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Thread: Diesel Pajero cold starting issue

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    Default Diesel Pajero cold starting issue

    Hi all
    Recently, I purchased 1992 model Pajero diesel 2.5TD. Im facing the problem of cold start. In the morning, it refuses to start even after 10 heaters. After 12 o clock noon, it starts after 2nd or 3rd try. And after starting once, then without any heater, it is half self start. Also gives smoke at start.
    It is driven more than 300k kms. I want to know from experts whether it is due to glow plugs, timing, valve seals, or nozzles of pump.
    I know the problem will be resolved after this cold weather but want to dig out the reason. Also suggest any other solution if needed.
    Shall be grateful for this help.
    Regards


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    Bhai if u need my help do let me know

    Sent from my GT-I9500 using PW Forums mobile app

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    Quote Originally Posted by takko View Post
    according to zubaida aapa, if u fill the radiator with boiling water from cattle, the engine would start without any troubles,
    Hahaha...So take the cold water out first and then fill the radiator with boiling water from pateela. The next tip could be "apnay haath jalnay say bachanay keliye gloves bhee pehan lain".

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    Quote Originally Posted by mwanwar View Post
    Bhai if u need my help do let me know

    Sent from my GT-I9500 using PW Forums mobile app
    Sir, nice of u. I have ur mob #. Will call u soon. Actually, im not feeling well nowadays. Have got flu, fever etc. Once I get well, will take ur help. Thanx

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    Its like a deja vu for me ..... I was pullin gmy hair off my head last to last winter with my black sparky jero. Something you have to live with i guess.
    All the best in finding the correct solution.

    I agree it really amazes a little change in weather and this steel doesnt like to be awaken from deep sleep. My x-jero's black smoke stains are still on my garage wall
    Drop a gear, and disappear

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    Quote Originally Posted by unware View Post
    Its like a deja vu for me ..... I was pullin gmy hair off my head last to last winter with my black sparky jero. Something you have to live with i guess.
    All the best in finding the correct solution.

    I agree it really amazes a little change in weather and this steel doesnt like to be awaken from deep sleep. My x-jero's black smoke stains are still on my garage wall
    Sir nice to see u here. Yeah, it is a challenge for me now. Lets see what happens.
    Best wishes.

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    Have seen some videos on youtube. In many countries, 4D56 engine in pajeros start comfortably even in freezing temperatures. So, why not in Pak. For reference, links are attached.
    mitsubishi pajero 2.5 4d56 cold start - YouTube
    Mitsubishi Pajero 2.5 TD - YouTube

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    if your engine has solid compression, correct valve clearances, 100.1% correct timing, good battery, good proper coolant, light weight full synthetic oil and good glow plugs it will start at even -20c.

    my oldschool diesel mercedes could start at 0?C with just normal glow of 15 seconds. if i plugged in the factory block heater ovrrnight i would not even glow 5 seconds.btw i used 15W40 oil. genuine MB antifreeze. genuine MB battery and genuine MB glow plugs. i personally verified the pump timing and nozzle break pressure.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    if your engine has solid compression, correct valve clearances, 100.1% correct timing, good battery, good proper coolant, light weight full synthetic oil and good glow plugs it will start at even -20c.

    my oldschool diesel mercedes could start at 0?C with just normal glow of 15 seconds. if i plugged in the factory block heater ovrrnight i would not even glow 5 seconds.btw i used 15W40 oil. genuine MB antifreeze. genuine MB battery and genuine MB glow plugs. i personally verified the pump timing and nozzle break pressure.
    Sir, previous owner told me that he is using 20W-50 Delo Siver. Moreover, one battery is new and the other is old one. And no coolant is there in Radiator, only plain water.
    I think NO issue of valve clearance because engine does not vibrate much after startup.

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    firstly - dont use 20W50 in winter in that engine, the oil literally acts like glue mixed with tar. Using plain water in freezing weather has a risk factor of above 75% of cracking your engine (water expands when freezing and has huge hydraulic force)

    secondly never use one new battery and one old one in a system with 2 batteries in parallel. always ensure your batteries are prepped with 100% guaranteed vapor distilled water and lab grade H2SO4 at 1.270 SG.

    check the valve clearances - do not rely on assumption and a vague test of vibration on startup.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    firstly - dont use 20W50 in winter in that engine, the oil literally acts like glue mixed with tar. Using plain water in freezing weather has a risk factor of above 75% of cracking your engine (water expands when freezing and has huge hydraulic force)

    secondly never use one new battery and one old one in a system with 2 batteries in parallel. always ensure your batteries are prepped with 100% guaranteed vapor distilled water and lab grade H2SO4 at 1.270 SG.

    check the valve clearances - do not rely on assumption and a vague test of vibration on startup.
    sir how to check valve clearance and how to verify pump timing plus what oil you recommend for vehicles with more than 100K odo

    as even people at honda they say use thicker oil when engine crosses 70k km in running

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    firstly - dont use 20W50 in winter in that engine, the oil literally acts like glue mixed with tar. Using plain water in freezing weather has a risk factor of above 75% of cracking your engine (water expands when freezing and has huge hydraulic force)

    secondly never use one new battery and one old one in a system with 2 batteries in parallel. always ensure your batteries are prepped with 100% guaranteed vapor distilled water and lab grade H2SO4 at 1.270 SG.

    check the valve clearances - do not rely on assumption and a vague test of vibration on startup.
    Sir, This is all what is done by previous owner. I know that oil viscosity should be less during winter for easy startup, but what do you say about blowby that may be increased using lesser viscosity oils? Further please recommend an oil for my pajero 312000 km driven but engine never overhauled.
    I know that one new battery and the other old and even with different Ah rating is very dangerous, but this vehicle has been with me for last 5 days only...will take action in near future Insha Allah.
    Regarding coolant: will put in soon
    And valve clearance...NO white smoke and NO vibration at all during cold startup, but will definitly check on weekend.
    Thanx alot for suggestions.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mwanwar View Post
    sir how to check valve clearance and how to verify pump timing plus what oil you recommend for vehicles with more than 100K odo

    as even people at honda they say use thicker oil when engine crosses 70k km in running
    Valve clearance is checked with the help of feeler guage. If u want I can tell u the name and number of Mechanic + Workshop in Gawalmandi Rawalpindi. Last year I had done this on my 2.0D Corolla. For oil recommendation, we shall wait for @Xulfiqar bhai.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mwanwar View Post
    sir how to check valve clearance and how to verify pump timing plus what oil you recommend for vehicles with more than 100K odo

    as even people at honda they say use thicker oil when engine crosses 70k km in running
    Quote Originally Posted by AmeerUsman View Post
    Valve clearance is checked with the help of feeler guage. If u want I can tell u the name and number of Mechanic + Workshop in Gawalmandi Rawalpindi. Last year I had done this on my 2.0D Corolla. For oil recommendation, we shall wait for @Xulfiqar bhai.
    5w40 synthetic oil is light when cold but is the same "thickness" when hot as a 15W40 mineral oil, so what it really does is help you start the engine easier. It wont affect anything when hot as people assume that "patla tael se engine blow maaray ga"

    For correct operation and diagnosis one should first have a "control level" in this case its factory specification of valve clearances, pump timing, nozzle break pressure (irregular break pressure causes irregular timing of the cylinders), clean cooling system and solid monster batteries.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    5w40 synthetic oil is light when cold but is the same "thickness" when hot as a 15W40 mineral oil, so what it really does is help you start the engine easier. It wont affect anything when hot as people assume that "patla tael se engine blow maaray ga"

    For correct operation and diagnosis one should first have a "control level" in this case its factory specification of valve clearances, pump timing, nozzle break pressure (irregular break pressure causes irregular timing of the cylinders), clean cooling system and solid monster batteries.
    Bhai buhat thank u I have also got tge service manual but issue is still same that in isb pindi where should someone go to achieve factory specification

    And indeed I agree clean cooling system also improves performance I did as u suggested with kerosene oil and chuks of diesel came out from intercooler and believe me when i took out the oil it was all jet black

    Sent from my GT-I9500 using PW Forums mobile app

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    maybe someone here in PW living in isb/pindi can help you out with this. It takes 100% personal effort to get the mechanics to bring the engine to factory specification.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    5w40 synthetic oil is light when cold but is the same "thickness" when hot as a 15W40 mineral oil, so what it really does is help you start the engine easier. It wont affect anything when hot as people assume that "patla tael se engine blow maaray ga"

    For correct operation and diagnosis one should first have a "control level" in this case its factory specification of valve clearances, pump timing, nozzle break pressure (irregular break pressure causes irregular timing of the cylinders), clean cooling system and solid monster batteries.
    Thanx a lot boss. BTW I have repair manual of 4D56, will read it and if anything not clear will discuss with u.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    maybe someone here in PW living in isb/pindi can help you out with this. It takes 100% personal effort to get the mechanics to bring the engine to factory specification.
    Impossible. NO mechanic will be willing to go by Book. Only JUGAAR methods.

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    Bro as per my humble knowledge, if your glow plugs are working perfectly and your engine does not start when cold, the only problem is engine compression. No amount of pump, injectors, oil, coolant servicing etc will rectify this problem because your engine is weak. At 3lac km, a mitsubishi diesel has almost certainly lost compression which is why its giving this problem.
    Unless you get it rebuilt, you will be wasting time and money on everything else that you do.
    So please also consider this dimension of your problem.

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    Quote Originally Posted by AmeerUsman View Post
    Impossible. NO mechanic will be willing to go by Book. Only JUGAAR methods.
    As I said - it takes personal effort.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Khurram26 View Post
    Bro as per my humble knowledge, if your glow plugs are working perfectly and your engine does not start when cold, the only problem is engine compression. No amount of pump, injectors, oil, coolant servicing etc will rectify this problem because your engine is weak. At 3lac km, a mitsubishi diesel has almost certainly lost compression which is why its giving this problem.
    Unless you get it rebuilt, you will be wasting time and money on everything else that you do.
    So please also consider this dimension of your problem.

    Sent from my SM-N900 using PW Forums mobile app
    I dont believe japanese are that lame in engine building that their diesels are dead at 300,000 kms unless the engines were run with ghaaslait + dalda as engine oil. Usually bad valve job or polished out bores lead to this - (why our mechanics love to idle a new engine is beyond any comprehension - it literally wastes the piston rings)
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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