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Thread: FJ40 help urgent!

  1. #1
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    Default FJ40 help urgent!

    Aoa,

    I am planning to buy a toyota LC fj40, army auction... need some advices regarding rebuilding.....
    need opinion for the genuine 2F(4200cc) petrol engine..... about fuel consumption...conversion to CNG.....
    also need opinion for swaping engine to diesel.. recommend any engine..
    also working of AC whether it is ok to install in a soft top jeep.. can it be used as a daily runner

    urgently help required from offroading professionals...
    regards haroon_1


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    i am facing the same questions.

    as i have researched 2f engine has carb problems setting etc..
    fuel mileage it gives is 5km/litre.


    few questions i would like to add are.

    HOW will fj40 perform with 2Lte, 5Le, 5vz engine and how will be mileage?
    If its a soft top but has a good ac will it perform well ?
    Making a Fibertop possible(like rkr's type).
    Fj40 is bumpy ride almost same as potohar how to make it soft keeping economy in mind?
    Can it be restored in around 5 lack budget?
    how much time will it take to restore?
    Registration cost ? dependent on engine too ?


    Usage will be almost daily driver
    economical around 8 to 9 km/liter with AC
    almost very frequent hunting trips and off roading too.

    fun to drive avg power will good offroad performance possible with some Economic engine giving decent mileage
    RIP

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    Fj40 is bumpy ride almost same as potohar how to make it soft keeping economy in mind?

    an fj will always remain bumpy
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    It All depends on u how much u want to spend.fiber original top with rear doors will cost u 55000.
    I had engIne rebuild cost 35

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    35000.
    Shocks with schakles and bushes pins from USA iron man cost me 550usd delivered in Uk snorkel p n p to uk £200 gauges plus lights(dash) were £300 including switches and many other bits from uk scrap yards lol.

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    Mine cost registration of Lahore disst with 40 number 85000 rs.
    Ac/heater I think about 35 to40k paint 40 to 50k seats 16k.mine rear bench type as well.
    List goes on.
    You can see my post bought fj40

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    Quote Originally Posted by qwertypoiu View Post
    i am facing the same questions.

    as i have researched 2f engine has carb problems setting etc..
    fuel mileage it gives is 5km/litre.
    spot on here. actually its the distributor that wont retain a setting. @tareen, bro is running a 3l carb with his 2f and its running fine. A friend has swapped an electronic point distributor in his fj40 and his engine tune up problems are gone. 2F solutions are available. personally, i don't think 2f gives value against the fuel economy it gives.

    Quote Originally Posted by qwertypoiu View Post
    few questions i would like to add are.

    HOW will fj40 perform with 2Lte, 5Le, 5vz engine and how will be mileage?
    If its a soft top but has a good ac will it perform well ?
    Making a Fibertop possible(like rkr's type).
    Fj40 is bumpy ride almost same as potohar how to make it soft keeping economy in mind?
    Can it be restored in around 5 lack budget?
    how much time will it take to restore?
    Registration cost ? dependent on engine too ?


    Choosing the right engine is only part of the equation when desiring a certain performance from any vehicle. gear, diffs, suspension all matter in obtaining a economical and comfortable ride.

    A good AC works very well for the 2 front seats with no proper sealing of the soft top. With a decent air tight soft top, the rear cabin is ok too.

    Fiber tops are possible. you can get them fab but price is the real question on them.

    with proper shackle angles and reduced leafs setup, the bumpy ride improves. if weight can be added in the rear tub, improves further still. Caution though, it will never lose its bumpy feel. I've yet to test a 40 series on coil spring suspension. keeping fingers crossed that it will take the bumpiness completely out.

    it can be restored in 5 lacs yes, but what is the initial purchase price? i wouldn't expect to bring a 40 series up to a decent daily driver status in less then 2.5 lacs on top of the initial purchase. and this wouldn't include any swaps that might have to be made. like engine, gear, body parts etc or some fancy face lifting.

    there are so many variables affecting project time, its hard to give a number.

    registration cost depends on the auction value and yes on the engine as well. Tax evaluation makes brackets based on engine capacity. The percent is then multiplied by auction value to get the final tax payable on registration of a vehicle. i'm sure u know that already

    well, these are my opinions only and a few are experiences as well.
    You can check my effort in restoring a 40 series here

    https://www.pakwheels.com/forums/4x4...40-restoration

    Although my 40 has transformed much since..


    regards,
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    Twitter @lostinwrlds Google +nomsclick

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    nOmS6 has pretty much laid out everything, in the most precise, succinct,and unambiguous manner...so allow me to add just one aspect.

    Depending on the condition of the FJ you purchase, it can actually be driven around perfectly, with hardly ANY initial outlay, at all, other than the regn charges, and the necessary TLC required to resurrect it from the military graveyard in which it was resting.

    I say this from personal experience, as the FJ I had bought was pretty fair to middling in stock condition, before I developed this sudden death-wish to transform it into something completely different!

    There are carb solutions for the 2F engine. It will NEVER be easy on the pocket as far as fuel averages go...but it CAN be used, straight off the bat, with a minimum of investment. And that, I think, is the beauty of the FJ; it can take a bazillion different money-leeching modifications...but it can also be used stock, and be subjected to a graduated, sequential series of modifications as time and money permit.

    What I'd advise, is for you to make up a wish list..."MUST HAVES"..."SHOULD HAVES"...and "MAY HAVES". If you're ruthless with this initial list...your subsequent plan of action should emerge, therein.

    Best of luck!
    Always buy cars which your children love. They'll be helpful allies against your wife, later on!

  9. #9
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    Default @poster

    There is no reason why you cant get a 2F carb running the way it should. The tragedy is, that the 'ustaads' here have a strong tendency to tear down the carb whenever the engine hesitates/missfires/runs rich/lean. There is no rocket science to tuning a carb especially when it is as simple as the ones you get on these F series motors. Before setting the carb/timing you should make sure that your cylinder compression numbers are within spec. Any bad valves/compression rings will easily show on a leak down or a simpler compression test.

    What worked well for me was, setting the RPM to around 400 with the idle screw which will be at the back of the carb. Shut the engine off, turn the idle mixture control screw in till it is 'seated' and then unwind 2 turns out. This screw will be located opposite the valve cover. Turn the Idle mixture screw in quarter turn increments/decrements and stop where you get the maximum engine speed. Now all you have to do is set the engine speed to manufacturer spec, which I recall is around 650 RPM. Another thing you need to take into account is the fuel bowl level, which should be about halfway up the visor window at the front of the carb. If it is on the higher side, your mixture screw give the best idle turned slightly in(1/2-3/4 turns) and if it is a bit lower than half you will accordingly need to turn the screw out a little. Make sure you have the propoer carb kit when you rebuild yours to ensure correct jet sizes.

    Moving on to the distributor, as noms56 has pointed out, there is no reason why a dizzy wont hold the timing if the rest of the timing gear is all okay. A dizzy which seemingly set right, still leaves the timing mark bouncing around is indicative of bad distributor shaft bushings, a bad timing gear, distributor gear or distributor cam. If these things are in good nick, there is no reason why your point will not hold the timing you set.

    Lastly and most importantly, from my experience whith these motors, they never seem to be in that right 'tune' primarliy because of vacum leaks. This is something that our 'ustads' never seem to bother with. The age on these motors leaves the vacum hoses/pipes brittle and cracked. This is how you get 'unmetered' air into your intake and the engine runs rough no matter how hard you try to tune it. Common trouble spots for this issue are the PCV valve hose/grommet which you will find on the back end of your valve cover going into your intake manifold just beneath the carb. Another all too frequent cuplrit is the pair of bushings on your primary throttle valve linkage. They wear out with use and leave space for unmetered air entering the system. Remember, any air entering your intake manifold from beneath the carb (unmetered) is a trouble maker, air should only enter at the mouth of the carb. With these leaks sorted out, there is absolutely no reason why these carbs cant work like they should. If i might add, the 2F/3F engine will let you balance a coin on its side on the oil filler cap if you take all these things into account when you tune it. These are very well balanced/smooth running engines. Sceptics can ask me for a video of this act any time.

    So to sum it up, you should:
    1- Start frist of all with inspecting your sylinder condition.
    2- Move to sorting out vacum leaks.
    3- Set the ignition timing after checking all the components as mentioned earlier.
    4- Finally you play with the carb, which i will say again, is very easy to tune.

    Another thing which i believe is good practise, is to take the vehicle for a 25-30km road test after the tuning. The bes indicator of your mixture settings is the spark plug. After driving it for the said distance, pull over and open your #1 plug. It should look like its covered with rust around the electrode and tip if the mixture is right. If its towards the darker side, wind in the mixture screw a quarter turn at a time till you get that rusty colour. If its too 'white' or scaly, open the mixture screw up a little till you get that beautiful rusty colour. Such tuning gives the best results in my opinion.
    Flat six flattening things out!

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    @HamzaF

    Good writeup bro... the vacumm leak part is usually missed out by our ustaads Simple checks using carb cleaner can easily pinpoint the leak.. Use a vacumm gauge to measure the max vacumm in manifold to help set timing and mistuxe

    Carb are perfectly doable.. you just need to understand them
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    @ HamzahF
    I 100% agree.

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    Some nice posts out here and good discussion. I seemed to have lost what is being discussed though, so I will just rant my 2 cents anyways

    Its possible that an army auctioned FJ comes with a 2F engine that is in a sort of plug and play state, but the large majority of the these engines require extensive restoration work one way or the other to make the experience worthwhile and enjoyable in the long run. And this will be true of a lot of other parts as well, not just the engine...

    Yes, the carbs can be made to work and work well, the suspension can be made to behave and body work can be elegant. However none of all that comes cheap these days and FJ40s have never been the cheapest cars to restore/buy to begin with. So FJ40s are an area where one should tread carefully as far as budgets go. Costs add up, specially in the long run....

    FJ40 engine selection is probably a long topic where everyone will have his own views and preferences, but this has to be looked at in light of the intended usage of the vehicle. The FJ40 drivetrain has peculiar demands owing to its bulkiness which limits modification choices to TLC models which is a big enough range to choose from. In general and taking everything into consideration, I prefer B series diesel engines over the F series petrol ones, though the Fs are really enjoyable when done up properly, much quiter too....
    "If YOU don't believe in what you're doing it'll never work."

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    Well, SK has prety much sumed it up.

    What I have heard from the people who are using 2F is that the performance is not consistant.

    A B series engine will be consistant and economical aswell.
    -

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    Default @All

    Quote Originally Posted by hsumbal1 View Post
    Well, SK has prety much sumed it up.

    What I have heard from the people who are using 2F is that the performance is not consistant.

    A B series engine will be consistant and economical aswell.
    This is precisely what i wanted to sort out with my rather lengthy reply earlier. There is absolutely NO reason why a 2F, which is as dumb as a brick, cant perform exactly the way you set it up. That is as good as it will be, or as bad for that matter. The gremlins that lead to a not so 'constant' performance were all discussed in my previous post. Having said that, a B is probably a better choice for water fording and satisfying the more money minded driver, and in my opinion thats all its better at. Not to say the 2F cant be prepared for fording. I guess I better stop posting now, this is getting all to emotional for me, I love the F series motors .

    Cheers
    Flat six flattening things out!

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    Quote Originally Posted by haroon_1 View Post
    Aoa,

    I am planning to buy a toyota LC fj40, army auction... need some advices regarding rebuilding.....
    need opinion for the genuine 2F(4200cc) petrol engine..... about fuel consumption...conversion to CNG.....
    also need opinion for swaping engine to diesel.. recommend any engine..
    also working of AC whether it is ok to install in a soft top jeep.. can it be used as a daily runner

    urgently help required from offroading professionals...
    regards haroon_1

    Dear, I am using My FJ40 with 2F engine erlier I installed CNG KIT but I found usless at all. I just replace Carburator new Orignal but Fuel taking too much 4/5 km in Ltr. I suggest replace engine without any futher expariment.

    Otherwise you will be @ the petrol pump most of the time.

    LIKE ME . I spend Rs. 1000 on fuel just to come office once. Find any good engine with Fuel Injection to geting good fuel maileage.

    Regards.

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    Quote Originally Posted by HamzahF View Post
    This is precisely what i wanted to sort out with my rather lengthy reply earlier. There is absolutely NO reason why a 2F, which is as dumb as a brick, cant perform exactly the way you set it up. That is as good as it will be, or as bad for that matter. The gremlins that lead to a not so 'constant' performance were all discussed in my previous post. Having said that, a B is probably a better choice for water fording and satisfying the more money minded driver, and in my opinion thats all its better at. Not to say the 2F cant be prepared for fording. I guess I better stop posting now, this is getting all to emotional for me, I love the F series motors .

    Cheers
    Sorry the idea was not to hurt your feelings.
    I am sure if you setup a 2F right it should out perform a B series any time.
    But the real issue is the "Setup".
    Even if you choose to go for an aftermarket brand new Carb like Webber and a beter coil you still do not get the fuel economy.
    Anyone looking for fuel econmy from an F series engine musy be dumb.

    I like diesel engines in general and Toyota B series in perticular. So naturaly I have a bias.
    -

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    Quote Originally Posted by hsumbal1 View Post
    Sorry the idea was not to hurt your feelings.
    I am sure if you setup a 2F right it should out perform a B series any time.
    But the real issue is the "Setup".
    Even if you choose to go for an aftermarket brand new Carb like Webber and a beter coil you still do not get the fuel economy.
    Anyone looking for fuel econmy from an F series engine musy be dumb.

    I like diesel engines in general and Toyota B series in perticular. So naturaly I have a bias.
    Dear, I spend lot of money I change Clutch plate/Carb. Asian/Coil/plugs/ You name it for geting economy. But not.

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    Put in a 2000 model 1FZ EFi 6 cylinder cruising engine.. and you get the similar millage

    4-5-6KM/L is the milage you get in these 4x4s Anything better than that.. look for a Car
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    Exclamation

    Would appreciate if the fonts are kept down.
    You can use colors to emphasize your point.
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    Sad thing I could not get that performance yet. I just import Carb. from Japan via Dubai.

    I have another JEEP CJ-7 with Nissan Engine I may change Petrol Engine.

    Maybe soon.

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