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Thread: How to confirm Turbo Efficiencty.

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    Default How to confirm Turbo Efficiency.

    Friends,

    I have 13BT motor placed in my bj61, but i am not satisfied by its performance as far as its pickup and torque is concerned. it picks up thrust while after about half of the throttle is pressed.

    Can anybody let me know that how i may confirm that its turbo is working well or either its working or not .

    thanks


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    Quote Originally Posted by aali-01 View Post
    can i fit turbo in cuore ?
    +1

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    Quote Originally Posted by aali-01 View Post
    +1
    No offense but,
    You are in the wrong section of forums, and secondly its definitely not ok to "second" your post as it only shows desperation.

    Post your question under Performance/Modification forums.

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    Default My DIY boost guage setup....

    No laughing....its cheaper than chewing gum but it works ...running 10psi here.
    BTW the factory pressure for the CT20 turbo on 2LTs is 9 psi and it is questionable if its any good running the CT20 beyond 14 psi. The 13BT runs a slightly bigger CT26 while teh 1KZT runs a CT12ish turbo which is in between the two.

    How to confirm Turbo Efficiencty -116467
    "If YOU don't believe in what you're doing it'll never work."

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    Thank you everybody for your expert comments especially SK & Sherwan - Being a newbie to 4x4 - i never knew this much about turbo in detail.

    Great help - Much appreciated.

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    Quote Originally Posted by SuhaibKiani View Post
    No laughing....its cheaper than chewing gum but it works ...running 10psi here.
    BTW the factory pressure for the CT20 turbo on 2LTs is 9 psi and it is questionable if its any good running the CT20 beyond 14 psi. The 13BT runs a slightly bigger CT26 while teh 1KZT runs a CT12ish turbo which is in between the two.

    How to confirm Turbo Efficiencty. - 116467
    He SK,
    If it works, then there is nothing wrong in using it and you just saved me a lot of money, i was about to buy boost gauge from the US.
    You know the CT12 is smaller than the CT20 and the CT26.

    I myself am researching and thinking of building a twin turbo setup of two CT26's for my Nissan. Quite ambitious i know, its a dream. It may well be a dream for eternity as the prices i am getting are bonkers. I will do a single one though but a twin turbo one would be just too nice to have.

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    And if anyone has someone is the US, and wants a couple of gauges here is a link to cheap gauges.

    GlowShift Performance Gauges & Pods ? Automotive Boost Gauges, Pyrometer

    The most interesting section is this one. Heat sensor adapters. I'd like to add two heat gauges one for the water going out of the engine and one for the water going into the engine. Life saver for our summers.

    Water Temperature Sender Attachments

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    Quote Originally Posted by sherwan_88 View Post
    He SK,
    If it works, then there is nothing wrong in using it and you just saved me a lot of money, i was about to buy boost gauge from the US.
    You know the CT12 is smaller than the CT20 and the CT26.

    I myself am researching and thinking of building a twin turbo setup of two CT26's for my Nissan. Quite ambitious i know, its a dream. It may well be a dream for eternity as the prices i am getting are bonkers. I will do a single one though but a twin turbo one would be just too nice to have.
    Single turbo should be good enough for starters on the non-turbo Nissan monster and should give you enough headaches to get right. A twin turbo project would be fun to attempt on a turbo engine with a mechanical pump....
    "If YOU don't believe in what you're doing it'll never work."

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    Quote Originally Posted by SuhaibKiani View Post
    Single turbo should be good enough for starters on the non-turbo Nissan monster and should give you enough headaches to get right. A twin turbo project would be fun to attempt on a turbo engine with a mechanical pump....
    I've been spent a lot of time on the internet today (geek).
    I think i'd go for a single CT26 or a Two T25's. T25's will spool up way faster than the Ct26 but are more of a hassle but i am planning on doing this as calmly and slowly as i can.

    The other thing is a CT26 brand new Malaysian is about 50k and two T25's are 18k. A hell of a difference.

    Techinically two T25's would be flowing 40 lbs/min at 20 psi while the CT26 would be doing that at 10-12 psi. Need some more map research.

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    Quote Originally Posted by sherwan_88 View Post
    I've been spent a lot of time on the internet today (geek).
    I think i'd go for a single CT26 or a Two T25's. T25's will spool up way faster than the Ct26 but are more of a hassle but i am planning on doing this as calmly and slowly as i can.

    The other thing is a CT26 brand new Malaysian is about 50k and two T25's are 18k. A hell of a difference.

    Techinically two T25's would be flowing 40 lbs/min at 20 psi while the CT26 would be doing that at 10-12 psi. Need some more map research.
    I would have thought that you would be using a small+big turbo combo to cover the entire rpm range....small one kicks in at low end and big one takes over at high rpms. Don't know much about twin Ts but sure that Ali aka Charged can give us the download based on his BMW experience Anyways, a talking twins is just conceptual as practically speaking we don't know enough down here to get these right....

    A single CT26 (off a TLC 1HDT) at 10-12psi should be fine in your case and you can probably find a decent second hand one for under 15K (or maybe a bit more).... don't recommending burning your $s on a new one for such a panga project. As I understand putting on a turbo is cheap around here but taking it off and fixing things back (in case you muck it up) will be more expensive

    BTW the AXT turbo kits sell for around AUS$ 3000-4000 from what I hear
    "If YOU don't believe in what you're doing it'll never work."

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    Quote Originally Posted by SuhaibKiani View Post
    I would have thought that you would be using a small+big turbo combo to cover the entire rpm range....small one kicks in at low end and big one takes over at high rpms. Don't know much about twin Ts but sure that Ali aka Charged can give us the download based on his BMW experience Anyways, a talking twins is just conceptual as practically speaking we don't know enough down here to get these right....

    A single CT26 (off a TLC 1HDT) at 10-12psi should be fine in your case and you can probably find a decent second hand one for under 15K (or maybe a bit more).... don't recommending burning your $s on a new one for such a panga project. As I understand putting on a turbo is cheap around here but taking it off and fixing things back (in case you muck it up) will be more expensive

    BTW the AXT turbo kits sell for around AUS$ 3000-4000 from what I hear
    Well SK, the thing is i am not looking for 20-30% gain, i am planning for at least 150kw at the rear wheels. Ambitious and crazy i know but done properly then everything runs fine.

    A compound setup is very hard to build as to integrate two compressors is one hard job and the harder one is to find two which fit best. I am not that much versed on turbo's so i think i will stick to parallel turbo's (lay man's solution to power).

    I am actually leaning more and more towards the T25's they are basically free and pack a punch plus they don't have an internal waste gate which is a huge edge while the CT26 has an internal waste gate at 8psi. I might be able to get 15psi and the optimum flow with the right piping and a intercooler. From what i anticipate they will start to spool up 1200-1300 rpm range and cut off at 3500-3600, Realistically, one has no need to rev up the whole range of diesel as gearing range is pretty less than that. I will have to up the anti a bit on the pump though.

    Its all a theory at this moment until i do more research and more math. Technically the more boost the better the acceleration but how long you can hold that is upto flow.

    Two T25's, external manually adjustable waste gate, manual boost controller, oil cooler and a inter cooler is what i need.

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    Here is a site which has very good information on turbo's, plus comparisons of common turbo's.

    Turbo Upgrade for VG30DETT

    P.S I Also have a file which has all the Toyota Turbo''s to this date specs on it. I have no idea how to upload it or share.

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    install a boost gauge. and see how much boost the turbo is producing. if its now producing any...or less then stock. then check these things:
    -exaust manifold packings.
    -intake manifold packing.
    -boost pipes and clamps.
    -wastegate actuator.
    and lastly check the shaft play of the turbo...if its very small then it isnt a problem. but if alot..then you better get the turbo replaced.
    www.TheTweakShop.pk

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    Quote Originally Posted by sherwan_88 View Post
    I've been spent a lot of time on the internet today (geek).
    I think i'd go for a single CT26 or a Two T25's. T25's will spool up way faster than the Ct26 but are more of a hassle but i am planning on doing this as calmly and slowly as i can.

    The other thing is a CT26 brand new Malaysian is about 50k and two T25's are 18k. A hell of a difference.

    Techinically two T25's would be flowing 40 lbs/min at 20 psi while the CT26 would be doing that at 10-12 psi. Need some more map research.
    Boosting beyond 14 PSI on Diesels will create serious pre-ignition and knocking problems.

    Also when you increase the boost, you need more fuel flowing through the engine.
    AM General Jeep M825 MUTT | 3 C Turbo Diesel

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    Quote Originally Posted by aisheikh View Post
    Boosting beyond 14 PSI on Diesels will create serious pre-ignition and knocking problems.

    Also when you increase the boost, you need more fuel flowing through the engine.
    Pre-Ignition on a diesel. You lost me there.

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    Diesels do not have any pre ignition problems...

    You can run as much boost as you want as long as the internals are up for the job and theres enough fuel to enrich it.

    After 14-15 psi, you must install an intercooler. Anything more than 15 psi on a diesel is a waste if there is no intercooler installed, gain in boost pressure is cancelled by the heat produced at this or high pressure so its not efficient at all. Thats the reason most cars with oem turbos and without intercoolers will never have stock boost above 15psi.

    Seq. turbos is a complex setup and theres alot of fabrication involved. Anything can be done but to do a job properly you gotta spend $$$ and time and have to find the right workers and more importantly the materials.

    In most setups 20psi is a safe bet for every day use but it does vary between turbos. Who ever is planning to go twin must also research the fueling bit since boost is nothing without fuel. You will have to install higher capacity nozzles and most probably will have to do the governer mod in your mechanical IP along with installation of a bigger mm head.
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    Quote Originally Posted by sherwan_88 View Post
    Pre-Ignition on a diesel. You lost me there.
    Actually, pre-ignition does exist in diesel engines, it's just that it's more related to injection timing. A diesel engine can knock if the timing is too advanced. A little advanced timing is good for fuel consumption, but too much will cause your engine to lose power and potentially break parts. As a side note, a higher boost pressure for the same injection timing advances the combustion, so increasing boost can increase engine knocking.
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    Quote Originally Posted by sami_voodoo View Post
    Actually, pre-ignition does exist in diesel engines, it's just that it's more related to injection timing. A diesel engine can knock if the timing is too advanced. A little advanced timing is good for fuel consumption, but too much will cause your engine to lose power and potentially break parts. As a side note, a higher boost pressure for the same injection timing advances the combustion, so increasing boost can increase engine knocking.
    Hey,
    Thanks for the info. I never knew that but am always eager to learn.

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