project as it stands.

    Anyways, I will do some more research for you to check what would work best. In the mean time if you can please do the following:
    1. Remove rear diff cover and count the number of teeth on both the ring and pinion. This would clarify the ratios.
    2. Post some pics of your current rear and front diffs.
    3. Tell us how you are getting the mechanicals done? Does your mechanic have adequate 4x4 knowledge/background?

    thank you again for the work you are doing. i feel like you are doing more then i am.
    -i will find out the ratios and take pics asap.(after the weekend)
    -my mechanic? i am the mechanic. i'm doin the work myself(trying).
    explaination:
    i work in a transport company. fortunately we have our own workshop. so we trying to do most of the work here. since my mechanics mostly do bus and truck work. we get help from our neighbors(all mechanics of different types). so this is like a combined project of the General Bus Station of Faisalabad =)

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    Quote Originally Posted by usama37 View Post
    ....... so this is like a combined project of the General Bus Station of Faisalabad =)
    Very nice indeed! Good to have the community and all the brothers involved in the project!

    I understand that you have an early seventies/late sixties model FJ which was running a three speed transmission. If thats the case then the ratios are probably (37:10 or locally called das saintees ) and you have front brake drums and not discs. This would necessitate that you upgrade the diffs for the brakes more than the ratios.

    I think that Land Cruiser IIs / BJ70s which came with 1HD, 1HZ and 3B run the 4.11 ratio diff which I believe is also the stock 3F and 1FZ engine ratio. So you should ask your kabaria friends (sure you have plenty around) for Land Cruiser II complete diffs with 4.11 (37:9 or Naun Saintees) ratios and preferably 4 wheel disc brakes. 4 wheel discs were only available in the latest BJ70 versions and some of these may have lockers (at least rear) and possibly LSDs (not sure on this though).

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