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Thread: Fj 40 brakes

  1. #1
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    Default Fj 40 brakes

    Hey guys. Since ages i am trying to fix brakes of my fj.
    Tried changing adjuster, cylinder.
    Cleaned leather pads. Swapped leather pads.
    Checked pipes
    Infact i have done everything and spent a lot. Still the suv deviates to left side when brakes are applied.
    This is getting very dangerous. Sometimes it spins from behind.
    Any ideas?

    Sent from my C6603 using Tapatalk 2

    Drugs cause amnesia, and other things I can't remember

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    All 4x4 FREAKS busy getting their rides ready for rally? koi tau bta dai what's wrong

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    You have disks on all corners?

    And what is it that you're calling an 'adjuster'



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    Get the front drums to disk converted, and get all the brakes lines don new from scratch.....
    -

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    Quote Originally Posted by syncview View Post
    You have disks on all corners?

    And what is it that you're calling an 'adjuster'



    Sent from my SGH-I747M using PW Forums mobile app
    Local mechanic was calling it adjuster.. Ita circular and has teeth there are two installed on each from tyre..


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    Drugs cause amnesia, and other things I can't remember

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    Quote Originally Posted by hsumbal1 View Post
    Get the front drums to disk converted, and get all the brakes lines don new from scratch.....
    How much will it cost me as i don't want to spend any more big amount on this suv.. Already spent almost a million

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ravager View Post
    How much will it cost me as i don't want to spend any more big amount on this suv.. Already spent almost a million

    Sent from my C6603 using Tapatalk 2

    If you haven't got the the Drum to Disc conversion(only on the front wheels) done it will cost you around 30K to 40K and can't say how much for the new brake lines...but keep fifty thousand in reserve.....You may have spent a million, but you need to spend on brakes so that you don't have to spend in the hospital...
    -

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ravager View Post
    Hey guys. Since ages i am trying to fix brakes of my fj.
    Tried changing adjuster, cylinder.
    Cleaned leather pads. Swapped leather pads.
    Checked pipes
    Infact i have done everything and spent a lot. Still the suv deviates to left side when brakes are applied.
    This is getting very dangerous. Sometimes it spins from behind.
    Any ideas?

    Sent from my C6603 using Tapatalk 2
    The service manual can help you.. there is a complete procedure on drum brake adjustment that needs to be following.. get your hands dirty.. it will work

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    Quote Originally Posted by akifjanjua View Post
    The service manual can help you.. there is a complete procedure on drum brake adjustment that needs to be following.. get your hands dirty.. it will work

    Sent from my GT-I9500 using PW Forums mobile app
    Yeah and another problem we have with such old cars is the leaf springs, if they are bad, uneven / bad bushings..your braking, acceleration and drive on bumpy roads will be outright scary

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    Quote Originally Posted by hsumbal1 View Post
    If you haven't got the the Drum to Disc conversion(only on the front wheels) done it will cost you around 30K to 40K and can't say how much for the new brake lines...but keep fifty thousand in reserve.....You may have spent a million, but you need to spend on brakes so that you don't have to spend in the hospital...
    Medical is free army lol

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ravager View Post
    Medical is free army lol

    Sent from my C6603 using Tapatalk 2

    hmmmmmmmmm

    It can turn out to be worst than that, I suggest that its better to get the brakes in order.
    -

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    Quote Originally Posted by hsumbal1 View Post
    hmmmmmmmmm

    It can turn out to be worst than that, I suggest that its better to get the brakes in order.
    Yes im thinking about it.. Finding alternatives to heavy investment.. But if all fails will convert to discs..

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    Default @poster

    Follow these steps in order:

    1-Once you're certain that the lines are all right and especially that the metal pipes near the back plates have no sharp bends to create restrictions in brake fluid pressure, get hold of a brake fluid pressure testing gauge and test per the manual specs on each corner. This will give you a good idea of the master cylinder/servo assists health as well.

    2-Make sure your leafs have the same spring rate and the shackles and U bolts are all in order.

    3-With the first two things done, adjust all wheels starting at the farthest from the master cylinder and working your way to the closest. This is how its said in the manual for my FJ70. When adjusted, each wheel should have a slight drag on it and should be able to make two full revolutions when rotated with a good bit of force.

    4-If the problem still persists, take a look at your wheel cylinders and ensure that all are in a comparable(workable) state.

    5-Check your retaining springs(long/hard springs that hold the brake shoe in place). If any spring is softer, it will be easier for that cylinder to push up the brake shoe when you press the brake creating a greater braking force on that wheel and pulling the vehicle to that side.

    6-Font/Rear drum brakes work on different master cylinders as compared to rear only drum brakes with disks up front. The local parts guys here almost always have brake cylinders here that are for Disk/Drum vehicles and they sell them 'jhoonga' style to all types of brake setups. Their only criteria is matching bolt patterns i guess.

    Anyway, if you had the master cylinder changed and your rear locks up, i am 100% sure that its because of a Disk/Drum master cylinder that you replaced your original with. The reason is that a Drum/Drum master cylinder has pressure retaining valves where the brake pipes go on the cylinder, that maintain a certain fluid pressure in the system. When you replace this with a disk/drum master cylinder, those valves are only in place where the pipe for the rear brakes goes on. As a result, the rear brakes have good baseline pressure to work off of when you push the brakes where as the front has none. Consequently when you push on the pedal, the rear tends to lock up and the front brakes come into action later on when the pedal stroke has generated sufficient pressure.

    Try interchanging the front and rear lines on the master cylinder. If it fixes the rear lock-up issue, you can be certain that the problem is due to the reason described above.

    A properly tuned drum brake system with all the right components works just as well at stopping the car under most conditions as a disk set up. Give it a try and revert with your findings, lets see.
    Flat six flattening things out!

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    Keeping in view of the above, if you replace the front drums with disks and retain the same (drum/drum) master cylinder, should the brakes work well? Since the pressure retaining vales will give equal amount of liquid to front disks and rear brakes. Or changing the master cylinder is a must?
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    Quote Originally Posted by AdilFJ40 View Post
    Keeping in view of the above, if you replace the front drums with disks and retain the same (drum/drum) master cylinder, should the brakes work well? Since the pressure retaining vales will give equal amount of liquid to front disks and rear brakes. Or changing the master cylinder is a must?
    Hey Adil! Long time!

    Working on this logic, since I have no experience with the possibility you have stated, I reckon you would get a firmer pedal and the possibility of brakes dragging, eventually. I do know that disc MCs have a bigger bore than drum MCs. So a drum MC would probably generate less fluid/pressure (spongy pedal) with the first stroke or two after which the retaining valves would keep fluid in the lines to a level/pressure consistent with their rating and your pedal would feel firmer.

    Do let me know if this is how it worked out on your FJ.
    Flat six flattening things out!

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    Hi Hamzah! Yup, Long Time!

    Spot on Mate. Yes, the brake pedal was firm. Adjusted it from inside to its max but still not much difference. Then we placed the thin gasket sort of a thing between the cylinder and the servo. Some how that worked and now there is a reasonable play in the pedal. But there were other issues with the brakes. The vehicle was pulling aside. Opened the front brake calipers and found that pistons were badly jammed in the cylinders. Apart from the non-usage for almost one year, somehow there was paint residuals in the caliper's arteries. Serviced the brakes and fixed new and original kits. Then the brake pedal started pulsing while applying brakes. But that was due to air in the system which vanished after few rounds of bleeding on each wheel. The brakes are working pretty good. But, according to the book, I should change the master cylinder as well. I might consider that in my next trip.
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  17. #17
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    How durable are the original drums for 1984 Fj 40 version for mountainous regions , once its having its original 2f in it ,does jeeps at hill stations have some modification to negotiate steep ascend descends, once effective brake is the life line, thanks

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